Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Fixed gear ratios and front brake questions.

So I just bought my first fixed gear, a Mercier Kilo TT. It comes with 48x16 gearing. Will this be a fairly average ratio? I live in an area where my main commute is usually no longer than a few miles, but it has gradual grades and then a few steep sections. What ratio would be ideal?

On to front brakes: My new bike doesn't have any brakes and I'll be learning to ride fixed. I would like to put a front brake on, but I just spent most of my money, any ideas on what type/brand to buy? I would like decent quality, but for the cheapest possible......is that even possible?

thanks

re used brakes: check out an LBS that sells used bikes and ask them if they sell used parts, you can probably get a used brake lever and caliper for under $12, then blow $5 on cables + housing...bring your bike in so they can find a brake with the right reach.

alternately you may be able to repurpose an old MTB or BMX lever, or find one for cheap on ebay. Used parts are the way to go though.

Cheap brakes work just as well as the expensive ones. I vote for the used brake set up too.

Cheap brakes work just as well as the expensive ones. I vote for the used brake set up too.
Not to mention that you'll probably take them off in a couple days when you realize you never use them anyway. No need to spend alot of money.

If he does take off the brake, I should like to point out, once again, that 48x16 is a horrible combination if he plans on doing any skidding.

I just started with 42x18 <<Edit - I ordered an 18, but was sent a 16. I just figured that out yesterday - no wonder it seems fast enough, it's virtually the same ratio I've been SS'ing for a year>>and found it fast enough for fun, 1 hr long rides with 90% flat and a few hills. I could climb anything with it, and it's controllable on steep decents. You need to remember to apply back pressure early to stay in the "green zone" as you begin descending the hill. It's easier to stay in control of the pedals BEFORE they begin to spin out, rather than trying to get the genie back into the bottle.

word to the "green zone." 44x15 ain't bad, but I can only muster short skids (perfectly functional for stopping, but wouldn't win one of those silly skidding competitions). Long bullrons help in the leverage department.

I bought an inline lever set and cheapest road brake from nashbar (actually rebranded Tektro parts) and it's served me fine. I usually go days at a time without using the brake, and then it's only for emergency situations-- car cuts me off, ped gets uppity, etc.

48/16 is fine, with good technique you can skid all over if you want to, I run a 50/16,52/17,and 52/16 on mine and I dont have any problems

i got a new shimano tiagra brake and i'm really impressed with the quality. it was maybe 30$?..i can't remember. i think i ordered it from glorycycles.com.
for me 48x16 is a little steep if you have some hills to tackle. my latest is gonna be 48x17, my other is 42x16.

48/16 is fine, with good technique you can skid all over if you want to, I run a 50/16,52/17,and 52/16 on mine and I dont have any problems

I think the 48x16 comment had to do with skid spots, not gear inches.

The 48x16 on my Mercier was a little steep for me. I dropped to a 48x17 and I'm slowly growing into it.
I bought a Sora front brake only and hooked it to a Tektro cyclocross inline lever. It was inexpensive and effective.
Keep the brake as it is easier on the knees and more effective than skidding.
Craig

I've always thought this is good primer:
http://www.surlybikes.com/spew11.html

i think 48x16 is a little steep too. I say go 44x16 and work your way up if you want.

When I was at Cal Poly for a conference I put a brake on and dropped my gearing to 42x16. I had no problem with any hill up or down. The primary reason I put the brake is that Sacramento is flat, like Kansas flat, I had no real experiance with hills on a fixie.

I would say gear down and find a cheap brake.

i think 48x16 is a little steep too. I say go 44x16 and work your way up if you want.

Once the decision is made to take off the front brake, 48 x 16 is actually quite ideal (except for that giant skid spot which you'll blow through in a month ). then you'll have to go to 49 x 16 to counter.

I started with 38x16 (2.375:1) after having not done anything even closely resembling exercise in 5 years about a month ago. It was pretty easy on me. I just moved to 38x13 (2.92:1) and it absolutely kicked my ass for like a week, but I'm comfortable with it now.

