Road Cycling - taking the road bike plunge

Well, I've started looking at them anyway. Friday evening, my BF and I stopped by one of the local bike shops and I test rode my first road bike. It was an entry level Trek (size 50cm) -- sorry, I don't remember what model, but it was priced at $600.

It felt great -- of course, I'm riding a MTB with semi-slicks currently. The only complaint I have is that the shifting was the Shimano Sora setup. I had major problems reaching the thumb levers from the drops -- impossible! Whatever bike I decide to buy... I'll have the shifting upgraded to Campy. (I briefly tried a Cannondale's setup and it was much more comfortable.)

I know that these questions come up from time to time here, but how does Trek's line of road bikes compare to others? I don't want to spend huge $$$, though I would like a decent bike that fits. Under $1,000 would be my budget, methinks. I need something with a smaller frame... say 49-50cm since I'm 5'5".

Tonight, we're hitting another bike shop to check their selection. I'll test ride one or two more, depending on how much time we have. What should I look for?

I just recently bought a Trek X01 which is a cyclocross bike. If you can find one to test ride, do it. I found the ride less jaring than a standard road bike. I had some trouble reaching the shifters and brakes also, I went to a shorter stem, and now it feels great. Now when I ride my hybred bike, I feel like I'm in slow motion.

Can't wait to get home from work so I can go for a ride!! Good luck on your hunt for a new bike.

It felt great -- of course, I'm riding a MTB with semi-slicks currently. The only complaint I have is that the shifting was the Shimano Sora setup. I had major problems reaching the thumb levers from the drops -- impossible! Whatever bike I decide to buy... I'll have the shifting upgraded to Campy. (I briefly tried a Cannondale's setup and it was much more comfortable.)

Justbe aware that you don't have to get Campy to be able to shift from the drops. Shimano also has similar shifters (STI) to Campy - their 105, ultegra, dura ace and I believe the Tiagra would be similar to Campy.

I know your dilemma. I bought my road bike 3 weeks ago today...an anniversary of sorts. I had my eyes set on a Trek 1000, but by the time I went to buy one the 2002's were gone and the 2003 didn't seem to fit as well, plus the shifter issue. I then tried the Specialized Allez A1 and Allez A1 Sport. The Sport was stickered at $999.99, but it had (has) an aluminium frame, carbon fork and Tiagra components (all shifting with the brake handles, no thumb shifter). I was able to get a good deal since it was a 2002 at about $800. Might be worth a look at your budget...

Bottom line is fit is key, so if the thumb shifter ain't working don't spend the dough, save or spend a little more... :beer:

Both Campy Ergo and most Shimano are designed for "normal" ie guy hands. The low-end Tiagra levers dont have the quality of 105, but do work better for small mitts.

The truth is that almost all bikes by reputable big manufacturers [Trek, Specialized, Giant, Cannondale, etc.] at the same price point will be of similar quality and component spec. In fact, most of the frames are made my the same handful of frame builders in Asia [there are exceptions] of the same materials [mostly aluminum] and are specced with the same components [Shimano]. I think the sweet spot is the $900-$1200 price range, where you'll find nicely made bikes with Shimano 105 [sometimes Campagnolo Veloce] components. If you're budget is $600, I would suggest kicking that up a bit to get into tjat price range; at this time of year, you can get some good prices on 2002 models.

Since the quality and spec of the major brands is pretty comparable, your choice should be based on which geometry feels most comfortable, which bike shop gives you the best service and colour. Buy the bike that sings to you. Buy the bike that you want to ride. If you like the Cannondale better than the Trek because there are so damned many Treks out there, and you find them equally comfortable, go with the 'dale. If all else are equal and you really like the feel and Italian mystique of a bike kited with Campy, then go with that. But make absolutely sure that you buy a bike that feels right in terms of fit and vibe.

As for shifting... Sora thumbshifters are not designed to be shifter from the drops, Campagnolo's are. I prefer Campagnolo components, but you on;y get Camp shifters when the rest of the components are Campy. Shimano's shifters above Sora [Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace in that order from low to high] shift with a push-push, pushing the fin behind the brake lever moves the chain into a smaller cog or chainring, pushing the brake lever moves the chain onto a a larger cog or chainring.

