Mountain Biking - Looking to buy a new fork, what do i need to know?

Greetings from Puerto Rico!

I just recently purchased a rear shock(rock shox ario w/ lockout) for my mountain bike 2005 y26. I am now looking for a nice fork in the same price range. I would really like a lockout also. WHats a good fork in that range of money. $250? what measurements do i need to know? do i also buy a headset? I am not gonna get rid of the bike, most replies tell me to do this, i am pretty fond of this bike. help me out guys thanks.

Well to start you need to know what kind of riding your doing here. A fork for free ride your looking at well over 120mm. Where as my fork example which is for XC has just 80mm. You do not need a new headset. Look into the mz comp for that price. Theres a decent array of stuff for 250. Lockout Im not sure, my SID has it but the retail is well beyond 250.

i am strictly xc, thats why i need lockout, for the climbs. is rock shox pilot sl any good?

If lockout is not 100% needed you might want to check out the RS duke XC. It has adj travel so you can lower it when on climbs.
You can get one for just over 216$+shipping
http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?Affiliate=1&PageID=30&SKU=FK4130
You also might want to check out ebay. Ive seen some

If lockout is not 100% needed you might want to check out the RS duke XC. It has adj travel so you can lower it when on climbs.
You can get one for just over 216$+shipping
http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?Affiliate=1&PageID=30&SKU=FK4130
You also might want to check out ebay. Ive seen some

Wow...unbelievable price. I hate the shafting I receive in terms of prices. That fork would cost me at least $500 CAD when the exchange rate puts it at less than $300 Canadian. Gawd.

Yea I was gonna say duke as well. I would snag that deal If i were you. If my fork was out of order i would buy it. Duke is a nice fork

right now i have a 100 MM Manitou Six Sport

Is it okay to get a 130 MM Fox Vanilla?

right now i have a 100 MM Manitou Six Sport

Is it okay to get a 130 MM Fox Vanilla?
IS your frame built around a certain geometry? If its ment for 100mm getting 130 might throw it off. BUt the fox is a nice fork

phantomcow

I got an '03 Giant Iguana Disc, i dunno if its built around it or not could you tell me?

*CLICK ME* GIANT IGUANA DISC (http://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/030.000.000/030.000.000.asp?year=2003&model=10634)

eeh i couldnt tell you. Email giant tech support or if they have a phone # call them up. THey will know better than I

i never use my lockout. too annoying to use. 105mm or 120mm Marzocchi MX Comp with ETA loackout is a good pick. i have the 105mm version.

Greetings from Puerto Rico!

I just recently purchased a rear shock(rock shox ario w/ lockout) for my mountain bike 2005 y26. I am now looking for a nice fork in the same price range. I would really like a lockout also. WHats a good fork in that range of money. $250? what measurements do i need to know? do i also buy a headset? I am not gonna get rid of the bike, most replies tell me to do this, i am pretty fond of this bike. help me out guys thanks.
You're wasting your money. I keep telling you this but you fail to listen. For the amount of money you're spending on "upgrades" you could have bought a bike that will out perform that Y26 you have.
http://bolind.com/productImages/1131.jpg

You're wasting your money. I keep telling you this but you fail to listen. For the amount of money you're spending on "upgrades" you could have bought a bike that will out perform that Y26 you have.


Why rain on his parade? he obviously enjoys riding his y26 even if he upgrades the hell out of it its not like the parts are goin to waste maybe one day he will upgrade the frame and use all the "useless" upgrades on a better frame

Why rain on his parade? he obviously enjoys riding his y26 even if he upgrades the hell out of it its not like the parts are goin to waste maybe one day he will upgrade the frame and use all the "useless" upgrades on a better frame
Yep, thats what i did.
I started off with an xmart bike and replaced every part until there sint anything left from that P.O.S.

what do i need to know? what measurements? let me know.

Since the bike doesnt have much travel (like 30mm probably) It isnt worth getting a new fork. Forks usually have 80mm of travel or more, and would be too big for the bike. You would probably need a new headset too, as well as a new stem.

Wow...unbelievable price. I hate the shafting I receive in terms of prices. That fork would cost me at least $500 CAD when the exchange rate puts it at less than $300 Canadian. Gawd.

477 actually. And really, we still get better prices than in euro or aussieland :)

Since the bike doesnt have much travel (like 30mm probably) It isnt worth getting a new fork. Forks usually have 80mm of travel or more, and would be too big for the bike. You would probably need a new headset too, as well as a new stem.

The bike does not have 80mm of travel but it does has well over 30mm of travel, 70 mm to be exact. The fork is an insync grind 2. The specs of the bike are below the only thing i have changed so far is the rear shock which now has a rs ario w/ lockout. What else would i need to change to get either the rs duke xc or the pilot sl w/ lockout?

