Road Cycling - Helmet for summer

Summer's here and my head is roasting!!!
I'm looking at a Giro Eclipse, any comments? It has 24 vents, although they don't look very big. I need something with big vents and huge exhuast ports. The only wind around here nowadays is the wind I create from moving forward on my bike, and the little vents on my Trek Vapor don't cut the mustard.

I have the Pneumo and it feels like it's not on my head at all. I guess it should work well there because it works well here in a tropical country.

Cheers!

If you're after lots of ventilation, I'm fairly happy with my Giro Targa, only 14 vents, but great big ones.

Richard

Yes, I have the Giro Pneumo, also. It's the best helmet I've ever had, especially for summer heat. The vents are great. Not to mention that comfort!

You know, I have a helmet that I LOVE. But, no one sells replacement padding inserts. That really.. sucks!!

performance (http://www.performancebike.com/) has the predecessor to the pneumo, the boreas, for $90-100. it's a 2000 model i believe. it's light, well vented, and on some days actually TOO cool for the foggy wind that comes blowing through town and right through the helmet! :D

bt

I'd have to agree with just about everyother reply on this board... the Giro Pnuemo is by far the best helmet I have ever owned for warm weather. It feels like nothing is on my head.

Just bought a Limar F107+. Love it. Low profile, cool venting. I have more of an oval shaped head (as do most of us all). This helmet is great for looks and comfort. I got the sivery/white, goes with everthing and is high viz. Check it out. It's the anti-mushroom head. Heheheh.

I'm about to buy a helmet myself. I'm debating whether to buy a $30 helmet or a $100+ helmet. I know you get what you pay for, but the thing is, I heard that a helmet should be replaced every 3 or 4 years even if there isn't damage done to it.

Is this true? I don't ride that often. It's sad that I'm only a weekend rider (I wish I could ride more). :( That is my only concern about buying an expensive helmet. I'll feel cheated by paying so much for it and using it so little.

You thoughts please.

Cadd, it seems to me that more expensive helmets seem to offer more ventilation and possibly minor features designed to improve fit and/or comfort. In fact, I have heard (uh, oh) that some of the expensive helmets offer less protection because of the increased number of vents and the consequently decreased amount of material. I don't have a source for this.

I don't know at all that helmets 'break down' such that they need to be replaced every 2 or 3 years but in that time I'm sure to have dropped it a few times and I don't mind spending the money at that interval since I don't buy $100 helmets.

Cadd,

I bought Giro Stelvio, the cheapest road model that was made
for 2001 (I think). I paid $29 for it.
Its comfortable, has lots of vents (17 to Pneumo's 19), has
roc-lock3 and can be found at Performance bike on sale.
Sure it isn't the latest high zoot, but its functional.
Just my $.02

Marty

I have a back trails x-mart helmet. Think I paid 20 bucks for it. The best they had! It was purchased when I was brand new into riding and not sure at all if it was just a passing fancy. My head feels like baked ziti in it. So little money, so much gear!!

Kathy

Besides those already mentioned, the Specialized S1, R1 helmets have HUGE flow-thru. I like the looks of the Limar f107.
The only thing "less safe" on these helmets is if some object penetrates in the vent holes. Unless you crash headfirst into a field of upright poles, they are just as safe as any other helmet.

If your helmet did not have a hardshell, maybe 3 years of UV damage might lessen the effectiveness...but I doubt it. A helmet won't break down for about 10 years so rotting pads or skanky straps/hardware will go before your helmet's crashworthyness.

Expensive helmets are expensive because they have bonded hardshells that use a more expensive manufacture process. They also have the latest fit features and high quality materials. They are the latest fashion and usually the lightest weight with the most/biggest vents.
There are many mid/low priced helmets that look great and work well. If you don't ride much, it doesn't make sense to invest in a $100 helmet. Get something in the $50-70 range. Many are very close in features and look great.

Does the Pneumo give you the mushroom head look? I've thought about a Limar but they don't look as well ventilated as the Pneumo. Some people don't seem to be bothered by a hot head, but I HATE it. I'd rather ride when it's below zero and everything on me freezing than have a hot head. But sub-zero riding isn't an option, so the next best thing is super-ventilated helmet.

I've worn a Giro Eclipse for a year and half and I really like it. Great air circulation. Like bt_ said, in coastal NorCal it's almost too cool. I also think that it's one of the best looking helmets around. You probably can get it at a fairly low price these days.