48x16 (3:1) might be a bit steep to start with but you can definitely work up to it, I'm not the picture of great health and I have.

Kaz

After my accident I didn't ride for a month, and when I got back in the bike I switched from 48X16 to 48X18 while I recovered.
I noticed the biggest difference going downhill: with 48X18 I had a lot more control of my downhills.
I presently ride with 47X17 and it gives me a good compromise at about 73".
I don't have as much control going downhill and I miss that.
Anyway, I learned fixed gear riding on 48X16 and, with a front brake, I consider that a good gear ratio.
If I had any thoughts about riding brakeless, I would go with 48X18.

I started with 48x16 (using a brake), mainly because I didn't know any better or worse. I find it to be an ideal gear if you live in a flat area. My worst enemy is wind...

I love my 52/17 setup with no brakes...I started at 52/16 but wanted a little more acceleration so I swapped out the cog when I switched from Miche to Level Components.

52/16 was a little scary with no brakes (which is why I ran them for quite a while), but once I got comfy with the current setup I am fine with no brakes (Although I still feel "naked" on steep descents without brakes)

The 17 Cog gives lots of even wear as far as the skid spots.

ENJOY your first Fixie!!! Now get out there and put some miles on her!

thanks for all your help...everyone

about your brakes... if you get cheap levers/calipers... make sure you get some quality pads like those made by Kool-Stop!

Who are all you people with steeled knees!?

Who are all you people with steeled knees!?

not steel completely but partial. I have a couple of screws holding down a hamstring graft where my ACL used to be. (skating injury years ago).

No doubt. Wait till ya turn 30.....haha

No doubt. Wait till ya turn 30.....haha

Did that a few years back. Still skating, still snowboarding/surfing, and still riding a brakelss track everyday. I wouldn't be able to do the first three without the fourth.

Colinm wrote:

"You need to remember to apply back pressure early to stay in the 'green zone' as you begin descending the hill. It's easier to stay in control of the pedals BEFORE they begin to spin out, rather than trying to get the genie back into the bottle."

Amen.
I often go uphill faster than downhill.

Mouton wrote:

"Who are all you people with steeled knees!?"

And colinm wrote:

"Wait till ya turn 30..."

I will turn 59 next month, and I have learned how to keep my knees happy.
In my humble opinion, almost all bicycle knee issues come from body mechanics and not from high gearing, over use or abuse.
Some people have genetic and trauma issues, and attention to body mechanics can at least help in those areas, too.

My Feldenkrais Physical Therapist and I have talked recently about producing a DVD/Video on knee management for bicyclists.
We think we can resolve the knee problems of the vast majority of riders with a half hour of instruction, with pictures.
I'd like to make it dirt cheap so that anyone and everyone can afford it and enjoy pain-free riding.

If anyone wants to gain a surprising amount of knowledge regarding knees in a 10 minute reading, go here (after following the link, scroll down for the explanatory pictures):

http://www.factotem.org/library/database/Knee-Articles/Knee-anatomy-physiology.shtml

Thanks for the link, Ken! Very helpful info, technical, yet explained in simple terms, with its own glossary.

My dad is about your age, and has been an active user of his knees for his whole life, between being an active enjoyer of and instructor of cycling, rock climbing, ice climbing, backcountry and alpine skiing, technical mountaineering, etc, and his knees are in great shape as well. He attributes a lot of it to exercises that specifically strengthen the muscles around the knees.

When I was young, he taught me to telemark ski (which uses skis like downhill skis and boots, but with more flex in the boot, and a special binding that connects only at the toe, and lets you rotate the foot forward so your sole becomes perfectly perpendicular to the ski. Gives great control on technical descents, but is very demanding on your knees and legs), and we'd do all sorts of knee exercises. He is adamant that part of the reason his knees are still in good shape is because he works on the muscles in that region which help keep the knees strong.

