Bicycle Mechanics - Popping/clicking when I pedal hard.

I just bought a 15 year old Trek 1100 at a yard sale last week, got a tune up, went out for a ride last night to test it out, and it makes a popping/clicking noise when i pedal with pressure. I didn't ride a lot so I don't know if the noise continues or not throughout a ride.

This especially occurs when I start going up a hill from either a stop, or at real low speeds (I suppose the pressure is greatest then). No sound when there is little to no pressure. It sounds as if it is coming from the crank - and i can feel the vibration of the pop/click in the pedals when it occurs - the sound also seems to come from the crank area, but I'm sure I am not really able to pinpoint the origin of the sound/

Any ideas or recommendations you guys can give me to remedy this problem? I read through some threads, but nothing seemed to be this exact problem.

Any and all help will be greatly apprecitated. Thanks.

Do you / can you do your own mech?

Check for end play at the cranks, or even the pedals, the BB may be loose if it's the old ball brg style. If it's a cartridge style, it could be worn. Seatposts can often make you think it's the BB, so make sure it's greased, and the seat bolts are nice and tight, and greased.

Who tuned it?

this sounds very much like the click i was having not long ago. The problem was that the driveside crankarm was hitting the frame. it didnt on the stand or anything but when i pedal hard and those crankarms flex it certainly did. Also, have you removed and reinstalled your chainrings lately? If one chainring bolt is loose it will cause your chainring to be "out of true" and it may end up hitting the front derailleur

Might find something here:

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/creaking_and_squeaking.shtml

creaks are the biggest PITA on a bicycle in my opinion. Therse so much that can cause it and it pisses you off more each time

Usually it's my knees.

This is my first bike since my pre-driver's license days, so doing my own mech might take some time - but i'm certainly willing to try it since I want to learn. A local shop did the tune-up, in Northern VA/ Metro DC.

I haven't touch any chainrings; however, I noticed last night that on the inside (facing the chain) part of the frame, near the crank, there are scrape marks that appear as if the chain has made contact with the frame a few times.

I think you may be right about the chainring though. When I had the bike stationary, and running the chain through to check it out, it seemed as if the chain was slowing positioning off the chainring, then slipping back on.

You guys are great with quickness of replies!

You guys are great with quickness of replies!

I'm guessing that most of us drink pretty close to a pot of coffee a day.

. . . or is that just me . . . . ?

Me too...

Just make sure EVERYTHING is tight - not "Hercules" on all the bits, but good and snug. Proper torque is good, but most mechs go by feel, not a torque wrench.

Once loose fasteners are eliminated, look for bad parts.

Thanks for all the help guys - I'll check it out tonight and update you tomorrow.

I, too, drink a pot a day (if not more). But I've been cutting back a lot these past couple weeks.

I, too, drink a pot a day (if not more). But I've been cutting back a lot these past couple weeks.

Then it's entirely possible that what you're hearing is not your bike at all, but simply the haunting wail of a body deprived of caffeine.

Don't do it.

:lol:
Maybe that's why I think my car is going to die soon, too?

Do I need special tools to do work on my bike, or do regular ones work?

Depends on the problem. Loose chainrings or shoe cleats (anybody mention that yet?) would need a hex wrench. Loose pedals need a pedal wrench (some use hex wrenches. Some that need pedal wrenches can be done with an adjustable).

Bottom brackets need special tools. If you're attempting your first fixes here, and it's a bottom bracket, you may want to bring it to the local bike shop...

Follow that Park Tools link to guide you through it. If nothing else, it's a good process of elimination (ah, another use for coffee. Sorry).

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/creaking_and_squeaking.shtml

I was just checking out my bike, and I tightened the bottom bracket a little bit, the pedals appear tight. But on my rear derailler, one of the teeth on the bottom pulley is broken off - would this cause a popping for some reason? and can I buy these at a local shop?

-and yes, this is my first fix, so I really don't know what I'm looking for or doing - but I successfully took off my rear wheel . . .

Oh, just noticed, underneath my bike, the wire that moves the front derailleur has partially slipped off the rubber thingy keeping it in place (directly underneath the bottom bracket), it makes a popping sound similar to the sound I was hearing if I put it back on the rubber, then push it off - but I don't understand how it could make this sound when I'm not changing gears. It also gives more resistance while changing gears. That doesn't really look like it can be fixed without feeding the wire through a new rubber thing. Do you guys know what I'm talking about? If so, can that be fixed as well?

Sorry for all the questions.

The missing tooth on your pulley would not cause a popping sound, yes it can be replaced, but no its not all that important.

As far as the cable guide under the bottom bracket shell, if you are not changing gears when the sound occurs, then it wouldn't be the cable sliding off the guide. And yes, you can replace that guide as well. (Should only be a couple of dollars and it's not too hard to slide the cable through a new one...is it broken though or is the cable just not threaded through the guide?) When you got a tune up on the bike, did they replace the cables? If so, they should be willing to re-route the cable for you.

The pedal bearings can click once/rev if they are full of crud or lose. They are easy to strip and clean so they are a good place to start in your hunt for the snark.

I'll check my pedal bearings tonight.

The cable is guided through the first half of the guide, but not the end of it ( I guess from age and wear, it won't stay on the last part of the guide). I don't believe they replaced the cables at the tune-up.

The service guy told me I probably shouldn't try to replace the pulley myself if I don't know what I'm doing (which I don't), do you think this is accurate, or I could figure it out myself without causing any harm?

Replacing jockey pullies isn't on the 'ten-hardest' list, but if you're hesitant . . . and they're not going to charge you a bunch . . . let them do it.

http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/pulleys.htm

Thanks, neil - I think I'll just take it in, they said they'll do it for a couple bucks - plus they said it'll give them the chance to match up the right pulleys. I printed out that link for future reference. I think I'll pick up one of those Zinn guides too.

A change of pedals with good bearings fixed my clicking. Could that be your problem with 15 year old bearings?

From what I've heard, you are right. The mechanic at the shop checked the bike out and said everything appears fine with the bike so more than likely it just some "crud" in the bearings, so it just needs to be cleaned and regreased. They are pretty backed up, and he said it wasn't that important right now (sounds bigger than it is), so I don't want to give up my bike for a week at the moment. I'll take it in when they slow down.

As for the the pulley, apparently the company who made it is no longer in business so they gave me the closest shimano pulley to try - but it doesn't fit. So the guy said I'd have to change the rear derailleur if I wanted.