Folding Bikes - Downtube folding bike

This might be your solution. About $10 from Nashbar.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/sesamecrunch/NS-ERB.gif

Yup, I saw something like that, but with a lower height. I'll just rotate it a bit towards the back to lessen the reach. BRILLIANT!

Hi Do you know if one can pack a FS 2007 in a similar-sized suitcase? I am asking because it looks like it may have fatter parts. I have not bought it - but considering buying it ... if I can take it with me in air travels (with no extra charge, as a checked in luggage) that will convince me to buy it

Hi Do you know if one can pack a FS 2007 in a similar-sized suitcase? I am asking because it looks like it may have fatter parts. I have not bought it - but considering buying it ... if I can take it with me in air travels (with no extra charge, as a checked in luggage) that will convince me to buy it

I packed a 2006 FS with a Samsonite Oyster 29. Got everything in except for one wheel, which I put in another case. I spent about 30 minutes doing that. I don't know if I could have fit the wheel in if I had spent another 20 minutes scratching my head.

Thanks .. do you think it is possible (with deflated tires etc) to put it in a slightly bigger (but almost within the airline standards - like the blue on the the post with pictures) suitcase? Since you tried doing it, you may have a good idea if it was possible if you started with a bigger one.

Thanks for your comment.. anybody else with any experience?

Are dahons better for this purpose (airline travel packing etc) .. any advise ? I really dont want to go to smaller (16") wheels .. in fact 20" looks a little small .. but i guess anything bigger will definitely not suit the purpose (air travel)

Thanks .. do you think it is possible (with deflated tires etc) to put it in a slightly bigger (but almost within the airline standards - like the blue on the the post with pictures) suitcase?


It's possible it will fit into the F'Lite. I know I was very close to getting everything into the Oyster. Oh, I did not remove the swing arm (by removing one large bolt). I think others will say that if you do that, you can fit the whole bike in.

Would you consider getting the Front Suspension? It's smaller, a little lighter, and is certainly comfortable for most riding situations.

It's possible it will fit into the F'Lite. I know I was very close to getting everything into the Oyster. Oh, I did not remove the swing arm (by removing one large bolt). I think others will say that if you do that, you can fit the whole bike in.

Would you consider getting the Front Suspension? It's smaller, a little lighter, and is certainly comfortable for most riding situations.

Hmm .. now I am seriously thinking of just Front Susp. Like this one:

Downtube 2007 VIIIH ( front suspension Sturmey Archer hub) Folding Bicycle (http://www.downtube.com/Downtube_2007_VIIIH_front_suspension_internal_hub_Bike_VIIIH.html)

I really like the silver color.. and it says its "maintenance free" (is that for real ?) .. and it is just front suspension, like you said .. do you think this one will fit ?

and thanks for your replies .. really ..

Hmm .. now I am seriously thinking of just Front Susp. Like this one:

Downtube 2007 VIIIH ( front suspension Sturmey Archer hub) Folding Bicycle (http://www.downtube.com/Downtube_2007_VIIIH_front_suspension_internal_hub_Bike_VIIIH.html)

I really like the silver color.. and it says its "maintenance free" (is that for real ?) .. and it is just front suspension, like you said .. do you think this one will fit ?

and thanks for your replies .. really ..

Ding, ding, ding!! You hit the jackpot. This is my favorite bike in the DT lineup. It's the one I ride the most now. The internal hub is maintenance free and much less hassle when folding or packing. Here is a detailed review:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=215537&highlight=downtube+VIIIH+internal+hub
You'll see very strong enthusiasm for that bike.

The pictures of the bike packed above are of the VIIIH, so you know it can be packed.

Good luck.

I have the F'Lite (blue) and Oyster (yellow orange) suitcases side-by-side downstairs and I am suprised at how much deeper the F'Lite is. The pictures I posted earlier don't show this. The FLite is a little narrower, but taller and deeper making it much easier to fit a folder in. With the Oyster it seems like there is only one way to make it fit. Anything else and it is too tall for the suitcase. The F'Lite, while technically not within specs for normal luggage, is only a tiny bit bigger and much easier to pack. Several people here have posted no problems flying with a bike in a F'Lite with no extra $$ charges. I will post a pix of the two side-by-side sometime next week.

PS - I really like the DT VIIIH. Sixth gear is a bit fussy, and you need a 38 or 39 tooth chainring, but it's a great riding bike. Like many here, I can't resist trying more, so I have ordered a DT Mini with the 8-speed SA hub which should get to me next week sometime. I'm curious to see how they compare.

Like many here, I can't resist trying more, so I have ordered a DT Mini with the 8-speed SA hub which should get to me next week sometime.

