I guess I just want to keep up with my friends.
Not an unreasonable goal.
Its pretty flat to rolling hills in Texas and I thought an upgrade to a sealed bearing wheel would get less resistance.
Unless you're currently rolling on some 1970s open cone bearings that haven't been greased since the Trans-Am was cool, switching hubs isn't going to give you a lot of gain. Lighter wheels help with 2 things mainly: Lighter weight for easier climbing, and faster acceleration from lower rotating mass. Since the climbing isn't an issue, consider the necessity of a "faster off the line" wheel vs. a "stronger for the long haul" wheel.
The Mavics and Bontrager were first mentioned.
I won't knock either one of them. Especially the Aksium and Ksyrium Equipe wheels. A few of the C&A riders have commented on these in the past, stating how nice and smooth a ride these wheels are.
Losing 20# of body weight may help
May? I notice a difference when my weight fluctuates by half that much.
also but LBS personel seem to say these type wheels would help.
I bet if you asked them, you could get some $90 carbon fiber derailleur pulley wheels and a $100 Connex 10S1 chain that would really make you fast.
Parts have some bearing on how fast you can go, but it sounds like you're already riding a pretty nice bike. In that case, a couple of lightweight doodads here and there aren't going to give you a performance advantage unless it's your cash-laden, extremely heavy wallet that's weighing you down.
If like many of us here, you could stand to drop a few pounds, the less expensive solution to making your bike faster is to lose weight from the engine.
Lighter bike = beaucoup bucks
Ligher engine = spend less $$ on food
(Point of reference: Last summer I rode the Seattle to Portland double century on my new 2008 Cross Check Complete. Around mile 140, after a short conversation about his bicycle, I got dusted by a very nice guy on a nicked up, mid-80s Raleigh singlespeed conversion.)