Recumbent - Weignt concerns (the bike not mine...lol)

OK,

I am getting there! Having the opportunity to try out a few more bikes has helped me out a bit. I have discovered that:

I like the CLWB the best.
The SWB bikes are a bit more of a challenge at slow speed (although I only tried one (Sun Spedster)
The LWB bikes are w a y to long to use around town.

Looks like the bikes with an overall length of around 72" and wheelbases in the 50-60" range provide stable cruising but are still somewhat maneuverable at low speed and around tighter urban areas.

BUT. How concerned should I be about the weight of the bike??? I have not been on any rides long enough to know the difference, but some (like the Sun Speedster at 41 pounds and EZ Rider at 45 + pounds) seem way heavier than others.

Example: The EZ-Rider, which I have tested and really liked, is a lead brick when compared to something like, say the Maxarya (which I wish I could test) Ray-1X at 34 pounds fully loaded with every option you can get and it has a full suspension. Is this weight difference a big deal in the long run or is it less noticeable (othe than when loading and unloading from a rack) than I am making it out to be in my head?

Now you're running into the unfortunate marketing fact, that CLWBs are typically the low-end models. By and large, that means heavy frames and cheaper components than the sporty models in the other categories. Unless you ride on totally flat streets, you'll feel the differnce in weight. Don't believe it when someone tries to tell you that if you lose ten pounds it'll work out the same. It won't. Mid-30s would be livable, but anything over 40 pounds is going to feel like riding a brick if you're doing more than a few easy miles on a flat trail.

One CLWB that is lighter than the ones you've listed is the RANS Tailwind. Technically it's almost a LWB, but the overall configuration is more like a compact, and it's much lighter than a Sun or even a more-expensive Cannondale. Suns are inexpensive, but sometimes I think they are made out of depleted uranium!

Make sure you ride them all TWICE!!! Preferably with rides separated by a week or more, to give your brain time to process the experiences. Take notes, you'll probably find that your impressions are at least a little bit different the second time around.

BlazingPedals,

Cool. That helps a lot.Luckily I am going on vacation soon to Colorado and will be able to visit a few shops there to try some more bikes and hopefully the ones i have already tried - and it will have been a week since.

I think I have gotten obver my "hangup" of originally ruling out certain bikes based on the fact that is is a few hundred dollars over my "set allowance" that I put down at $1000.

Mostly this was due to reading the specs a bit more (realizing I still need to test ride, ideally)

But a 45 + pound EZ Rider at close to $1000 compared to a $1200 base model Maxarya Ray-1 at 29 pounds makes me think that a bit of extra money should be allowed here if the difference in riding experience would be substantial.

On another note - anyone know where you can get and or test Maxarya bikes?? I could not find anyplace in the Puget Sound and some of the dealers on their own website don't list the Maxarya as a bike they carry. (And none are close to me anyway)

Of the ones I would like to test, that make is nowhere to be found - I think I will be OK with getting to test the others between several shops I will be visiting (Sun, RANS, EZ, Burley, and a few others)

It helps to know what the 'more expensive' bikes feel like, even if you don't plan on buying one. After all, it might just validate your choice if there is $500 difference in price but you can't tell the difference! OTOH, you might discover that saving a little more now will stave off the NEXT bent purchase by getting you into the one you'll like for longer.

Not that it'll matter much. If you don't need another one within a year and a half, you're the model of self restraint! :)

Sorry, I can't offer any specific advice on the Maxarya. I've never seen one 'in the flesh.' Contacting the mfg might at least get you a name of someone close by who owns one.

I believe you are right about "Don't believe it when someone tries to tell you that if you lose ten pounds it'll work out the same. It won't. " but I don't know why?

I believe you are right about "Don't believe it when someone tries to tell you that if you lose ten pounds it'll work out the same. It won't. " but I don't know why?

I wonder about this too. From a purely physics point of view it must work, the total mass is less by ten pounds. From a fitness point of view, I would think your body would work better and be more efficient if you lose ten pounds of fat.

So why is it? Anybody know?

I believe you are right about "Don't believe it when someone tries to tell you that if you lose ten pounds it'll work out the same. It won't. " but I don't know why?

Because there's more to a bike that weighs 10 pounds more than another, than just the weight. IE. Cheaper components, less thought-out design.

I believe you are right about "Don't believe it when someone tries to tell you that if you lose ten pounds it'll work out the same. It won't. " but I don't know why?

First off, a heavy bike will always handle like a heavy bike. If you lose weight, any bike becomes a more significant % of the total package; but this trait is accentuated in a heavier bike vs a lighter one. Secondly, the lighter bike will give 'instant gratification.' That is, you will instantly be ten (or whatever) pounds ahead. If you lose the weight later, you'll have the weight loss on top of the lighter bike, which is even better.

Good thought about the componentry, jeff-o. Probably mostly in heavier wheelsets and bottom brackets, both using cheaper bearings. Convoluted chainlines can make a difference, too (as per your design reason.)