General Cycling Discussion - Catastrophic Frame Failure! (And yet another heavy guy on a bike thread)

If you want to skip the boring narrative, my question is at the bottom of the post. Thanks!
Warning--the pics are HUGE.

Some of you know I had surgery two weeks ago to repair a hernia, smack dab in the middle of working up to longer rides and working on fat loss. As of today, I weigh 304 pounds, down from a measured 396 on 1 June 2004 (the last time I had the same surgery to repair the same hernia.) Anyway, I've been very careful about recovering, avoiding lifting, etc. Yesterday I did four easy miles with my kids on the bike and felt great, so this morning I got up resolved to go out and go further. I was only going to go 5-6 miles, but when I reached that point, I felt great, so I decided to loop out to the next town over. We just broke a nasty heat wave and it's a good thirty degrees cooler outside today than it was Sunday, so everything felt great, the flowers were waving, the sun was shining, the corn was being corn. . . . and then the irritating little hitch in my pedaling came back.
This started on the last 15-mile ride I did before my surgery when I stood up to do a hill and felt a weird pop and a little slip. I looked down and noticed that the cranks were loose in the bottom bracket, wobbling back and forth, so I put it down to that. Last night, though, before we took the short ride, I tightened that up and it felt great. Couldn't be the problem now. And the closer I got to town, the mushier and more wobbly it felt. It almost felt like something was "resetting" whenever I let up on the pedaling.
So when I got to the little town square, I hopped off and checked the chain, gears, etc. Nothing. Then I looked down and it was staring me right in the face--the seat tube was completely ripped in two right above the weld that held it on the bottom bracket. How I missed that, I don't know, but there must have been a pretty good rend there the whole time. In Huffy's defense, I will say their weld apparently held firm. It was the tube itself that was completely sheared off.


OK, now, this was the August and Venerable Huffy. A 12-year old Huffy from a department store that's far too small for me. It's not a huge loss as bikes go, but it leaves me without a bike until I can get one. I'm going to salvage the upgrades and put them on my wife's cheapie mountain bike so she can put some miles on it with me, but I'm going to the LBS to get something better. I was NOT planning on spending the money this soon, but I know I'll be happier with a better bike and I know I'm going to keep cycling, so it's not a huge loss.

Now, to the question: this has made me rethink my attitude toward big guy bikes. Even at 305, I figured from talking to the guy at the LBS that I could probably ride just about whatever mid-value bike I want without going all the way to the Kona Hoss (or similar, I only mention the Kona because it seems to be the choice of BF uber-clydesdales.) I'm not talking super-lightweight race bikes, here, but certainly entry-level road bikes or some of the faster hybrids. Is that crazy? Or is the Huffy just that crappy?

Part of me says not to base any opinion on the Huffy. It was cheap and I got several years of regular riding out of it, followed by years of neglect and storage and then a flurry of hard riding for a couple of months. But I was not planning on spending this money at this time, and I can't afford to get a replacement and then replace that bike after two more months of riding.


Here's what I want out of my next bike:

I still have over 100 pounds to lose, which means plenty of miles in as much weather as I can. I'm aware the prairie winter is not that far off. I want to be able to ride in anything short of icy, snowy roads.
I want to train for centuries. I've set the goal of completing a metric next May (Tour de Stooges) and the Springfield Century next July.
I need to be able to ride this bike at every weight between 300 and 200 pounds.
I want to keep this thing for years and years if I can. I'm willing to keep it maintained, of course.


Am I crazy to look for all this in one bike? In the opinion of this forum, do I need to buy a bike specifically for my weight? If I do that, is there a Giant entry-level model for my needs? My favorite LBS so far stocks mostly Giant.

there's a big difference in "Duralite High Strength Steel" and a quality tubeset. if you get a good quality frame, i wouldn't be super-worried about structural failure. but i would worry about component durability, specifically wheels, crank & seatpost. i've damaged or destroyed all three at one time or another, and i barely weigh 200 lbs. so i'd make sure to get good quality parts there...