Lower end groups--both Shimano and Campy--tend to have a longer reach to the shifters and a more difficult action. Upgrading to a higher end group is a good idea for someone with small hands. I think that Campy's reach, in general, tends to be a little shorter than Shimano's.

Something to look into: Terry Precision Bicycles makes a handlebar called the "T-Bar." It has a little dent in the hooks that puts your hand a little closer to the levers. The bar costs $40. Ask your LBS if they can swap it out for the original handlebar your bike comes with.

I had a notion that after a year on a Giant Sedona DX, which I love to ride, I might be in the market for a road bike. My wife wants to know what I want for my birthday:) Thus I have tested a couple road bikes.

The Giant OCR1 has great appeal to me and the LBS has a few comparable bikes as well as several well above the OCR in price.

The LBS owner stressed to me that I would get the same results from the road bike as I do from the Sedona with about 30% less effort. He made the speed advatages clear as well.

After spending a couple hours test riding I reached the conclusion that perhaps I didn't really need a road bike after all. I started cycling about a year ago as a way to get aerobic excercise and lose weight. It seems to me that using "less effort" might not be what I really need.

The LBS owner actually fitted me to the bikes prior to the test and I was outfitted in my normal cycling gear. I found the bikes to be comfortable and responsive and indeed fast. I did note the differences such as carbon vs. aluminum forks, paired spoke wheels and Shimano 105 vs Ultegra as I tried the various models.

I suppose now I need encouragement one way or the other as to whether to make the investment in a road bike. Should I stick with my "comfort hybrid" and plug away with the extra effort? I no longer use it on trails, sticking mainly to streets and highways. I suppose I'd keep it for those occasions when a friend wants to go on trails.

I'm surprised at my ambivalence. I really thought I wanted a road bike.

Carl

I'm a long way from being an expert. But I'd say there's obviously no reason you can't expend the same amount of effort on the road bike - you'll just be going faster. If you like the road bike get it.

Ever want to drive an imported (or domestic, I guess) sports car with quick handling, excellent acceleration, fast turns, etc.? If so, you need a road bike. In regards to how much energy is expended, if that is your criteria, I have a nice stationary bike in the basement I will sell (give) you. It requires a lot of energy. Of course, it is boring as he**!!

And, you can go faster and have more fun on the roadie.

The "need for speed" is not to race with, but to be able to go further when you ride, to be able to take your time enjoying the good places and whiz past the boring or smelly ones.

With a hybrid or any heavy bike you are limited in the distance you can travel and the things and places you see and go to.

On Saturday, on the heavy bike you can leave your house and go anywhere you want to within a 10 mile radius. With the road bike you have a 30+ mile radius for the same effort.

Just to confuse the issue a little bit more, you can take that "comfort hybrid" and make it at least a little better performing by changing out the tires to some narrow slicks. It does make a difference. You can also swap out the saddle for something that absorbs less of the energy of the road and there are even aero bars for comfort bars to give you the option of becoming aerodynamic. You can go clipless or city clipped in the pedal department. All these investments still won't give you quite the ease of a light road bike but it's a fair shot close.

OctoberBlue, if you buy a new bike and convert the shifting to Campy, you might be opening a huge can of worms. It could end up costing more than you expect.

If you prefer Campy I believe it would be wise to look at Campy equiped bikes and save yourself the hassle.

Or, as suggested above, go with the higher end Shimano.

Whatever you do, your decision to move up to a road bike is sound. You won't regret it.

I would like to add my .02
By going to a Local Bike shop you are doing it right.
I would like to say that you should look and test ride a high end bike, just so you can get a feel of whats really out there.
Some of the post memtion speed. That is only part. dont forget feel and responds.
A hybrid is like a jack of all trades.. good at everything but not the best. (IMHO) a road bike will make you work harder and use less engry (SP) its make for the road, it will make you want to ride more, and that will help in getting into the shape you want.
I must say the you should spend a little money on the the fit
and feel. that should be the most important.
good luck, hope to see you out there..
have fun,

Octoberblue,
I have very small hands and find Campy hoods a lot more comfortable than Shimano. My Cannondale came equipped with Shimano 105. I changed the shifters to Campy. To do this I also had to get a Campy derailleur.

