Commuting - Newbie trying to avoid danger...

Hi all. I'd like to introduce myself, and ask for some help.

Coming September, I'll be changing jobs and cities, and be about 3 miles from work. And I've decided to get there by... bike! I'm very excited about it, but also a bit nervous, and so I'd like to ask some help. To start, I haven't owned a bike since I was a teenager (ten years ago), and so I need to buy one.

My major goal: safety. Call me strange, but I get kind of scared sharing the road with 4000 pounds of steel cruising by, and so my top concern is a bike that is stable, will keep me up, and will give me enough control, should I need it.

Speed and effeciency are secondary to me - the commute is only about 3 miles each way, I'm in decent shape, and have no desire to fly regardless. There is one fairly large hill at the end, so decent climbing is important. My budget is around $300.

Could I ask for specific bike recommendations? You're talking to a total newbie, so things like "disc brakes", "mountain vs. road", etc. don't mean that much to me. I'd rather someone tell me "Get a Jamis 2.0 Explorer" - and let me know why.

I'm still fairly new myself but I commuted six miles each way on very rolling terrain on a Trek 7200, which cost just under $400, but I believe there are models in the same family that are a little less. The 7200 is considered a hybrid, meaning it is lighter along the lines of a road bike but has an upright seating position and bigger tires, like a mountain bike. It is also geared for commuting and climbing, with enough high and low gears to allow for different terrains. Mine has a front suspension so you don't feel every bump in the road. It is also configured so that you can add a rack for carrying bags or panniers (saddlebags) and fenders, to keep water off of you when it rains or the road is wet.

Make sure you allow enough money in your budget for a helmet and lights and maybe a horn. I also have an orange triangular flag that sticks out horizontally on the left side. I don't care what I look like -- like you, I want to be as safe as possible! Good luck!

Edit: If you haven't already, check out www.sheldonbrown.com for just about anything you want to know about cycling, including a great newbie section.

Once you've got your bike and have ridden it a few times and are comfortable with its operation it is time for a trial run.

Before actually commuting try riding it to and from work on a quiet Sunday morning. Ride just as you would on a normal work day with panniers or bags attached if you are planning to use these. Use this time with little traffic to get a sense how wide the road is and where cars might squeeze you. Scan the surface of the road for any obstructions that cars would be oblivious to but could bring down a cyclist (e.g., sewer grates, pot holes, etc .).

Once you are comfortable with the route then you can add rush hour traffic to the mix. How traffic behaves along a certain section of road is really quite as predictable as the tides. You may find, after a while, that you can even tell the time and day of the week by how "aggresive" the cars are in passing you.

Here is my route : http://tinyurl.com/d6eq7

I've ridden this for nearly 2 years now and could almost do it with my eyes closed at the hieght of rush hour (with or without Cheney's armored convoy in the way!). Yet - if I take another route straight through town I will tense up a bit and ride with much more alertness as I am neither sure of the road nor knowledgeable about the flow of traffic.

Thanks for the tips.

My first step, though, needs to be to buy the bike. Right now, the only recommendation I have is a Janus Explorer 2.0. What do you folks say - is it good for my goals (a short commute; safety, stability, and control top priority)?

Other than that, I figure to get: a helmet, maybe a vest or a flag, a mirror (mirrycle sounds good), a water bottle holder, maybe a saddle bag. I'll need a headlight in front, but I hear they are expensive, and a blinker in back (any recommendations)?

But - first things first - what bike should I get?

The Explorer is solid and will take a beating. The components are a little low-end, but at that price range, that's going to be pretty typical.

Depending on where you'll be living, just about any light setup can work. If you'll be in the city, I would get the cheapest LED setup you can. A basic blinky on the back and something like a Cateye 3 LED light up front will do you just fine to be seen by. If you actually want it to illuminate the road, you'll need a more expensive headlight.

I personally don't think a vest or mirror is necessary, but do what you feel is appropriate. Neither is a particularly expensive piece of equipment.

Another option altogether, is to look at Craig's List if it exists for your area. You can find great deals on used bikes there, though you may not find a hybrid necessarily. I wouldn't worry about that. Even an older road bike can be fitted out with some wider tires and with the stem raised up will ride very nicely.

$300 is a tad low if that's your budget for everything. If you're just looking at $300 for a bike, that's probably fine, especially if you go used.

More important than any gear you select, I would strongly suggest that you read John Allen's "Bicycling Street Smarts" and learn how to properly ride in traffic. A proper education, good attitude, and a little common sense can make a whole lot gear unnecessary. http://www.bikexprt.com/streetsmarts/usa/

Three miles is a very short commute, you'll be fine. You will be anxious on the roads at first, but your anxiety will quickly subside and be replaced by confidence.

