Road Bike Racing - What wheelset do you race on?

I currently train and race on my Shimano R550's, which are pretty average. I am about to buy some race wheels and am not sure which way to go. Mavic? Zipp? Any thoughts?

I guess the usual q's come up, why? and budget? and thoughts, well yeah, everyone has a different one. If you can afford them and want them, then yeah, get whatever you want but you gotta ask why? Will it make you faster, probably not. Are they nice to have, sure, I've got a pair of Zipp's but I hold no illusions as to what they do for me, I got then second hand so didn't pay a fortune anyway.

I race on cosmic carbone SL's... I see most popular around here Zipp's, Mavic Cosmic Carbones (normal and SL's), Bontrager and a few others. The carbones tend to hold up better and are somewhat stiffer due to the Al rim and tend to do better in crashes from what I have seen. I have seen many zipps (i.e. the 303 and 404's) die in crit crashes. I have also seen carbones die in crit crashes.

If you have the money then race wheels can help you to a point. You need to be aware though that these wheels are wheels and can be damaged. I do not know what Zipp's crash replacement policy is, Mavic is a new wheel for about half price, i.e. 400 dollars. They do make a difference though, mentally and physically.

You centainly do not need race wheels to be competative in crits though at any level, even 1/2 pro but they help.

If there are any climbs involved I use Campy Neutrons for flatter or rolling courses I use Reynolds Alta's.

I only have one wheelset, Gipiemme Grecal Parades. They aren't light, but they do what they're supposed to do (go around).

I use Bontrager Race wheels. They came with the bike. They are budget wheels which I am not too affraid to loose. I have an old set of Rolf Vectors for the pit or wheel van. I always hear people say how you will be astonished how much better performance you will get with top notch race wheels. I have my doubts about that though I would not mind seeing for my self. But there is no way in hell at this point in my life anyway that I am gonna drop $800 on a wheel set.

i race, train, and ride around with american classic 350's.

32 hole D/A on Open Pros w/GP Supersonic tires. Light & cheap. I used to have a set of Spinery Rev-x wheels. I loved them! Maybe i'll get another set on Ebay.

I use a set of Ksyrium Elite's to race on. I am always worried about breaking spokes and during a race isn't a good time for trouble. They are heavy but durable.

I build all my own wheels and have used Mavic rims for decades. There are plenty of great hubs available and I still prefer Campagnolo. Sometimes use 28's for TT's. Nothing less than 32's for the road.

You get what you pay for with components.........and you should pay for a good hand built wheel. peace of mind is always a bargain: in a race, you have a lot of other stuff to be worrying about, besides whether or not your boutique wheels will handle the terrain.

i race, train, and ride around with american classic 350's.

Wow, you must weigh like 125 lbs. :D

I personally ride the Ksyriums for racing.

I only have one wheelset, Gipiemme Grecal Parades. They aren't light, but they do what they're supposed to do (go around).

Actually these are pretty decent wheels. My wife races with them and loves them.

I race Bontreager X lites on my Trek and my daughter uses Ksyrium SSC SL's on her C-Dale. I've tried her Ksyrium's a few times. They are good wheels but don't seem to compare to the X lites for speed...

Actually these are pretty decent wheels. My wife races with them and loves them.

I race Bontreager X lites on my Trek and my daughter uses Ksyrium SSC SL's on her C-Dale. I've tried her Ksyrium's a few times. They are good wheels but don't seem to compare to the X lites for speed...
really? they're flexy little buggers, especially coming out of the saddle. Suprising since they're pretty beefy (1830g, +-5%), but then again they only have 16 spokes per wheel and I'm a little under 170.

I use Ksyrium SL's because when we do get sagged by our team, that's what the support car carries for swapouts.

You can't do much better than Reynolds Stratus.

Ultegra/Open Pro CDs.

Why? Because I'm broke.

I race & do charity rides on my Rolf Vector Comp wheels with Michelin Pro Race tires

I train on Bontrages Select wheels and Conti 4 season tires

I race on bontrager race lites. I have them so I can have a race only set of tires without bothering with swapping them out every weekend. I found that the new tires made more of a difference than whatever wheels Im using in a crit.

neuvation r350..$359/set, bladed spokes, semi aero, reasonable weight, bomb proof,
look nice too. Can't beat 'em. But it's really all about the motor anyway

Right now I race/fast train on Shimano WH-550 wheels. Ya, they're low end but I like the low spoke count and they came with my bike. When I start losing races by a second or two I might upgrade. My only complaint is that I wish the 550s were a little stiffer but I can live with them.

I think 'race wheels' are a big fat waste of money.

Only if you had to pay for them yourself. :)

My favorite race wheels were Spinergy RevX. I destroyed on set in race crash and got another right after. I'll probably find yet another set this winter on Ebay. I just love the way they rode. Once i upgrade my 8sp DA i'll have to do something with all my Campy wheelsets. I have a set of Record hubs on tubular GL330 rims that are stupid light for handbuilt wheels. Too bad i cant used them anymore.

