Commuting - Looking for advice on night-commuting

I'm excited that I finally have a job I can commute to. My last job, I had to haul lots of stuff with me to work (around a 100 lbs worth), so I just drove. But, now, I just have to haul a small bag, which can fit in my backpack or messenger bag.

But, I work midnights. If I am correct, the state of Illinois (let me tell you, this state has rules for EVERYTHING) requires a rear light, a front light, and wheel reflectors for night riding. To be honest, I'm suprised the cops don't pull you over and check your chain for proper lube.

I also have a locker at work. No showers though.

Anyone have advice on commuting in the dark? Commuting in general? Being prepared for rain? I don't have a light yet. Can anyone give me advice on this? Should I get a brand-new light, or get a deal on eBay?

My current setup is an 18-speed steel road bike with a pretty sturdy wheelset (32h, 3 cross, straight 14 ga spokes), 700x25c tires, and clipless mountain bike pedals, frame pump, patch kit, mini-tool kit, extra tube, tire levers.

Although I have a car, I'm looking to commute on bike since my work demands quite a bit of my time. This way, I can get some riding in.

Any advice would be great.

Dan

Danr.. I commute to work on midnights. But my "midnights" start at 6 pm and end at 6:30 am. So during my winter commute my night riding is at most 30 minutes..
My light is a 'smart charge' digital NiMh Niterider battery with 3.5 hour charge.. Plenty of light.. Riding at night with lots of reflective gear on and a rear light that blinks, makes me feel pretty secure. Do not like commuting home in early am fog. WOrst part. You probably can save lots on a good lighting system by using E Bay , but I would have a trustworthy system.. Sales might only save you 30%, which is not much on an expensive system.. A friend got my very system for about half on EBay..
Would miss a shower. That really revives me.. That can be overcome with body wipes and a wash basin.. I agree I like how commuting to work really takes up your monthly mileage and puts you in a special hard core category.
Without my work commute my monthly mileage would be about 200 miles less and I very much celebrate the lack of commuting on the roadway with those crazy stressed out motorists.. Plus the gas and mileage I do not put on my car.. Good luck..

I have had good experiences with Niterider lights, if a brand recommendation would help. I don't know if they're in your budget range or not, but for road use, I would lean toward a 15W handlebar-mounted headlight (or their delicious HID headlight if you have the money) and their ultra-high-power taillight. They are build well (NR makes diving lights too) and some models have LED battery meters: Niterider's site (http://www.niterider.com/prod_bicycle.html) Of the single-beam models, the Digital Evolution would be my pick (after the Blowtorch HID, that is).

At one point I had a Niterider Nighthawk dual-beam bar-mounted light, about 35W max output, and a 15W Niterider helmet light, and I used this combo off-road. The interesting thing was that the 15W single-beam reached further down the trail than the dual-beam at max power. So for road usage, the pointy beam of the 15W may reveal potholes or obstacles sooner, and on road you don't really need a ton of light being spread out to the sides.

The taillight is simply phenomenal. In total darkness, even a standard LED flasher can show up well, but the NR taillight will show up in full broad daylight, with similar intensity to a car's center brake light. In dusk, this could give a driver several seconds of extra notice that you're there, against a background of cars with their lights on.

Anyway, still got my old Nitehawk (later renamed Digital Pro-12 due to a trademark conflict) and my crazy taillight, but I wish I had my 15W light also. Keep in mind that you also will probably need a (clean) red rear reflector visible for a certain distance in legally-aimed lowbeam headlights, despite the fact you have a taillight as well. I would suggest getting a Cateye LD500 LED flasher, which incorporates a CPSC-legal rear reflector and also provides a backup flasher if your main light system runs dead.

I also want to mention something about helmet mounting... in traffic, a helmet light is easy to accidentally shine into people's eyes, which may stir up a road rage situation. They also tend to make obstacles look flat. The bar-mounted light is below your eyes and casts shadows that accentuate the height of the obstacle, whereas a helmet-mounted light is above your line of sight and the shadows it casts are not visible. So for road use, I'd go with bar-mounted for those reasons.

