Bicycle Mechanics - top tube routing for bar end shifters

I am considering converting my Trek 930 for touring. Both derailleur cable are routed on top of the top tube. Can I switch from straight bars to drops with bar end shifters and use the top tube routing. Or will I have to route the cables along the down tube? All the articles I have read only mention down tube routing.

I am considering converting my Trek 930 for touring. Both derailleur cable are routed on top of the top tube. Can I switch from straight bars to drops with bar end shifters and use the top tube routing. Or will I have to route the cables along the down tube? All the articles I have read only mention down tube routing.They will go along the toptube just dandy.

Yes. And if you want a nicer look, you could even conceal the derailleur cables all the way under your bar tape, just like the brake cables. If you do that, however, you'll need a 3-m-long tandem-length cable for the rear shifter.

Cables seen here (http://mgagnon.net/velo/potence-double.en.shtml) (towards the end).

It's no big deal but you won't have the luxury of having barrel adjusters for your derailleur cables on a mtb frame when converting to bar end shifters regardless of cable routing. You can install in-line adjusters if you feel you must have them.

It's no big deal but you won't have the luxury of having barrel adjusters for your derailleur cables on a mtb frame when converting to bar end shifters regardless of cable routing. You can install in-line adjusters if you feel you must have them.

Another option is to go with one of these barrel adjusters that slide into a cable stop on the frame:


http://store.airbomb.com/mmAIRBOMB/Images/small/q/BR4043.jpg

Thanks all for your help. juicemouse - what is the source for the barrel adjuster you have pictured?

Thanks all for your help. juicemouse - what is the source for the barrel adjuster you have pictured?

I got one at my LBS, and I'll bet you can too. :)

Another option is to go with one of these barrel adjusters that slide into a cable stop on the frame:If I remember correctly, those adjusters did not slip into the frame cable stops as the stops were flushly mounted on the frame. I tried them. Those adjusters are primarily designed for use with canti brake cable hangers. Who knows, go to your LBS and pick one up and see if they fit. They usually have them laying around in their parts bin.

If I remember correctly, those adjusters did not slip into the frame cable stops as the stops were flushly mounted on the frame. I tried them. Those adjusters are primarily designed for canti brake cable hangers. Who knows, go to your LBS and pick one up and see if they fit. They usually have them laying around in their parts bin.

Nah, these are specifically designed for it. They're the right diameter to fit (very) snugly into the cable guide. It's a little hard to see it in that picture, but there are two little bumps on the outside that rest against the frame tube and prevent it from turning as you adjust it. Just what the doctor ordered.

Nah, these are specifically designed for it. They're the right diameter to fit (very) snugly into the cable guide. It's a little hard to see it in that picture, but there are two little bumps on the outside that rest against the frame tube and prevent it from turning as you adjust it. Just what the doctor ordered.Even if the do work with his frame,they are a waste of time. A friction front doesn't need one,and the few times my RD had needed a 1/4 turn to fine tune shifting,it's been no big deal to dismount and do it.If one is a pro racing for a living,then they aren't too likely to be using bar end shifters anyway.

Even if the do work with his frame,they are a waste of time. A friction front doesn't need one,and the few times my RD had needed a 1/4 turn to fine tune shifting,it's been no big deal to dismount and do it.If one is a pro racing for a living,then they aren't too likely to be using bar end shifters anyway.

Yeah, I agree. Got a little sidetracked there. The only reason I got one is for my Sram RD, which doesn't have a built-in adjuster.

Nah, these are specifically designed for it. They're the right diameter to fit (very) snugly into the cable guide. It's a little hard to see it in that picture, but there are two little bumps on the outside that rest against the frame tube and prevent it from turning as you adjust it. Just what the doctor ordered.Ahh....good to know, for future reference. Thanks.

I am planning on using Rivendell shifters which are friction only. So I guess the barrel adjusters not really needed.