Mountain Biking - Are there better V brakes than others?

Are there categories of V brakes? What do you look for in buying v brakes? Are they all the same? Do some stop better? what are the best V brakes?

XTR are the best I've used, higher end Avids are pretty decent. Basically you want the stiffest arm possible, without excess weight.

what are the best V brakes?

1. Paul Motolite Z

2. Avid Single Digit Ultimate

3. XTR

In that order.

XTR are the best I've used, higher end Avids are pretty decent. Basically you want the stiffest arm possible, without excess weight.

Avid Arch Rivals are better than XT. They don't squeal as much as the first few generations of XT. Not sure if they are better than XTR but they have to be a lot cheaper.

Squealing is all about the pads, or the angle of the pads... I don't think it would be a product of a particular brake arm.

1. Paul Motolite Z

2. Avid Single Digit Ultimate

3. XTR

In that order.
what the price diffrence on these?

and weight?

Squealing is all about the pads, or the angle of the pads... I don't think it would be a product of a particular brake arm.

The original XT had very loose pivots that allowed the pad to lift off and chatter no matter how you adjusted the pad. They beefed them up later but the early ones squealed like a stuck pig ever time you used them. Get really annoying on a 7 mile downhill. Corner...squeal. Too fast...squeal. Stop...squeal. My friends made me ride 3 miles behind them and they said they could still hear the stupid things.

They are all ridiculously expensive and light as hell.

Try a search engine for specifics on weight and price

Yes, some are better than others. High end Shimano brakes have a parallel push mechanism, which does exactly what it says. Cheaper V brakes move in an arc as you pull on the lever, and so the pad doesn't hit the rim 100% straight on.
As seely said, get as rigid as possible calipers and levers. High end Avids and Shimanos are the place to look. And don't forget the cables and pads. A high quality cable like the mountain bike Odyssey linear slick cable, and some nice pads will really improove the braking power, and are relatively cheap.

So if i went XTR i should get the xtr cable?

So if i went XTR i should get the xtr cable?
The big deal with the XTR cable is that it's a Teflon coated cable. Save a buck or two and get the generic teflon coated cables

Avoid any with pivots. Really, honest, they're not necessary. They add complication, potentially slop, and are an extra service point.

I'd take a pair of Avid Single Digits any day over their Arch series or Shimano's Parallel Push.

The fancy pivots square the pads to the rim, but they can't redirect braking force, which still is aligned as an arc around the pivot. For all intents, the braking force is "square enough" to the rim and pretty much similar between all the various brakes.

But the deal is, these cartridge pads most brakes use are so slim, there isn't enough material on them to worry about the pads wearing at an angle. The aren't the big honking brake pads of old (which would get a little skewed over time).

Avid's SD5 and SD7 brakes are both about the best I've used, compared to various Shimano, Tektro and Cane Creek V's over the years.

In the 4 plus years I've owned my Arch 40's I've never experienced this "slop" you speak of.

Did someone say SD7? :D

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/92xt.JPG

http://www.photohost.org/gallery/data/500/92sd7f2.JPG

the Single digit brakes i am using right now wont stay centered for crap. Khuon reported that the Arch rival stay centered much better, they weigh a little more but im thinking its worth it

In the 4 plus years I've owned my Arch 40's I've never experienced this "slop" you speak of.

Ahh, but I said "potential slop".

I in fact rode a set of Arch Rival 50's for a season, and they were much more solid than the Shimano XT V's they replaced. My hangup with the Arch brakes was that the arch got in the way of the tire tread when spreading the arms wide enough to remove a wheel, and would clog with mud. In the end, they prooved to be just a little more hassle than was necessary (they were, however, quiet and fairly solid while I owned them).

the Single digit brakes i am using right now wont stay centered for crap. Khuon reported that the Arch rival stay centered much better, they weigh a little more but im thinking its worth it

I'm having the same prob. with my SD's... I hesitate to recommend them to anyone for this reason.

the Single digit brakes i am using right now wont stay centered for crap. Khuon reported that the Arch rival stay centered much better, they weigh a little more but im thinking its worth it

The arch on the Arch rivals doesn't do anything to help keep the brakes centered. The spring mechanisim is similar to what you find on the Single Digit series. All the arch is there for is the pads, nothing else.

FWIW, I've had SD5, SD7 and SDTi brake arms on various bikes at various times and never had a centering issue. But something I've observed is that in setup (regardless of brand/model), many folks tend to center their brakes by increasing tension on the side that is too close (and working back and forth). Like an over-tensioned wheel build, this causes each twist of the tension adjust screw that much more sensitive, leading to finiky brakes (not to mention higher than necessary lever resistance).

I like working the opposite approach, loosening the far side, keeping lever force low, and making centering less sensitive.