Not to stray off-topic, but that's about the dirtiest goddamn bike frame I have ever seen. 12 years old? Looks like 30 or 40.

See if you can find an old school Schwinn 10spd from the early 80's. They are about 45lbs but are very tough, with all steel parts. I saw 100's over my 10 years as a mechanic and never saw any with frame failures.

Note: Schwinn used to have their own "size" tires and the seat post was smaller than std. for the day and they ofter became lodged in the seat tube.

Don; look at the discussions on 29" bicycles...one such is at:
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-64346

looking at the bike you had any quality mountain, ect. bike will really give you a boost in your biking pleasure. Kudos Sir on your weight loss. KUTGW

My husband weights 297, so I had the same types of questions when shopping for his bike 6 mos ago. The Trek 3500 MTB will hold you, it cost 200.00. Kona makes a model that cost 300.00 -I can't remember which one but I'm trying to find out...I've heard good stuff about it, too. And the Specialized Hardrock has a model that cost around 200.00. The bikes will hold you untill you get to your ideal weight, but because your are putting stress on the frame, and using it as your sole bike, you should expect to upgrade in a few years. But that is a good thing! It will be your reward. The other good thing is that those 3 bikes will be a good investment -virtually problem free for at least the next 3 yrs. Then, you will put it on the back burner in favor of your upgrade. The Walmart bikes will break and cause you more stress the than they are worth. So go to a bike shop and spend a couple hundred for a low grade but half way decent bike with a strong frame. Also, because of your weight, stay away from suspension -both front and rear. That will cause additional maintenance issues. Just go with the hardtail. Let me know how it goes.

Here is what you should do. Look up some bike shops in the phone book or local sports magazines. Call ahead and see if they have the brands your are interested in -especially that Kona model MTB that runs for 300.00. Test ride a Kona MTB, Trek 3500 MTB, and the Specialized Hardrock MTB. Come back and tell me your thoughts.
Can you do that?

Giant makes both a touring frame and a cyclocross frame. Both will be built stronger than their ocr/tcr lines.

Not to stray off-topic, but that's about the dirtiest goddamn bike frame I have ever seen. 12 years old? Looks like 30 or 40.
Why, thank you! :) I try.



Here is what you should do. Look up some bike shops in the phone book or local sports magazines. Call ahead and see if they have the brands your are interested in -especially that Kona model MTB that runs for 300.00. Test ride a Kona MTB, Trek 3500 MTB, and the Specialized Hardrock MTB. Come back and tell me your thoughts.
Can you do that?
Uh, yeah, I can do that. You skipped to the end, didn't you? ;)
I don't want a mountain bike; the Huffy is just what I had on hand when I decided to start cycling.

My main question as regards bike brands was whether I REALLY need a Kona Hoss or something similar simply to last under my weight. Upgrading in a few years is no problem, but I didn't want to upgrade and then immediately have to go out and spend more money. Money is tight enough as it is.

Hobo, if I understand correctly, a 29" bike is a frame suitable for cross-country or mountain biking, but it accepts 700mm wheels like a road bike, so I could use roadie wheels and tires but on a beefier frame?

Hobo, if I understand correctly, a 29" bike is a frame suitable for cross-country or mountain biking, but it accepts 700mm wheels like a road bike, so I could use roadie wheels and tires but on a beefier frame?


That's what I've been led to believe as well. The Nishiki Bigfoot-models are about the only ones for sale here in Finland, but they look pretty nice

Link to pic (http://www.leppasenpyora.fi/images/tuotekuvat/bfrace.jpg)

Edit: I checked Sheldon Browns homepage and it says 29" MTB-tires go on wide 700C wheels. Might be difficult to fit a 25mm tire if the rim is wide, but 28 might be appropriate. My hybrid has 700C wheels that will take a 28mm tire but my LBS adviced against putting anything narrower.

Here's what I want out of my next bike:

I still have over 100 pounds to lose, which means plenty of miles in as much weather as I can. I'm aware the prairie winter is not that far off. I want to be able to ride in anything short of icy, snowy roads.
I want to train for centuries. I've set the goal of completing a metric next May (Tour de Stooges) and the Springfield Century next July.
I need to be able to ride this bike at every weight between 300 and 200 pounds.
I want to keep this thing for years and years if I can. I'm willing to keep it maintained, of course.


