1976 Raleigh Tourist...brakes: what to do?
03-31-10, 07:09 AM
#26
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What can be done--if you REALLY want to!
My advise is to get a new Sturmey Archer front drum brake--(With Dino?)They really work good---Drum brakes were used with the rod type levers---you might have to "find" the cable that worked with them.
My advise is to get a new Sturmey Archer front drum brake--(With Dino?)They really work good---Drum brakes were used with the rod type levers---you might have to "find" the cable that worked with them.
04-04-10, 01:54 AM
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I'd go with drum brakes.... you could go with a disc brake-compatible front fork and a disc brake adapter in the rear but it looks out of place on a roadster. Drum brakes look so much more.... "period" if you get the drift. I wouldn't change anything else except perhaps the IGH, for more speed choices out on the road.
04-04-10, 07:19 AM
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Sturmey makes a 90mm steel bodied drum brake with a small spoke flange on the non-brake side which would have a period-correct look, in addition to aluminum-bodied 70 and 90mm versions.
04-04-10, 12:58 PM
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You could modify the rod system so that the brakes extend into the spokes upon actuation.*
*this will work only once, but will definitely work.
*this will work only once, but will definitely work.
04-10-10, 04:52 PM
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I had a 1974 Raleigh Tourist and I ended up buying and installing an old sturmey archey 3 speed with coaster on the original rear rim. easy enough of a fix. I left the rod brakes on for looks
04-12-10, 10:26 PM
#31
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Has anyone figured out how to use Kool-Stop pads with rod/stirrup brakes? I was thinking of replacing the rubber in my Fibrax holders with Kool-Stop salmon. Any experiences?
09-11-10, 05:44 PM
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So close and yet so far. Rigida has an aluminum westwood rim on their website but no North American distributors.
You could do what 65er has apparently done to his Humber. Make the lever with the long bellcrank operate the front brake. The rear would then have more leverage. You typically use the rear in the rain. The brake rod will constrain the steering a bit more because it will be further away from the stem.
You could do what 65er has apparently done to his Humber. Make the lever with the long bellcrank operate the front brake. The rear would then have more leverage. You typically use the rear in the rain. The brake rod will constrain the steering a bit more because it will be further away from the stem.
09-24-10, 07:07 PM
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Definitely ask in the vintage forum. If anyone knows how to make the most of rod brakes, they will.
If you want to keep the stock rims/tire size you could re-lace the rear wheel to a coaster (backpedal) brake hub. That way you could keep both rod brakes and add a 3rd brake that won't fade in the rain.
Depending on how wide of a rear hub the bike will take you could use an internal-gear hub with a drum brake. You could also replace the front hub with a drum brake as well (depending on spacing), but drum brakes would require different brake levers and disconnecting the rod brakes.
If you want to keep the stock rims/tire size you could re-lace the rear wheel to a coaster (backpedal) brake hub. That way you could keep both rod brakes and add a 3rd brake that won't fade in the rain.
Depending on how wide of a rear hub the bike will take you could use an internal-gear hub with a drum brake. You could also replace the front hub with a drum brake as well (depending on spacing), but drum brakes would require different brake levers and disconnecting the rod brakes.
09-28-10, 05:20 PM
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One of the most knowledgeable mechanics, C&V guy and general Raleigh honch has posted to this thread several times. He goes by Sixty Fiver.
