Commuting - Pitlock Locking Skewers vs Kryptonite Locking Skewers

I've just recieved my order of two identically keyed Pitlock locking skewers and I must say I'm impressed. I was using Kryptonite's skewers, but I found them to be a pain to lock and unlock. The Kryptonite key (of which you get one, so don't lose it!) seems to have a habit of slipping out of the end locking part of the skewer making removing a wheel a chore.

The key of the Pitlock (which you get two of per set) fits snugly into the lock with no slippage. The Pitlock also seems to be of sturdier constuction with a collar around the locking mechanism.

I ordered two sets of skewers identically keyed for my wife and I. The customer service was very good. I first wrote to Pitlock in German with the help of a friend as they are a German company. I recieved a reply from Jutta in both German and English. I wired them money from my account here in Latvia and recieved my skewers a week later. Not bad. For those interested I bet they would be willing to ship to North America.

http://www.pitlock.de/

EDIT: My Krypto Skewers also rusted. They are marketed as stainless steel. They seem to have a high iron content as they are attracted to a magnet. The Pitlock skewers, which are also made of stainless steel, are not attracted to a magnet leading me to beleive that they will be much more resistant to rust.

The problem with the krypto skewers is the locking washer they used is NOT SS, so it rusts.

Also note SS is not rustroof....it will rust over time. All steel is magnetic if it has significant iron content (which steel is an Iron alloy).

The problem with the krypto skewers is the locking washer they used is NOT SS, so it rusts.

Also note SS is not rustroof....it will rust over time. All steel is magnetic if it has significant iron content (which steel is an Iron alloy).
Even the skewer part of my Krypto Skewers have rust on them. I used them from December until May.

I just use the bolt-on skewers from Nashbar. I figure if someone has an Allen wrench they can pretty much steal any part of my bike anyway.

I just cable-lock my front wheel.

I just use the bolt-on skewers from Nashbar. I figure if someone has an Allen wrench they can pretty much steal any part of my bike anyway.

Yeah, ditto. I try to lock the front wheel to the frame to the post, and when I move I might (depending on how I feel about it and where I lock it most) get a wee U-lock to lock the rear wheel to the frame, but I don't stress too much about it.

I just use the bolt-on skewers from Nashbar. I figure if someone has an Allen wrench they can pretty much steal any part of my bike anyway.
I also fill in my allen heads with a bit of exopy. It's quick enough to get out when you need to change your stem or some such.

Do you folks who use allen heads for your wheels leave your bike parked outside in the city for long periods of time? I do, and I feel much better with my wheels being locked.

Are you just being [rightfully] paranoid, or is bicycle theft a big problem in Latvia? I thought it was mostly a problem in big cities in America. My town has about 80,000 people, and I lock my 80's Schwinn religiously, but I see people leaving their brand new specialized's and litespeeds just leaning against stuff! I know you'd be devastated if it disappeared, but are we just being overly paranoid?

Are you just being [rightfully] paranoid, or is bicycle theft a big problem in Latvia? I thought it was mostly a problem in big cities in America. My town has about 80,000 people, and I lock my 80's Schwinn religiously, but I see people leaving their brand new specialized's and litespeeds just leaning against stuff! I know you'd be devastated if it disappeared, but are we just being overly paranoid?
Yes, theft is a problem in Latvia. Is it a bit of overkill to put a bit of epoxy in the allan heads? Yes. Will my parts be there when I get back? Yes.

Theft is not only a problem in America. Oslo, Norway has a big problem, Toronto, Canada has a big problem, and don't forget the bike theft capital of the world, Amsterdam.

BTW I picked up the epoxy trick when I was living in Montreal. Some of the local messengers would refer to the McGill campus as the "Bike Shop".

The problem with the krypto skewers is the locking washer they used is NOT SS, so it rusts.

Also note SS is not rustroof....it will rust over time. All steel is magnetic if it has significant iron content (which steel is an Iron alloy).