I gots mavic open pro rims 28f 32r, with Marwi ti spokes, on hugi 240s hubs. And they are great. and FYI I weigh 155lbs

You can't do much better than Reynolds Stratus.
Reynolds Stratus DV-UL (http://www.reynoldscomposites.com/Stratus-DVUL.asp)

I am so old school, I use Mavic GL280's w/ Continental Sprinter tubular tires..

One wheelset - Campy Neutrons. I don't race nearly enough (or well enough) to warrrant "race only" wheels.

On the Grecal Parade issue - I'd have to say they are the worst wheels I've ridden on a road bike. Heavy, noisy and horribly flexy. For the price you could get Open Pro/Record or Open Pro/Dura Ace which are (obviously) awesome wheels.

And they're just plain fugly to boot. :p

On the Grecal Parade issue - I'd have to say they are the worst wheels I've ridden on a road bike. Heavy, noisy and horribly flexy. For the price you could get Open Pro/Record or Open Pro/Dura Ace which are (obviously) awesome wheels.
Damn right! Its too bad they came stock with R800's last year :( One of my riding buddies who runs grecals had a spoke lose tension last night. Now on a Ksyrium or any other quality wheelset, the wheel would still be pretty good. But the grecal sounded like it was going to explode.

really? they're flexy little buggers, especially coming out of the saddle. Suprising since they're pretty beefy (1830g, +-5%), but then again they only have 16 spokes per wheel and I'm a little under 170.

Which wheels are you referring to?

The Gipiemme Grecal Parades, I believe.

are you stoked with your neutrons? My bike came with shimano 550's, I am not racing ,just riding but I want to keep my future options open---wheels are so expensive but my friends say they make a huge difference-------I am riding a Scott CR1 Team so I am considering Campy Neutrons,Zipp 404's and Mavics, anyone else have feedback to share?

are you stoked with your neutrons? My bike came with shimano 550's, I am not racing ,just riding but I want to keep my future options open---wheels are so expensive but my friends say they make a huge difference-------I am riding a Scott CR1 Team so I am considering Campy Neutrons,Zipp 404's and Mavics, anyone else have feedback to share?

I have a set of Neutrons and love them, the hubs are excellent they are strong and light, I'd definately recommend them.

I raced on a set of Reynolds Alta Race at the end of last season and really like them. So much so that I bought a set of Reynolds Stratus Tubies for this season. I've got the Alta's up on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/05-Reynolds-Alta-Race-Wheelset-Campy-Like-New_W0QQitemZ7209073471QQcategoryZ58099QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem at a very reasonable starting bid.

32 hole D/A on Open Pros w/GP Supersonic tires. Light & cheap. I used to have a set of Spinery Rev-x wheels. I loved them! Maybe i'll get another set on Ebay.

I'm riding on a similar set, open pros on dura ace hubs w/ revolution spokes, and michelin pro light tires.

Its not a "race wheelset" exactly, but the reason I got them is so I could have a seperate wheelset with light weight tires and a tight cassette on them. also, its always a good thing to have different training wheels so you got something to put in the wheel pit in case you flat.

I am so old school, I use Mavic GL280's w/ Continental Sprinter tubular tires..Heh, heh.. I've got a similar set of wheels. Built my own tubulars with Mavic 550 hubs and those rims. Replaced with semi-aero M19A-IIs after teh GL280s got toasted. Come to about 1285gm for the pair, not bad for less than $180 in parts. :)

Racing with Zipp 404s. 18F, 24 R with a pave rim. Smooth and fast, brakes well for carbon. Light. Tubulars. Strong. But beware, when carbon breaks, it breaks. It does not bend! Check your wheels for cracks before every race. I haven't had to true them really, they hold up pretty well.

I've got a Zipp rear disc wheel. The thing is fast as blazes. Sick light too, I won a 3/4 race that had a downhill run in (straight line) with it, leading out the sprint.

Aero wheels are a competitive advantage. Period.

Campy Records 10s hubs/open pros for training. 32 spokes in case I break a spoke 45 miles from home I'm not walking/callin'/waitin'.

Wow, you must weigh like 125 lbs. :D

I personally ride the Ksyriums for racing.

what is meant by this? I thought American Classics were high end.

what is meant by this? I thought American Classics were high end.

The 350's favor a lighter rider and aren't your typical everyday/everything wheel.

what is meant by this? I thought American Classics were high end.

Yeah, they are fine wheels, but tend to suit the lighter guys. A few guys on the team, including myself flex the hell out of these wheels in the corners. The lighter guys love them though.