I know the feeling. I'm lusting after the Mini also. I had bought one for my mother-in-law, but I want one for myself, er, umm, I mean my wife.

Downtubes are like potato chips, I can't have just one.

I know the feeling. I'm lusting after the Mini also. I had bought one for my mother-in-law, but I want one for myself, er, umm, I mean my wife.

Downtubes are like potato chips, I can't have just one.

Yes, Sesame. Get one for the wife! I in turn am getting it 'for my son!' This really does not help the addiction. I can't seem to stop!!!

Also, have you or anyone in the forum found an alternative to the locking system (ala Dahon)? I must have missed that mod. Thanks in advance.

It's possible it will fit into the F'Lite. I know I was very close to getting everything into the Oyster. Oh, I did not remove the swing arm (by removing one large bolt). I think others will say that if you do that, you can fit the whole bike in.
SC, have you tried packing your recumbent (cruzbike) DT into a F'lite? Is it possible to fit bike and recumbent seat in???
Thanks

I have the F'Lite (blue) and Oyster (yellow orange) suitcases side-by-side downstairs and I am suprised at how much deeper the F'Lite is. The pictures I posted earlier don't show this. The FLite is a little narrower, but taller and deeper making it much easier to fit a folder in. With the Oyster it seems like there is only one way to make it fit. Anything else and it is too tall for the suitcase. The F'Lite, while technically not within specs for normal luggage, is only a tiny bit bigger and much easier to pack. Several people here have posted no problems flying with a bike in a F'Lite with no extra $$ charges. I will post a pix of the two side-by-side sometime next week.

PS - I really like the DT VIIIH. Sixth gear is a bit fussy, and you need a 38 or 39 tooth chainring, but it's a great riding bike. Like many here, I can't resist trying more, so I have ordered a DT Mini with the 8-speed SA hub which should get to me next week sometime. I'm curious to see how they compare.

Thanks a lot .. i will wait for the pix!

SC, have you tried packing your recumbent (cruzbike) DT into a F'lite? Is it possible to fit bike and recumbent seat in???
Thanks
I haven't tried it. The bike may fit in (because the front triangle disassembles easily), but I doubt the seat would go into the same case. The seat breaks down into two pieces, but there still is some depth to it, so it may not squeeze in. I don't have a FLite, so I can't be sure.

Yes, Sesame. Get one for the wife! I in turn am getting it 'for my son!' This really does not help the addiction. I can't seem to stop!!!


I think I'm going do it. Will order it on Tuesday. What the heck, I love my wife and she deserves the best, right?

At least you only have one wife...

At least you only have one wife...

Yeah, as opposed to your 17 girlfriends :D .

Hello again,

I received my VIIIH on Friday, and already have 30 miles on it. Rides very nicely, only the looks from some onlookers reminds me that this is a 20" wheel bike. Although it is harder on the bottom on rough terrain that a 26".

The first question I have is whether there should be anything in the box apart from the slim manual. There was a plastic bag inside, however it was empty. Shouldn't there be component manuals at least?

The SA 8-speed (XRF8?) hub seems sensitive to adjustment. With my marks lined up perfectly 9to the naked eye), there is the occasional stutter in 5th (stays in 5th though). Earlier with my marks off no more than 2 mm, all kinds of noises when shifting in the 4-5-6 range - that on light test riding in the alley. Any tricks to adjusting this?

You'll have shifter cable stretch over the first hundred miles or so, as with any cable. I would avoid shifting under power ... all gear hubs wear faster with power shifts, some will fail when relatively new as a result, and some will simply not shift under power (but are still cumulatively damaged by shifting under power).

It looks like a Dahon wanna-be. It resembles my Dahon Boardwalk.

I've got both the Downtube VIIIH and the Dahon Vitesse 7. Both are good bikes. The Dahon rides like a folding bike and is dependable. The Downtube has what it takes to be your only bike.

Hello again,

I received my VIIIH on Friday, and already have 30 miles on it. Rides very nicely, only the looks from some onlookers reminds me that this is a 20" wheel bike. Although it is harder on the bottom on rough terrain that a 26".

The first question I have is whether there should be anything in the box apart from the slim manual. There was a plastic bag inside, however it was empty. Shouldn't there be component manuals at least?

The SA 8-speed (XRF8?) hub seems sensitive to adjustment. With my marks lined up perfectly 9to the naked eye), there is the occasional stutter in 5th (stays in 5th though). Earlier with my marks off no more than 2 mm, all kinds of noises when shifting in the 4-5-6 range - that on light test riding in the alley. Any tricks to adjusting this?