Am I crazy to look for all this in one bike? In the opinion of this forum, do I need to buy a bike specifically for my weight? If I do that, is there a Giant entry-level model for my needs? My favorite LBS so far stocks mostly Giant.


For a big fella, I'd say get a recumbent bike. I'm not sure which model is rated for someone your size, but for a big fella, the normal seat that a recumbent offers would be a big plus in comfort for you.
I hate to think of 300lbs all on a regular bike saddle. Your poor taint.

I'd say the Easy Racers models would be best for large riders because that's who I see riding them the most. Check out the pick on their webpage.
http://www.easyracers.com/

http://suewidemark.netfirms.com/bent.htm
http://mikebentley.com/bike/bents/
http://www.bikeroute.com/Recumbents/

The farthest I've gone so far is 16 miles, but honestly, I haven't minded the saddle much. I would look into a recumbent, but I don't know much about them. I'll look at the 'bent forum, but I really enjoy riding the traditional bike, so I don't think that's a problem.

I have a somewhat wide saddle on the old Huffy, but I do sit on my "sit bones" on it. The taintal area doesn't really make much contact.

I started the bidding at a $2000 bike over dinner tonight; my wife made a counter offer of $50. We haggled a bit. Eventually I told her I'd go so far as to sell my treasured Glock 30 to get a better bike, but I was going to look at something in the $300-600 range. She was touched by my willingness to part with Mjolnir, so we reached a compromise. I will buy the bike, but I will not sell the gun unless we later find that we need the money. So chances are I'm going to get a new bike and keep the gun, and that's a good deal any way you look at it. ;)

also try here for advice

http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=95

Using the Glock properly you ought to be able to come up with as much money as you need.

;-)

BTW, cleaning your bike periodically is a good idea, if only because it gives you a chance to inspect it while cleaning it. If you had spent some time maintaining that POS Huffy, you might well have spotted the crack before it actually broke through.

Take a look at the Giant website http://www.giantbicycles.com/us/030.000.000/030.000.000.asp Many shops are starting to put them on "end of season" sale. These frames have a lifetime warranty, which makes them a-ok in my book. Check the Cypress Hybrid Comfort (Street Style) We just got one at the LBS for 299.00.

My advice on going to an LBS is explain what you want and see what they have to offer, and if they try to "push" you into something that costs more than you want to spend, or a style you don't like, leave and go to a different one. Remember best price doesn't necessarily = best deal. When you buy a bike from an LBS you kind of buy into the LBS too, most will offer some sort of free service and tune ups for a period of time after purchase. I go to the LBS that is 15 miles away just because I am comfortable with the staff, & service and can trust what they say. There are over a dozen shops in my area and 10 of them are closer, but they couldn't touch the "deal."

Don't know if anyone's mentioned this, but check out the Kona Hoss, it's built for big heavy riders. I have one and I beat the hell out of it whenever I ride it (I'm 225lbs).

BTW, cleaning your bike periodically is a good idea, if only because it gives you a chance to inspect it while cleaning it. If you had spent some time maintaining that POS Huffy, you might well have spotted the crack before it actually broke through.
Good point.

I feel your pain - when I was a little heftier than I am now some LBS joker tried to convince me that first generation carbon fibre bikes were the way to go - even though I found out that the particular one he was trying to sell me was rated of 200 lbs max!

I tried something completely different. I bought a mid priced cyclocross bike. Beefy enough to handle tough conditions and my girth, agile enough with the addition of slicks to do a century. Mine is a Myata alumicross that is still going strong 15 years after I bought it.

I don't know what is on the market nowadays, but look into this option, it might work for you!

I road a Giant OCR for 4 years before I sold it. At the time I weighed in at 299lbs and put 17000mi/yr on it with out any problems. If you get a good bike from a respectable manufacturer it should hold your weight providing you take care of it and do not beat it to death. Meaning, do not even ride off curbs with it because our fat arses put way to much strain on the frames and keep the mechanics tuned and lubed properly.