Personally, I'd suggest buying a used bike. You will get so much more for your money. If you tell us where you live and what size you need I bet some people would even scout out rides on ebay and Craig's List in your area and suggest some good used bikes for sale--I've seen it done before, we like to get people on bikes.

If you want to buy new, $300 wil get you an entry-level bike. Nothing wrong with that, it will work fine and the shop you buy it at may include some tune-ups with the purchase of the bike. Many shops in my area include lifetime tune-ups.

For a commuter bike I would make sure that you can attach a rear rack as well as fenders. Anything that you can pedal that meets the above two criteria will work. You're only going three miles! If you're in good shape it will soon (if not immediately) feel like it is just around the corner.

I noticed you said you valued a "stable" bike, don't think that a tire with skinnier tires is inherently less stable that one with fat tires. Some novices are convinced of this error--not saying you are, just that many are. The fact is that if you are riding on pavement, a good commuting tire size could be as skinny as 28mm, or as "fat" as 37mm. Anything less is for racing, anything more is for off-road. I would add that control and stability are primarily to be found in the rider, not the bike. You will obtain both by riding, no bike can give them to you.

Any hybrid will do, though I wouldn't shy away from a higher quality used road, hybrid, or touring bike.
The above-mentioned Trek 7200 would do. I would prefer the 7200 FX. Watch out for the big, cushy seats on hybrids! They feel comfortable in the store, they feel comfortable when you press your finger into them. They are a sham! Cushy means more of you sinks into the seat, which means more of you touches the saddle, which means there is more friction created on your delicate body parts touching the saddle, you see where this is going and it isn't good. Just get a normal bicycle seat, not a barstool.

I'm not going to suggest more bikes, picking out a bike for yourself is part of the fun. If you find something you like, post them in this thread and I'm sure people will tell you what they think of them as potential commuters.

Thanks for the tips.

My first step, though, needs to be to buy the bike. Right now, the only recommendation I have is a Janus Explorer 2.0. What do you folks say - is it good for my goals (a short commute; safety, stability, and control top priority)?

But - first things first - what bike should I get?

For a 3 mile commute just about any bike would do. Ok - the hill at the end would seem to rule out a 35 lb. single gear beach cruiser unless you really want to develop strong legs :D .

For your price range (entry) there are going to be many, many suitable bikes. A suggestion to make the selection easier is to first select the bike shop! Then we can focus on the brands of bikes they carry. Why not post what city you're moving to and solict recommendations for bike shops?

If you are going to be a regular commuter it helps to have an established relationship with a good bike shop and nothing sets you on your way better than buying a bike from them.

Wow!, thanks for all the great responses.

I checked out the Street Smarts guide - very well done. I'm going to go over it carefully.

Right now, I'm in the Rockland County (NY) area, and I'll be moving to Ocean County, NJ. Any suggestions as to used bikes appreciated, but, being that I am a novice, I want to avoid lemons (I remember a bike bought as a kid, whose brake pads fell off on the first day! bought it new at a "bike shop").

The local bike shop carries Jamis, and recommened an Explorer 2.0 for $300. Unfortunately, I couldn't get any more advice or information (the conversation was basically "$300? Hills? Explorer 2.0. See you later.") I'm not sure if it can take racks and fenders.

BTW, when I go to buy a bike, anything to look out for?

Thanks for all the help. I'm going through Street Smarts - anything else I should know or see?

PS $300 is for the bike alone, I have some left over for gear

PS $300 is for the bike alone, I have some left over for gear
I just want to emphasize as well that you should expect to spend an additional $80-200 to outfit your bike for commuting, depending on how much or little your bike comes with stock and your specific needs. Essential items such as helmet, fenders, rack, lights, lock, bike tools, pump, cycling togs, etc. can add up really quickly. Check out the sticky thread at the top of this forum "Advice for new commuters" for some really good suggestions on what extras you'll need for commuting. I too just started commuting by bike and I found that thread immensely helpful.

Okay, here's the best I can do so far:

Bike - Jamis Explorer 2.0, $300 (unless someone recommends a good used bike local)

Gear:
Helmet - Will take whatever bike man recommends, main thing is that it fits well
Mirror: Mirrcycle Mountain
Waterbottle & holder: Is this standard? Can I just take whatever he has?
Lock: I'll take what he has, unless someone recommends inexpensive mail order lock
Pannier: None for now
Weather gear (fenders, rain gear, etc.): none for now

Night time gear:
Low end headlight
Back blinker
Maybe a Nathan Tri-Color vest, and/or a Flash Flag (BTW, is the flash flag good in the day time, to keep cars off, due to the extra width?)