Hi. I have a VIIIH and a Mini, both with the SA-8 hub. I've found that you have to center the shifter marks as precisely as possible and make sure you get the lock nut secure (if it's loose at all, you will lose your alignment). I agree that cable stretch is a problem in the first few miles.

The other thing I've found is that it takes very little pressure on the shifter to cause slippage / misalignment. Make sure you aren't inadvertently applying pressure to the shifter, especially if you are standing up. Since I've become aware of this problem, it doesn't happen as much. I think because I'm aware, I make sure not to grip shifter without having to constantly think about it.

The other thing I've found is that it takes very little pressure on the shifter to cause slippage / misalignment. Make sure you aren't inadvertently applying pressure to the shifter, especially if you are standing up. Since I've become aware of this problem, it doesn't happen as much. I think because I'm aware, I make sure not to grip shifter without having to constantly think about it.

+1! Absolutely critical advice.

Here is a revised description of how to remove the shift cable on the Sturmey Archer 8-speed hub found on Downtube VIIIs. Sorry for the error in my previous post... there is no lever to push.

First shift the bike into 8th gear to get as much tension off the cable as possible.

Pull the shift cable end towards the rear of the bike. You should see a black ring rotating counter-clockwise as you pull the cable. You can pull it with your fingers, but a pair of pliers would make it easier. Rotate the black ring at least a few inches/ a quarter turn. Push down on the black ring with your fingers, a screwdriver, small piece of wood, etc. to keep the ring from turning. Pull the cable end nut out of the bracket in the black ring. You should end up with something that looks like this.

http://home.wavecable.com/~spholmen/things/SA8_annotated.jpg

To get the cable end back in, reverse the procedure. You can push on the back ring with a screwdriver or small piece of wood at the point shown in the picture. Pull the cable up and around the black ring and set the nut into its holder.

If this isn't clear, I'll try again...

I tried doing this and the problem is that the cable is still connected to the barrel adjuster, which is connected to the hub via a piece of plastic. So the shift cable isn't really disconnect. You get enough slack to get the wheel out of the dropouts, which is good for changing a tire, but you can't, for example, separate the wheel from the frame completely. :(

I tried doing this and the problem is that the cable is still connected to the barrel adjuster, which is connected to the hub via a piece of plastic. So the shift cable isn't really disconnect. You get enough slack to get the wheel out of the dropouts, which is good for changing a tire, but you can't, for example, separate the wheel from the frame completely. :(

I'm not sure why you can't get the wheel away from the frame. The shift cable, barrel adjuster, etc. stays with the bike frame. On mine I just pull down on the cable end after it is off the hub and the cable is free of the hub. Maybe the two sides of the slot the cable goes in on the hub have been pushed together. If that is the case you can use the flat tip of a regular screwdriver to pry them apart. The slot width should be about 0.5mm which is just wide enough to let the cable go in and out.

Maybe you could post a pix of the problem area?

I'm not sure why you can't get the wheel away from the frame. The shift cable, barrel adjuster, etc. stays with the bike frame. On mine I just pull down on the cable end after it is off the hub and the cable is free of the hub. Maybe the two sides of the slot the cable goes in on the hub have been pushed together. If that is the case you can use the flat tip of a regular screwdriver to pry them apart. The slot width should be about 0.5mm which is just wide enough to let the cable go in and out.

Maybe you could post a pix of the problem area?

Nevermind. I figured it out. The barrel adjuster isn't really attached to the plastic piece that says Sturmey Archer (in white lettering). It's just wedged into it. When I pushed the barrel adjuster a little harder it came loose of the plastic piece.

While adjusting the shifting (to line up the yellow marks), it is very hard to turn the barrel adjuster because of the cable tension. I moved the black ring (which is attached to the shifter cable end) with my finger to relieve the tension in the cable, and then the barrel adjuster is much easier to turn.

Hi Makeinu--

It depends on how much you want to adjust when you fold it. If you just fold the bars down, they jut into the rear spokes, so rolling is out of the question. But you also have the option of releasing the upper stem QR and rotating the bars so that they are a bit more out of the way. I mostly have to carry the bike, so I don't bother rotating them. When you carry it this way, the bars jut out behind you, so it's quite easy to carry.

Either way, you'll have to play around with it a bit. Once you get the stem loose, it takes two seconds to adjust it, and it can easily be returned to its original position.

For those of you who are used to a thredless type stem, you might not be familiar with the adjustment procedure. You can adjust the stem by loosening the bolt until it juts up 1cm. Then whack it with something that's not going to damage it. This releases pressure on a plug that anchors the stem to the inside of the fork. You should then (with a good deal of wiggling) be able to turn it side-to-side.

When re-tightening it, make sure that the stem is flush against the headset and give tighten the bolt well. It's critical that the stem be fixed into the tube.