I'm going to see if I can dredge up your precise legal obligations according to Illinois law.

Check the age of a used system, if you can. Ni-cads, or Ni-Metal have finite lives and begin to hold less and less of a charge as they reach the end. A new battery pack can put you back a chunk of cash, in some cases. When my Niterider waterbottle nicad pack went to battery heaven, I bought 2500ma nicads with tabs and wired them up. Still cost $85 for the cells.

Tom

Ok, here's the scoop for lights and reflectors in Illinois:

http://www.dps.uiuc.edu/TrafficSafety/illinois.htm


625 ILCS 5/11-1507 -- Lamps and other equipment on bicycles

Sec. 11-1507. Lamps and other equipment on bicycles.

(a) Every bicycle, when in use at night time, shall be equipped with a lamp on the front, which shall emit a white light visible from a distance of at least 500 feet to the front and with a red reflector on the rear, of a type approved by the Department, which shall be visible from all distances from 100 feet to 600 feet to the rear when directly in front of lawful lower beams of headlamps on a motor vehicle. A lamp emitting a red light visible from a distance of 500 feet to the rear may be used in addition to the red reflector.



By the way, if those solutions are way out of your price range, let us know. But if you can swing the Niterider system, it's going to hold up. Cheaper than a night in the hospital...

How long is your commute.
How good is the street lighting.
What kind of lockup security do you have.
If there are street lights, then off-road trail lights are overkill.
I ride on streets with good lighting, and on short sections of trail (through parks etc) with no lighting. I find that a well designed 3 watt system is more than good enough; I can illuminate dark trails up to 30m ahead.

I use a 6v lead acid battery stuffed into a waterbottle, a dynamo-style headlamp and a constant voltage recharger. The parts cost me about £40, and give 3hrs of illumination. Also use a good LED rear blinkie and lots of scotchlite material. I carry a spare clipon blinkie as well, for fog or battery failure.

Expensive bar-mounted lights are thief-magnets, easy to remove and sell.


For riding in rain , you need full-length close fitting fenders (SKS brand). How much waterproofing you use depends on the temp, but I find that Pertex material manages dampness better, and for less money than full waterproofs.

Originally posted by MichaelW
For riding in rain , you need full-length close fitting fenders (SKS brand). How much waterproofing you use depends on the temp, but I find that Pertex material manages dampness better, and for less money than full waterproofs.

Something else you will need for riding in the rain is some plastic bags to put your stuff in (inside your panniers/messenger bag/whatever) to provide additional protection and keep your workclothes dry (despite all the hype about "waterproof" panniers, they don't work in tropical downpours).

Originally posted by Chris L


Something else you will need for riding in the rain is some plastic bags to put your stuff in (inside your panniers/messenger bag/whatever) to provide additional protection and keep your workclothes dry (despite all the hype about "waterproof" panniers, they don't work in tropical downpours).

Ahhh... It's good to have you back, Chris. :beer:

The plastic bags also help to keep things seperate. If you use plastic bags from different stores for different bits, you can quickly and easily sort your underwear from your washing kit etc.

Ellie

It all depends on what kind of money you want to spend on a lighting system. I use a Cateye EL100 Micro-Halogen light on the front and a another blinking tail light. Its plasticy but inexpensive ($25 for a set), takes 4 AAs which I use the rechargeables for... saves a ton of money. It hardly weighs anything and is bright enough to kind of see with for an hour or so... and makes you visible for much much longer... plus the mounting gear is simple and the lights come on and off quick and easy. I also like the wide velcro ankle reflector strips and an extra blinky on my bag. Theres some cool lights that go on you valve stems that make cool illuminated circles in blue or red or whatever on wheels... corny but great for visibility from the side. You can't have too much visibility illumination for night commuting. Just think blink.

number 1 reason for lighting is to be seen. this is easy. #2 reason is enough light to see by when there are no street lights - this costs $$$ and usually weighs a lot!

it depends on many factors:
* $$$ - $20, $50 or $150 or more
* distance and frequency
* parking security
* charging options
* route and amount of light required - to be seen or ENOUGH to SEE on a dark road.

