Classic & Vintage - My new Miyata 100 (many pics)

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Hi everyone!
I just started biking a lot 2 months ago, and I've been looking for a road bike to replace my heavy mountain bike, since I hardly ever go off-road anymore. It was a difficult search, because no one seems to sell any smaller frames; 90% of what I found was upper 50's and 60's centimeters. I finally found a 50cm bike yesterday and brought it home.

I'm not very educated about bikes, but I would really like to learn how to fix them and don't mind getting my hands dirty. I've taken a bunch of pictures of what I thought were important parts. The brakes felt strong to me, and the shifters worked well, as far as I could tell.

So here come the questions:
1. Was $50 a good deal for this bike in this condition?
2. From the pictures, are there any parts/components that need replacing immediately?
3. Do any parts that need replacing in the near future (months/year)?
4. My brakes feel very "squishy" at the very end of the pull. Is this because of the cables or the brake pads?
5. The second pair of brake levers (closest to the shifters) are still a little loose even though I tighthened the screws. How do I fix this?
6. The handlebars feel too narrow for me. If I buy a replacement, would I need to change the shifters and brake levers, too? If not, what cheap bars do you recommend?

Well, that's it for now. Please feel free to give me any advice at all, since I'm still a beginner at this.

So here come the questions:
1. Was $50 a good deal for this bike in this condition?
2. From the pictures, are there any parts/components that need replacing immediately?
3. Do any parts that need replacing in the near future (months/year)?
4. My brakes feel very "squishy" at the very end of the pull. Is this because of the cables or the brake pads?
5. The second pair of brake levers (closest to the shifters) are still a little loose even though I tighthened the screws. How do I fix this?
6. The handlebars feel too narrow for me. If I buy a replacement, would I need to change the shifters and brake levers, too? If not, what cheap bars do you recommend?

Well, that's it for now. Please feel free to give me any advice at all, since I'm still a beginner at this.

Cool that you're taking up biking.
1. Don't sweat the price. $50.00 isn't the best price you might have found, but it seems within reason.
2/3. The derailleur cables look rather rusty. They may still function, but I'd want new ones if mine looked like that. New would improve shifting. Can't see your brake cables, but if they look like the derailleur cables, you really should change them. Missing a shift can be annoying. Missing a stop can be fatal. The chain definitely needs to be at least cleaned - if not replaced. There looks to be a lot of sand or dirt - which adds friction, and is bad for your rear derailleur and freewheel.
4. Hard to tell. Could be that the cables need to be replaced - could be that they aren't adjusted properly (too much clearance between pads and rim). Might also be that you're using the brake lever extensions. You might consider removing those, or if not, at least get in the habit of using the primary lever.
5. Easiest way is to take them off. Would have to look at them to see what's actually happening if you want to keep them.
6. Most important is to get your bike so that its comfortable to you. Get handlebars that feel good - and possibly also get a different stem (the thing that goes into the head tube and actually holds the handlebars) if you feel you're reaching too far, or are cramped. In either case,you will need to remount the brake levers, although it should not be necessary to replace them unless you go to a completely different style of bars. If you just change the bar, you won't have to touch the shifters. If you change the stem, you probably won't have to change the shifters, though you would need to take them off and put them back on.

You did ok for $50.00. If I had that bike and spent 1-2 hours just cleaning and putting on new cables, I could sell it all day long around here for at least $100.00.

Get youself some degreaser, some WD-40, a couple of scour pads, and and get to work. Most of the rust is just surface rust and shouild come right off with a little elbow grease. Were it mine and I intended to keep it, I'd strip it, clean and inspect everything, and re-assemble. No better way to learn, and you will be amazed at how well it cleans up.

This is a low end Miyata, but even low end Miyatas were built and finished well.

BTW, if it has steel wheels, you might want to see if you can scrounge a set of alloys from the LBS graveyard - much lighter and they will actually stop when wet.... :D

The extension levers are great, but only if you know how to use them. They don't call 'em suicide levers for nothing! Just understand that you don't get your full stopping power with these. Use 'em to slow down, or stop when you're going slowly. Otherwise, USAZorro has great advice, and definitely check to see how hard/crusty/dry the brake pads are. If they fit the description above, replace 'em: they're cheap. And all the cables should go, plus new housing. Chain, too. But when you replace the chain, do the freewheel (back gear cluster, in case you don't know the term) too (they wear at the same time). You can live with the cables for a while, but the chain will really affect your ride (skipping gears). Oh, yeah, and welcome to the world of classic bike restoration!

Thank you all for the helpful replies.