So the only tools you need to flip the stems are a hammer and a 36mm bicycle (ie thin) wrench. Right?

Ok, two days later and i'm about halfway through these posts but i haven't found exactly what I'm looking for. I think SesameCrunch was close. I haven't purchased yet, but i've decided on the NS model. This would be my first folder, and it looks like its every bit as good as my rigid road frame, but smaller, and i'm all for that.

My question:

Has anybody successfully added a double or triple crank with front derailler, and if so, What did it take to make it work? I'm not so concerned about compactness of fold, I just prefer riding up hills and not walking... I dont think i'm being too big of a wuss, I do ride a rigid with 700X25 @105lbs .

Should I just get over it and start the leg workouts? I also kind of just want to see if it can be done, I hate stuff right out of the box and i think if you're going to mod, then this is where it ought to be...
(http://www.bikeforums.net/member.php?u=37229) (http://www.bikeforums.net/member.php?u=37229)

I just prefer riding up hills and not walking... I dont think i'm being too big of a wuss, I do ride a rigid with 700X25 @105lbs .

Should I just get over it and start the leg workouts?

The gearing on the NS is quite low... I'm riding a stock NS on my daily commute including a 300ft elevation gain in 1/2 mile including a short 17% grade section. I'm able to do about half the hill in the 2nd lowest gear, then I hit the 17% part in the low gear and spin the rest of the hill in the low gear.

The NS is 11-32T rear and 48T front, so gear range is 30-87. If anything, a taller high gear would be nice but I don't need it for my short commutes.

Quick basic derailleur question. on my DT IXNS, the bottom/front sprocket of the derailleur is pointing to the right of the front cassette, by a few degrees. This is most pronounced in low gear where the sprocket is way in front of the rear cassette, but still is there when in high gear and the sprocket is 'under' the hub. The chain seems to be 'falling' to the left of the sprocket.

So I presume that the hanger is bent, and needs to be twisted slightly so that the sprocket points towards the front cassette? I think I saw earlier in the thread that the hanger is soft aluminum and should be bendable, right?

Is it possible that another part is bent and not the hanger, like the metal parts connecting the two derailleur sprockets?

Update: I took off the derailleur and slightly corrected the hanger angle (easy). The chain is so smooooth and quiet now. I'm still not proficient with derailleur adjustments so I still have to fine-tune the shifting, but the cable had stretched after 200 miles that I had to take in some slack at the hexnut so I could use the barrel adjuster for fine-tuning again.

So I bit the bullet and bought a Downtube folder with front suspension only. Here is my hopefully objective take on the bike (long, but hopefully worth a read if you are considering one of these bikes):

First of all, delivery was fast. I'd actually sent an email to Downtube about the delivery as I'd not received any confirmation, and I was wondering if the bike had shipped. The very day I'd called, the bike was waiting for me at home (yippee!). The bike came in a large cardboard box -probably bigger than you might think, but everything was well packed. The bike included a folding bag, bar ends, bell, rack, rear fender -I thought it was a neat little package that is everything a person would need, and the price is extremely competitive as well. After unpacking the bike, I'd say it took me 15-30 minutes to get it ready to ride. For a sense of perspective, I do build bikes and believe I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but even so, I think the process was painless.


Expectations:
-------------
Even though the Downtube is cheap, I expect things to work and for the intended functionality to be adequate. In previous posts I've read (can't remember whether it was this board or not) I recall some people replying to posts where a component or bike doesn't work with "but it's a cheap [insert object here], so what do you expect?" as though if you pay a lesser price it almost means you can't expect it to work. Bumpf! Just my opinion, but even if I buy something at a lesser price, I expect it to work as advertized (or else why would you buy it?). Now having said that, for a lower price I certainly do not expect to see multi-tone beautiful paint work or XTR/Durace components, the best welds, lightest weight, the same level of service, component longevity or smoothness, etc.... you get the picture.


First impressions-
-----------------
The good:
-Easy to assemble from packaging
-Nice folding hinges, very easy to operate
-Very stable feel on the road, with good solid feeling handlebars
-Nice extras included such as the carry bag, bar ends and rack.
-The bike came in gloss black, and add in the faux carbon fibre appearance of the shifter and rear derailleur, I was truly impressed with the initial looks.
-I was pleasantly surprized with the front shock, it doesn't seem bad at all!
-the saddle is really very nice -that took me aback a little bit in a very positive way (of course, saddles are very individualistic, so the saddle may not thrill someone else).
-the headset seems pretty smooth
-for a precaution I did clean and relube both wheel bearings, but I think they were pretty well adjusted and lubed.
-The bike met all my expectations except one (see below), and I was very happy!