But something I've observed is that in setup (regardless of brand/model), many folks tend to center their brakes by increasing tension on the side that is too close (and working back and forth). Like an over-tensioned wheel build, this causes each twist of the tension adjust screw that much more sensitive, leading to finiky brakes (not to mention higher than necessary lever resistance).

I like working the opposite approach, loosening the far side, keeping lever force low, and making centering less sensitive.

Me too. Seems to work better,(for me) if I get too loose =I unhinge the spring arms, tighten the scews, put the spring arm back on and start over. I don't RUN the springs low tension, I back the screws out carefully to keep the highest recoil I can.

It doesn't matter, they won't stay centered. They will be perfectly centered, and all the sudden "snap" to a off center position, drastically different from the centered position.

It doesn't matter, they won't stay centered. They will be perfectly centered, and all the sudden "snap" to a off center position, drastically different from the centered position.
I've never encountered this with an Avid V brake and I've handled pretty much the whole line.

The only reason that I wouldn't spend a lot of money of 'v-Brakes' is that I just hate them. I would prefer getting a pair of cheap hayes disks,then going to v-brakes.
Why, you ask? AS soon as your wheel goes out of true , thats it. Gotta re-adjust the pads so they will stop rubbing. I also find V's loose power a lot quiker, since there more open up to water and dirt.

Of course in your case, I say dont spend too much on V's, save up some money for decent disks.

Of course in your case, I say dont spend too much on V's, save up some money for decent disks.
I say save up for a decent bike instead of polishing this turd. You can say you're going to put the parts on a new frame, but by then the parts will be "used" and you'll want the next thing

Well I was assuming he had a compatible fork and wheel. I agree, upgrading sometimes is just not worth it...especially when its a fork.

Well I was assuming he had a compatible fork and wheel. I agree, upgrading sometimes is just not worth it...especially when its a fork.
We're talking about a Y-26 here. Draw your own conclusions. I know I wouldn't have sunk the money he has into it. To each their own I guess

well he can just replace each part with a nice component and then be left with just the frame. Then replace the frame and there you go, a new bike.
THe SD brakes have great stopping power, and very minimal arm flex and all. If you dont mind adjusting them 5 or 6 times a day, they are nice. I contacted SRAM and they said "take it to a shop". Rev. Chuck gave a good piece of advice for handling the issue and it seems to help a bit

Hey Raiyn how much money do you think i have sunk into my bike? I have bought one part.

Can i get your phone number? I want to call you everytime i think about spending my money, just in case you dont approve. Thanks.

I have bought one part.


You have only bought one part??

from your posts it sounds like you got rear shock, front fork, pedals,and wheels, and are considering getting new v brakes.


I would agree with some comments here to some extent. I wouldn't 'waste' my money on top of the line linear pull brakes unless you were super weight conscious and xc racing freak.

Middle of the road linear pull brakes should be better than what came on your y26. The thing about all brakes is, it's ALL about the setup. The brakes on your bike might be fine but they are just a bit out of adjustment, yaknowhatImean?

yeah i have only bought the rear shock, totally necesarry in my opinion. The rest where things i wanted to know. I have thought about everything you mentioned above, but i asked more for knowledge than anything else. I want to be completely sure about all the parts i want. Im probably going to get the frame first. They dont sell the fuel frames, they only sell the fuel 100. 750 bucks is a little out my range so ill wait for a a good frame on ebay. You guys have sure helped me a lot. Thats for sure. Trek Y26 is not that bad!

I've never encountered this with an Avid V brake and I've handled pretty much the whole line.

Yeah, I never had it before I got my Stumpjumper, but I'm finding I'm not the only one with this problem. Can't figure it out for the life of me. The screws aren't backing out or anything... I'm stumped.

Hs 33's!

the Single digit brakes i am using right now wont stay centered for crap. Khuon reported that the Arch rival stay centered much better, they weigh a little more but im thinking its worth it
same with mine they drove me nuts.

My Paul Motolite are far more powerful then the avid sd7's were I used the same pads and pad holders's from the asd7's and they have far mroe stopping power. Plus they are far easier to setup and adjust. you don't have to try to angle the pads to get the tow in.

I'm actually fairly impressed with the deore LX V-brakes-good bang for the buck if you don't mind a little extra weight. Replace the noodle with a roller, and the pads with some kool stop salmons-and you've got some serious stopping power and good modulation.

Hey Raiyn how much money do you think i have sunk into my bike? I have bought one part.

Can i get your phone number? I want to call you everytime i think about spending my money, just in case you dont approve. Thanks.
Too much.

Sure you want my phone number? It's (202)282-8000 ask for my secretary Ann Tracks don't let my support people weed you out be sure to get ahold of her and she'll put you through to the man in charge.