see this former thread: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6905&highlight=light+nightrider

i use 3 different systems depending on the situation:
1) $100+ NightRider systems are great when you need to see the road - for pitch black or off-road. they also make you really visible so they're more safe and the headlight kind you can shine in a car driver's eyes to get attention. cons: very heavy and a pain in the ass to secure - unless you have super safe parking you have to carry the multi-pound battery with you - also expensive --- i find it just too inconvenient for my daily commute and also unnecessary as i commute on public streets on bike paths and they are all lit with street lights
2) $20-50 dynamo light - cheap and always there and no one will steal it (probably) - cons: low output light, makes noise and reduces your speed a little --- also considered too 'old-school' for most Americans -- pro: there's no battery to forget or go dead -- i have this one on my junk city bike for "unsafe" parking areas like downtown at night
3) $20-$100 small rechargeable - lightweight, easy to remove and carry with for security... provides enough light to be seen, a little to see. cons: only lasts an hour or 2 on a charge

if it were me getting started night commuting, i would go with #2 or #3 (unless you've got big bucks to spend on the Nightrider and a secure bike-parking place so you can leave it on the bike at work). then if you find you need more light, figure out what you can afford and what kind of burn time you need, etc.

For the record, the Niterider systems do detach, leaving just the bracket on the handlebar :)

As far as seeing goes... having done rides on the highway from Pullman to Spokane at night (75mi/120km) using dynamo lighting, I would actually say this: the darker it is, the less light you need. In the pitch-dark countryside, the 2.4W Union headlight worked ok because my eyes could adjust to it. It's in situations with "interference," such as in the city, that extra output may be needed to pick out potholes and debris against a backdrop of car lights and streetlights. If you think a dynamo set might get the job done, see if your LBS has a used Union halogen headlight-taillight system they'd sell you cheap. Keep in mind that it won't be technically legal if you stop and the light goes out. If you were struck by a car in this situation, the driver would probably get off on this technicality unless you also had a small battery-powered headlight.

As far as being seen goes, I think more power is better and particularly in traffic. The suggestion of a reflective vest is also a good one, if you can make it work out with your backpack.

Cateye does have a battery-powered light that takes two D cells and goes over 20 hours on good ones, with light output comparable to their 2-C HL500 (8-hour runtime). That's the HL-270K (http://www.cateye.com/detail_mod02.php?products_id=62) and it would sell for less than $20. Downside is that it's a little big.

I started using Nitehawk about eight years ago after encountering a pothole that wasn't picked up in the anemic beam of the 2-watt. At the time, the Nitehawk's cost was 50% of that of my commute bike, but I thought it was a good investment regardless. To me, having the ability to lay out 30 watts of power to "light up the night" is especially useful when cycling through industrial areas where I definitely want to be seen by vehicles coming from the side streets. Even if there is good street lighting, there are places where I want the additional power so that the moving light will more easily register on the drivers' peripheral vision.

How far are you going to ride? Is it urban or rural? This will have a lot to do with what you should wear and what equipment you should carry.

I would consider fenders a necessity. Long after the rain has stopped, the tires will throw up a spray of water laden with oil droplets from cars and road grit. This will give you a "skunk stripe" on your back, and the grit will lead to rapid chain and cog wear.

Lights. Everyone has their own preference. I use a dynamo, and would not care for anything else. If I had to charge my car or check the batteries every time I needed to drive at night, how often would I use my car?

Raingear. A Gore-tex long raincoat is my basic item. I also have a pair of rainpants (nylon) and Totes shoe covers (the high ones, not the low ones. The low ones will cause your shoes to fill with water) Note that any raingear that works will be quite warm, which leads to:

Rack. You don't want to wear your raingear in the summer unless it is raining.