:beer:

So far I haven't had much call for riding onto or off of curbs, although there are some rough country roads out there and some of the railroad crossings are pretty deep.

I like the idea of the OCR3 if it will hold up to my massive yet delightfully proportioned bulk. But I'll ride other bikes, and if the FCR4 or 3 feels good, I may get it. We'll see.

I hadn't thought about a possible sale for "End of Season" but that sounds good. Maybe I can even find a 2004 or something.

If you want a road bike, get a solid sport touring frame with 36 spoke wheels. You can upgrade and get lighter wheels as you lose weight. I ride a Cannondale R500 with Mavic CXP 10 rims. It is an older bike, but the bike has held up excellently over the last three years, and I weigh just a little less then you do, but started ridng it 35 pounds ago.

When I started 6 years ago, I was 320 pounds. I got a Schwinn Supersport road bike. The 1st wheels that came on the bike, I broke because they were aerodynamic type rims. The 2nd set of wheels I got were basic all around commuting type wheels 36spoked instead of 32 spoked and I'm still riding them. I'm down now to 220 pounds.

In terms of components, I didn't start replacing the derailleurs until 2 years ago, when I decided to change the gearing. The only thing that ever really broke was the front derailleur and I think the bike shop broke that by tightening the clamp down, because I've never done any work on it.

I think it's more quality of bike and how you intend to ride as opposed to your actual weight, because I ride mine in all types of weather

I have a giant OCR touring, great bike, bomb proof. Cept just don't crash it as much as I do.

I am fat too 320 lbs which is about 40 lbs down since end of April. I do 16 miles a day now.

I puchased a MTB Rockhopper 05 because it looked bullet prof. And the fat tires are harder to push down the road.

You don't have to be fat to kill a frame. I broke a frame when I was about 12 years old. Bad weld joint.

You can take you frame to a frame shop and have it welded but it would cost more than the bike is worth.
Joe

I killed a steel frame in the 80s, it was my sponsor's bike and had been welded, well, I rode the thing so much it just cracked again due to fatigue. And I weighed about 110.

I sold a friend who's 265lbs an older Schwinn "cimmeron" I think it was called, mtb, older non suspension type, you can get those all over for $200 or so but the thing is, that was a high end MTB in its time. It's built very well, has what were top of the line componants at the time for mtb's, and very strong wheels. A $200 used old skool mtb that was top of the line in its day, might be a better buy than a new $200 mtb today. Same money though.

Ok, I'm not a big fan of Treks by any stretch of the imagination, but you may want to check out the 7300FX and 7500FX models? The 7500FX with disc brakes doesn't come with the lower spoke count wheels and costs just a bit over $650... the 7300 is considerably cheaper (under $400 if I recall). Specialized makes a Crossroads, Sirrus and Sequoia that would all suit your needs perfectly fine. You could also check out the Gary Fisher Zebrano or Nirvana... not sure on the actual price of them but I'm pretty sure they both clock in under $600. My suggestion would be to stay away from front suspension if possible as it's just going to bob and suck power away from you on the streets. I'm friends with Pwrdbytrd, who is 450 lbs and he complains about that very thing all the time.

Slvoid's suggestion for an OCR Touring is great, but one problem.. Giant stopped making it in '04 and only has smalls left at the moment. Checking Ebay shows an XS, L and XL available, all used of course. It's a very good bike... has 36 spoke wheels and disc brakes along with drop bars and plenty of braze-ons for rack, fenders, 3 water bottles, etc. Stock, they're around $1000 so that's above what you want to spend, obviously. However, you may be able to pick one up used in your intended price range.

Couple of things I've figured out:

1. Recumbents are out. Neat idea, something to keep in mind for the future, but too expensive for the moment. I don't want to wait very long at all to buy this bike because I don't want to lose momentum and start making excuses.

2. I don't have a problem with a used bike, but for now I think I need the help of my LBS. Ebay may be handy later when I know what I'm doing, but not this time.