How is this? Again, my goal is safety, stability, and control - the ride itself is short and regardless I ain't no speed demon (just afraid of all that steel out there...)

Yes, the Flash Flag is excellent! I've never been buzzed and I believe it's because of that flag. It is easy to spot hundreds of yards away.

Is there some reason you are not interested in checking out the Trek hybrids? Just curious, not offended. :)

Is there some reason you are not interested in checking out the Trek hybrids? Just curious, not offended.

No, other than you said it was at $400, and the Jamis was quoted at $300. What does it have over the Jamis? Or, better I should ask: what does the Jamis lack (for me) that I will get with the extra dough?

Longhorn - do you think the flag helped you in the daytime as well?

I'm afraid I don't know anything about the Jamis. My Trek was almost $400 but there are others in the same line that are closer to $300. You might check out the Trek site (http://www2.trekbikes.com/en/) and then search some of the hybrid models here for comments, if you're interested. But the Jamis may very well be an excellent choice! Here's the site for my bike, if you'd like to compare: http://www.trekbikes.com/bikes/2004/citybike/7200.jsp#

The latest I've ridden is about 9:15 p.m., just past dusk, so most of my riding has been in the daytime and I have felt the flag was very effective. I attached mine to the back of my rack but since you're not getting a rack at first, you may need to attach it to your seat. I also carry my bike on a car rack and the flag has weathered 65 MPH trips on the back of my car just fine. I think it even helps as a safety feature back there! ;)

That setup sounds fine.

As far as rain gear and fenders go, you'll figure that out yourself. If you find that you miss your ride on wet days, you'll know it's time to get a little bit of gear. Or maybe you'll find that you don't mind getting a bit wet. Or maybe you don't want to ride in the rain at all. The important thing is to know what your choices are.

Likewise with the rack and pans. I don't have them and don't miss them. But at least I know of them and knowing is half the battle.

Several people have responded and I will just add my two cents. Consider taking a biking course if you have any doubts about your skills (and maybe consider it if you have no doubts as well!

Scout out routes that might keep you on residential streets, and run the course a couple of times before the big day.

Use panniers rather than a backpack to avoid sweating since your fairly short commute means you probably won't need to shower if you keep your speed modest.

Ride in straight lines and don't worry too much about being hit from behind on the straightaways....instead worry about cars turning across your path at intersections, and learn the proper procedures for dealing with cars using a right turn lane where you want to go straight. If you have to make left turns at traffic lights, consider using the long route where you stay in the curb lane and go straight through the intersection to the far corner, then stop and rotate your bike 90 degrees and wait for the light to change.

Don't worry about what co-workers or customers might think of you riding. Many will compliment you, most will be impressed, and even the ones who think they're smugly scoffing at you won't realize that their disdain is a way of denying their own envy or guilt.

Enjoy.
Robert
14th season of 120-140 days per year bike commuting (I don't ride on ice!).

Why not consider picking up a used bike (maybe an older MTB) that you can experiment with and get comfortable on for 50$ (plus a little more for tires and a tune) rather than going full bore for something you may find doesn't suit you?
As another alternative: I recently picked up a like-new Trek 820 on craigslist for 150 (alomost half sticker price)....
Getting something new is exciting- but maybe a cheaper usie will get you where you want to be w/out the "buyers remorse" later on...
Good luck!

I would recommmend a Volvo.

In new jersey, it used to be said that snow plow drivers would drive to work in their volvo's, then go plow the roads...

Anyway, that being said, it really depends on where your commute is. Do you want a straight commuter bike, or do you plan on doing anything with it on the weekends. Do you plan to park it indoors or outside? Fair weather or rain too?

I find that the faster I am, the less time I spend out there on the road, the less time I'm exposed to cars. And in the city, if I'm fast enough to keep up with traffic, I don't have to ride on the side of the road and have cars brushing by me, I can actually take the lane. Visibility is always important, best to have a blinker mounted high in the city to attract attention. Out there in the suburbs, have it on solid so drivers can get a fix of where you are. Don't forget to get a basic repair and flat kit, in case you get a flat tire.

Explore alternate routes to the route you take to drive in your car. Such routes are typically safer and more interesting. A little longer won't hurt, either, since it'll just mean some more time cycling. Congratulations on your decison to commute by bike.