The not-so-good:
-Inspecting the bike a little more closely, I noticed there were quite a few areas where the paint was flecked, and very rough. However, again, given the price, this is a nitpicking and does not effect the bike's functionality, so this really doesn't bother me.
-Without a doubt for me, the worst component part of this bike is the front crank. As a crank I believe it's barely adequate, and I noticed the ring was warped -about a millimetre or perhaps two when I spun it, resulting in a rougher but working drivechain.
-And the drivechain was not smooth, even after fine adjustments (even though the packing was good, it still looked as though the rear derailleur had been knocked with the hanger slightly bent, which I easily bent back into shape.)
-The bike is a little cumbersome to fold and put in the carry bag, but I think this is nitpicking -once you get used to a system things always get easier and faster.
-The brakes tended to stick, and were unresponsive to changing tension on either side with the adjustments. Yes they worked, but were barely adequately for me (though in retrospect, this could have something to do with the rear fender, read "Other Comments").
-The folding pedals are rough, and are not very smooth to spin. But again, they work!
-The worst thing I found on the bike was that when the chain was in the smallest cog at the rear, it was hitting the rear seatstay/chainstay where a rather clumsy fat weld was too wide. This was the only real thing that disappointed me about the bike -as mentioned in my expectations of a product, even though this bike is a bargain price, I do expect it to work adequately, and this is one thing that did not and (to me) was unacceptable.


What I've Done:
---------------
i. Well, after reading the posts on this board, I was concerned about the bottom bracket and the threads. To this end, I put the bike into my LBS to get not only the existing bb removed, but also the threads chased if necessary and a new single speed Sugino crank and bottom bracket installed. Usually, I'd do this myself, but with reports of the BB being overtorqued and after an initial try seemed to confirm this, I thought the LBS was the way to go. Total cost: $135
ii. I replaced the existing SunRace cassette with an SRAM cassette from my LBS. Though there didn't appear to be anything wrong with the SunRace cassette, and it did work, I just trust SRAM cassettes much more (I'll keep that SunRace cassette for a beater bike or ebay it). Total cost: $52
iii. Well, why not replace the other parts of the drivechain? I added a Shimano 105 long cage rear derailleur (had in my parts drawer so no cost) and an SRAM Centera shifter. Perhaps I was giving short shrift to the SunRace/Juju derailleur and shifter, but for the cost, I thought it was worth it. Total cost: $14 including shipping from Ebay
iv. After adding Koolstop brake pads (already had from my parts drawer so no cost) and experiencing brake shudder and squeal, I bought a Tektro brakeset from craigslist. Total cost: $15
v. I filed about a 1.0mm square area about 0.5 mm deep from of the ugly big weld at the rear triangle to avoid the chain hitting it. Problem solved!

Total cost for upgrades: ~$215.00


Other Comments:
----------------
I had a bit of trouble installing new brakes I tried Shimano Deore and a Tektro set of v-brakes on the bike in an attempt to stop the squealing). When I installed the Tektro brakes, they strangely, mysteriously and miraculously seemed to stick, even with the tension set at the maximum. Very puzzling, and even more so as when I released the brake noodle, the brakes really seemed to have a good "springiness" to them. It took me about 20 minutes of puzzling about this to realize the problem: there is a raised kind of rivet on the fender -the brake arm was rubbing and catching on it! Solution: remove fender (hey, I wasn't planning to cycle in the rain anyway).

The standard brake levers also have a mysterious and magical habit: there are allen head screws that adjust the levers closer to your hand as they are screwed in (effectively reducing the amount of brake pull, and this sort of adjustment has never been much use to me, but I digress), and these screws automtically screw themselves in adjusting the brake lever as you ride the bike and brake. Very strange! Solution: I simply removed the small allen head screw adjusters (could have put threadlok on there, but honestly as I said, I never need to make this adjustment anyway and of course it's probably saved a full 1.5grams of weight).


Summary:
---------
As I've mentioned, overall I'm extremely happy with the bike. There is no doubt to me the strength of the bike lies with its frame and design, as quite frankly, some of the components -notably the drivechain -are just barely adequate. I loved the steering assembly though, and the seatpost seems very nice too. For the price, there is no doubt that this bike is about as well specced as can be expected, providing an excellent frame to upgrade on. And after spending the $215.00 on the drivechain upgrades, I can truly say the drivechain shifts like butter. I'm a very happy customer and would recommend a Downtube to someone else, though admittedly with reservations about the drivechain (I also wonder since I like my bike drivechains "perfect" whether or not a novice or very casual rider would even notice what I did).


