Classic & Vintage - Vintage Peugeot!

Hello all, I'm looking for some info on this Peugeot I just picked up. From what I've read online, it seems there were many different models in this era, and I'm trying to get some specifics about this one. It has the simplex derailleurs, atax bars/stem, and I'm not sure on the cranks or BB. The wheels have machined divots in them where the brake pads make contact, I'm assuming for more friction. Any more info for me?

http://65.18.189.111/gallery/albums/album01/peugeot_001.jpg

http://65.18.189.111/gallery/albums/album01/peugeot_002.jpg

http://65.18.189.111/gallery/albums/album01/peugeot_003.jpg

http://65.18.189.111/gallery/albums/album01/peugeot_004.jpg

http://65.18.189.111/gallery/albums/album01/peugeot_005.jpg

http://65.18.189.111/gallery/albums/album01/peugeot_006.jpg

http://65.18.189.111/gallery/albums/album01/peugeot_007.jpg

Looks like a mid to late 1970s lower level Peugeot.

mid/late seventies UO9. A step up from the venerable, comfortable, and reliable UO8 (I Just rode a converted-to-a-fixie UO8 about twenty miles tonight). The big difference between the bikes is the Stronglight TS cotterless crank on yours. Warning: that crank takes a specialized remover, 23.35mm. I believe biketoolsetc.com still sell them, pricey at about 30.00, but absolutely necessary if you want to get the crank off.

The rims are steel; due to the less than stellar braking properties of steel rims, if you want to make the bike a rider, switch out the rims for alloy ones. Front dropouts are likely spaced at 96mm, but this can be gotten around easily enough.

I hear these bikes are great candidates for fixie conversions. What do you think of it poguemahone? I hear the sizes are sometimes uncommon.

You know, I'm not positive on my crank ID. You might want to take the dustcaps from another bike and see if they thread into this crank. I just looked at a couple of Stonglight TSs, and they look subtly different than yours. If it's a SL, the dust caps will just drop in; the opening will be to large for standard 22mm dust caps.

This bike will have typical French thread issues in the bottom bracket and in the headset. However, these components on these bikes are near-indestrucible steel tanks, and take a lot of abuse before wearing out. If yours are good, put new bearings and grease in them and go.

I believe it's an old TA.

If the cranks are not TSs, will I still need the special remover? Also, based on what I have here, is this bike a good candidate for fixed? That's what I had intended when I purchased it, but I don't want to tear it apart, if it will make a good resto...

If they're TAs, you need a different specialized remover (23mm). Cheaper and available thru biketoolsetc.com. The Stronglights were stock on UO9s, hence my guess. And they look like the Stronglight TSs, but just only. Just enough diffs so I may be wrong, or it may be earlier than the ones I have. Look on your dustcaps for the cranks or on the back of them, the maker's name may be in one of those two places.

They're good urban bikes, either fixed or geared, but please, if you're going to make it a rider, get rid of the steel rims. I like vintage stuff fine, but I draw the line at riding on steel rims.

The only markings I've seen on the cranks are "Nervar France" on the dust caps, and B.S.A. I believe on one of the arms...

okay. The bike may be an upgraded uo8, which is what a UO9 is anyway. Or the UO9 came with Nervar cotterless one year, who knows. Or they ran out of TSs at the factory and used Nervar as an alternate supplier, which certainly isn't unprecedented. Try a regular 22 mm remover on them (or the dustcap suggestion above; if they're 22 they will take just about any dustcap besides a Stronglight or TA, which will be too big); if it's too small to thread in, you're talking either a TA or Stronglight remover. According to Sutherland's, Nervar cranks take the standard 22mm remover, so I think your cranks would be standard.

BTW, how did you set up that UO8 as a fixed gear with the vertical dropouts? Did you just sacrifice chain tensioning adjustments?

? Every UO8 I've seen has horizontal drops. Yours look horizontal/semi horizontal to me-- ince you take off the derailleur claw, you should have a nice long drop to adjust tension with. Vertical drops didn't really come into vogue until the early 90s, I think.

Ah, I see what you're saying. They're not quite vertical, not quite horizontal. I see the plastic spacer in there, and I can imagine there is plenty of adjustment once that's out. Do you have any pictures of your FG UO8 that I could see for reference? Thanks for all your answers, you've been extremely helpful to a newbie :)

This is probably best dealt with on the fixie board; here's a thread which will answer some of your questions while confusing you even more. Rest assured you are not alone:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=118830

Hey, just figured I'd drop by with an update. Here's my Pug, all set up as a fixie. I'm really happy with it so far, although there's still a bunch I want to change. I do have one question for you guys, and that's if you know where to find the tool to tighten the chainring bolts? Last 2 pics show what I'm talking about. TIA!

where to find the tool to tighten the chainring bolts?

Old screwdriver and a bench grinder.

or you can just buy one, I have a Sugino one that cost about a buck ninety five.

Yeah, on bikepartsetc.com it looks like the one I'd need is the Campy one... most of the others have a third peg in the middle, which will not work with my set up. They just happen to be out of the Campy tool... oh well, I'll check the LBS. Thanks!

Nice long touring wheelbase on that bike!

As I've said, bikepartsetc is out of the Campy tool (the one I would need). I've found it on ebuy but for nearly double the price. I've looked around, and only been able to find it on European pages. Are there any other places in the states that may have this in stock, for a reasonable price? Thanks!