I don't have a specific bike recommendation, but from what you said I would definately say hybrid or hardtail with slick tires. In traffic I just feel a little more relaxed with the more upright position and the flat-bars that a hybrid will afford you. Plus, fat tires won't flat as easily as skinny tires. Otherwise, definatly look used. $300 won't get you a new bike that will last for many years. I'm not saying they are bad bikes, but you could get $600-$800 worth of bike for $300 if you go used. For example: Trek 7500 (http://cgi.ebay.com/TREK-7500-HYBRID-23-FRAME_W0QQitemZ7173398996QQcategoryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) or giant cypress (http://cgi.ebay.com/Giant-Cypress-SX-Flat-Bar-Road-Bike-Like-New_W0QQitemZ7173166751QQcategoryZ98084QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) (not my auctions). There are lots of other options: Specialized crossroads line, trek 7x00 line, giant cypress, etc. I think you will be much happier long term by going used and getting a bit better bike now. Don't rush to buy the Jamis until you check out your other options. If you then decide to get the Jamis, buy it, love it, ride it.

Here was my intial setup (about 3 months ago now):

$370 - New Trek Navigator 200
$123 - Arkel bug pannier
$45 - Tom Bihn Bag (for laptop, goes inside Bug)
$113 - Workout clothes for 5 days (bike shorts, wicking shirts)
$30 - Helmet
$25 - Rack
$25 - Water bottle, cage, chain cleaner and lube

The bike's a hybrid and one step up from the cheapest adult bike I could find at my local shop. (The cheapest bike, another Trek hybird, had a weird feeling to the steering. The salesperson said something about an "angled fork", to which I sagely nodded and asked for a different bike to try. I have no idea what it actually meant, but the Navigator 200 didn't steer oddly, so I was happy.) I really like it as a new cyclist who only cares about commuting. I think the tires are semi-slicks that came on it. It works, it was relatively inexpensive, it's comfortable.

I didn't buy fenders because I haven't had any rain yet, and figure I'll wait and see how much I need them. I initially used gas stations for air and my car tire gauge, but later borrowed a floor pump from a friend who is no longer cycling. As for lights, I have a light that was lent to me by the same friend I borrowed the floor pump from, but I haven't had to use it yet, with it being summer and all.

Some money can be saved on a cheaper pannier setup; I went for expensive because I wanted to feel comfortable carrying my laptop to and from work, and because I knew having a good way to carry things would affect how willing I was to commute. Also, I splurged some on nicer workout gear; many people just use what they have.

It's easy to read all the advice on this forum and get overwhelmed. I found that it worked for me to go to the local bike shop, explain my price range and what I was doing with the bike and then buy the bare minimum to get started.

Cheers,
Jonobie

[QUOTE=DogBoy]$300 won't get you a new bike that will last for many years. I'm not saying they are bad bikes, but you could get $600-$800 worth of bike for $300 if you go used. QUOTE]

I disagree with DogBoy regarding the longevity of what $300 will buy you. But I wholeheartedly agree with his comment that buying used will get you a LOT more bike. More money usually just means more efficiency, in my experience. I never buy a new bike. But there are some very real benefits to buying new if you are a completely inexperieced rider. Most of those benefits come from creating a relationship with the bike store for maintenance and advice. Remember, you need them to respect you and take the time to answer questions, no matter how many times they have answered them before. If you are halfway intelligent and want to learn, you need them to explain their recommendations instead of expecting you to blindly follow their lead and moving on to the next customer. If you feel like they pretty much just blew you off after telling you to buy the Jamis, perhaps that store does not really offer the type of service you need as a complete beginner. You are not buying a bike to park in the garage like most of their customers; you will be using and relying on this thing so what you buy matters. There are lots and lots of bike shops out there so take your time and find a good one or learn to do the maintenance and education yourself.

The problem with novices buying used is that we don't know what we're buying.
Speaking for myself, I'm scared of used because I don't want to get screwed.
My only friends that bike are road bikers as hobbyists. They aren't really 'into' bikes.
so I have no one to talk to about specific bikes I find.

This dude is probably in the same boat.

The problem with novices buying used is that we don't know what we're buying.

Yup, I avoided buying used for the same reason. I can't tell the difference between a bike that's only a tuneup away from being a great bike, and one that would require rebuilding everything. And I didn't have the faintest idea how to size a bike for myself.

Honestly, I was initially overwhelmed by how important everyone seemed to think it was to get the "right" bike to commute on. One inexpensive bike later, it seems to me that overly worrying about the type of bike matters only if you've been commuting for a long while and have distinct preferences on what you get to work on, if you're someone who commutes a long way to work (where speed might really be an issue), or if you're someone who is into mechanics and bicycles and enjoys the hunt for a perfect bicycle. For a novice going ~7-10 miles and just wants a servicable vehicle, I'd bet pretty much any new bike from a good bike shop (i.e., one that will talk to you) serves fine as a starter.