Paul

I used a clamp-on Union dynamo for short trips around a city, and found it barely adaquate, and not very reliable, the clamp was contantly slipping and very flexy.
On my touring bike I asked for a braze-on mounting tab, and a high quality generator (Nordlicht). With the correct tyres (having a generator strip) there was no comparison between the two setups. On dark country lanes the new system lights up the whole road and is very bright, efficient and reliable. Modern lamp units (front and rear) make very efficient use of the illumination.
Even better than my system is a dynamo hub eg Schmidt, but these are not cheap.
If your night-time travel is unpredictable, then dynamo is a good solution and better than those small battery lamps which mount on the bars.
My current commuter uses a water-bottle battery because of the steep hills and muddy tracks I have to use.

I took the plans for my home-wired system from Cycling Plus magazine.

Originally posted by Ellie
The plastic bags also help to keep things seperate. If you use plastic bags from different stores for different bits, you can quickly and easily sort your underwear from your washing kit etc.


Yes, and also if your clothes get wet on the ride in, you will presumably want to separate them from your dry riding clothes that you will, of course, need for the ride home.

Two most important things: Visibility and to stay warm.

For raingear a cheep set will due if your commute isn´t to long. The main thing isn´t to stay dry, but to stay warm. Cheep non breathable cloths will keep you warm but not dry. So, for a shorter commute non breathable rain clothing is OK. Choose bright colours for visibility. Use reflective tape on helmet and racks, yes even on cloths. Panniers which are waterproof are best but not a must. Like said by others, use plastic bags in the panniers.

Anders K

Originally posted by danr
I'm excited that I finally have a job I can commute to. My last job, I had to haul lots of stuff with me to work (around a 100 lbs worth), so I just drove. But, now, I just have to haul a small bag, which can fit in my backpack or messenger bag.

But, I work midnights. If I am correct, the state of Illinois (let me tell you, this state has rules for EVERYTHING) requires a rear light, a front light, and wheel reflectors for night riding. To be honest, I'm suprised the cops don't pull you over and check your chain for proper lube.

I also have a locker at work. No showers though.

Anyone have advice on commuting in the dark? Commuting in general? Being prepared for rain? I don't have a light yet. Can anyone give me advice on this? Should I get a brand-new light, or get a deal on eBay?

My current setup is an 18-speed steel road bike with a pretty sturdy wheelset (32h, 3 cross, straight 14 ga spokes), 700x25c tires, and clipless mountain bike pedals, frame pump, patch kit, mini-tool kit, extra tube, tire levers.

Although I have a car, I'm looking to commute on bike since my work demands quite a bit of my time. This way, I can get some riding in.

Any advice would be great.

Dan

Thanks all. After plenty of advice and further consideration, I decided to go with a rear blinker, nice front light (still don't know what brand), carry rain gear with on a rack or backpack. My current route is about 15 miles(24 km) round trip on a combination of rural road and a highway with a nice size shoulder to ride on.:D

I really like my helmet-mounted rearview mirror. It has a flat mirror so it gives true distance perception, and a quick turn of the head lets me see where I want to. If you want to keep an eye on the traffic behind you on the highway, you might consider trying one out.

I use the "night stick" it works pretty well, get three hours, well that was when I first got it, and after two winters it's about had it.

It sounds like you've got a lot of the bases covered, with carrying stuff in a pack or rack. I would go with a rack. I use one on my commuter (Gary Fisher Sphinx). That way you can carry a lot or a little and the pack not get your shirt even more sweaty, or the pack sweaty.

Listen to the advice about the plastic bags. I wish I had thought of them for my cell phone, it cost me 100 bucks to learn the lesson that cell phones don't like to be sweat on, or occassionaly dunked in a sprinkler or occassional rain shower. I also took a path a long Minnehaha Creek and it had flooded the regularly dry paved bike path. I went through foot deep water which of course got into my panniers and soaked them well. You know something is water proof when there is water in them and you can't get it out.

As far as just general commuting under the stars at night. Give yourself plenty of time, get to know your route. Riding at night will teach you where each and every defect in pavement is, and you'll anticipate them. My commute now takes me home after midnight. I have to remember the guy in the steel coffin may not be coming home from work, but maybe a bar, so I hope he sees me. So I try to ride with a bright shirt to be seen. There is that stylish lightweight windshirt that has the material that lights up, but is pretty sedate in sunlight, for get the manufacture, but just one of those shirts is enough. And I like to have a mirror. I mount them on the end of my bar(MTB type). I can see what's behind me. Keeps me safe.