2/3. The derailleur cables look rather rusty. They may still function, but I'd want new ones if mine looked like that. New would improve shifting. Can't see your brake cables, but if they look like the derailleur cables, you really should change them. Missing a shift can be annoying. Missing a stop can be fatal. The chain definitely needs to be at least cleaned - if not replaced. There looks to be a lot of sand or dirt - which adds friction, and is bad for your rear derailleur and freewheel.
Once I get my Zinn manual, replacing the cables and chain are the first jobs I will do. Does Zinn have a section on friction shifters?
Also, do the chainrings and cogs look too worn out? If I were to replace any parts in the drivetrain, where would be the best place to get Suntour derailleurs, gears, shifters, etc?



4. Hard to tell. Could be that the cables need to be replaced - could be that they aren't adjusted properly (too much clearance between pads and rim). Might also be that you're using the brake lever extensions. You might consider removing those, or if not, at least get in the habit of using the primary lever.
5. Easiest way is to take them off. Would have to look at them to see what's actually happening if you want to keep them.
Yeah, I am using the extensions a lot. I am still a bit too scared to use the drops frequently. There is about one dime's thickness between the rim and the pads.



6. Most important is to get your bike so that its comfortable to you. Get handlebars that feel good - and possibly also get a different stem (the thing that goes into the head tube and actually holds the handlebars) if you feel you're reaching too far, or are cramped. In either case,you will need to remount the brake levers, although it should not be necessary to replace them unless you go to a completely different style of bars. If you just change the bar, you won't have to touch the shifters. If you change the stem, you probably won't have to change the shifters, though you would need to take them off and put them back on.
That is very good to know that it'll be simple. I also think the handlebar tube diameter is too small, so I'll have to get something both wider and thicker to fit my hands.





Get youself some degreaser, some WD-40, a couple of scour pads, and and get to work. Most of the rust is just surface rust and shouild come right off with a little elbow grease. Were it mine and I intended to keep it, I'd strip it, clean and inspect everything, and re-assemble. No better way to learn, and you will be amazed at how well it cleans up.
I really want to strip it and clean it, but then I'd have to ride my awful Huffy in the meantime :( . I think it's definitely something that I'll have to do.
I'm not clear on the rust cleaning procedure yet. Do I soak both the degreaser and WD-40 on the part before I scrub it? Or does one go after the other?



BTW, if it has steel wheels, you might want to see if you can scrounge a set of alloys from the LBS graveyard - much lighter and they will actually stop when wet....
How much do you think they'll cost? Also, I have 27 1/8 inch tires, so will there be alloy rims that fit that size? I've read that there will be brake problems if I use the more common 700c wheels.





The extension levers are great, but only if you know how to use them. They don't call 'em suicide levers for nothing! Just understand that you don't get your full stopping power with these. Use 'em to slow down, or stop when you're going slowly. Otherwise, USAZorro has great advice, and definitely check to see how hard/crusty/dry the brake pads are. If they fit the description above, replace 'em: they're cheap. And all the cables should go, plus new housing. Chain, too. But when you replace the chain, do the freewheel (back gear cluster, in case you don't know the term) too (they wear at the same time). You can live with the cables for a while, but the chain will really affect your ride (skipping gears). Oh, yeah, and welcome to the world of classic bike restoration!

Ah, so now I know they're called suicide levers. I like staying up top, though, since it's easier to reach the stem shifters. If I'm in the drops, I keep worrying that I'll lose my balance by reaching so far. Is there a technique I'm missing, or will I just eventually learn to keep my balance?
The brakes are a little hard - there's no "give" when I poke the rubber. However, all I see around are brake pads that are twice as long as mine. Will those work?
If I replace the freewheel, would something like a Shimano 6-speed (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=87&subcategory=1109&brand=&sku=13796&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=) work with the all Suntour stuff?

Sorry for all the questions, but all this is pretty overwhelming and exciting at the same time.

I'm not clear on the rust cleaning procedure yet. Do I soak both the degreaser and WD-40 on the part before I scrub it? Or does one go after the other?


For metal parts, I spray on some WD-40, rub gently with a dish type scouring pad or sometimes a "Chore Boy" metal pad (or even 0000 steel wool) until the rust disolves, and wipe clean with a cloth. As long as there is lubrication for the pad, it will not mar the finish and will take the surface rust right off. Do not use this method on painted surfaces.... :eek:



How much do you think they'll cost? Also, I have 27 1/8 inch tires, so will there be alloy rims that fit that size? I've read that there will be brake problems if I use the more common 700c wheels.


27" rims are out of favor, so you should be able to pick up some cast-offs cheap. The last set I nabbed had a 7 cog freewheel and good (Continental 2000) tires and tubes. Cost me all of $5.00 at a thrift shop. Look for bike swaps and bike co-ops in your area, and you should have no trouble finding what you need for reasonable dough. Steel's fine for now, but the alloys will reduce weight and don't inhibit braking when wet.