Too true, a point many people don't understand. That is why it is called stain-LESS and not rust proof, though in Europe much stainless is marked rostfrei and it still isn't rust free.

There is a new class of steels out that seem to be truly rustproof. One type is designated H1 and seems to defy rust, even in salt water fog tests (Q fog). As far as I know they are not making washers out of H1 yet. Maybe the krypto skewers become more theft proof by rusting shut? :rolleyes:

I never worried about it much. I just removed the skewers every few months to clean them over with some 00mesh steel wool, and then put a nice oil coat on them and reinstalled...finishing off with a oil coat when done.

Then just oil coat every two weeks...takes all of 30seconds. Use some light duty oil (gun oil works great), dab a paper towel or napkin with it and rub over the ends of the skewers. Gun oil is nice (like Hoppes) because it's thinner than chain lube, so thin that it's odds of picking up much crud is minimal.

Do you folks who use allen heads for your wheels leave your bike parked outside in the city for long periods of time?

My bike spends every day locked to a downtown parking meter.

I used to lock the wheels with a cable lock, and one time someone stole my skewers! The worst part was I didn't notice until I rode over a curb and my wheel fell off and I went down. I'm still mad about that.

I haven't had any problem since I switched to the Allen bolts. I do have to remember to carry an Allen wrench, which is handy anyway.

It's probably a bad idea for me to be giving this advice, because if more people start doing this the thieves will start carrying Allen wrenches. Keeping your bike safe is an arms race -- against the other cyclists as much as the thieves!

Pitlocks are great, too bad they no longer have a US distributor, nor do they accept payment through Paypal or similar services. Wiring or transferring money to Pitlock in Germany costs almost as much as a set of their locking skewers. :(

Pitlocks are great, too bad they no longer have a US distributor, nor do they accept payment through Paypal or similar services. Wiring or transferring money to Pitlock in Germany costs almost as much as a set of their locking skewers. :(
I don't know about in the States, but in Europe you have a choice of how the money is wired. One day, two day, or three day; three day being 1/3 the cost of one day. Perhaps you could look into something like that with your bank. Or go through one of the British online sellers, they might take PayPal or some such. What ever you might do it will still be cheaper then a new wheel set!

From my understanding with the frequency of component theft on mountain bikes, you can assume theives already have allen keys on them.

I'd go for something with a Torx or Robertson bit myself, since that is pretty uncommon on bikes.

Torx or Robertson bit myself, since that is pretty uncommon on bikes.
Actually Torx heads are becoming more visible with the increased number of disc brakes on the market. Perhaps Security Torx

Anyone know how Veratomic (http://www.veratomic.com) Quick-Locks compare to the above two discussed products?

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=137620

Too true, a point many people don't understand. That is why it is called stain-LESS and not rust proof, though in Europe much stainless is marked rostfrei and it still isn't rust free.

So, then, the Headless Horseman was so called not because he had no head, but because he had less of a head?

no it was called stainless because it does not stain, unlike carbon steel.

rostfrei is a slightly misleading term, since it will rust...any ferrous material will rust...just like any buffalo wing within a 2ft distance of me will be in my belly.

If you ever had a high carbon steel blade with a permanent thumbprint on the blade, you'll know exactly what I mean.

no it was called stainless because it does not stain, unlike carbon steel.

rostfrei is a slightly misleading term, since it will rust...any ferrous material will rust...just like any buffalo wing within a 2ft distance of me will be in my belly.

If you ever had a high carbon steel blade with a permanent thumbprint on the blade, you'll know exactly what I mean.

Many high quality cutlery steels will stain though. The cheaper stuff is more stain resistant, but makes an inferior knife. I've been collecting knives since I was a little kid, and seriously researching them for at least 10 years and have had knives made of almost every modern steel. Stainless, rostfrei, and inox are all marketing terms more than true descriptions in my opinion though for something to be classified as stainless it has to have 18% (IIRC) chrome or higher.

I've had ATS-34 blades show fingerprints if not wiped down. 440V is even worse in my experience. VG-10 is very resistant for me, and makes a good blade for many activities, but some people haven't had such good experiences.