Blinkies are great, and so are lights, but there is something to be said about shuting down the light and riding under the full moon. My last job was a fourteen mile commute, and went through some "rural" areas, where I encountered some neat wildlife, deer, rabbits, owls, geese, etc. And once or twice I got to watch the Northern Lights from my saddle.

Make sure you're seen, assume the other guy doesn't see you, get to know your route, most important have fun.

I guess you have most of your questions answered. Just a few more thoughts.

I use clear lens ski googles or glasses when riding and when it it's cold or raining you have to deal with fogging and soaked lenses. I used FOG-X on the inside of the lens and RAIN-X on the outside lens. Try it first on a cheap pair of glasses or googles first to see if it works for you.

I have seen these things called TIRE-FLYS. These are motion sensored lights that replace your valve caps. When your wheels are spinning, they flash. Looks like it would be great for motorist to see you.

Like most others, I use those zip-lock type bags to keep my clothes dry. I also leave a extra set-of clean clothes at work just in case I need them.

I also felt I needed my cell phone with me for an emergency so I got a cheap cell phone holder that fits nicely on the handlebar at TARGET.

Speaking of cheap glasses, some clear glasses are a big help at keeping the bugs out of your eyes. If you don't wear prescription glasses, you might go to a local industrial-safety company and look at "Cudas," which are polycarbonate saftey glasses that come in clear, amber, dark smoked, and mirrored, and they're under $10. Even the clear ones block UV light, and they don't look too bad either.

here's a picture of my bike. Just to give you an idea of how to be visible.:D

Here's the front:


Anyway, here's the deal. All the white shiny stuff is reflective tape that I picked up at w-mart. I've applied this to the crankarms, The seatstays, the rims, cable housings, various places on the frame, and on the rear fender I got creative and cut the tape in the shape of a tree, the sun, a star and a flame.:D This tape is nice as it conforms well to curves and sticks quite well. If you need to remove it, just warm it up with a hair-dryer and start peeling. Then use some rubbing alcohol to remove the rest of the residue.

The large square brite peice is a peice of a construction barrier that I found and attached to the back of the rack. It also has a large red stick-on reflector centered in it, but you can't see that too well in the photos.

with all the reflectors I find that cars give me a wider berth and often slow down when passing and that oncoming cars are better able to recognize me as a cyclist and dim their highbeams sooner. Before the modifications some motorists would flick on their highbeams when they saw me. Apparently, they couldn't figure out what that light on the side of the road was.

thbirks, I do a similar thing, especially with the moving parts, like you did with the rims. This makes the best impression I've found.

Very cool.

Pretend your whole body is flashing in bright colors and that any driver on the road wins the grand prize by hitting you. (If you can find a copy of Neil Stephenson's Zodiac, you can this basic concept said much better.)

When you ride at night, your bell or horn should not be some polite little 'ping'. The loud horn that I use sounds somewhat like the obnoxious grinding sound that local police cars use to get through traffic when they don't want to actually turn on their siren. It's hard to ignore.

I get flashbacks from the movie "Electric Horseman" from 1979 with Robert Redford, when reading these posts;)

Anders K

danr is being a bit quiet here...

just to let you all know - save yourselves some money and don't buy this.... I got a cateye flashing front light - very bright, BUT (and ooooh what a but) the fancy schmancy battery lasts 7 hours and costs 7 pounds (abt 12 US)! they dont mention that at halfords when youre buying em.

my friend swears by these new white LED's (rather than the poor green front ones), which use only AA's. they are bright and the batteries last (and are cheap). I'm gonna get one of these.

a honking horn is a good idea too, as cars won't hear a bell - anyone know a cheap place to get these in central or north london?? they are overpriced in the bike shops I've seen

Originally posted by alexeicharkham

a honking horn is a good idea too, as cars won't hear a bell - anyone know a cheap place to get these in central or north london?? they are overpriced in the bike shops I've seen

Check out Air Zound. I´m satisfied with my horn. Not to expensive either...

Anders K