Road Cycling - Sell or Swap?

Here's my question?

I currently have a vintage Guerciotti steel frame with campy 9 speed veloce group, mavic reflex wheels with campy hubs,and a sella italia prolink saddle. I'm looking to either buy Cannondale CAAD5 frame with the slice fork for $600.00 and move all the components over or just sell the current setup and buy something new for about $1,500.00.

What should I do?

I currently have a vintage Guerciotti steel frame with campy
And the problem is?
seriously tho, I don't think a new cannondale is gonna ride
any better than a "classic" italian frame.
(and I bet the other retrogrouch types here would
agree with me). I would venture to say that the
steel will handle better, and be easier on less than
perfect roads. Unless your seriously racing I don't
think its gonna make alot of difference.
Personally (and hey, this is all personal ain't it?)
I'd keep the Gueciotti, and build the C'dale as a
second complete ride.

Marty

Have you considered how much of yer stuff ain't gonna switch over?

Ok, I'll get off the retrogrouch soapbox.
Further to what Pokey said,
you may find that alot of the Guericotti is italian
thread and the C'dale won't be.
just a thought.

Marty

I'm thinking I have to get a new BB and Headset/Stem. Other than that what can I not transfer? The deraillers, crank, wheels and seat post shouldn't be a problem, right?

I ain't no retrogrouch, byt if you have 9-speed on a "vintage" Guerciotti, then it can't really be all that vintage unless you had the rear dropouts respaced. It's, what? 10 years old? I'd stick with the Guerciotti.

Having said that, the new components you'll probably need are...

BB, headset, stem, cables...

What size id the Guerciotti and what do you plan to do with it?

They should be ok.

Just curious, why do you want to go with the caad5?

Marty

Velo,

It's a 56CM. It has lots of chips and is in need of a paint job. Unfortunatly the guy who owned it before me drilled holes on the top tube to run the rear brake cable through. The dropouts are original. You have to spread them just a bit in order for the wheel to slide in smoothly, but has no affect on performance.

Lotek,

The reason for the CAAD5 is the price to weight combination seems right especially with the fork. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.


But I guess what I'm really asking, with the equipment listed on the Cannondale frame could I get something better for $1,500.00

Thanks for all your advise.

seatpost may or may not transfer.cdale uses a 27.2mm. front derailer may not. Cdale usea a 11/4" clamp on the seattube. if yours is a 11/8" clamp,it's a no go. if yours is a braze on,you can use an adapter.

the guy who owned it before me drilled holes on the top tube
He did this himself? what is he, a candidate for a darwin award?

Some 80's and 90's frames had internal cable routing.
could this possibly be the case with your frame?
If so a good paint job will run about 250USD and will
give new life to your frame. To have the frame
coldset by LBS to accept 10 speed (130mm spacing)
should cost about $25 - $30.

If previous owner did infact drill top tube I would suggest
that you don't ride it, nor would I suggest selling the
frame.

Check on e-bay, for ideas about how much
frames are selling for.

marty

Pokey,

The FD is a braze on and the seat post is 27.2 so I will save money on that.

Lotek,

Yes, I think the guy was an idiot and this is another reason I want to change frames. I'm pretty happy with the veloce stuff and 9sp is more than enough in the flat lands of Miami.

Albert

He did this himself? what is he, a candidate for a darwin award?

Some 80's and 90's frames had internal cable routing.
could this possibly be the case with your frame?
If so a good paint job will run about 250USD and will
give new life to your frame. To have the frame
coldset by LBS to accept 10 speed (130mm spacing)
should cost about $25 - $30.

If previous owner did infact drill top tube I would suggest
that you don't ride it, nor would I suggest selling the
frame.

Er... I'm resurrecting this old thread. Why is it such a bad idea to drill a top tube yourself? I have an 80s cromoly steel frame that I was considering doing this on. It's hefty and low-end, so I'd guess the tubing is not butted. I have a 1990 Trek aluminum bike with factory internal cable routing and I like the look.

Is there a reason why home made internal routing would be a bad idea? I'm not trying to disagree with anyone, I'd just like to know if there's a specific reason why it would be dangerous to drill two holes in a lugged steel top tube.

the guy who owned it before me drilled holes on the top tube

He did this himself? what is he, a candidate for a darwin award?

...

...

Hehe, I did read the whole thread already! Honestly though, why is it so bad to drill two holes in the top tube? What do they know at the bike factory that I don't?

Take a piece of paper roll it into a cylinder, note crushing strength (end to end). Take a hole puncher and punch a hole in the middle, repeat test.

Take a piece of paper roll it into a cylinder, note crushing strength (end to end). Take a hole puncher and punch a hole in the middle, repeat test.The toptube isn't a piece of paper and it isn't highly stressed. Whether or not it's a particularly bad or not so bad an idea depends on the material and it's thickness.

Hehe, I did read the whole thread already! Honestly though, why is it so bad to drill two holes in the top tube? What do they know at the bike factory that I don't? With an old thick walled steel tube it's less of an issue.Even if it wasn't an issue the hassle of trying to thread a piece of casing thru it would be.It just ain't worth it. AFWIW, the factory knows more than you and the holes are typically renforced, so they won't tend to grow.

What if you braze a washer over the hole, to reinforce it? That would probably make it stronger.

No reinforcement... hassle to thread... lack of motivation to win a Darwin Award... hmm... okay, I'm going to forget about it.