3. Suspension is definitely a NO. I don't like it and, it seems, neither does anyone here.

The Kona Hoss sounds good.

But if you want something really affordable and frame only i'd check out Surly, they are tough i am not sure what they are rated at but you can just mail them to ask. If you can ride that one it is a great bargain as it is so good you won't need to upgrade,.. well,.. ever. Unless you become a pro biker or something.

Otherwise, definately stick with steel.

If you find that wheels buckle quickly because of your weight, i'd suggest checking my webpage below. 20 inch wheels are tough as coffin nails (BMX... ) and Raleigh Twenty (plus a few other folder frames) are real tough as well (may be hard to believe...)

BTW, cleaning your bike periodically is a good idea, if only because it gives you a chance to inspect it while cleaning it. If you had spent some time maintaining that POS Huffy, you might well have spotted the crack before it actually broke through.

Sounds like good advice, I can tell from looking at the pictures that the frame has been cracked for a long time.

In my experience (260#), just about any modern, mid-level frame will do fine. The wheels are more likely to fail than any properly-constructed frame (department store bikes, Huffy, et-al, I don't consider properly-constructed).

I'm riding a Kona Dew, an Easton aluminum race frame, and a 70's steel Panasonic - no problems. Of course, this is a "statistical sample of one," so take it for what it's worth!

Then I looked down and it was staring me right in the face--the seat tube was completely ripped in two right above the weld that held it on the bottom bracket. How I missed that, I don't know
That is hardly the description of a catastrophic failure. Your frame broke, you noticed someting funny, after a through search you discovered a cracked tube then walked home to your cat/dog/family.
Catastrophic failure mode is a sudden and complete structural failure, eg the fork/stem/handlebar snaps, the carbon-bladed spokes shatter, your crank snaps in half. All of these have happened to riders and dump you off the bike, usually with a horrible injury.

Most modern frames from respected brands are massivly overbuilt and will not fail under hard use. The usual failure point for heavy riders are the wheels which are often badly tensioned on factory bikes. A handbuilt, touring grade wheel will support a big guy + a full camping load. Tandem grade wheels will support 2 big riders + load. A proper bike shop will be able to supply strong wheels.
If you want a total Big Guy bike, besides the Kona there is
http://www.co-motion.com/mazama.html

See if you can find an old school Schwinn 10spd from the early 80's. They are about 45lbs but are very tough,

I have good news for you ... they are not quite as heavy. I my fixed gear conversion is a Traveler from the 70's and is holding up pretty well.

Heavy ... yes, but not 45 pounds. More like high 20's. Good steel as Calimoxo2 said, it will hold up pretty well. Best 50$ you will spend on a frame.

Some of the toughest bikes ever made were the "high quality" steel frame mountain bikes of the 1985 to 1985 era with rigid steel forks. Beefy frames. Beefy rims. Then the "weight weenies" invaded the world of mountain bikes, and today aluminum frames and flexy forks dominate.

I have seen 1990ish Trek mountain bikes in pawn shops in good shape for $75 and in good bike shops (with a tune-up and the shop's guarantee the bike is in good shape) for $150. Sometimes you see them in a Goodwill store for $25 or so.

"Brand Name" steel frame/rigid fork mountain bikes can handle a 300 pound rider, as long as he is riding on pavement or smooth dirt trails. If he wants to do the stuff my nephew does (riding off three foot high loading docks at high speed) than NO bike is gonna hold up for long.

I'd go with cyclocross or rigid mtn bike with slicks for now, especially going into winter. Later it can be used as your spare. At 300 lbs., you are probably beyond design limits of most road bikes in some area or other - frame, wheels, stem, seat, whatever. As you begin to drop that 100 lbs (yes, I believe you can do it) you need something 1) comfortable, 2) efficient and 3) safe. Mtn & cyclo cross are generally more durable, and mtn bike gearing should be looked at as "significant mass gearing" for now. I'm with you on the recumbent issue...no way. You do need to listen to the comments re bike maintenance - you need a precision machine, and you need to maintain it like one (I was talking about the bike, but same applies to your body). All in all, excellent work! Looking forward to reading how the bike buying turns out, and how your riding and weight loss progress. Oh, and sign up for the Chris Carmichael free info on nutrition. It's at http://www.trainright.com/info.asp?action=display&record=443