I have a Miyata with 27" tires, and they are not hard to find (yet!)

Looks like all you really have to do for starters is clean/inspect, and replace the cables, housings, and brake pads. Simple enough, and will produce noticeable improvements for a smal expenditure.

If by chance you happen to be in the SF Bay Area, shoot me a PM and we can get together for a show and tell.

John D.

Looks like it has triple-butted Cro-Mo tubing. Can it be that low end?

Looks like it has triple-butted Cro-Mo tubing. Can it be that low end?
I have a miyata catalog from 1986 that showes this as part of the " all round sport series".there are 4 bikes in that section and it is #2. the color is called diamond blue

frame material...cr-mo triple butted tubing
front fork.........magnalite
headset...........tange
deraileurs.........suntour (f) ar,(*r)ar-gt with ubn stem shifters
cluster.............suntour perfect 6 speed 14-32 teeth
crankset..........sr-suc-310 52x42 teeth(yours looks like the model on the next cheapest bike
......................sr-ctc-5dxc 52-42)
rims................araya sp-30 27x1 1/4
brakeset..........dia-comp 500 n w/ dual levers
hubs...............sansin
stem...............sr custom alloy
weight............26.9 lbs

I wouldnt worry about the rims. even the cheapest bike in the catalog has alloy wheels. 27 " tire are plentiful as well.either cheap wal-mart :( or cheap nashbar :) standard brake blocks are avalable as well.no broblem.nashbar stocks cool stops in black that would work well for this bike.

to reply about where to get suntour parts. they are no longer made so e-bay is about it. or if you are lucky a local shop mught have something left over. good news is they work well and last a really long time. I have some suntour derailers from a 1976 fuji that still work great.and you can mix and match shimano parts easily on a bike this old. in fact it came new with a shimano chain!

what ever you do,it looks like a good find and have fun riding it!

(sorry about all the dots. the specs wouldnt stay seperated and they were realy hard to read)

I wouldnt worry about the rims. even the cheapest bike in the catalog has alloy wheels. 27 " tire are plentiful as well.either cheap wal-mart :( or cheap nashbar :) standard brake blocks are avalable as well.no broblem.nashbar stocks cool stops in black that would work well for this bike.


Good to know. I was trying to determine if the wheels were steel by looking at the photo's, and couldn't be sure. I recently sold a Miyata One Ten and it had steel wheels, so I just assumed..... :o

FWIW, my main ride is a Miyata 215ST with a CroMo frame. It is considered the low end of their 1988 touring lineup, and I have been more than satisfied with it for all these years It is a well built bike.

John D.

Once I get my Zinn manual, replacing the cables and chain are the first jobs I will do. Does Zinn have a section on friction shifters?
Also, do the chainrings and cogs look too worn out? If I were to replace any parts in the drivetrain, where would be the best place to get Suntour derailleurs, gears, shifters, etc?.

I'm not familiar with the manual, but friction shifters are pretty simple devices - just keep track of how things came apart. Unless the teeth on the little wheels in the derailleur are worn down, simple cleaning (clean the whole thin as well as you can without disassembling it if you're not confident about getting it back together) should suffice. Probably a good idea to do that when you're cleaning or replacing the chain. If they are worn, you can just replace the little wheels - your LBS might have some you can take off from another derailleur they may have in the back room (find an LBS that's been in business for 20+ years if possible). As for the freewheel - it looks like you could ride up a cliff in the low gear :D . There too, a simple cleaning should suffice. If the teeth don't look too worn, or if you find you aren't using some of the gears on it at all, then consider replacing it. Again, your LBS might have usable cast-offs in the back.



Yeah, I am using the extensions a lot. I am still a bit too scared to use the drops frequently. There is about one dime's thickness between the rim and the pads.

Not the spacing then, either the extensions or the cables.



That is very good to know that it'll be simple. I also think the handlebar tube diameter is too small, so I'll have to get something both wider and thicker to fit my hands.

Once you find bars that are the proper width, the diameter can best be addressed by wrapping with a thicker covering. Grab-ons (black foam), or cork tape both add considerably to diameter.


...I like staying up top, though, since it's easier to reach the stem shifters. If I'm in the drops, I keep worrying that I'll lose my balance by reaching so far. Is there a technique I'm missing, or will I just eventually learn to keep my balance?
The brakes are a little hard - there's no "give" when I poke the rubber. However, all I see around are brake pads that are twice as long as mine. Will those work?
If I replace the freewheel, would something like (Shimano pic) a work with the all Suntour stuff?


A lot of people ride with hands up top, and operate the brake with the notch between the thumb and index finger on the top of the brake lever. That way you're not in the drops a lot unless you want to be. You'll get used to the different hand positions soon enough once you get things adjusted properly.