Cheers,
JOnobie

I bought a Trek 4300 for $309 and it works fine...BUT...after I bought it I discovered that there are no attachment points near the hub for front fenders. They must figure that real mountain bikers would not want fenders. If you commute, you will (in my opinion) want fenders, so make sure your bike can take them. (And, I hate to say it, look for yourself because I asked the bike shop guy and he said it could be done but was eating his words when I went back to pick up the bike.)

I would recommmend a Volvo.
Hey, be nice! :)
BTW, I had a '90 Volvo and an '80s bike. Still have the latter.
Robert

If the volvo broke down you must have gotten a model made after the ford buyout.

It doesnt matter what brand of bike you get, as all will have similar features.
It is most improtant to find the right bike shop that has good mechanics and are helpful in finding the right sort of bike to meet your needs and give maximum enjoyment. I suggest a bike with straight handlebars, tires about 32 mm wide and no suspension as the reduced weight will make it easier to get up hills. Ask the shop you find the most helpful, if they have any used bikes that will meet your needs.

Picking out THE bike is the most fun. Remember bike commuting is different than auto commuting. You'll tend to spend a lot on stuff you need to make the commute safe/fun that is just included with a car.

In picking out the bike remember:
1. some dealers will offer 0% or low financing so you can get a better bike than you thought
2. ideally you'ld want to pick out a dealer chain, so you can get the bike now and get service at your new location.
3. You want your rear cassette to have X..27|32|34 teeth so you can climb the hill.


Safety in traffic, begins with the rider. Memorize the safety tips on this site:
http://www.bicyclesafe.com/

Basis safety points:
1. it's cheaper to avoid an accident by spending a few bucks than to go to the hospital
2. active lighting is much better than passive lighting. You're starting in Sept, darkness is present in pm commute
3. everything that keeps you riding in a straight line, i.e. predictable, is a safety expense


What's not needed yet:
1. mirror
2. water bottle, heck it's only 3 miles and you're young
3. tricolor vest
4. horizontal flag

What is needed at start:

1. helmet.

2. BRIGHT rear safety light
Best buy is: TL-LD1000 $30 http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=19999&subcategory_ID=4322
2.1.1 one row steady and one row side to side
2.1.2 AA batteries for longer life and cheaper cost
2.1.3 better side visibility
Next best buy is :TL-LD600 $20 http://www.rei.com/product/11068458.htm?
2.2.1 one row of bright lights
2.2.2 AAA batteries

3. Good head light. Part of the fun here is picking out your model. Look for:
3.1 15+ watts
3.2 some side visibility
3.3 easy to replace batteries
3.4 good history of dependability. Look at mtbreview.com for details on available lights

4. Front AMBER safety light
This goes high on the front forks so cars don't turn into you and see you before the crunch event.
$12 each.
http://www.coolflashlights.com/biking-flashlights.html

5. biking gloves. Here you need to find some that fit you.

6. portable tire pump
7. tire pressure guage
8. spare tube
9. tire levers


What you will need/want by end of Jan
1. fenders. Check out nashbar. You won't want to swerve to miss a pothole and catch a bumper
2. warm gloves
3. waterproof and breathable jacket. Check out the illuminite for one that combines safety with practicality
4. better tires, so you don't get a flat. Get either a Schwalbe Marathon or Armidillo
5. fleece
6. ski mask, bacaclava in bike jargon
7. rear rack
8. rack bag
9. floor tire pump

Items you'll probably also want are
1. longjohns or tights
2. blinkie for helmet/rack bag
3. mirror
4. glove liner

Come April, add a new bike ;-))

Hope this helps. If you watch the weather, you should be able to commute some even during the winter months. Save snow commuting for 2nd commute year.

The problem with a used bike is that if you don't do your own fix-ups, it runs into money taking it to a shop. Plus, used bikes, in theory, could have more go wrong because of, well, previous use. So if you can find a shop that has a good maintainence agreement for new bikes, you'll probably break even. Of course that assumes you stick your bike riding over a couple of years.

Good luck, and welcome to the independence of pedaling yourself to work!

Maybe I missed something in someone's post, but I didn't see anyone ask about how the bike will be stored at work. If you can store it inside, near you, during the day, a new bike would be fine. However, if you have to lock it up outside, you may want to look for something used.