Frameset
Sizes: 16, 17.5, 19"
Frame: Alpha Aluminum
Front Suspension: InSync Grind 2, 70mm
Rear Shock: Rock Shox Ario w/Lockout
Wheels
Wheels: Alloy front, Shimano RM40 rear hub; WTB Dual Duty rims
Tires Bontrager Connection Trail, 26x2.0"
Drivetrain
Shifters: Shimano EF29
Front Derailleur: Shimano C050
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Acera
Crankset: SR 42/34/24
Cassette: SRAM 730 12-32, 7speed
Pedals: Alloy platform, clipless adaptable
Components
Saddle: Bontrager Sport
Seatpost: Bontrager
Handlebars: 30mm rise
Stem: Bontrager, 25 degree
Headset: Aheadset, semi-cartridge, sealed
Brakeset: Tektro V w/Shimano STI levers

MX pro ETA

Why rain on his parade? he obviously enjoys riding his y26 even if he upgrades the hell out of it its not like the parts are goin to waste maybe one day he will upgrade the frame and use all the "useless" upgrades on a better frame

I don't think he is raining on his parade. He is trying to help him out and others with similiar thoughts reading this thread. I don't mean to sound insensitive to those with limited resources. But I read a lot of these posts about buying lower end bikes (most not as low as the y26) because people can't afford better bikes. Which is fine. Then, within the next months they have $300 to throw at. 99 times out of 100 they would be better off waiting and buying the better bike in one shot instead of upgrading. Or ride what you got use it to its fullest, save the money, and buy a completely better bike later on. This is especially the case with those with limited resources since in my experience parts cost more when you purchase a seatpost here and a fork there. If you have the money to do it, then buy the better bike initially. I think you get a much better 'value' package or bang for your buck.

And for those with unlimited bike resources, do what ever you like.

I don't think he is raining on his parade. He is trying to help him out and others with similiar thoughts reading this thread. I don't mean to sound insensitive to those with limited resources. But I read a lot of these posts about buying lower end bikes (most not as low as the y26) because people can't afford better bikes. Which is fine. Then, within the next months they have $300 to throw at. 99 times out of 100 they would be better off waiting and buying the better bike in one shot instead of upgrading. Or ride what you got use it to its fullest, save the money, and buy a completely better bike later on. This is especially the case with those with limited resources since in my experience parts cost more when you purchase a seatpost here and a fork there. If you have the money to do it, then buy the better bike initially. I think you get a much better 'value' package or bang for your buck.

And for those with unlimited bike resources, do what ever you like.

I totally agree! but you dont know my plans... I understand you are trying to help me but, cmon you know my bike would be better off with a better fork and rear shock. I will always have these parts. If i buy a new frame i got some parts. I just feel that if somone asks a question they should answer, not say BUY another bike yours sucks! You know what i mean?

I totally agree! but you dont know my plans... I understand you are trying to help me but, cmon you know my bike would be better off with a better fork and rear shock. I will always have these parts. If i buy a new frame i got some parts. I just feel that if somone asks a question they should answer, not say BUY another bike yours sucks! You know what i mean?

I don't think he is saying your bike sucks. Well maybe he is I don't know.
But you said it yourself.......you are fond of your bike. Thats awesome. Ride the hell out of it. I don't think anyone is telling you to buy a new bike. But don't upgrade what you have. It is not worth it.

but see thats the thing it has been worth it, the rear shock is miles apart from what i had. Down hill is 100 times better and going uphill now with the lockout is... i cant even explain how much better it is. Thats what im trying to say. I think a fork would really compliment the rear shock. I might not even buy but if i run across some money i would like to know what to do. Its all in fun Unsuspended.

Why rain on his parade? he obviously enjoys riding his y26 even if he upgrades the hell out of it its not like the parts are goin to waste maybe one day he will upgrade the frame and use all the "useless" upgrades on a better frame

That's right, the frame is just another part that can be replaced when the time comes. ;)

I totally agree! but you dont know my plans... I understand you are trying to help me but, cmon you know my bike would be better off with a better fork and rear shock. I will always have these parts. If i buy a new frame i got some parts. I just feel that if somone asks a question they should answer, not say BUY another bike yours sucks! You know what i mean?

adelii, here's something to think about before buying a fork for your Y bike. You say the Y bike has a 70mm travel fork. So the closest you're going to come to that with a new fork is an 80mm fork. So, let say you buy a new 80mm fork and then decide next year to upgrade the frame. Only now you decide that you really would like a bike with more than 80mm travel. That new 80mm fork of yours isn't going to work on a bike designed for 120mm or more of travel. You're stuck with a fork you can't use. You could sell it on Ebay but you're going to take a hit on the price. Just a thought.

The folks here who are telling you you're waisting your money upgrading the Y bike aren't doing it because they get a kick out of telling you your bike sucks, they're trying to save you some money.