Suggestions for Yan at Downtube:
--------------------------------
Now, assuming Yan reads these, I have to say to Yan that I am not, nor have I ever been, a bicycle retailer. So I'm sure some of these suggestions may not be practical or have not been proven business-wise -so take with a grain of salt!

(i.) Provide email confirmation of when a bike is shipped (actually since I am in software development, I do think this could be doable of all the suggestions here)
(ii.) I honestly don't like the front crank; I know that being able to put out a 9-speed drivechain can be a big apparent value add on a folder, but I honestly would have much preferred a 7-8 speed drivechain with a nicer crank. I would have also been prepared to have paid a little extra if that crank was nicer. The whole idea here is that I think that for the price of a Downtube, a 9 speed drivechain just means something somewhere isn't going to be very good. I'd even would be happy to have no carry bag, rack and barends just to get a nicer crank.
(iii.) Following on from (ii.), it would be nice to see the availability of an "upgrade" package with higher quaility drivechain components. I assume the problem here is that the business model with the manufacturing source just can't make this a practical reality.... but it would still be nice!
(iv.) And following on from (iii.), the availability of the frame and fork only would make an interesting product (and perhaps more doable than an upgrade componet package?)
(v.) I haven't tried it yet.... but I'm not looking forward to this..... but it would be nice to see on the web site a guide with photos on how to fold the carry bag up properly (and mind you, this is coming from a person who *does* fold up maps properly!)
(vi.) Ask that rather large burly Chinese guy to take it easy with the bb tightening.....
(vii.) Ordering from the web site was easy -but it might be nice to have a list of associated items on the bike page as well so that you can easily add to the shopping cart (like Amazon).

Thanks for the feedback. We appreciate it and will use it to make our bikes better in the future. See my comments below:




Suggestions for Yan at Downtube:
--------------------------------
Now, assuming Yan reads these, I have to say to Yan that I am not, nor have I ever been, a bicycle retailer. So I'm sure some of these suggestions may not be practical or have not been proven business-wise -so take with a grain of salt!

(i.) Provide email confirmation of when a bike is shipped (actually since I am in software development, I do think this could be doable of all the suggestions here)

FYI we ship every bike next business day. Unfortunately, we are unable to provide tracking at this time.

(ii.) I honestly don't like the front crank; I know that being able to put out a 9-speed drivechain can be a big apparent value add on a folder, but I honestly would have much preferred a 7-8 speed drivechain with a nicer crank. I would have also been prepared to have paid a little extra if that crank was nicer. The whole idea here is that I think that for the price of a Downtube, a 9 speed drivechain just means something somewhere isn't going to be very good. I'd even would be happy to have no carry bag, rack and barends just to get a nicer crank.

Our 2008 bikes will arrive in a few weeks they will have no carry bag, but have cold forged cranks.

(iii.) Following on from (ii.), it would be nice to see the availability of an "upgrade" package with higher quaility drivechain components. I assume the problem here is that the business model with the manufacturing source just can't make this a practical reality.... but it would still be nice!

We're trying. We upgraded the cranks, BB, stem, and pedals on all 2008 models. Some models get more upgrades.

(iv.) And following on from (iii.), the availability of the frame and fork only would make an interesting product (and perhaps more doable than an upgrade componet package?)

Unfortunately we will not be able to do this anytime soon.

(v.) I haven't tried it yet.... but I'm not looking forward to this..... but it would be nice to see on the web site a guide with photos on how to fold the carry bag up properly (and mind you, this is coming from a person who *does* fold up maps properly!)

Our new FAQ has frame folding instructions, airplane packing instruction, pictures of the FS touring and a mini on a train. I am adding content to the site on a daily basis.

(vi.) Ask that rather large burly Chinese guy to take it easy with the bb tightening.....

Done the proper torque specs will be followed in the future.

(vii.) Ordering from the web site was easy -but it might be nice to have a list of associated items on the bike page as well so that you can easily add to the shopping cart (like Amazon).

Will try.


We understand our bikes are not perfect, however we are trying to make them perfect. Every year we make huge component upgrades. Our 2007's resemble our 2005 bikes, however that is almost the only thing they share. I think the 2008's will bring our bikes to another level, unfortunately the prices will also go up.

Thanks,
Yan

Nigevy:

Thanks for the detailed report! I thought it was fair and balanced (oh, oh, did I violate a trademark?:) ). I hope you have many miles of smiles on it. BTW, we need pictures!!!

Follow up: I got my new Mini yesterday after an interminable wait of one week. Everything is great, just took a little tweaking on the brakes and adjusting the shifters on the internal hub. Then, it was onto all the customizing that is so fun to do on DTs. Pictures and stories on the Mini thread. I may end up selling the VIIIH, 'cause I can just see riding the Mini all the time.