Last season I raced Ksyrium SL's. My new race bike currently has American Classic 420's on it, I'm pretty sure that I'll be racing the 420's this season. So far I love these wheels, they're light, stiff, fast and have a very nice feel to them. I've been contemplating getting a used tubular wheelset for racing, but I'm not sure there's much reason to.

so are the 420s better for heavier riders, like 140-160lbs?

so are the 420s better for heavier riders, like 140-160lbs?
Probably, I weight between 160-165 lbs and I spoke to other riders my size that use these, before I got mine. The 420's have a deeper/aero rim, not sure of the exact depth. They seem fairly "bombproof" so far. Mine are laced with aero spokes, 16 in front and 20 in back. I think the wheelset weight is about 1480 grams, I scored them on eBay, barely used for $300. They do have a reputation not having the most durable bearings. They use a small ball bearing to keep the weight down in hubs, and I've heard that they wear out quicker than others. I plan on having mine relaced to DT 240's if or when the AC hubs wear out.

so are the 420s better for heavier riders, like 140-160lbs?

I raced and trained on a set of 350's for a year, I was 165 at the time. I didn't have an issue with flex, but I upgraded to Sapim X Ray spokes which, from several of the wheelsets I've built, makes a big difference in stiffness.

AC's customer service and warranty was very good from my experience also.

I've got 4 sets of wheels based on their hubs and haven't had any issues, so I'd think their early quality control problems are well out of the way. BTW, the 350's are being spec'd on several "off the rack" bikes in England now.

I raced and trained on a set of 350's for a year, I was 165 at the time. I didn't have an issue with flex, but I upgraded to Sapim X Ray spokes which, from several of the wheelsets I've built, makes a big difference in stiffness.

AC's customer service and warranty was very good from my experience also.

I've got 4 sets of wheels based on their hubs and haven't had any issues, so I'd think their early quality control problems are well out of the way. BTW, the 350's are being spec'd on several "off the rack" bikes in England now.

I'm glad to hear that you haven't had any problems with the AC hubs. Do you do like AC suggests, and keep a little pit of play in the rear hub? I was going to adjust mine and then read that if you adjust the rear hub so that there's no play, you may prematurely wear out the bearings. I'd still like to tighten mine up a hair, but none of the LBS's sell 19mm cone wrenches.

I'm glad to hear that you haven't had any problems with the AC hubs. Do you do like AC suggests, and keep a little pit of play in the rear hub? I was going to adjust mine and then read that if you adjust the rear hub so that there's no play, you may prematurely wear out the bearings. I'd still like to tighten mine up a hair, but none of the LBS's sell 19mm cone wrenches.

Yes, I keep a very slight amount of play in them (very slight). Overtightening puts a constant side load on the bearing, you will get some expansion as the bearings warm up. I swapped several from Shimano spacing to Campy, and tossed the new thrust washer in one other.

You can get 19mm wrenches at Sears, they aren't the thin cone type but they will work. Beyond Bikes has Park 19mm cone wrench for $7.20 + shipping.

You can get 19mm wrenches at Sears, they aren't the thin cone type but they will work. Beyond Bikes has Park 19mm cone wrench for $7.20 + shipping.

Even cheaper from amazon.


http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0007M1WUI/qid=1136495033/sr=8-5/ref=pd_bbs_5/104-1155360-0152748?v=glance&s=sporting-goods&n=507846

Yes, I keep a very slight amount of play in them (very slight). Overtightening puts a constant side load on the bearing, you will get some expansion as the bearings warm up. I swapped several from Shimano spacing to Campy, and tossed the new thrust washer in one other.

You can get 19mm wrenches at Sears, they aren't the thin cone type but they will work. Beyond Bikes has Park 19mm cone wrench for $7.20 + shipping.
I figured I could get the wrenches online, I just haven't bothered. It's good to know that regular open end wrenches work. So far the play hasn't been a problem, I just don't like knowing it's there. Thanks...

Velomax Tempest is what I used last year. A bit on the heavy side but seem to work well. Just bought those $90 Korso's from Supergo. Who knows, I may try racing on them. :D

I use my Reynolds Stratus wheelset. great wheel, light aero and fuggin' fast!

I train on 36 spoke Mavic A719's with 105 hubs, Conti Catorskin 700x25 in the rear and a 'whatever is on sale' in the front (currently Hutchinson Carbon)

I race on 2005 Zipp Clydesdale 404's with Vredestein Fortezza's

Yes, I keep a very slight amount of play in them (very slight). Overtightening puts a constant side load on the bearing, you will get some expansion as the bearings warm up. I swapped several from Shimano spacing to Campy, and tossed the new thrust washer in one other. I doubt the bearings "warm up"... ;) The side-load on the bearings comes from the squeeze of the skewers which shortens the space between the axle-ends. This is the same as with older loose-ball/cone hubs. You have to adjust so that you feel a little bit of play in the axle. Then when you have the skewer barely holding the wheel in the frame, you can feel the lateral play by wiggling the wheel between the brake-pads. Fully tighten down the skewer and all the play goes away immediately.

i cant afford to buy wheels ive still got the old stock wheels. I need to make some more money but considering i am to young to have a job i cant