Originally Posted by
mtnbke
I started out on mountain bikes, with indexed thumbshifters (friction front) and I can't stand brifters. On our tandem I actually removed the high zoot left Shimano brifter and use a barcon for front derailleur trim, and a 'real' brake lever on the left. Oh my goodness do 'real' brake levers work better than brifters for actual braking.
As for rear indexing or rear friction I really don't have a particular preference, but I hate friction mode on a mountain bike. To much going on and too technical of riding to constantly be fine tuning the thumbshifter.
On the road bikes (tandem, touring/BOBish, and road) I use downtube shifters but I mount 'em up on Kelly Take-Offs. On a Cannondale frames that measure 73cm and 66cm to the top of the seat collars you do not want to have to reach down to that massive downtube.
I think integrated controls are kind of stupid. Not only are they heavier, but more finicky, and they provide poorer brake control.
I'm suprised more people don't use Take-Offs. I think taking one hand off the bars to shift isn't particulary safe (with downtube shifters mounted on downtube), but with the Take-Offs your hands don't leave the handlebar.
Rivendell Bicycles also sells bar end pods allowing you to mount the downtube shifter as a bar con. I don't know why you wouldn't just use a regular bar end, maybe to mount colnago panto'd shifters perhaps?
Shifting downtube safely involves building the wrist and forearm strength to control the bike with one hand on the hood or drop, or moving the free hand to the grip area right next to the stem to reduce hand control leverage, since your body is unbalanced on the handlebars. Due to the unbalance, hitting a small bump while one hand is off the bars can result in rotating the bars, making the bike do an S swerve. In a peleton or dual paceline it can be a nasty moment. It also takes special care when eating, drinking, or finding that handkerchief. We won't even talk about cellphones or setting Ipods ...