If you are not comfortable with going out and buying a used bike on your own, there are bike shops that sell used bikes along with their new ones.

I'm sorry that I can't offer any advice on what type of bike to get (I just got a 20 year old touring bike and it looks like you want something that has you in a more upright position).

I agree with what many people have said here.....the route you choose is a key component of safety. A few months ago I changed my route from a 2+ mile ride on sidewalks next to a busy road, to a 3 mile route on roads that had few, if any, cars. I didn't lose any time (I eliminated 3 out of 4 traffic lights) and I had a nicer ride.

Safety in traffic, begins with the rider. Memorize the safety tips on this site:
http://www.bicyclesafe.com/

That's a great webpage. I've long though that a better way to teach safety is to show the circumstances one is trying to avoid, which is the tactic that page uses.

The only thing I'd add to that page is the fact that (going by John Forrester's book), in the majority of car/ bicycle accidents, the fault is the cyclist's -- doing things that are either illegal or very stupid. "Good" cyclists, (by his definition club cyclists), get into far, far fewer accidents, (less than 1% of cycle accidents involve good, legal, experienced cyclists, if I remember correctly), than cyclists who don't follow the law or aren't as vigilant about safe riding.

So, while it's not always the cyclist's fault, if you just follow the law and common sense, the odds are incredibly better.

Joe

I really have a different approach than most who posted here. It is based on my own experience a few years ago, so I have to believe it makes sense.

I think that if you are just starting, you shouldn't worry about the bike, you should worry about the cyclist. You should do some reading on safety, as others have suggested, and you should also start reading this forum for many good suggestions. But mainly, you should just get out and ride. Ride all over the new city you are moving to--a bicycle is great for exploring. At the same time, you will be getting in great shape, gaining experience, gaining confidence in traffic conditions and learning about bicycles in general.

Don't worry about what bike you buy. For now buy the cheapest bike you can find--$20 to $30. Why? Four reasons.

1. A three mile commute is so short you can ride it on any bike, as long as the wheels are nearly round. A billion Chinese commute on really crappy bikes!

2. You don't yet know enough about cycling to know the difference between a good bike and a bad bike. You are just barely starting to learn. In a couple months you will know 100 times more about bikes and your own cycling style and needs.

3. Riding a cheapass beater for a couple months will give you time to save more money for a new bike. You really should spend a bit more than $300 to get a nice brand-new bike. And you don't yet know enough to buy a nice used bike.

4. Most people who start bike commuting don't keep it up. That's why there are so many $1500 bikes collecting dust in garages. Why waste the money if you're not really sure?

That's a great webpage. I've long though that a better way to teach safety is to show the circumstances one is trying to avoid, which is the tactic that page uses.Joe

I too am new to cycling, and am very concerned about safety. I've only had my bike 2 weeks, and have the headlight and taillight flashers and helmet, and am about to add a reflective vest to my gear. (I have reflective tape on my helmet)

Already I had an incident where an SUV came right up next to me and made a right into a driveway cutting me off. (Without using a blinker) Absolutely amazing..... Just like the web page says, he thought he was faster than me, just because I was on a bike. I thought I was relatively safe considering this is just down the street from my development, in a 25 MPH zone... wrong I was. Luckily no impact, but I did get to experience the full stopping power of my new bike.

The web page you listed had some great info. This thread talked about flags... I'm not familiar with them. Could someone post a link to some types and tell what they are used for? Thanks!!!

Oh - I forgot to ask my other question - What about the yellow light in the front that was also mentioned? I haven't heard of that before. Is that common ? What other light options should I consider?

Note: I plan on riding for exercise and for fun, which once winter gets closer will definately be in the dark.
Thanks! :eek:

If the volvo broke down you must have gotten a model made after the ford buyout.
No it was a '90, I believe pre-Ford, but hey that's still 15 years. It's still on the road, somewhere, body holes and all. Bikes last longer than cars if looked after
RGC

This thread talked about flags... I'm not familiar with them. Could someone post a link to some types and tell what they are used for? Thanks!!!

I have one of these: http://www.flashback.ca/products/accessories.html

I really have a different approach than most who posted here. It is based on my own experience a few years ago, so I have to believe it makes sense. ...snip...


Roody, that was a great post.
Robert

I was picking up some supplies at my LBS last night and noticed a new Trek 7200 for $260. Not endorsing it, but pointing out that indeed there are other bikes than the Explorer 2 in the $300 price range.

I really agree with this advice. I got back into riding at the beginning of June and I'm still riding an old used bike. I've tried a lot of new ones out but my opinions of my long term needs are still changing based on the roads i'm riding on and the distances I'm going (longer distances each week).

