Bicycle Mechanics - Fork/Hub incompatibility

I don't have calipers, but still, it's obvious to me that the QR axle on my front wheel is longer than the spacing of my fork dropouts. It's an old beater steel frame fixed gear conversion. I can get the wheel into the dropouts, but I have to manually spread the fork, then shove the axle into the dropouts. If the axle actually sits against the inside of the dropouts properly, the wheel is way off center. I CAN center the wheel between the fork arms and the brake pads, but then the axle is out of alignment in the dropouts.

So I'm thinking that either the fork arms are slightly bent, or this is just a mismatch betw. the axle width and the dropout spacing. How do I figure it out? The cones only have one washer over each one, so I can't reduce the hub width.

What's the easiest way to approach this? Can I spread the fork arms like I could the rear triangle? Does it really matter? Problem I'm noticing is that the nuts on the hubs don't tighten up fully without tightening the cones down--they're kind of floating freely on the axle. As a result, the cones are not properly on, the hub/wheel wobbles because of the extra play.

Once again, how do I correct this easily/cheaply? Why aren't the nuts tightening over the cones properly?
Or should I just resign myself to having a wobbly wheel (it's not THAT noticeable :(.)

Thanks for the advice!

Wow, harsh silence...

So I'm thinking that either the fork arms are slightly bent,Bingo

Can I spread the fork arms like I could the rear triangle? Does it really matter?
I'm not sure I'd do that. What's the fork made of? Is it anything special?
Problem I'm noticing is that the nuts on the hubs don't tighten up fully without tightening the cones down--they're kind of floating freely on the axle. As a result, the cones are not properly on, the hub/wheel wobbles because of the extra play. That's one I'd actually have to see in person to make an accurate assesment

Fork's nothing special--it's the original steel/chrome fork, an 80s (maybe 70s) Meridien frame. Not digging the wobble, not digging it. My second quote there, I think was a little inaccurate in its wording. What happens is, when I tighten the nuts, they actually tighten down on the washers and the cones. That's not really supposed to happen, right? Isn't the washer supposed to keep the two from interacting?
Thanks for the response, Raiyn.

you can straighten a steel fork...worth having someone with some experience take a look at it for you...

when you adjust your hubs make the cones/locknuts ever so slightly too tight...then holding the locknut still with one wrench back the cone off with the other wrench until its tight against the locknut...that should keep them from moving...

Fork's nothing special--it's the original steel/chrome fork, an 80s (maybe 70s) Meridien frame. Not digging the wobble, not digging it. My second quote there, I think was a little inaccurate in its wording. What happens is, when I tighten the nuts, they actually tighten down on the washers and the cones. That's not really supposed to happen, right? Isn't the washer supposed to keep the two from interacting?
Thanks for the response, Raiyn.


You have to hold the cones with a seperate wrench, then tighten the locknuts.

You have to hold the cones with a seperate wrench, then tighten the locknuts.
Yup.
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_hub.shtml

Aaah, that's what I was missing--tightening the cone against the locknut ON THE SAME SIDE. Thanks for all of the info, cats. Think it's all I need, keep groovin' :D

You dont need a washer between the cone and the locknut. You can tighten the locknut directly against the cone.

Andrew, even better info. Thanks a lot. Those washers are definitely making it hard to get the wheel on and off.

It's also possible that the dropouts are not mounted on the fork evenly, I once had a new bike with that problem. If that is your problem, once the cones are adjusted correctly and the lock nuts are tight, you can center the rim between the fork legs and then tighten the axle nuts to hold the wheel on-center. But as you know, the axle will not be seated all the way into one dropout. Should be safe enough if the nuts are tight.
You will also need to confirm that the rim is true and properly dished (centered on the hub). You can easily check that by reversing the wheel on the fork.

Al