The point is that most people believe that stainless steel will not oxidize. It will, just not as easily as non-stainless steels. Even titanium oxidizes, but on a microsopic level that protects the underlying metal.

So, then, the Headless Horseman was so called not because he had no head, but because he had less of a head?

Which is better, an apple or an orange?

Which is better, an apple or an orange?

I'll need more details: season, storage and transport procedures before market, etc.

For information on how stainless steel can corrode, see the chapter, "Of Bus Frames and Knife Blades" in Henry Petroski's book, "To Engineer Is Human". He notes, "Stainless steel is actually a misnomer, for the metal corrodes readily in salt water."

Many high quality cutlery steels will stain though. The cheaper stuff is more stain resistant, but makes an inferior knife. I've been collecting knives since I was a little kid, and seriously researching them for at least 10 years and have had knives made of almost every modern steel. Stainless, rostfrei, and inox are all marketing terms more than true descriptions in my opinion though for something to be classified as stainless it has to have 18% (IIRC) chrome or higher.

I've had ATS-34 blades show fingerprints if not wiped down. 440V is even worse in my experience. VG-10 is very resistant for me, and makes a good blade for many activities, but some people haven't had such good experiences.

The point is that most people believe that stainless steel will not oxidize. It will, just not as easily as non-stainless steels. Even titanium oxidizes, but on a microsopic level that protects the underlying metal.


Man...what got to the ATS34? You mean permanent marks (I meant permanent marks in my previous post)? My benchmade panther is ATS34, and the only marks on it is a scratch from one of my friends who tried to be nice and sharpen it for me on his brand new carbide "pocket sharpener"...the mark is from him being off-kilter and the side of the blade rubbing against the ned of a carbide bit, wasn't too bad though...sadly it screwed up the nice utility edge I had on it and had to get it re-edged at the knife shop... /sigh they charge for anything more than maintenance sharpening too....

My online store is now up for PITLOCK skewers. I'm in Ottawa, ON so no need to worry about language issues, wire transfers, overseas shipping etc. URL is in my Bike Forums profile.

your site seems like its not up and running yet.

Sorry about that; I jumped the gun.

It is up and running now. I'm still learning Dreamweaver so it's slow-going.

Which is better, an apple or an orange?

Actually, he makes a good point. Go look up the suffix "-less" and you'll see your definition is completely wrong.

Just a quick plug for Urbanbiketech. I haven't ordered anything yet, so I can't comment on the skewers but the fellow at the site was incredibly responsive to a series of questions from me--very good pre-purchase service. I've been planning on ordering some of the Pitlock stuff for a while and I'm glad to have it more readily available.

Has anyone used the M10 Pitlock locking nuts for solid axles? Are they track nuts, do they have integrated washers that are knurled on one side? Seem a little pricey does anyone know and alternative to this option?

Thanks

I have pitlocks on all my bikes they all match so it is easy to get the wheels off with only one tool. never seen a speck of rust on them and they work pretty well. though they are on the spendy side.
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/pitlock.asp

Are you just being [rightfully] paranoid, or is bicycle theft a big problem in Latvia? I thought it was mostly a problem in big cities in America. My town has about 80,000 people, and I lock my 80's Schwinn religiously, but I see people leaving their brand new specialized's and litespeeds just leaning against stuff! I know you'd be devastated if it disappeared, but are we just being overly paranoid?

I bet next week it's an even newer brand new specialized or litespeed.

2nd ulock for front wheel. i'd rather lock wheel to frame or rack than hope someone doesn't open up my seat bag, take out the muti tool and take off the front wheel.(i always take bag, and lights with me and lock up helmet)

my onguard ulock was 30bucks, and takes a min to lock up the front wheel. even an entry level mtb wheel will cost between 40-100bucks new(even on craigslist its gonna be +20 for used). for that money i'd rather just buy a new-used commuter bike. i'd be really happy if someone stole my beater bike and left the locks, mirror, rack, reflective tape, and helmet.