Brake pads may be a bit glazed from age. if you sand off the very outer layer of the contact surface, to remove that glaze, they will probably work better. As for pad size - while bigger actually is better, the old style/size have never caused me a problem if they're properly adjusted.

Finally, your will find that there are freewheels and cassettes. Cassettes are newer, and won't work for what you have unless you change the wheel or the hub. With freewheels, there are different threads, but any Italian and almost any Japanese freewheel should work as a replacement.

Again, I wish you the best. It feels great to see someone go through the same learning process I've gone through not so long ago.

You did ok...

What I did last year, after I got an old 69 Schwinn, stripped it down completely, to pieces, and then stripped the frame, sanded it down, repainted, new cables, wash everything and oil it back up, put it together again... Frustrating but well informative fun job... At the end, something more fun to ride...

Learned a lot, and now moved up, just got a used but much better ride... Fun fun fun... (the flats suck though...)

For metal parts, I spray on some WD-40, rub gently with a dish type scouring pad or sometimes a "Chore Boy" metal pad (or even 0000 steel wool) until the rust disolves, and wipe clean with a cloth. As long as there is lubrication for the pad, it will not mar the finish and will take the surface rust right off. Do not use this method on painted surfaces.... :eek:
Yikes, you weren't kidding about needing a lot of elbow grease. Two hours later, and I still haven't cleaned everything. Any good tips on cleaning spokes? I'm guessing that disassembling the wheel and soaking the spokes in something would be the best option. I don't know how to build/true wheels yet, so I'd want to keep the wheels intact.



27" rims are out of favor, so you should be able to pick up some cast-offs cheap. The last set I nabbed had a 7 cog freewheel and good (Continental 2000) tires and tubes. Cost me all of $5.00 at a thrift shop. Look for bike swaps and bike co-ops in your area, and you should have no trouble finding what you need for reasonable dough. Steel's fine for now, but the alloys will reduce weight and don't inhibit braking when wet.
I finally found a magnet, and the rims are indeed alloy rims. The spokes however, are still steel, or maybe some other metal that attracts magnets. I'll keep an eye out at thrift shops and swaps, but I don't seem to have any luck at finding what I need there. I've read of a few people on these forums getting great used bikes for only $10 or so. The Goodwill and Salvation Army stores that I've visited hardly have 2 bikes on hand, and they're never road bikes.





I wouldnt worry about the rims. even the cheapest bike in the catalog has alloy wheels. 27 " tire are plentiful as well.either cheap wal-mart or cheap nashbar standard brake blocks are avalable as well.no broblem.nashbar stocks cool stops in black that would work well for this bike.
That's good to know. I am looking at tires on performancebike.com (they have a retail store close to where I live) and there's "wire bead" and "folding" - which type will I need? Also, do I also need to change the tire tubes at the same time? There doesn't seem to be any 27" tubes around... will 700c tubes work instead? What size?



to reply about where to get suntour parts. they are no longer made so e-bay is about it. or if you are lucky a local shop mught have something left over. good news is they work well and last a really long time. I have some suntour derailers from a 1976 fuji that still work great.and you can mix and match shimano parts easily on a bike this old. in fact it came new with a shimano chain!
Wow! :eek: It looks like I won't have to worry about derailleurs breaking for a long long time. All I'm going to do is clean them up and forget about them. At least until I want to upgrade :D
Can you be a bit more specific about part compatibility? If I go to a store and show them the numbers you posted (14-32 teeth, 52-42 teeth) will any brand they get work on my bike?





As for the freewheel - it looks like you could ride up a cliff in the low gear . There too, a simple cleaning should suffice. If the teeth don't look too worn, or if you find you aren't using some of the gears on it at all, then consider replacing it. Again, your LBS might have usable cast-offs in the back.
Yeah, I'll be sure to clean the whole drivetrain thoroughly once I get a new chain and some lubricant.
I ride my bike in a very hilly area, so I spend most of my time on the 3 lowest gears. Maybe I just have weak legs :p .



Once you find bars that are the proper width, the diameter can best be addressed by wrapping with a thicker covering. Grab-ons (black foam), or cork tape both add considerably to diameter.
I just measured myself with the wrenchscience.com calculator, and it says I need a 42cm handlebar, which is what I have right now. I think I will ride a bit longer with it and see if I get used to it. I will definitely replace the bar tape, since the stuff that is on it right now is as thin as giftwrapping ribbon.



A lot of people ride with hands up top, and operate the brake with the notch between the thumb and index finger on the top of the brake lever. That way you're not in the drops a lot unless you want to be. You'll get used to the different hand positions soon enough once you get things adjusted properly.
I just tried this hand position, and I don't get good leverage this way. It might even be less pull strength than from the suicide levers. Could this be solved by moving the brake levers up/down the handlebars?