I weigh in at around 400 lbs and for the past month I've been riding a 2005 Giant Sedona ST with no problems. It's a MTB style hybrid with a steel frame and no suspension, so it can be a bit of a rough ride on gravel and offroad, but it's silky smooth on asphalt. I would look into the Sedona line a bit or the Cypress line if you are looking for a road bike. The Cypress ST looks a lot like my Sedona ST, but with street tires. For the record, my Sedona St cost me $230 + tax and I could have gotten a 2004 model for $219. I would expect the Cypress to be similar in price.

First off, congradulations on losing all of that weight. Sound like you will be successful with the balance. Go for the road bike and maybe the suggestions of others in your weight class who have success with their road bikes.I believe on buying on the internet if possible. I got my Windsor Kennett that way but in your case if you buy locally.If your frame happens to break you have a much better chance of getting a replacement than chasing someone on the internet. Find out up front how long the frame is guaranteed for and make sure they put that info on the invoice.

Department store bikes are what they are. Cheep crap period. There are different types of quality bikes for a reason. You are not going to find a magic bike. But as you are going into winter I would suggest a Trek 7200. Its a hybrid. A cyclocross bike would work too. You dont have to buy new, get a used one. Then start saving your pennys for a nice road bike. A Trek 1000, 1200, or 1500. Unless you got cash for a Madone 5.2. In my opinion stay away from Giant. They're going down the same road Shwinn did. One of our local LBS terminated his contract with Giant. He was getting to many complants and problems from patrions of shoddy craftmanship on the Giants. The owner told me. They make a lot of frames for department store bikes and the quality of the bikes has gone down hill.

Couple of things I've figured out:

1. Recumbents are out. Neat idea, something to keep in mind for the future, but too expensive for the moment. I don't want to wait very long at all to buy this bike because I don't want to lose momentum and start making excuses.

2. I don't have a problem with a used bike, but for now I think I need the help of my LBS. Ebay may be handy later when I know what I'm doing, but not this time.

3. Suspension is definitely a NO. I don't like it and, it seems, neither does anyone here.

Well, cyclocross bikes have come up a couple of times and I have to agree. 2 months ago I was at almost 290 lbs when I decided to get back into cycling after a many year hiatus-- the goal being to drop 100+ pounds and do the Davis double century before I turn 40 (a couple of years before I hit that mark, but I'd like to get a couple of centuries in next year before I try the double). Ended up at a local bike shop after looking at a few hybrids as a "starter" bike with the idea that I'd get a road bike next year. The owner of the bike shop talked me up and showed me a cyclocross bike, a Fuji Cross Comp. Nice rubust frame, stock wheels that can take a bit more weight (I've not had any problems with them as of yet)-- seemed like an ideal starter. MSRP from Fuji is $1000, but since it was an '05 I got it for $800 because they were dumping their stock to get the new models that just came out.

The LBS owner suggested have some wheels custom built because of the weight issue, but said I should try out the stock wheels first and see how they hold up, and he'd trade them in on some custom ones if they didn't stand up.

Anyways, I'm down to ~270 now and the bike has held up fine after a couple of hundred miles. I haven't had a problem with the stock saddle as the shop owner took the time to get everything ajusted. Good luck on finding a new bike and don't let anyone talk you into something you don't want. Get a nice machine that you like, and you'll end up riding it more.

how about a specialized hard rock hard tail mountain bike.. I recently started to ride mountain bikes and for some reason I prefer mountain bikes over road bikes. It doesn;t mean that road are no good but for right now I feel very confortable with mountain bikes.. I have a hard tail moongoose bike. someone mentioned to inspect your bike often.. that's a good point because by doing that then you know when something is wrong.. also I will recommend you to get to kknow how to fix bikes.. that;s not too hard to do.. I have been taken apart many bikes and sell the parts for profit .. is a good way to know more about bikes.. :)

There's always these things...

http://cgi.ebay.com/2008-NEW-ROAD-RACING-BIKE-SHIMANO-MEDIUM-w-WARRANTY_W0QQitemZ150177289703QQihZ005QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I expect flames now, but really, they're cheap and with what I'm guessing is a plain gauge steel frame, should last a while. Weak spots might be the crank, maybe. A LBS might have someting similar in the $200-ish region. Some of the department store bikes that get lambasted here aren't too bad - a bit heavy but far better than what they used to be 20 years ago.