Thanks for the feedback. We appreciate it and will use it to make our bikes better in the future. See my comments below:




We understand our bikes are not perfect, however we are trying to make them perfect. Every year we make huge component upgrades. Our 2007's resemble our 2005 bikes, however that is almost the only thing they share. I think the 2008's will bring our bikes to another level, unfortunately the prices will also go up.

Thanks,
Yan


Yan, Have you ever considered selling just the frameset? It looks like there are several people on here who have changed out their components for their favorites(not necessarily bad parts), as I am also planning to do WHEN I get one of my very own.(sigh)

I would consider buying a Downtube FS frame (oh no, here we go again...ANOTHER bike).

That was one of my suggestions as well. I think Downtube could make a killer frameset product, having got one. I'm guessing the problem might be is that it would only be a product for bike junkies who know how to build up, so would effectively have very limited appeal (I wonder how many bikes Downtube sells that go to "non-bike enthusiasts"?). By not selling a complete bike, I can see that its appeal would be extremely limited -though of course Surly did do that for quite a time with the LHT. Perhaps it's better to spec with some lower end components given the price so you effectively capture both markets -the casual non-bike enthusiast as well as the bike enthusiast who *will* upgrade nonetheless. Just some thoughts......

And thanks for the reply Yan. Best wishes in your business endeavour -I'm very happy with your product!

:eek: 140mm stem! What size road bike are you riding?

The stock DT stem looks like a 100mm. Yes, it's a standard size and you can swap with aftermarket parts.

I'm 6'0" tall, with a 34" real inseam (I'd say pretty standard body proportions). Reach was not a problem for me on the Front Suspension for more aggressive riding. Here's a picture of what I did with mine to make it racier.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e157/sesamecrunch/IMG_1289.jpg

Note the use of the bar-ends to provide extra position for more aero riding position.

The NS is shorter and a more upright seating position. Good for tooling around town. The Front Suspension forks adds over 2lbs, that's why I swapped mine out with the rigid NS forks (after this picture was taken). The NS frame is slightly lighter. I don't know how much.


is this the seatpost that comes with this model by default (or you changed/upgraded it)?

is this the seatpost that comes with this model by default (or you changed/upgraded it)?
It's the standard seatpost that came with the Front Suspension model (purchased in Oct.2006).

In this picture, it's probably extended past the limit line by an inch or so. With the skinny roadie saddle, I didn't quite have enough leg extension. I fortified the post by inserting a wood dowel.

Edit: Ooops corrected the typo on the year.

It's the standard ... ... (purchased in Oct.20006).
Thanks! (you are way ahead of your time ;) )

BTW, I just ordered by 2007 VIIIH model yesterday!

Hi Yan,

Could you give us some more details on the upcoming 2008 bikes? Specifically, I'm looking for a folder with an internal gear hub and 20" wheels and don't need suspension. Will the 2008 line include the hub without the front suspension? Will it still be an SA hub? Should I wait the "few weeks" or go ahead and consider other possibilities?

Thanks.

DOWNTUBE FS IX 2007 REVIEW:

I'll do my best to remain objective in this review.

I exchanged several emails with Yan and Ranny before I came down to PA to pick up a bike. Surprisingly, when I got there, Brian stated they no longer had any bikes in the warehouse nearby. They eventually found one orange one but, it was pretty scratched up out of the box.

I was a bit irked by the fact that there were no boxed up bikes available, as I needed in right away (we were going to the Five Boro the next day, and I didn't bother bringing any of my bikes along, neither did I want to use my cousin's crappy bike). We had many emails between us. I thought I made it clear that when I was coming and that I expected them to have bikes for demo and bikes ready to be purchased (in box).

I ended up buying one orange and one black both were demos already together, both FS IXs. I spoke with Yan by phone in the shop and felt that I should at least get a discount as they were demo's and both were significantly scratched on the frame (even the people running the shop felt I should get a discount). I got really irritated when Yan would only give me $5 discount. He didn't seem to believe me when I told him both bikes were scratched up, never mind they were demos (the orange was assembled a week before, don't know about th black one), eventhough his own employees were my witness.

I purchased the bikes despite my irritated mood, as I wanted them for so long and knowing I was going to modify it anyway. The paint will get scratched in time with the way I ride. I also asked Brian and Ranny to speak with Yan on my behalf. I've dealt with many LBS before, it helps to remain patient. I figured I could always rehash the issue when Yan wasn't busy opening the Oracoke shop. By the way, the people at the shop were very very nice!

**There are certain facts and happenstance that I can not include in this review, as I believe it would infringe on Yan's privacy

They did speak with Yan, and on my way back to NYC, Yan called and apologized and gave me a better discount. Good to know he is a stand up guy in the end!

