Bicycle Mechanics - New wheels for an old bike

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Punch Drunk
07-29-05, 08:35 PM
For the sake of argument, suppose that money and feasibility do not apply to this situation.

I have a mid 80's Specialized Expedition, and I've been thinking of getting an alternate set of wheels for the bike. So, what are all the factors to consider? I know the space between the dropouts can be an issue. Getting a 5-speed freewheel isn't too hard, but what about hubs and rims and spokes? Is there a single factor (or two) to focus on which will determine the parameters for the subsequent components?

Whether I do this or not, I just want to know exactly why I should or shouldn't do it.

Thanks!

-gk-

Edit: sorry, this might not have been the best forum

cyclezen
07-29-05, 10:20 PM
Not knowing what a Spec Expedition is - if a road bike then you're dealing with 126mm rear spacing, prolly...
with that you'd have an extensive choice of wheels configd with freewheels - up to a 7 spd. A much smaller choice of some wheels that will be freehub with the same level of choice for the cassette. A freehub for a 126 would be a nice choice if you can live with doing some work to get the cog combo you;d like. The freehub would likely be Shimano Uniglide which is the 'older' cassette std. You can actually use newer Hyperglide cassettes and cogs to config the combo BUT you'll have to grind down the one inside flange that is larger than the rest - unlglide is the same as hyperglide, except for the one large flange on a hyperglide cog. AND you'll have to have the 1st-smallest cog be a unglide - it is the screw-on cog that locks the cassette to the freehub body.
Or you can find uniglide cassettes in some shops and also on ebay.

Other choice are wheels with freewheels, there are still plenty of those around, along with freewheels - easy to find on ebay - from a number of hub manus.

And then you have a choice of sewup (tubulars) rims or clincher.

If an MTB, then most of above is not much help...