If you know you need to upgrade your fork, wheels, brakes, shifters, deraileurs, pedals, cranks, handlebar, seatpost, headset, bottom bracket AND frame, either do it all at once by buying a new, or used bike. If you can't afford to buy it all at once, starting with a new frame, buy your new bike piece by piece and have fun building it up while you get your moneys worth out of the Y bike. Best part is, in the end you'll have 2 bikes.

adelii, here's something to think about before buying a fork for your Y bike. You say the Y bike has a 70mm travel fork. So the closest you're going to come to that with a new fork is an 80mm fork. So, let say you buy a new 80mm fork and then decide next year to upgrade the frame. Only now you decide that you really would like a bike with more than 80mm travel. That new 80mm fork of yours isn't going to work on a bike designed for 120mm or more of travel. You're stuck with a fork you can't use. You could sell it on Ebay but you're going to take a hit on the price. Just a thought.

The folks here who are telling you you're waisting your money upgrading the Y bike aren't doing it because they get a kick out of telling you your bike sucks, they're trying to save you some money.

If you know you need to upgrade your fork, wheels, brakes, shifters, deraileurs, pedals, cranks, handlebar, seatpost, headset, bottom bracket AND frame, either do it all at once by buying a new, or used bike. If you can't afford to buy it all at once, starting with a new frame, buy your new bike piece by piece and have fun building it up while you get your moneys worth out of the Y bike. Best part is, in the end you'll have 2 bikes.

Thats basically what im doing, im just building up the bike to eventually have enough pieces for two bikes. I cant do it all at once. I really did what i wanted to do or better said what i needed to do which was change out the rear shock. I know everyone was trying to save me money, I should have said fom the beginning that iwant ed to eventually get another bike. The thing is I dont know yet what other frame i would like. Thanks for the advice on the fork. What is the travel on the fuel bikes that trek make? I thought 80 mm was pretty standard.

Why has no one mentioned a fork with adjustable travel??? Why not get a fork like the Manitou Black (on closeout) that has the 80 to 100 mm travel adjust settings? Or a Rock Shox with the U-Turn adjustable travel?

That way, for most of your riding, you can set it in the 80 mm mode and it'll match your travel for the rear and not mess up your geometry. Then when you hit your downhill sections of the trail, you switch to 100mm and have a blast.

This would be a fork worthy of swapping to a new frame when the time comes. If you look, you could probably find a closeout on a Black for around $150.

Oh yeah, you DON'T need a new headset or stem. Your bike is threadless, so you can keep the headset on there.


Stem: Bontrager, 25 degree
Headset: Aheadset, semi-cartridge, sealed


You just need to remove the bearing race from the steerer tube and mount it onto the new fork. Let the bike shop do this for you. It'll only take them 10 mins, and shouldn't cost more than $15.00. It requires some special tool to set the race onto the new steerer tube without damaging it.

Why has no one mentioned a fork with adjustable travel??? Why not get a fork like the Manitou Black (on closeout) that has the 80 to 100 mm travel adjust settings? Or a Rock Shox with the U-Turn adjustable travel?

That way, for most of your riding, you can set it in the 80 mm mode and it'll match your travel for the rear and not mess up your geometry. Then when you hit your downhill sections of the trail, you switch to 100mm and have a blast.

This would be a fork worthy of swapping to a new frame when the time comes. If you look, you could probably find a closeout on a Black for around $150.

Oh yeah, you DON'T need a new headset or stem. Your bike is threadless, so you can keep the headset on there.



You just need to remove the bearing race from the steerer tube and mount it onto the new fork. Let the bike shop do this for you. It'll only take them 10 mins, and shouldn't cost more than $15.00. It requires some special tool to set the race onto the new steerer tube without damaging it.

Now we are talking! That what i wanted to know thanks alot for that advice. So is that manitou black any better than lets say a rs pilot sl with pop lock? Or any better than rs duke xc? 150 sounds like it could be done soon. let me know.

Is there such a shock that you adjust the travel by a knob externally? Like lets say 80-120" of travel by twisting the knob? Also if there is such a thing will it have a lockout? Im not quite sure about what air assist means or rebound adjust means? Also what does (Travel: 80 or 100mm, internally convertible ) mean?

Is there such a shock that you adjust the travel by a knob externally? Like lets say 80-120" of travel by twisting the knob?
rock shox used to make one. I think this year they discontinued it. You might beable to find one on ebay.

Also if there is such a thing will it have a lockout?
No idea

Im not quite sure about what air assist means or rebound adjust means? Also what does (Travel: 80 or 100mm, internally convertible ) mean?
Air assist means you pump air in to for fork for the preload resistance. The "assist" im assuming it also has a coil resistance.
Rebound means you can set how fast the shock bounces back up or extends back after the compression.
internally convertible means you can adjust the travel but you need to take about the shock and adjust it. ITs not externally adjustable.

Hope this helps.


BTW the duke i posted is adjustable. 63-108 i believe.

The duke is at a good price but im looking for a lockout feature also.