Unless money is no object, I think you need some riding experience on the roads you will be travelling before you can choose what will fit most of your needs.


I really have a different approach than most who posted here. It is based on my own experience a few years ago, so I have to believe it makes sense.

I think that if you are just starting, you shouldn't worry about the bike, you should worry about the cyclist. You should do some reading on safety, as others have suggested, and you should also start reading this forum for many good suggestions. But mainly, you should just get out and ride. Ride all over the new city you are moving to--a bicycle is great for exploring. At the same time, you will be getting in great shape, gaining experience, gaining confidence in traffic conditions and learning about bicycles in general.

Don't worry about what bike you buy. For now buy the cheapest bike you can find--$20 to $30. Why? Four reasons.

1. A three mile commute is so short you can ride it on any bike, as long as the wheels are nearly round. A billion Chinese commute on really crappy bikes!

2. You don't yet know enough about cycling to know the difference between a good bike and a bad bike. You are just barely starting to learn. In a couple months you will know 100 times more about bikes and your own cycling style and needs.

3. Riding a cheapass beater for a couple months will give you time to save more money for a new bike. You really should spend a bit more than $300 to get a nice brand-new bike. And you don't yet know enough to buy a nice used bike.

4. Most people who start bike commuting don't keep it up. That's why there are so many $1500 bikes collecting dust in garages. Why waste the money if you're not really sure?

Oh - I forgot to ask my other question - What about the yellow light in the front that was also mentioned? I haven't heard of that before. Is that common ? What other light options should I consider?


My personal pet peeve. Look at the safety URL, where are the highest risks? People either not seeing the bike from the front or especially from the left/right side when they are turning into the bike. The yellow clearance lights are only $12, and when mounted at 45 degree angle to straight ahead. Down side risk is just $24. Upside gain, is missed accident.

Normal bike as viewed by drivers:
View Front-- one light spot, hopefully bright.
View when 1/2 thru turn in front of bike: maybe a weak side light from the headlight, if so equipped. Most only have the wheel reflectors from side. Passive, only work if lights of vehicle turning into bike are aligned right with bikes wheels.

Bike with safety clearance lights as viewed by drivers:
View Front -- 3 light spots. One high at hand bars, and 2 yellow on the forks. Matches drivers expectations for vehicles: headlight, and clearance lights. Makes it easy for drivers to judge speed and size of object and distance. If yellow lights are not set to steady, but side-to-side, drivers pause to reexamine this vehicle. Exactly behavior desired.

View when 1/2 thru turn: 1 light face on, and 1 weak white light. Headlight may be visible. The yellow safety light is pointed directly at driver and there are 5 LED's moving helping driver see moving vehicle.


I also like, but not as strongly, if you have road bike bars, add flash back lights in the bar ends. Reason is the same, to make it easier for drivers from the back to guage width of vehicle. Instead of just taillight, you have 3 spots: taillight and left blinker and right blinker. Some add a helmet blinker, but I think that is overkill. I want to be seen well but not to annoy drivers.

Lots of great suggestions here, my two cents:

helmet and sunglasses (with interchangable clear lenses for night) a must,

cell phone

reflective tape is cheap added visibility

find a knowledgable bike buddy and take them along to buy a used mountain bike (Craig's list, not ebay) with wide tires. Smooth and wide is better but knobbies are fine if you are nervous. Make sure the brakes are working reliably.

As you get more confident you will want a better faster bike, but if you shop wisely you can do it for $300.
good luck!!

Thanks HiYoSilver, That really helps. I'll take a look at those side lights. Mount them on the front forks... Sounds like a plan. Thanks!

Wow, I really need to say thank you to everyone for all the great advice, tips, and constructive criticism. Please, keep it coming!

One thing I would recommend is learning how to do your own maintainence, esp. basic things like cable adjustment and chain cleaning. Buy one of the Greg Zinn books for some good basic advice. You should learn to do basic roadside fixes, at least. It can also help with learning to guage the qualities of used rides; and even if you buy a new bike, you'll probably eventually want a second bike as a back up... most of us have one or more extras. That's a good time to go used. The main problem with buying used w/o being familiar with bikes is fit; once you've riden you'll have a better idea as to fit. If you have friends who ride or have bikes, ask to borrow their bikes and see what is comfortable. Talk to some shops.

I like older bikes, and today commuted on around 50$ worth of bike stuff (Bridgestone RB2 and some equipment from a thrift store) plus a 100$ helmet (I like my head). In general, I prefer friction to index (click) shifting; less to go wrong. Simpler is better.