Also, if you get your tt length right but still have some problems with the reach of the brakes you can get short reach handlebars.
I had the Terry handlebars but switched them for the short reach which is about 1" shorter from the bend to the hoods. Now I can brake easily from the drops. Even with the Terry handlebars I couldn't do that. Deda and Salsa are 2 companies that make them.

Try out some steel frames. I'm a lightweight and found that aluminum gives a very stiff ride which means that every bump on the road was asorbed by my body. I ride carbon fiber now and I can't believe how relaxed I feel after a ride. When your body is taking most of the road shock it also wears you out faster. You may not notice the stiffness in the parking lot but on a 50 mile ride you'll feel it.

Good luck

Thanks to all you guys & gals. You really gave me some good stuff to think about and ask about at the bike shop. I'm feeling smarter already. :) Keep the suggestions/thoughts coming. I'm in no rush... just want to find the Perfect Bike. :D

Hmmm... tonight I test rode two bikes -- the only ones that the LBS had in my size:

Giant OCR2 in a size 'small'. I was waaay too stretched out on the thing. It had Shimano Tiagra components which were ok, but the Campy is still more comfortable. The LBS guy recommended going with AT LEAST the Shimano 105 on whatever bike I get. I'd have to try that out first. I'm open to it... if it feels right.

Univega Volare in a size 47cm. The frame fit fine, but the bike had some compromises that I was not willing to make. It only had a double chainring and I would rather have a triple. The Campy shifters, etc felt very nice. I was somewhat tempted though, cuz it was priced at $1150 and the LBS guy was willing to knock off $100 since it was a 2001. I've decided to keep checking around though, because changing the gearing would negate the discounted price -- Louis, you were right. I'd like to just find a bike that I'll love, with minimal modifications (saddle, handlebars, possibly cranks).

Both of these bikes were aluminum frame w/ carbon fork. I haven't tried any steel frame bikes yet.

I could have tried out a Lightspeed (though at $2100, it's about $1000 over my budget), but it was already past closing time and they would have had to locate & install pedals on the thing. Another time.

Sometime this week, I'll head to one of their other locations and ride a couple different ones.

Oh -- LBS guy also recommended going with a threadless stem. Why are these better?

Actually, the Univega Modo Volare has a Columbus steel frame. Nice bike, really.

If you really like the Univega, but feel that the gearing is too high, you could always swap out the stock rear cassette for one with a 28 or 29 tooth big cog. That woulkd give you almost the exact same low gear that you'd get on a stock triple, but without the triple chainring.

Originally posted by velocipedio
Actually, the Univega Modo Volare has a Columbus steel frame. Nice bike, really.

If you really like the Univega, but feel that the gearing is too high, you could always swap out the stock rear cassette for one with a 28 or 29 tooth big cog. That woulkd give you almost the exact same low gear that you'd get on a stock triple, but without the triple chainring.

Last night, I test rode a Bianchi Brava. It was alright, but didn't feel as good as the Univega. The steering felt a bit squirrely on the Brava and the Shimano Sora shifters drove me nuts. I keep thinking about the Volare, especially since you mentioned swapping out the rear cassette.

I just want to be able to get up hills without absolutely killing myself. Of course, a road bike is less weight to haul uphill than my MTB, so maybe I'd be ok with the double chainring after all, instead of a triple. If I really wanted to, I could always upgrade to a triple (and its other required components) later when I have the $$.

Which does everyone ride on their road bikes? Double or triple? By choice or by chance?

I ride a double, with an 11-23 cassette, which is a flatlander's block. Still, I do ride hills -- I really enjoy riding hills. I prefer double to triple for a number of reasons, but the main one is that I can't really see the need for a triple [these are my legs, YMMV]. With that in mind, I think a triple would add a level of unnecessary complexity to an elegant mechanism. If I found myself in the Alps, I'd slap on a 13-26 or 13-28 cassette.

Doubles tend to give crisper shifting than triples and, to be honest, the lowest granny gear that you can get on a triple is usually much lower than you'd ever go, and the granny gear on most triples is only 30 teeth, compared to the 39-tooth small chainring of a double. You can make up most of those ratios with a lower-geared cassette. Campy's Veloce group has a 13-28 cassette. You'll end up sacrificing some top-end, but I don't think you'll be sprinting much at 60 km/h, so you don't need the 11-tooth cog.