If you have about $1000 to spend, I'd go with a Surly Crosscheck with Shimano Sora triple group, and 40 spoke tandem wheels. It'll last a lifetime, and as you loose weight you can change the wheels out to decent 32 spoke road wheels. Tire clearance for big tires too - you can go almost anywhere with a bike like this.

Do y'all realize this is a 2 year old thread???

Do y'all realize this is a 2 year old thread???

LOL....that is what I was wondering. :D

Yeah, so what the flamin heck did het get in the end? Did he lose weight? Did the Glock get put to use at the LBS or someplace else?

I need answers on this Bat Channel pronto! ;)

the seat tube was completely ripped in two right above the weld that held it on the bottom bracket

I cracked an Electra frame there after a lot of very rough riding. They replaced it free. No injuries, no big deal. Just another part needs fixin'

If you got several YEARS of active riding out of HUFFY, you did good.

WTH? I'm talking to zombies here. Why was this revived? I hate when this happens.

I weigh 330 (not including the 25-40 pound backpack I usually carry) and I ride a Giant Yukon to work every day. I can hear the frame groaning under the strain at times, and I had to replace my pedals when the old pedals broke under heavy cranking stress on a hill, but it still runs even in the Alaska winter. I've also ridden a Cannondale road bike and an old Shogun beater mountain bike, both of which required some extra maintenance. I'd check out the Clydesdale thread for info applicable to heavy cyclists. I'd also look at this site, http://www.supersizedcycles.com/, though the bikes here are very spendy and aren't for entry-level cyclists. I think you can find a workable bike for your size without having to go to the price range on the link I posted.

For the interest of anyone checking this thread out, my sig has a good list of everything Clyde :)

Any decent steel frame should hold up to the abuse your weight will throw at it. the bigger issue is wheels - almost any stock wheels are going to be too cheesy to deal with a 300 pound rider. Hell, most OEM wheels are too crappy for a 150 pound rider. Assuming you don't buy something designed for racing, you shouldn't wind up with super light cranks, seatpost, stem, or bars, so you should be OK on that score. Basically, assume that any wheels that come on a bike you buy are spares and buy some quality wheels, preferably with 36 spokes. You don't need to go totally crazy on th spec. Just reasonable parts that aren't too light and a very good wheelbuilder will get you where you need to be.

And don't assume it is going to take all that long to drop much of that weight. If you are enjoying the riding and can find a way to work it into your lifestyle on a regular basis (try commuting, it is great for this!), you can drop a good bit of that weight in well less than a year, so you may not need a bike for a 300 pounder for long. Bear in mind also that, if you can afford the cash upfront, getting a bike that feels great will make you ride more often, which will cause you to lose weight faster, which means it'll take less time before you can stop worrying about being on the heavy side for your bike. Don't be afraid to pend the money cause if it causes you to drop 50 - 75 pounds and keep it off, it will be worth every penny 100 times over. That's how it was for me, anyway. Spending $2K on a bicycle that I love to ride is nothing compared to the 50 pounds I'll never put back on so long as I own this bike. It was the difference between being obese and being just a little bit stocky, and probably added 20 years to my life expectancy (not factoring in the crazy LA drivers, of course). You can't put a price tag on that, especially if we are talking about being around to watch your kids grow up.

Could you possibly buy a nice pair of walking shoes and/or join a health club and ride an exercise bike this winter and lift weights until you get to a lighter weight? That way you could save money and get a really nice bike. You will undoubtedly continue riding even after your weight goals are met.