Thanks HiYoSilver, That really helps. I'll take a look at those side lights. Mount them on the front forks... Sounds like a plan. Thanks!

You're welcome. I would still like to find a better source. I had to mount one upside down to get the right configuration. They are very effective at stop signs. 9 times out of 10 drivers will pause and let you go so they can see those strange lights on the front. I turn them on once it gets near dusk to dark. The optional mount I use to mount on the front forks was probably meant to mount around a round bar, like a seat post, but hey they work. If one of the LED's is weak in the first week, return for another one. It'll fail. I have a short commute and have yet to go thru one set of batteries as I always run them from side to side instead of flashing so it's easier for drivers to judge distance.

I'm sure some folks will talk smack about me for this, but if your city allows it ride on the sidewalk. I live in Lancaster, PA and the roads are pretty skinny here...to avoid accidents the local government started allowing folks to ride on the sidewalk for a mere $1 registration fee incase you strike a pedestrian. I got it just incase I felt like riding on the sidewalk, I can usually keep up with traffic (unless it's uphill) so I ride on the street when it isn't too congested.

The only downfall is that I can only ride my mountain bike on the sidewalk here...the sidewalk is da^% near worse than an offroad course at times.

That's really terrible advice and should not be followed. If you think riding on a sidewalk is a good idea, you owe it to yourself to lookup the well-documented crash statistics.

The lowest studies have shown is a 160% increase in crash rates and they go up from there. One study has documented a 2380% increase. That's right, the sidewalk was found to be 24.8 times more dangerous than a typical road. No studies have found sidewalk cycling accident rates that even approach the safety of riding in the street.

These are, of course, statistics and don't speak to the specifics of the sidewalks you ride on in Lancaster, but you might be wise to read up on the cause of sidewalk cycling accidents to understand how they apply to those that you ride on and what to be aware of if you choose to continue.

You certainly shouldn't be passing along that advice to others without carefully couching it in disclaimers and explanation.

Ok, you want statistics, here they are:

Bicycle accidents involving Automobiles

'00 - 302
'01 - 216 (the year they allowed cycling on the sidewalks)
'02 - 186
'03 - 181 (more "Share the Road" signs were erected)
'04 - 198

Bicycle accidents involving Pedestrians

'00 - 45
'01 - 80 (the year they allowed cycling on the sidewalks)
'02 - 94
'03 - 75
'04 - 104

Now the thing is that there may be a greater increase in bike accidents while riding on the sidewalk but they also tend to be less serious. A pedestrian strikes you and all that happens is you fall...yeah you could break a bone but it "usually" isn't life threatening. Get hit by an auto and you risk death. I'm a bicycle cop and a cyclist. I appreciate this new law, there have been considerably fewer "serious accidents" since it was introduced. I notice the trends that a lot of poster's follow in regards to safety on this site...they see statistics and trust them...well statistics are flawed by the information gathering method, many times it's subjective.

And do you know how the cycling population has grown or diminished in this same time? If Lancaster is like many other places, cycling populations continue to decline. Without controlling for population size or demographics, those numbers are meaningless. Were there other elements to your bicycle campaign such as promoting general awareness of cycling, cyclist safety, and cyclist rights? Somehow people became aware the new bikes-on-sidewalks law, I would assume that it was part of a general public awareness campaign.

Do you know why 2004 saw a 10% increase in accidents with motor vehicles and a 39% increase in pedestrian accidents? Presumably someone stole the share the road signs.

You're very quick to attribute declines in accident rates to the new sidewalk cycling law while ignoring a substantial increase. A 2.7% year-on-year decrease is credited to new signage but a 10% increase is completely ignored. That's convenient. Do you have previous years' data? It's hard to derive a trend from a single data point, 2000. Safety campaigns are often reactive, following on the heels of a particularly bad year or particularly bad incident. In a phenomenon known as "regression to the mean", rates will often return to more nominal values in subsequent years. Those numbers are then cited as proof of efficacy of the campaign. Let's see the stats from '97 - '99 while we're at it.

Do you have any explanation for the statistics that show substantial risk increases in general from motor vehicles? Do you know why AASHTO now, without reservation, recommends against building sidepaths?

Allow me to cite a considerably more robust and well-documented body of evidence that says the opposite is true, sidewalk cycling is more dangerous. http://www.bikexprt.com/bikepol/facil/sidepath/sidecrash.htm

Maybe you're lucky and it works for you in Lancaster, though the numbers you present aren't complete enough to be able to draw such conclusions, but that doesn't seem to be most places' experience.