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Old 11-03-08, 06:31 PM
  #11  
sstorkel
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Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Pro, Schwinn Typhoon, Nashbar touring, custom steel MTB

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Originally Posted by Village Idiot
It was a Honda RC51. A real torture rack unless you're moving through the twisties.
Best bike I ever rode was an RC51. A buddy of mine had one with Ohlins Road & Track forks, Ohlins shock, Sato titanium exhausts, Marchesini wheels, and a bunch of other upgrades. A really incredible ride... but downright comfy compared to the Ducati 748 that another friend owned. Don't think I made it through an entire 20-minute racetrack session on the Duc!

With the average road bike, is the geometry to aggressive that all your weight is on your wrist? I'm really going to have to take one for a spin I guess. And at 230lbs, will I have any problems with durability?
If you buy a race-oriented bicycle, expect the geometry to be just as aggressive as your RC51. The bikes will tend to have the handlebars lower than the saddle as well as a long reach from the saddle to the bars. The effect is to make you stretch out and stay low for maximum aerodynamics, pedaling efficiency, etc. It will also put more strain on your wrists, neck, and lower back. A bike with a "relaxed" geometry, like the ones I mentioned previously, will allow you to sit more upright. These bikes also tend to have somewhat more stable handling though that isn't, strictly speaking, required.

At 230lbs, I wouldn't be too concerned about durability if you buy a decent-quality name-brand bike. If you're buying from a bike shop rather than a department store, toy store, or discount store you shouldn't have a problem. You're only 15-20lbs heavier than I was at my peak, and I never had any problems. The only thing you might do is request that your bike shop double-check the tension on the wheel spokes before you take delivery of the bike.
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