What I did last year, after I got an old 69 Schwinn, stripped it down completely, to pieces, and then stripped the frame, sanded it down, repainted, new cables, wash everything and oil it back up, put it together again... Frustrating but well informative fun job... At the end, something more fun to ride...
Was it hard or expensive to paint? I am thinking about repainting, since there are a bunch of large scrapes and nicks everywhere on the bike. If it's too hard/expensive, I might just try to touch-up those areas.


Thanks again for all the informative replies.

[QUOTE=Carbocation]
I just tried this hand position, and I don't get good leverage this way. It might even be less pull strength than from the suicide levers. Could this be solved by moving the brake levers up/down the handlebars?
QUOTE]

Could be. That, the angle they're mounted at (I'd try moving the levers a little bit away from the fork if simply moving them up or down the curve of the bar doesn't work), or the stem height can affect your comfort. Do a little bit of experimentation with the positioning when you're in the process of replacing the bar tape. You'll find something that works well for you.

Yikes, you weren't kidding about needing a lot of elbow grease. Two hours later, and I still haven't cleaned everything. Any good tips on cleaning spokes? I'm guessing that disassembling the wheel and soaking the spokes in something would be the best option. I don't know how to build/true wheels yet, so I'd want to keep the wheels intact.


Steel spokes are a good thing, as are alloy wheels. You, my friend, are all set as far as your wheels are concerned..... :D

If the spokes are crudded up, lubricate a "chore boy" or similar pot scrubber with oil or WD-40, wrap the scrubber around a spoke, and scrup it up/down to clean it. Move to next spoke and repeat - you have 31 to go..... :eek:

John D.

Could be. That, the angle they're mounted at (I'd try moving the levers a little bit away from the fork if simply moving them up or down the curve of the bar doesn't work), or the stem height can affect your comfort. Do a little bit of experimentation with the positioning when you're in the process of replacing the bar tape. You'll find something that works well for you.
I twisted the levers towards the outside, and it feels a lot better now. Once I get some new hoods, I'll be all set.



If the spokes are crudded up, lubricate a "chore boy" or similar pot scrubber with oil or WD-40, wrap the scrubber around a spoke, and scrup it up/down to clean it. Move to next spoke and repeat - you have 31 to go.....
Yeah, that's exactly what I figured. After struggling through a dozen spokes, I was hoping for for a simpler way. I guess I'll have to grin and bear it :D.

Once this thing is shined up, you're obligated to post more pictures, you know. All this good advice isn't free...... :)

John D.

http://img267.echo.cx/img267/9869/img4284s6gi.th.jpg (http://img267.echo.cx/my.php?image=img4284s6gi.jpg)http://img265.echo.cx/img265/6508/img4281s2wl.th.jpg (http://img265.echo.cx/my.php?image=img4281s2wl.jpg)http://img265.echo.cx/img265/3395/img4283s2nd.th.jpg (http://img265.echo.cx/my.php?image=img4283s2nd.jpg)

Sorry the new pics took so long. I've attacked most of the rust and grime, but it's still not as clean as I'd hoped it would be. It doesn't show up in the pictures, but there's still a lot of pits and divots in the metal that I couldn't get rid of. After a few days of messing around with the various bits and not really improving it, I stopped. I decided to just ride it as-is and said to myself that the rust added "character" :D. I rode it today, and boy is it fast! I shaved off 10 minutes from my usual route when I was on my mountain bike. I'll have to plan out a newer, longer route now...

Another reason why I decided to stop fiddling with the Miyata is because I got a new bike! A kind neighbor saw me working on my bike and offered me his Giant Kronos road bike for free. I was upset at first, because I'd just wasted $50 on an inferior Miyata. Later, I reasoned it out and decided that 2 bikes for $25 was a pretty good deal. The Giant also has a triple-butted chromoly frame, along with downtube shifters, 700c wheels, SPD pedals, and Shimano components, which were all things that I wanted in the first place! So the Giant will be my new project bike, and I won't be too scared to take it apart completely this time, since I'll still have the Miyata to ride.

This stuff is addictive! :p

Another reason why I decided to stop fiddling with the Miyata is because I got a new bike! A kind neighbor saw me working on my bike and offered me his Giant Kronos road bike for free. I was upset at first, because I'd just wasted $50 on an inferior Miyata. Later, I reasoned it out and decided that 2 bikes for $25 was a pretty good deal. The Giant also has a triple-butted chromoly frame, along with downtube shifters, 700c wheels, SPD pedals, and Shimano components, which were all things that I wanted in the first place! So the Giant will be my new project bike, and I won't be too scared to take it apart completely this time, since I'll still have the Miyata to ride.