If you really like the 'vega, all the shop has to do is swap out the cassette. You can also haggle for a better price because, as nice as the bike is -- and it is a very nice bike IMO -- it is a 2001 model of a now-discontinued line. [Don't worry, the warranty is being honoured by Raleigh, Univerga's erstwhile parent company].

and, to be honest, the lowest granny gear that you can get on a triple is usually much lower than you'd ever go, and the granny gear on most triples is only 30 teeth, compared to the 39-tooth small chainring of a double.

I've got to disagree completely with you, V.

I think sometimes very fit riders forget how we older, or overweight, or not as fit riders are.

I NEED that granny - in fact I had a even smaller chain ring (I believe 28 tooth in place of the 30, or a 30 in place of the 32, but I get very mixed up about this stuff) installed so that I would have an even lower gear for a granny.

Admittedly, we have some pretty good hills around here. There is no way I could negotiate my way around without that granny.

I would strongly recommend the triple. Mine (105) shifts easily and crisply, and I have 6,000 miles on it so far with no problems.

The hills around here are very steep, so I need my triple.
Im currently swapping my road triple for an MTB triple on my touring bike to get even lower gears, but that is for hauling luggage along trails.
For unladen road bikes, a 30t can be useful on steep climbs.
An alternative, which I have used, is a low ratio double (like on a classic cyclo cross bike). A 36/48 is rare to find on any road bike, but for non-athletes can be very useful.

Specialities TA have just release a very nice (but $$$y) double chainset with a Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) of 110mm, so it can take smaller rings. Bigger BCDs limit the lowest ring you can fit.

It's a question of math...

Most triples, out of the box, give you a lowest gearing of 30/25. That's a gain ratio of 2.4 or 31.5 gear inches. A double with a lowest gear of 39/28 gives you a gain ratio of 2.7 or 36.6 gear inches [BTW, the higest gear on a typical road bike is 53/25 -- a gain ratio of 8.7 or 116.1 gear inches]. That means that a double with a 28t rear cog actually gives you almost the exact same low gear as a standard triple.

Admittedly, you can go lower, with a 28t chainring and even a MTB cassette with a 32t big cog -- 28/32 gives you a gain ratio of 1.7 or 23 gear inches -- but you'd have to be spinning at more than 80 rpms just to stay upright.

I don't mean any disrespect, but I thing it's possible to get WAY undergeared. A 28/32 would be too much for loaded touring with a full BOB trailer on the Matterhorn. Sure, you can down-gear pretty far -- though I think a 26/36 would be the lowest technically feasible gear -- but it gets to a point where there are some serious diminishing returns.

If I though OctoberBlue was as fit as me [I'm assuming that, since she's just starting, she isn't yet] I would recommend a double with an 11-23 cassette. As it is, I've found that 12-25 is perfectly adequate for most reasonably healthy novices in reasonably rolling terrain. If the terrain is quite hilly, or even mountainous [Colorado mountainous, not Ohio mountainous], I think a 13-26 or 13-28 would be adequate for most people without compromising shifting performance and simplicity.

Yes, a 39/28 will make you work more in the hills than a 30/28, but if your goal is to get exercise, that's a good thing, and I don't think it would be too much, by a long shot, for a reasonably healthy 33-year-old woman in Ohio. If she was a relatively un-fit, 55-year-old woman, or a fit 65-year-old man in Colorado, I would agree that a triple with a wide spread cassette might be a good idea.

Personally, I would never go that low, I think a 25t would suit me fine in even the hilliest situations. I do have a 13-26 on my cyclocross bike -- a bike I ride in the mud, off-road on knobby tires with the pressure down to 45 psi -- and I sometimes find the 26t excessive.

^Both are valid arguments. Being Mature and large I need every bit of gear that I can get. I realize that there is a point of diminishing return, but diminished or not its better to ride up the hill reeeeeal slow than walk.

If you buy a triple now it cost very little extra. If its an upgrade later it is very expensive. All the new Shimano STI shifters are triple so it will have the same shift as a double on the top two.

BUT as you will notice around here this is a heated subject and every one has the right to be wrong:rolleyes:

I just noticed that the Univega Modo Volare [black and red frame] is the model that comes/came with the 10-speed Daytona group. This bike is an amazing value! Daytona is equal in quality to Shimano Ultegra, and ten-speed shifting is excellent. What's more, you can get a 13-29 rear cassette. That means you could get a lower gear on the double than you could on a standard triple! And it comes with a very nice carbon fiber fork.