Rich

Originally posted by RacerX
Besides those already mentioned, the Specialized S1, R1 helmets have HUGE flow-thru. I like the looks of the Limar f107.
The only thing "less safe" on these helmets is if some object penetrates in the vent holes. Unless you crash headfirst into a field of upright poles, they are just as safe as any other helmet.

If your helmet did not have a hardshell, maybe 3 years of UV damage might lessen the effectiveness...but I doubt it. A helmet won't break down for about 10 years so rotting pads or skanky straps/hardware will go before your helmet's crashworthyness.

Expensive helmets are expensive because they have bonded hardshells that use a more expensive manufacture process. They also have the latest fit features and high quality materials. They are the latest fashion and usually the lightest weight with the most/biggest vents.
There are many mid/low priced helmets that look great and work well. If you don't ride much, it doesn't make sense to invest in a $100 helmet. Get something in the $50-70 range. Many are very close in features and look great.
Point well taken. As a matter of fact, I did that. I purchased a $45 helmet yesterday (on sale from $55). I'll give more info later. I don't know the exact model, but it's a BELL. I'll post up the model when I get home from work tonight.

Ok, I went to the LBS this past weekend and spent some more $$$.

Here's what I got:

Bell Aquila helmet for $45 (I got the black one)
http://www.bellbikehelmets.com/main/product/aquila.html
Specialized Comp Mountain shoes $85
http://www.specialized.com/SBCEqProduct.jsp?section=11401&browselevel=shoes&JServSessionIdroot=dgb16uo5nq.j27002
Tube (which I have to return because he gave me a larger size than I needed...this year's sirrus have 700x28s I believe, mine has 700x26) $4
Patch kit & irons $3
A nice tire gauge $15
Trek gloves $13

This is beginning to be an expensive hobby. :D

I fell once with the shoes...this was when I actually clicked off my right foot and rested it on the ground. I then took a sip of water and totally forgot about my left foot. A minute later I decided to dismount off the bike and sit on the bench that was next to me. I tried lifting my left foot and tumbled to the left and fell with the bike. That sucked :o

For those who have the PD-M424 pedals, did you have a problem with the shoes? The LBS had to grind off some of the rubber sole (spelling???). I felt bad. But has anyone heard of this? These shoes cost me $85!!! I don't want the rubber to be grinded off! After they did that, it still didn't click on. They got a mechanic out and he started messing with the pedals. I think he loosened those screws (2 to a pedal...one on the bottom and one on top). After he did that he shoe clicked in easily. Do you think that would have worked in the first place? Did you think grinding the bottom was necessary? I feel cheated now. :(

Another thing about the shoes. There were 4 little rounded things that came with it in the box. The only place where I think they fit is at the bottom of the shoe (in the front).... 2 on each shoe. What do those things do? Should I put them on? Right now those holes in the shoes are covered with screws. Another thing I noticed is that the metal piece under the ball of your foot(cleats???) is scraping the ground when I walk. Should I worry about that?

Sometimes I just wished I was riding a $59 X-mart bike so that I don't have to worry so much :(

I want to learn about the bike, but I'm so scared to touch and adjust them. I gotta get my hands on an older bike to fool around with.

I'm pretty sure Specialized shoes are spd compatible so grinding should not be necessary. Sounds like the mechanic did the correct fix, the "grinder" did not-- I maybe wrong.

The plugs that came in the box maybe to cover the spd screw holes in case you did not want to use spd pedals.

SPD's will grind on the ground when you walk. If the sides of the shoe are tall enough, they won't. Most of the time you get some "clicking" when you walk. They sell replacement cleats when you wear those out--but that's a long ways off.

Keep the cleat screws tight. You don't want them moving around.

I'm sorry but I'm confused...what does "SPD" stand for?

So you're telling me that the bottom of my shoes got grinded for nothing... :eek:

I don't appreciate that! :mad:

I'm never going to that LBS on Sundays again. IT'S LIKE A WAR ZONE IN THERE.

Originally posted by Cadd
I'm sorry but I'm confused...what does "SPD" stand for?

shimano pd-mxxxxxx (spd) but everyone calls them "spuds".

Originally posted by RacerX
The plugs that came in the box maybe to cover the spd screw holes in case you did not want to use spd pedals.

So if I put those on, I can't ride with them right?