Bicycle Mechanics - Bottom Bracket Overhaul.

I have been told that Dura-Ace BB's need to be overhauld every 1000 - 1500 miles. Is this true? How hard is it to overhaul a BB, and what tools do i need?

Would there be any advantage to droping down to a Ultrega BB? I'd rather not overhaul my BB every other month... but maybe its something i need to live with.

Joe;
This big boy (210-260) put over 15,000mi on an older cartiage durace BB. NO PROBLEMS. I've got 4,500 on a new Ultegra BB, NO PROBLEMS.
My maintenance schedule is to dry lube my chain when I air the tires, Wash my gloves and sweat band once a month, change socks when momma complains.

How do i tell if my BB is a cup-and-cone or cartiage style? Its a '98 or 99 BB.

Generally cartridge style BB cups thread into the BB tube and have a recessed end into which a special splined BB tool is inserted for removal.

A bearing and cone type BB will have a large hex shaped or knurled nut encircling the spindle, this nut is used to set the cone / bearing clearance. Around this nut is a larger rounded nut with a knurled or serated edge that abuts the BB housing to lock the adjusting (inner) nut in place once the proper clearance has been achieved. This style appears to be flush with or protrude out from the BB tube as opposed to being recessed into it like cartridge types.

Pray you have a cartridge type and replace it if worn out IMO, but then I've never been able to get cone and bearing anything adjusted properly , let alone get them to stay adjusted.

Joe, check out this page.
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQadjbb.shtml

If your bike is 9 speed, and the BB is original to the bike, it has loose bearings in retainers and is NOT a cartrige type.,even though outwardly it looks like one.The 9 speed DA BB are considered by many to be a pain in the A$$..They need maintenance and can be difficult to adjust. The advantage to the ultegra is that it's a cartridge unit you put in and don't worry about till its time to replace it.Downside is it weighs 49 grams more than the DA. I believe the 8 DA BB un 91/92 was a regular cartridge unit.

Shall i swap it out for a ultegra cartridge unit? Im not worried about 49grams!

Joe,
The Shimano cartridge bb's are not overhauled. They are inexpensive and intended to just be replaced. Most people seem to consider the Ultegra version more durable than the Dura Ace. That is what I would probably go with. The cartridge bb's are easy. You just screw 'em in; not lockrings, no adjustment. NOTE: They do NOT need to be screwed in flush with the bb shell. 2-3 mm of threads may stick out. There was a post a couple of months ago by someone who ruined one trying to get it in flush. Just screw it in good and tight, but you don't need to force it.

I've overhauled the cup and cone 105 bb on my Bianchi a couple of times and figured I'd just keep it rolling as long as I could. Since I put cartridge bb's on my other two bikes I've decided it's just way too easy. Next time the c and c may be "bye bye". As much as I enjoy messing with my bikes (seriously) I just don't have time to fool with some things.
Regards,
Raymond

I have converted both boys' mountain bikes to cartridge BBs, and I have a Campagnolo cartridge BB and Chorus crankset waiting for the Bianchi. Although I enjoy working on bikes, I simply do not have time to accomplish everything I would like to.

What a pain, this was my one concern when purchasing my bike, I have heard about DA BB problems for quite some time. I once remember hearing that the pro's have them replaced after every race.

Hey..rainmanp....on cartridge BB the drive side(the one with the flange) DOES NEED TO BE FLUSH and tight against the BB shell. That's the only way you get it tight!!The lock ring is the one that needs to be tight but does not need to be flush, as it bears against the end of the cartridge. the lockring is tightened after the cartridge is installed and tightened. There are some cheap shimano units that have the flange on the nondrive side, but it presents no installation hassle as the orientation is marked on the cartridge....regards pokey.

DA BB's are fragile, at best. They also cost too d@mn much.
I have an older-style DA BB on the fixie I'm building, but other than that, I'd go with an Ultegra BB. DA just isn't worth it.

Ultegra BB has been orderd. Also purchased two BB wrenches and a spanner. I think i can do it myself :)

Originally posted by Joe Gardner
Ultegra BB has been orderd. Also purchased two BB wrenches and a spanner. I think i can do it myself :)

You will need a crank puller, if you don't have one already. And, yes you can do it yourself. If the spindles are square, don't grease. If the spindles are splined, grease. Grease bb threads liberally and make sure you don't strip the threads by turning the wrong way.

I suggest Zinn's book, $20. My success ration is much higher if I read about it first.

Joe,

BTW do you live anywhere near the MTC?

Thanks, I have Zinn's book somewhere, I’ll pull it out before I start.

I live in Highland, about 20 miles from the MTC (Provo). I used to drive for a same day MTC courier, delivered cookies there every day for 5 years :)

Originally posted by Joe Gardner
I used to drive for a same day MTC courier, delivered cookies there every day for 5 years :)

I never got cookies when I did my 2 mos. in Provo! Went to Sacramento for the balance of my 2 years.

Originally posted by WoodyUpstate
If the spindles are square, don't grease.

http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8f.11.html

GREAT link bikerider!!

I should also post the index:

http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/index.html

and

http://yarchive.net/bike/index.html