I've put more than 700Ks on the DT since my purchase, and am thoroughly impressed with the ride and overall quality of the bike. I originally wanted the black colour but loved the ORANGE as it just made me smile. I've demoed a few Dahon's and cheap china town folders. The DT takes them all handsdown.

PROS:

-Price
-Ride --- My girlfriend was literally afraid of her MTB, but loved her black DT and felt very comfortable in it
-Overall quality
-Gear Ratio
-it just looks damn COOL

CONS:

-the paint is faded a bit on the seatpost tube
-the crankset is not very good, I replaced the pedals, and the right side had a loosethread. I wish I could put the pics (I still don't know how to make my camera pics into smaller MBs) here, but the aluminum thread stuck right onto the pedals
-the brakes while adequate could have been better

UPGRADES:

-Titanium handlebar
-shimano LX brakes and brake handles
-generic platform pedals
-50T chainring --- I found the ratios set up more for climbing than cruising speed. I tried the 53T but it was too steep for me, the 50T felt just right.
-L -- bar ends
-cat eye mirrors

WISH LIST:

-Front derailleur
-lighter weight (what can I say, I'm a weight weenie)

OVERALL: Despite a few problems and issues, love the bike. In the end, its hard to convict the little issues and flaws considering how much cheaper it is to comparable Dahon's, Birdy's and Bromptons. The only thing wrong with my DT is that I don't have a spare one... or maybe two. Oh no, I may go the way of Sesame!!!:D

I ended up buying one orange and one black both were demos already together, both FS IXs. I spoke with Yan by phone in the shop and felt that I should at least get a discount as they were demo's and both were significantly scratched on the frame (even the people running the shop felt I should get a discount). I got really irritated when Yan would only give me $5 discount. He didn't seem to believe me when I told him both bikes were scratched up, never mind they were demos (the orange was assembled a week before, don't know about th black one), eventhough his own employees were my witness.

Unfortunately I was in Ocracoke, and I thought the bikes would be ready for you. I am sorry you got a scratched one.

I did not know the bike had a bad scratch when I first talked to you, hence my low offer. Once Brian told me it was worse than I expected I made a more generous offer. I want to apologize for not responding better right away.

Again sorry,
Yan

I wish I could put the pics (I still don't know how to make my camera pics into smaller MBs)

If you are using Windows XP, you can download an add-on from Microsoft, for free that makes your life a lot easier:


Image Resizer
This PowerToy enables you to resize one or many image files with a right-click.

Direct link to download the .exe file from Microsoft (http://download.microsoft.com/download/whistler/Install/2/WXP/EN-US/ImageResizerPowertoySetup.exe)

Hope this helps.

14R

Hey Thanks 14R, will load pics soon.

Yan,

is there a way for you to upload your comercial on Youtube? That will increase awareness of your product and will keep us outside Philly from developing a heart condition.

Yan,

is there a way for you to upload your comercial on Youtube? That will increase awareness of your product and will keep us outside Philly from developing a heart condition.

Will try to do it tomorrow. FYI it is at http://www.downtube.com/Videos

Thanks,
Yan

YAN: we're cool Yan, apology accepted. Not many LBS owners I've dealt with know how to do that, even when warranted.

Don't know if you've been tracking orders from Toronto, but I get stopped a lot (its my daily rider) virtually everyday and sometimes more than once in a given day, and I've referred them to your website.

I just hopped over to the Downtube site and had a question that might benifit others.

YAN

Will this work with your other bikes specificly 2007 NX?
How would it change the ride?
How much does it weigh or can you compare it with the stock stem? thanks


http://downtube.com/images/Bikes2007/Stem_folded_2.jpg
Click to enlarge (javascript:popupWindow('http://www.downtube.com/popup_image.php?image=http://downtube.com/images/Bikes2007/Stem_folded_2.jpg'))
Downtube Folding Stem
$69.00 $49.00 On Sale!
Downtube Folding Alloy Stem

This item was a very pleasant surprise!

I just hopped over to the Downtube site and had a question that might benifit others.

YAN

Will this work with your other bikes specificly 2007 NX?
How would it change the ride?
How much does it weigh or can you compare it with the stock stem? thanks

This item was a very pleasant surprise!

It will kind of work.....let me list the differences.

#1. It is much longer than the 20" wheel bike stems, hence it needs to be cut down.
#2 It accepts a 25.4mm post which will work with a 1" stem not 1 1/8"

I think we will get some 20" alloy stems on the container today. Keep an eye on the website.

Thanks,
Yan

14R... thanks for the help... here are the pics of current DT FS IX.