(..)Replace the noodle with a roller(..)


is this roller something like the rollamajig? or something else entirely? i believe the noodles on my brakes cause too much friction.. :( --> some kind of roller-mechanism sounds nice!

The one I'm familiar with is called the Travel Agent, and can be used either to convert older short-pull cantilever levers to use with V brakes, or be used as a straight pulley to replace the noodle.

It's similar to the Roll-a-majig, but made of metal (not plastics), which I suppose is a necessity given the high forces brake cable is subject to.

yeah i have only bought the rear shock, totally necesarry in my opinion. The rest where things i wanted to know. I have thought about everything you mentioned above, but i asked more for knowledge than anything else. I want to be completely sure about all the parts i want. Im probably going to get the frame first. They dont sell the fuel frames, they only sell the fuel 100. 750 bucks is a little out my range so ill wait for a a good frame on ebay. You guys have sure helped me a lot. Thats for sure. Trek Y26 is not that bad!

Look on ebay from either HongKong Bike shop or isupplieru. THese two sellers usually have nice Specialized or Giant frames going at a very good price.

They ship worldwide as well!!

Ming

im all about Avid Singledigit Sevens, but, if money allows, go with disk

My Paul Motolite are far more powerful then the avid sd7's were I used the same pads and pad holders's from the asd7's and they have far mroe stopping power. Plus they are far easier to setup and adjust. you don't have to try to angle the pads to get the tow in.
What makes the motolites so much better? These things are really expensive and i cant figure out why

They are spendy but they are made in the us. Paul does all the work on them they are all machined parts no casting. I think they are pretty light for v brakes. But what makes them great is first the power. They have a lot more power then any other brake I have used. Second they are far easier to adjust then any other brake. You have a bar to mount the pad on you get it flat to the wheel and make sure the ends are not too high. Then any height or tow in you just adjust the pad holder.
So you don’t have to try to get the pad lined up right. I found I could set the pads far faster then anything else. I found also I don’t need any tow in if I have it then I get squeal. So that makes them even faster. Then you have a reversible noodle. Any brake that has this feature is never under 70.00 also the quick release is so much better it’s pathetic. Far easier to release and hook up then any normal noodle.
They have far better springs flat wound so they have more power. You adjust spring tension by adjusting the bold head in front then they stay where you put them. Plus they have a far lighter feel to them I had them set for hardly any spring tension at all and loved the feel of them.
I got mine for 125 for both sets on eBay I really lucked out. They always go close to retail. But I wish they were not so spendy but that’s what it costs to be made in the US sometimes.

is this roller something like the rollamajig? or something else entirely? i believe the noodles on my brakes cause too much friction.. :( --> some kind of roller-mechanism sounds nice!

The one I'm familiar with is called the Travel Agent, and can be used either to convert older short-pull cantilever levers to use with V brakes, or be used as a straight pulley to replace the noodle.

It's similar to the Roll-a-majig, but made of metal (not plastics), which I suppose is a necessity given the high forces brake cable is subject to.
It's what I use on my commuter bike. It's a weight weenies nightmare, but man does it make things smooth. Even before I switched to teflon housing and cables I noticed how much better it was than the old noodle.
http://img264.echo.cx/img264/9555/travelagent0br.jpg
Ignore the arrows and text I actually made that for another discussion and I'm too lazy to make a new one seeing as how it's 4AM

Is Travel Agent the only brand that makes these? I have seen similar roller units under a different brand name but I'm wondering if they're really all from the same manufacturer. I've been considering replacing the noodle on my rear brake because my leg keeps rubbing up against it. I'd probably replace both front as well just to make the brake smoother.

Is Travel Agent the only brand that makes these? I have seen similar roller units under a different brand name but I'm wondering if they're really all from the same manufacturer. I've been considering replacing the noodle on my rear brake because my leg keeps rubbing up against it. I'd probably replace both front as well just to make the brake smoother.
Actually they're produced by QBP. They're the ones I use and suggest
http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=9486
There is also this version http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=9487
but I've never found a need for an additional adjustment point on my setup. It would be advisable for those seeking to use them with road levers though. Get the silver ones as the finish on the black ones doesn't last as well from what I've seen

What makes the motolites so much better? These things are really expensive and i cant figure out why

Perhaps a touch OT, but didn't Paul invent the V-Brake? They were the first I ever saw. At least a couple of years before Shimano. I remember reading a brake review "shoot-out" when they first came out and the review said something along the lines of "these things are totally different but work amazingly well and are light because you do away with the cable hanger"........They would have won the shoot-out but you could only use Paul's levers with them and at the time most Shimano stuff had the lever and shifters integrated.