Bikewer
06-06-05, 06:16 PM
Of my home-built. I realized that the derailleur-cage chain guide wasn't going to cut it; it was noisy and I didn't trust the plain bushings on the rollers. So, I constructed this:
Using the roller-blade wheels and a fabricated aluminum cage. At about the same time, I decided to do away with the dual-chain, dual crank setup. Not only unduly complex and heavy, but I couldn't get the gear ratios where I wanted em'. (too low overall)
So, as you can see in the pic, I routed the top run of the chain through a 1/2" tube, after reading up on this dodge on the homebuilt recumbent database. Seems to work very well; quiet too. At present, the original crank is only functioning as an idler. I plan to remove the whole thing and use either another tube, or another skate wheel.
The original skate wheels, obtained from a pair of cast-off 'blades, proved too soft. (74 durometer) The drive-side roller failed after about 20 miles. I have since obtained a pair of 88+ durometer wheels, which are the recommended hardness. These have proved much easier to "machine" as well, using my jury-rigged drill arangement.
Right now, using all three front chainrings, I have a pretty useable gear range. I think I can refine this further with a compact crank, if I can find one.
All this is functioning as a test-bed for version 2.0, which will use an aluminum Y-frame as it's basis. I already have that frame, but I have to strip off all the junky steel parts.
I have my eye on an old Raliegh "technium" roadster, which may furnish the boom assembly. Refining the unduly-heavy seat and stem assembly should bring me into the 30-pound range.
Using the roller-blade wheels and a fabricated aluminum cage. At about the same time, I decided to do away with the dual-chain, dual crank setup. Not only unduly complex and heavy, but I couldn't get the gear ratios where I wanted em'. (too low overall)
So, as you can see in the pic, I routed the top run of the chain through a 1/2" tube, after reading up on this dodge on the homebuilt recumbent database. Seems to work very well; quiet too. At present, the original crank is only functioning as an idler. I plan to remove the whole thing and use either another tube, or another skate wheel.
The original skate wheels, obtained from a pair of cast-off 'blades, proved too soft. (74 durometer) The drive-side roller failed after about 20 miles. I have since obtained a pair of 88+ durometer wheels, which are the recommended hardness. These have proved much easier to "machine" as well, using my jury-rigged drill arangement.
Right now, using all three front chainrings, I have a pretty useable gear range. I think I can refine this further with a compact crank, if I can find one.
All this is functioning as a test-bed for version 2.0, which will use an aluminum Y-frame as it's basis. I already have that frame, but I have to strip off all the junky steel parts.
I have my eye on an old Raliegh "technium" roadster, which may furnish the boom assembly. Refining the unduly-heavy seat and stem assembly should bring me into the 30-pound range.
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