Honestly, if you like this bike -- if it is the one that sings to you -- go for it. It listed at @ $1200 in 2001. See if the shop will sell it for $900. If you're worried about hills, get the 13-29. If you find that you're under-geared, you can always have a 11-23 cassette installed, which would be a lot simpler than removing a triple crank and installing a double. [Cassette removal and installation is the kind of thing you can do yourself.]

I actually test-rode this bike last year and was very, very impressed. This is a very nice bike.

There are some reviews here, at Roadbikereview.com. (http://www.roadbikereview.com/Road,Bike/Univega,2000,Modo,Volare/PRD_22994_1610crx.aspx)

Ohoh, The V has left LaLa Land. His last message is 100%right :eek:

The bike has great gears, a fine price and if it talks to you give it a good home.

Another thing that I was thinking about...

The Modo Volare is/was made in Asia... of Italian steel tubing, with Italian componentry. It is, to all intents, an Italian steel bike. It may not be a Pinarello, exactly, but it's the Pinarello's first cousin.

I don't know about anyone else, but when it comes to bikes, I'm a sucker for Italian mystique. It can't be quantified, and it has nothing to do with ride quality or performance...

But when all else is equal, I find that Italian sings to me more than Japanese.

Velocipedio, you are most helpful! Thanks for all of your comments and input.

The more bikes that I test ride, the more I keep thinking about the Univega. This weekend, I'll be hitting one more store where I'll be able to ride a Raleigh R600. I don't want to leave any stone unturned, so to speak. If the Raleigh doesn't come out ahead, then I'll return to the shop that had the Volare.

Two friends of mine agree with you that I probably wouldn't 'need' the triple.

Re: the Univega... it is 'sticker priced' at $1,150 and the guy said he'd go down to $1,050 on it. So, would my next approach be: "Well, let's swap the cassette for a 13-29 and will you sell it to me for $900?" If they won't budge on the $1,050 w/ a different cassette, is it still a hot deal?

To be honest, I thought it was a good deal at $1200 US [$1850 Canadian]. I would settle for $1000 US with the new cassette and all the fitting stuff [stem, handlebar, etc. as needed]. You have to keep in mind that the 2003 bikes are hitting stores now, so this is a two-year-old model from a brand that doesn't exist anymore. The dealer should be particularly motivated to sell it. Tell him that you've seen the Modo Volare frame and fork [no components or wheels] on sale on the Internet for $250.

Having said all that, I think this is a great bike -- if it fits and it sings to you.

Originally posted by velocipedio
if it fits and it sings to you.
I think that this statement really sums up how a bike
feels when the fit and everything else is right.
yeah, my bike sings to me. . .

Go for the Univega, and tell the shop
that on e-bay an east coast shop is dumping
new in box modo volare 47cm for opening bid
$750 (and there are NO bids on it). that should
soften him up a bit.
OBTW really nice bike.

Marty
And he has 2 of them listed.

Well you folks have done it!

I have decided to look a little beyond the Giant OCR1 and test ride a 2003 Specialized Comp. it may be Christmas rather than my birthday since it is $1699 rather than the $999 I was looking at for the OCR1, but I agree with my LBS owner's comments regarding components (Ultegra throughout), smooth welds and paired spoke wheels, etc. It's a dream which I shall have until Christmas I think.

What do you think of the prices my LBS is listing? If they are OK, I can avoid spending a day going to Phoenix to shop.

Carl

well lets see,
Centaur (new name for Daytona) gruppo is
$550 (give or take a few bucks) from the online
retailers. Cheapest I saw them for on e-bay was
$400.
So figure now you're paying $500 for frame,
wheels, stem, bars, seatpost, saddle etc.
Sounds like a bargain to me.
I'd say this was a late 2001 model based on
when campy changed Daytona to 10 speed from
9 speed.
At $1050 to me its a good deal, and the cassette
change will get you up the hills.
slightly off topic, I really don't like the name
Centaur, I much prefered Daytona.

Marty

For what it's worth, Branford bike has Centaur 10sp for $659.88. Add $75 for rims, $25 for wheelbuilding, $250 for the finishing kit, and you're pretty damned close to $1050 without the frame and fork.

Something to think about.