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View Full Version : canti brake problem (are low profile the problem?)



JOHN J
06-16-05, 08:06 AM
Hi everyone,

Im still playing with my canti problem ,its much better but no cigar yet .

heres the scoop.

Surly XC with road levers/wheels, the brakes That I purchased with the frame are tektro oryx .

well after setting them up I had the CANTI CURSE ,squeal and chatter from Hades and no matter
what I did it did work well , and the only thing that worked half azzed made the brakes useless.



I tried everything!! all the toe-in tricks , Sheldons tricks... to no avail. Hmm never had problems with big fat MTBs and cantis but, fat rims and levers that pull lots of cable are agreeable to low profile cantis..



I did notice that if the pads (either brand ) were right up close to the brakes they were much better but, with the pads that close to the brake there was not much leverage left on the arms (almost vertical). I also noticed the pivots on my set of oryx were pretty darn sloppy (loose) and that could for sure add to the problem. The tektros only were quiet when not used or so much toe in that I couldnt use them.

I found a pair of NOS Paul stoplights at a LBS and put them on my front and for the most part all the problems are gone, BUT again even on this better (much better) made brake I have to keep the pad as close as possible to the brake.

the further the pad posts/studs are exposed the worse the problem though with the Paul stoplight it was much less a problem (but not good) than with the Tektro which is real bad. !

with the above scenario in mind It seems to make sence that with skinny road rims /levers that wide profile cantis should be the right choice , at least on the front?

It seems to me that with a wide profile canti I could snug the pads pretty darn close to the brake (less post/stud to flex / vibrate) and still have plenty of Arm angle left to pull cable even if I position the pad a MM or two from rim.

with low profile cantis if I snug the pad to the brake itself to stop the squeal /chatter and also move close to rim then braking power is gone as the arms are almost vertical.

Sheldon Brown mentions this on the harris site But It didnt sink in with me untill after I ordered my brakes. sheldon mentions the fact that with low profile brakes the pads have to stick way out on the posts to allow enough leverage thus causing the brakes to squeal vibrate ... hence the tradeoff of low profiles.


In final Im wondering if My assumption of using a Paul neo retro or similar Wide profile with everything snugged up will solve most of the trouble that seems to haunt the new low profile cantis that are often used with road components.?

your thoughts please.

have a great ride

"John"

wildjim
06-16-05, 08:21 AM
I've just purchased a Motobecane Fantom Cross bicycle and it has Tektro Oryx brakes and Alexrims X2100 rims. I have no problems at all with squeal or chatter, the brakes are smooth and powerful.

I would write Surly and ask for a recommendation.

darkmother
06-16-05, 09:02 AM
I went through this adventure myself a few months ago. I started out with tectro cantis, steer tube mounted cable hanger, and stock pads. I tried, with limited success:

987 cantis (improvement, but still chattering), Kool Stops (better, but not much) toe in (somewhat better).

Then I tried a fork mounted cable stop. Problem solved. I have no chatter whatsoever, even with no brake toe in. Try it....it works.

JOHN J
06-16-05, 09:33 AM
Hi Darkmother,

that will be in the works after I try a few more things as changing the cable stop will be a pain cuz I just finished the bars. and no one near me has White cable housing id need a longer piece.

I read your posts from way back and looks like your adventure was similar to what im having.

Wild Jim, Im glad you have no problems with your Oryx. how much wiggle do you think you have between the pivot and bushing? mine is quite noticeable.

again My #1 observation is that if the pads are very close the the brake itself and not sticking out most of the trouble dissapears.

happy spinning

"John"

wildjim
06-16-05, 03:42 PM
Hi Darkmother,

that will be in the works after I try a few more things as changing the cable stop will be a pain cuz I just finished the bars. and no one near me has White cable housing id need a longer piece.

I read your posts from way back and looks like your adventure was similar to what im having.

Wild Jim, Im glad you have no problems with your Oryx. how much wiggle do you think you have between the pivot and bushing? mine is quite noticeable.

again My #1 observation is that if the pads are very close the the brake itself and not sticking out most of the trouble dissapears.

happy spinning

"John"

The Tektro Oryx on the Motobecane has about 1mm(or less - maximum) free play at the frame and fork mounts. The cable stop is mounted on the steering tube, it has dual brake levers Shimano Tiagra and Tektro. The pads are not too close, about 3-4mm from the rim

Also I have a Kona Jake The Snake with Avid Shorty 4 brakes and they are setup like the Motobecane as described above.

It seems that the amount of free play described is normal and functional.

Perhaps your brake chatter solution is elsewhere, maybe the frame or fork designed for use with another brake type or model? Surly uses the Tektro 862A brakes on their pre built Cross Check Bicycle and it appears the cable stops are configured the same as described above.

echocola
07-08-05, 09:08 PM
I just bought a Poprad and noticed the "chatter" problem. The chatter seems to get much worse in wet weather. I tried to really figure out what was going on by doing some tests. I gained speed and applied the brakes hard enough so I could get a steady chatter, I would be looking at the fork as this happened. What I saw was unusual. It seemed that the brake was actually locking the front wheel and the chatter was the front wheel "hopping" very quickly! :eek:

I read elsewhere that this might be a fork rigidity problem, this could be it because how can the front wheel lock and I not do an endo? Probably because the fork his flexing to compensate for the forward motion.

Anyhow, this is VERY bad, someone can get really hurt with this, especially in emergency situations. Lets say this were a car and the whole car started vibrating while you braked hard, I think there would be a national recall.

I'm seriously thinking about writing LeMond and telling them that this is a flaw that has to be addressed. Is the only solution to this problem that someone gets seriously injured?

Hopefully we can all do something together, they will listen if we all complain collectively.... :(

DPCX
07-08-05, 11:34 PM
The majority of all cross bikes have front brake chatter, most people just end up dealing with it. Its the combination of a large diameter skinny rim, long rigid forks & brake set up. Sometimes you can cure it with softer compound pads & screwing around with the toe-in, sometimes not. I've raced on several different cross bikes & find that a fork crown mounted cable stop cures it 90% of the time. However, my current race bikes are set up with Alpha Q forks that dont have a hole for mounting the cable stop but I have Spooky's & Frogleggs that are pretty dialed with soft Kool Stop pads & it works fine. I'm pretty convinced that's its not a design flaw since I've heard of this from many different brands of cross bikes. I work for one of these brands. PM me if you would like to find out where to get a cable stop. I check this site a few times a week so sorry if it takes a few days to reply. cheers,

DP