It is good that you are cautious about trusting fiberglass to support weight.
I weigh 240 or 250 , depending on which scale I use.
When I started this project, I had a tradional seatpost and seat, and I had the fiberglass support on the front so I could test it.
Of course , I had experience with fiberglass from a previous bicycle, the Type 9.
Let me get a photo of the Type 9, for comparison...
Here is the Type 9:
The Type Nine is hollow. It was cast over a plaster-of-paris form and polyester resin was used. The fiberglass is a quarter inch thick. I put eight thousand miles on the Type 9, and I carried things like ninety-four-pound bags of cement home from the masonry supply yard. Other times it carried limestone.
The seat on the Type 9 is cantilevered way the heck out, there is no seatpost under the fiberglass either.
The Type 10 might fail under load at some point, it is posible. I would rather test it untill it fails on me than to have it fail on someone else and get sued. I am more worried the front spar will fail than the seat-whatchamacallit, that replaced the seatpost. The seat is sitting on a block, under compression. It's not going to snap off.
When I built the Type 9, after the last of the fiberglass hardened, I tested it. I hit every part of the fiberglass with a ten-pound sledge hammer, and there was no cracking. Mellisa designed the fairing right, heh heh, if you hit the fairing square in the center with a sledge hammer, the hammer will bounce and hit you square in the forehead.
The man who bought the Type 9 was a auto-collision shop owner, and he asked if he could do the same test. He brought a claw hammer with him and I let him bang on it as he pleased. He was satisfied after hitting it four or five times, and then he gave me twelve hundred dollars.
I also want to point out that only woven fiberglass was used in the creation of these bikes, and not that cheap mat.
The Type 10 has held up so far. The battery is held down with a bungee cord and a rubber shock cord.
I thought about using tie-wire, but I'm afraid if the battery shifts , the tie-wire will short out the battery terminals.
Well, the supply of 1982 Suzuki GS fairings is exausted. I called two dozen motorcycle shops around the country and nobody has any. I may go back to making my own fairings.
If I can get my hands on a welder, I will weld steel for all the fairing supports. The local welding shop just got a tig welder two years ago, and the weldor hasn't set it up yet, and now his lease is up on his building by the RR station. I would rather have fiberglass supports than stick-welded supports.
I still haven't seen any photos of the inside of any of the faired G-bikes at gravitybike dot com. No one seems to be as forthcoming as I am. At least I'm showing my fairing supports. I know one way to mount a fairing is to weld quarter-twenty nuts to the headtube, and then just screw the fairing on with lengths of quarter-twenty threaded rod. I've seen that done.
Maybe I should keep to making fiberglass fairings and not making the supports out of fiberglass.
In the past, I had bad experiences with Aluminum, so I switched to fiberglass.
I'm getting old, s___ , I'm 42 now. Twenty years ago I loved the speed that a faired bike could go down hill. I'm older now, and there must be a million more cars in this county, so I'm more cautious.
Back between 1985 and 1990, I tested the fairings that I designed. I did as scientific a test as I could, I did not pedal at all.
The bikes (Type 4 and Type 5) went so fast, my feet would've never kept up with the pedals anyway.
Fairings can make a bike go faster, as long the road is straight.
Maybe I should BUY a stock G-Bike and then build a fairing around it?