This stuff is addictive! :p

Nice bikes. Nice neighbor. SPD pedals? Hmmm. To each their own. Good luck with them, and have fun riding.

Maybe it's just me. I can understand the restoration of classic road bikes, golden-age cruisers, and the personal bike stored in the attic, but what is the attraction to restoring iffy, middle-to-low-end consumer-line bikes from the 80s? I don't mean to be insulting, as the poster has done an admirable job cleaning up the Miyata, but it's not exactly a honey bike. Any insight here?

Some of us are just born with the tinker's perversion. I used to build scale models before I started this. It's the same satisfaction of creating something with your hands, but at least the bikes are useful once they're finished. I know full well none of my bikes will make a collector swoon, but they didn't cost me a lot, and give me a lot of riding pleasure for a lot less than I'd have paid for new bikes. If I do it right, I'll gradually edge my way up to more exclusive (and expensive) rides.

Maybe it's just me. I can understand the restoration of classic road bikes, golden-age cruisers, and the personal bike stored in the attic, but what is the attraction to restoring iffy, middle-to-low-end consumer-line bikes from the 80s? I don't mean to be insulting, as the poster has done an admirable job cleaning up the Miyata, but it's not exactly a honey bike. Any insight here?


The difference is "restroration" vs "cleaning up". He didn't restore the bike, he cleaned the rust and grime off. There are three immediate reasons that would make me clean up a "iffy, middle-to-low-end consumer-line bike from the 80s":

1) I am planning to ride the bike. If I'm riding it, I want it clean and pretty :)

2) I am planning to sell the bike. Clean bikes bring more money that dirty ones :D

3) I find time spent wrenching on any bike therapudic.

Regards,

John D.

Maybe it's just me. I can understand the restoration of classic road bikes, golden-age cruisers, and the personal bike stored in the attic, but what is the attraction to restoring iffy, middle-to-low-end consumer-line bikes from the 80s? I don't mean to be insulting, as the poster has done an admirable job cleaning up the Miyata, but it's not exactly a honey bike. Any insight here?

I'll probably be ostracized for spilling the beans , but what the heck - sooner or later it would have come out. Here goes:

There's a worldwide network of men, mostly in their 40's, 50's and 60's, who conspire constantly with their compatriots. Rather than doing yardwork, home improvement projects, sitting in the stands at baseball games, or driving RV's up narrow mountain roads at 15 mph below the speed limit, we attempt to recapture some of the essence of our more carefree youth.

We pick old bicycles out of the trash because we can't bear to see something so obviously useful just get sent out to take up landfill space. We search the internet for a good deal on the bicycle we had in our youth, but which was somehow lost - or for the bicycle we wish we could have had when we were young and indestructible.

We network, trade parts and tips, make friends, and sometimes even gather to go on rides - bringing chaos, and cries of "what the heck is that?" to the lips of the innocents who have the misfortune of crossing our paths.

Well, there. I have done it. I feel better for having gotten that off my chest - I think.

Maybe it's just me. I can understand the restoration of classic road bikes, golden-age cruisers, and the personal bike stored in the attic, but what is the attraction to restoring iffy, middle-to-low-end consumer-line bikes from the 80s? I don't mean to be insulting, as the poster has done an admirable job cleaning up the Miyata, but it's not exactly a honey bike. Any insight here?
Best way to learn, friends will ride them, plus no sad feelings letting go of something you don't covet.

Sorry the new pics took so long. I've attacked most of the rust and grime, but it's still not as clean as I'd hoped it would be.


I'll give ya $25.00 for it..... :D

Seriously, if you like the other bike better put the Miyata up for sale on Craigs List. Small framed road bikes are aggressively sought after, even if they are not top end (at least around here). I just sold a Schwinn Sprint in the same size as your Miyata, and I was amazed at the amount of responses I got to my ad. My bike was mechanically sound and clean, but the cosmetically it was pretty rough. Didn't matter - if I had 20 of them I could have sold them all.....

John D.

I think Zorro's answer is the most compelling reason I've heard or read. THAT I can understand. I've been a bike mechanic on and off for 17 years, and have most recently rebuilt a Panasonic DX5000 with Mavic components for the sheer joy of having people say, "Cool! Old school!" That's one of the best parts of the hobby/business/obsession--some props for your insanity. :)

I'll probably be ostracized for spilling the beans

Probably?!?!?!

Dude.......you broke the code, man. We all took a vote, and you're out - you have to smash the decoder ring and turn in your special hat. And you cannot use the handshake anymore, either......

John D.

I'll probably be ostracized for spilling the beans

You have violated the code of Omerta; tonight you sleep with the fishes. :mad:

And you cannot use the handshake anymore, either......

John D.

