Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Help with road-to-fixed hub conversion.

A silly question: which way to thread the cog on?
If a cog is like this =| which way is towards the wheel.
More silly questions: do all road hubs have the same amount of thread?
I've got a road rear with campy hub, and the only way BB lockring gets there is if

--
V
^
H|= Cog
V
^
--

the teeth side of the cog is closest to the wheel. Doesn't feel right though.

Are there any detailed descriptions of the conversion with pictures.

Typically you wouldn't use a road rim with a fixed cog, since the lockring doesn't really do you any good. The cog would thread on in the same direction as the wheel turns - towards the front of the bike...

Keep in mind that what you're asking about is commonly refered to as a 'Suicide Hub'

Teeth side should be out, so the lock ring engages on the cog... if you had a proper hub, that is.

You better read this: rear hub (http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/wheels/)

A silly question: which way to thread the cog on?
If a cog is like this =| which way is towards the wheel.
More silly questions: do all road hubs have the same amount of thread?
I've got a road rear with campy hub, and the only way BB lockring gets there is if

Rim --
Spokes V
^
Hub H|= Cog
^
V
--

the teeth side of the cog is closest to the wheel. Doesn't feel right though.

Are there any detailed descriptions of the conversion with pictures.

I don't have any pictures, but following your diagram--

Spokes
/\
HUB=II(cog)

Namely, the cog stamp (16t, etc.) should be facing away from the hub.

I haven't had any problems, but some say their hubs are too short to fit a lockring. I don't know what do do then--but if it fits one way, shouldn't it fit the other too?

PS on the safety of this--do a forum search and see how many people have done this for decades with no problems. Just use loctite. Use red if you're paranoid.

I read an article once that illustrated a technique for using a track cog without a lock ring. Using the chain around the BB and some magic to hold the cog, and the rim as a lever you can crank it down with more torque than you would ever exert on it riding so it never comes loose. I'm not going to be the first person I know to try it, but it sounds moderately reasonable.

Oh. here's the thread: (damn, looks pretty crabby)

http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-106101

and here's the article:

http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

That method is great for getting cogs on and off, but it is really meant for the track.

It's not for street use...

I think the original reasoning was that if you did unthread the cog while backpedaling/skidding on the track, it meant that you weren't going to bind up the chain and would still be able to control where you were moving (IE avoiding a crash in front of you) But I can't find that post...

I don't have any pictures, but following your diagram--

Spokes
/\
HUB=II(cog)

Namely, the cog stamp (16t, etc.) should be facing away from the hub.
This is what I do as well. I have like one thread left for my BB lockring, but I get it on. I just use grease and it holds up fine. I'd have to disagree on the BB lockring having no effect. The force on the cog to unscrew is counter-clockwise on the freewheel, but the force from the cog on the BB lockring will mostly be perpendicular/out from the freewheel. Does that make any sense? I experienced this first hand, when I stupidly tried to remove my cog using the reverse Italian method but forgot to take the lockring off. I nearly stripped my hub before realizing it. I simply thought my cog was stuck or something.

Looks like the cog would have to be milled down on the shoulder side.

Out of curiosity, how many people were injured/killed due to "suicide wheel"?