Here is a fun one to try. Kneel on the ground so that one knee is on the ground, and the other knee is in front of you, forming a perfect 90 degree angle to the ground. One foot is out in front of you, planted firmly on the ground, and the other foot (the one attached to the knee that is on the ground), is out behind you, with the toe against the ground. Now, lift the knee off the ground about an inch, so that now both of your knees are making a perfect 90 degree bend, and you are supported only by your foot out front, and the toe behind you. Just stay there. Hold it. How long can you hold it?

You'll feel quite a few muscles in your legs protesting! That is a difficult position to hold, but is good exercise for the muscles. Just rotate legs and try again. My dad could be seen just about anywhere he might be just sitting there in that position, trying to hold it as long as possible. In line at the bank, at the grocery store, while watching TV, etc. He did other exercises too, of course, to keep balanced, but that was one of his favorite, because it gets a lot of muscles, and requires no apparatus, and is low impact.

Ken, I'd be interested in hearing what you and your doctor have to say about knee health. I'd probably buy that DVD, but even if you just made up a pamphlet or something I'd check that out too. Knees are very sensitive, and its worth taking good care of them.

peace,
sam

After my accident I didn't ride for a month, and when I got back in the bike I switched from 48X16 to 48X18 while I recovered.
I noticed the biggest difference going downhill: with 48X18 I had a lot more control of my downhills.
I presently ride with 47X17 and it gives me a good compromise at about 73".
I don't have as much control going downhill and I miss that.
Anyway, I learned fixed gear riding on 48X16 and, with a front brake, I consider that a good gear ratio.
If I had any thoughts about riding brakeless, I would go with 48X18.

Ken-Now I'm totally confused. I was under the impression that the higher gear would give more control in the downhills since the cadence would not be as crazy. How is it then that the 48/18 gives more control than the 48/16? This is pertinent to me as I trade my fixed 19 tooth back wheel with two bikes that have 49 and 50 chainrings (approx. 70"); and have a 17 tooth cog, never used, which I am dying to try after I get strong enough. That gear inch on the 50 ring would be about 78 inches though, and I think that would put me in the 70's rpm alot of the time, given my present strength. I prefer to stay close to 90 in the flats. The one immediate advantage I would get, I thought, was better control on the downhills. I am in a rolly area, and on a 70" I get to around 138 rpm on many downhills. I have reached 168 rpm's when I attack the pedals nearing the bottom of the hill.

Colimn-That green zone thing has been a concern of mine for some time. I consider myself a cautious decender, and have often wondered what happens when you just let her go. I use a front brake, and speed modulation on the pedals at the top of a hill until I am confident I am not going to go out of the " Green Zone", but have to consider that just to let her go may not result in totally unravelling. Has any body spun out in this way, particularly when clipped in, and if so what were the results. Although most of my rides are in the rolly category, there is a hill 2hours away that used to take me 27 minutes to decend on my geared bike. To ascend this used to take me aroung 47 mins. I was hoping this would be more doable on the downside on a 78 inch gear.

Ken-Thanks for the info on the knees as well. I have often wondered whether use in fact deteriorates, or whether not using ( in the way of not strengthening muscles around the knee), leads to quicker degeneration. I always feel better in that area during periods of use, and feel age in the knees in the winter when I am pretty inactive. There was as well an article in a bicycling mag on bone loss in relation to low impact exercises like cycling, which is reversed in load bearing exercises like running that has pertince to this issue. I have been trying to convince myself that my low cadence climbing in the 70" gear (60 rpm's), may be load bearing and contribute to bone strength as opposed to the high cadence mantra which is the holy grail of the geared crowd.

I'm still pretty new to this. If I get going "too fast" I start to bounce on the seat due to high speed back-pedaling. Then I start to concentrate on smoothly back circling and it smooths out, but if I'm not out of the hill by then, I brake.

I have yet to pull feet and let it go.