But that's because we found out what you've been using it for while your wife was out of town. :eek:

Some of us are just born with the tinker's perversion. I used to build scale models before I started this. It's the same satisfaction of creating something with your hands, but at least the bikes are useful once they're finished. I know full well none of my bikes will make a collector swoon, but they didn't cost me a lot, and give me a lot of riding pleasure for a lot less than I'd have paid for new bikes. If I do it right, I'll gradually edge my way up to more exclusive (and expensive) rides.

Haha, I build 1/24 scale cars! I'm half-finished with 2 models, and have a half dozen still unopened in their boxes. The problem is I buy faster than I can build. I'm trying very hard to stop myself from buying that new Carrera GT...


Anyways, back to bikes.

Maybe it's just me. I can understand the restoration of classic road bikes, golden-age cruisers, and the personal bike stored in the attic, but what is the attraction to restoring iffy, middle-to-low-end consumer-line bikes from the 80s? I don't mean to be insulting, as the poster has done an admirable job cleaning up the Miyata, but it's not exactly a honey bike. Any insight here?


You have to understand my position: I wanted to get into road cycling because I wanted to exercise. I'd ridden my crappy department-store Huffy mountain bike for 2 months and I was sick of it. So, I decided to get a lighter, faster road bike. My cyclist friend took me to a few shops in the area and shocked me with the prices of low-end bikes. I would need at least $600 to get into this sport, and that's not including all the accessories and apparel I'd need.

With every bike we saw, he'd point out the compromises and shortcomings, and I realized that the "best bang for the buck" came in the $1000+ range. So I decided to get something used, ride that for a while, and possibly jump to something high-end in the future.

So I got a $50 bike, and spent another $30 for tape, tires, and cables. I don't feel like I wasted my time or money, because now I have an extremely fast (to me), light, and cheap bike to ride. Added bonuses are that I won't care if I drop or scratch it and it won't attract thieves.

The best thing, though, is a feeling that I've "revived" something that laid dead in someone's garage. Now that may sound corny, but that's how I feel everytime I ride my bike.

I think this is the best possible way to get into cycling, mainly because of the low initial investment. I feel sad for people feel put off by the steep prices and end up not participating in this very fun and enjoyable activity. I know I was also put off, and was about to give up on road cycling until I read about old bikes.

I liked fixing up this bike so much that I think I might never buy a new bike. I'll just build up my skills and knowledge on these "low-end consumer bikes" until I gain enough proficiency to confidently tackle The Dream Bike. Now, I don't know what it is yet, but I'll find out soon.

You have violated the code of Omerta; tonight you sleep with the fishes. :mad:

And all this time I thought it was the code of Ofmega. :eek: Dang!

btw - I've never caught any of my goldfish asleep. I think you're making that part up.

I liked fixing up this bike so much that I think I might never buy a new bike.


Every time I think about buying a new bike, I stumble across another Trek, Miyata, Mondia, or Peugeot that reels me back into the old stuff (OK, maybe not Peugeot :) )

The last Bike I bought new was my Miyata, in 1988.

John D.

I bought a Miyata 100 @1986. Solid bike. Never had any problems with it. Used it mostly for commuting. as well as week-long tour, though I also had a Specialized Allez for fast rides.
I sold my Miyata a couple years ago, but my husband still has his.

I had an early 80s 110 - an excellent bang per buck bike. I think you did just fine. I really miss mine, put a LOT of miles on it!!!

Enjoy and ride safe. :)

I think this is the best possible way to get into cycling, mainly because of the low initial investment. I feel sad for people feel put off by the steep prices and end up not participating in this very fun and enjoyable activity. I know I was also put off, and was about to give up on road cycling until I read about old bikes.

I liked fixing up this bike so much that I think I might never buy a new bike. I'll just build up my skills and knowledge on these "low-end consumer bikes" until I gain enough proficiency to confidently tackle The Dream Bike. Now, I don't know what it is yet, but I'll find out soon.

That's how I feel about cycling. I've got less than $150 into my old Peugot that I bought while I decided which new bike I should buy. Now I just don't see a good reason to plunk down that >$1000 for a new ride.

I know this thread is a few months old, but I have to put in my two cents. Upon passing a local garage sale I found a blue One Hundred (just like the one pictured) which was amazingly my size. I bought the bike for $33, all the money I had on me, and figured, hey I can replace the punctured tires/tubes and rusty chain. Well upon getting it home and reinspecting, the tires and tubes look original 1980's, in good shape and pumped up nicely to 100psi. The chain and rear derailleur are old and need replacing but that didn't stop me from riding up and down the block for a few minutes. The brakes are top notch and the derailleurs are Shimano SIS (not sure of the grouppo) while the brakes are also Shimano. The rear gears look to be six-speed Suntour. The frame has a bunch of scratches but looks ok to me seeing as I'm broke at the moment. The handlebars have the cheap foamy material on them and the wheels seem true. Seat looks cheap and was "made in italy"

All in all I'm really happy with this purchase and it's absolutely faster than my comfort bike. This bike may not be the best but I'm willing to drop some bucks into putting a good rear derailleur on and putting a few thousand miles on it.

