BMX - 3 Anti-Roll Holes

I am looking at different kind of pegs. I see most of them have anti roll holes in them. I was just wondering how they work and if you guys use any of them or recomend any for sliding ledges and rails?

Steel, smooth. No reason to mess with Ti, sleeved, knurled, aluminum...just get steel and smooth. The anti-roll pin just keeps it from spinning in the dropout (it'll make perfect sense when you pick up a pair) and you've got 3 holes to stick the pin so you don't gotta throw away your peg once it's worn down on one side, you just put the pin in another hole and spin the peg.

they aren't a necessity if you grind right, but they are needed if you grind left

Thats probably what I need, I grind left and had problems with loose pegs so I stoped riding with pegs.

I grind left so I guess I will get them. I just saw some odyssey G.I. Pegs at my L.B.S. and I thought I would get them for grinding. I have never used the anti roll pegs.

Thats probably what I need, I grind left and had problems with loose pegs so I stoped riding with pegs.

i just tighten them in their glory(SA slang for(in this context)as much as possible) and i grind left and NO problems. :D

if you want great pegs...get the Kink pegs...not the light ones though...the O.G's they have a lifetime warranty of grinding through...and there smooth and have the anit-spin pins like your talking about...

sounds good.
i'm running some Aluminium pegs(from some oldschool bike) that weigh like 90grams(around 3.2oz) each and i run 2 of em on the left side and after like 3 months of grinding, stalling, falling, etc are still cool. like, not grinded through, still stable, and in a word, beautiful. LIGHT aswell.

aluminium is noooo good for pegs...i dont even think a flatlander would use them...but i may be wrong...


get Kink Pegs
and if your really cheap..get those Poverty Pegs...there the best part Poverty makes...

Ignorance, as usual. Aluminum is used on most flatland pegs.

And plenty of freestyle riders use aluminum pegs; Rob Nolli, for example, uses them because it's way easier to hold stalls on them.

i meant aluminium is no good for STREET...as in a concrete ledge would TEAR them up...for park there probly good...and as far as flatland..i didnt know..thats why i put..I THINK...

You said "aluminum is no good for pegs", not "aluminum is no good for street".

You said "aluminum is no good for pegs", not "aluminum is no good for street".
my mistake...i corrected myself...


no one is perfect...and im far from it...

no one is perfect
not true, take me for example.....

your all a big bunch of gang bangers

Steel is ass for us 4-peggers. A flatland bike doesn't need to be beefy or particularly strong, but weight adds up FAST with two brakes, four pegs, 8-piece bars, freecoaster, etc. That was the reason I finally built a second bike so I could use one strictly for street and the other strictly for flat...the equipment necessary to ride flat and the strength required to handle street made a TANK out of my bike.

i meant aluminium is no good for STREET...as in a concrete ledge would TEAR them up...for park there probly good...and as far as flatland..i didnt know..thats why i put..I THINK...

read JMC's post. i also run aluminiums and street does NOT tear them up. concrete ledges and all.

if you want great pegs...get the Kink pegs...not the light ones though...the O.G's they have a lifetime warranty of grinding through...and there smooth and have the anit-spin pins like your talking about...
those are the oens i have - and have had them for a long time now :)

Steel, smooth. No reason to mess with Ti, sleeved, knurled, aluminum...just get steel and smooth. The anti-roll pin just keeps it from spinning in the dropout (it'll make perfect sense when you pick up a pair) and you've got 3 holes to stick the pin so you don't gotta throw away your peg once it's worn down on one side, you just put the pin in another hole and spin the peg.

steel is heavy some times. Ti pegs are ok if you ride park and knurled are usually found on old POS dynos aluminum on the other hand are kind of an interesting concept my friend made a pair of aluminum pegs that were thicker than a normal chromo peg and both pegs weighd as much as 1 chromo peg they were strong as chromo cause they were thicker it was a good concept indeed. they needed work. i would have ratherd him make a thin aluminum innner with a sleeve of chromoly thats a bit thicker it would still have been lite but not suicide.

your all a big bunch of gang bangers
i used to ride gang banger pegs back in the day...


there not too good though...

Aluminum slides horribly. Any street riders here would know from their experiences with aluminum rails. You could go about 20 mph towards a rail ( very fast ) , jump on perfect, and you will stop before you get to the end.

Aluminum slides horribly. Any street riders here would know from their experiences with aluminum rails. You could go about 20 mph towards a rail ( very fast ) , jump on perfect, and you will stop before you get to the end.

thats when you get tech and rail ride them.

rail rides are so hard. i once did a feeble to railride, but it was a fat rail

Mutiny Ti Fighters were nice...when they still made them...

and dont Ti pegs slide slow too?


once again...KINK PEGS ARE THE WAY TO GO...lifetime warranty

Mutiny Ti Fighters were nice...when they still made them...

and dont Ti pegs slide slow too?


once again...KINK PEGS ARE THE WAY TO GO...lifetime warranty


I don't know what's up with that warranty. I need two new pegs every month. i wear the pegs on my right very quick from grinding concrete. my front-left peg only grinds metal objects

rail rides are so hard. i once did a feeble to railride, but it was a fat rail

for people like us yes.... but for steve hamilton a railride 180 out is a daily thing.

he's a pegless rider. when he rides street, he most likely focuses most on wallrides,railrides and manuals. I ride three pegs. i grind everything in sight. edwins style kinda rubbed off on me, I try to throw a barspin or a 180 out of everything