Cheers, Alan

Geezzz, I wish I stumbled onto this thread earlier!
Zorro sums things up nicely: Of the bikes I ride, the old Atalia was bought new in '74 or so and has been ridden on and off (and upgraded several times) ever since.
A Raleigh Super Grand Prix came from a church tag sale for $25. A Miyata 312 was rescued from the dumpster. All of these bikes have given me countless hours of wrench time and God knows how many miles. And I'm still at it. After the demise of the 312, I bought a 512 on the 'Bay that is now in little bitty pieces .
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(spring is comming...)

I love to put lipstick on a pig (as they say). Dress it up. Makes folks scratch their heads! To me, it's like honoring an old, trusty steed from a by-gone era -- that perhaps wasn't as "good as the others" in its day.

Many of us may remember a day when we too felt not as good as the others at some point in our younger years -- so perhaps this is reflected in what we do with these rides.

I've been known to re-dress an old, disregarded "ordinary" frame with top-of-the-line components . . . taking it from ordinary, to extraordinary. Even by today's standards.

Case in point: I include a picture of my latest project: a Cignal Road Series re-dressed with Campy throughout (see attached). What is a Cignal Road Series? Good Question. Do a google search and see what you come up with throughout the web. Zip. It's a rare bird indeed.

I love to put lipstick on a pig (as they say). Dress it up. Makes folks scratch their heads! To me, it's like honoring an old, trusty steed from a by-gone era -- that perhaps wasn't as "good as the others" in its day...

...Case in point: I include a picture of my latest project: a Cignal Road Series re-dressed with Campy throughout (see attached). What is a Cignal Road Series? Good Question. Do a google search and see what you come up with throughout the web. Zip. It's a rare bird indeed.

Nice finished product. As are all of the bikes in this thread. I guess I'm too young to say I'm going the 'getting back the bike I wanted/had as a youth' route, so I guess I fall best under the tinkering with what ever I have at hand category. And I've smacked lipstick on a couple 80's pigs so far. My Barracuda Mk. I started out as a low end Centurion and now has a Shimano Golden Arrow group and custom paint, before that was the Schwinn with 7speed 105 gear. :)

Nice finished product. As are all of the bikes in this thread. I guess I'm too young to say I'm going the 'getting back the bike I wanted/had as a youth' route, so I guess I fall best under the tinkering with what ever I have at hand category. And I've smacked lipstick on a couple 80's pigs so far. My Barracuda Mk. I started out as a low end Centurion and now has a Shimano Golden Arrow group and custom paint, before that was the Schwinn with 7speed 105 gear. :)

That's the spirit!

edited to say that I've just spent WAY too much time at your web site. Beautiful work -- especially the repainting of the frame. Top notch. I hope to be doing the same with a Peugeot this spring.

Does anyone know what years the Miyata 100 was produced? Internet searches haven't yielded much. Thank you!

Nice finished product. As are all of the bikes in this thread. I guess I'm too young to say I'm going the 'getting back the bike I wanted/had as a youth' route, so I guess I fall best under the tinkering with what ever I have at hand category. And I've smacked lipstick on a couple 80's pigs so far. My Barracuda Mk. I started out as a low end Centurion and now has a Shimano Golden Arrow group and custom paint, before that was the Schwinn with 7speed 105 gear. :)

Yeah, I can't say I'm old enough either (but I am cranky, how's that?). I really like it, though, pulling the bikes apart and putting them back together - like one guy's sig on here says, am I fixing the bike to ride it or riding the bike to fix it? Not sure. I may be taking delivery of a Fuji Finest at some point, depends on his price - should sit nicely next to my UO-8. If not, there'll be another steel frame at some point in my life, I'm sure I'll have a friend who wants to come on a ride with me :D

Yeah, I can't say I'm old enough either (but I am cranky, how's that?). I really like it, though, pulling the bikes apart and putting them back together - like one guy's sig on here says, am I fixing the bike to ride it or riding the bike to fix it? Not sure. I may be taking delivery of a Fuji Finest at some point, depends on his price - should sit nicely next to my UO-8. If not, there'll be another steel frame at some point in my life, I'm sure I'll have a friend who wants to come on a ride with me :D

What year/color Finest? I love my 1973. Once you get it on the road, the U0-8 will be the bike that sits waiting for a friend to come and ride it. ;)