Fifty Plus (50+) - News: Good and Bad

First of all, let me explain that recent aptitude tests place me roughly equivalent to the banana slug, in terms of mechanical ability. Not because of a lack of desire; far from it. Let's just say that the last time I attempted to repair something in the kitchen sink, the plumber who eventually arrived let it be known that I had doubled the cost of repair with my meager attempts.

And, there was that time that I bought a radial arm saw, and tried to feed a board into it the wrong way, only to have the CAST IRON guard snap in two, with one piece whizzing past my head and missing me by perhaps an inch.

So, you can understand when I returned to biking I had a natural trepidation of things going wrong, and me being stranded 15 miles from civilization, with no clue how to fix it.

Today, I went to move my bike from it's informal post next to the front door to a more comfortable, traffic-pattern-wise, position in an adjacent room when I got the news.

First the bad news: My front tire, a fat, knobby, just under 400 miles-on-it tire, is flat. A cursory examination revealed a burr embedded between two knobs.

The good news: The tire went flat AT HOME! Woohoo! I can get that book from Barnes & Noble that SWEARS it makes bicycle repair easy, and take my time, and repair the flat. I had the foresight to purchase a spare tube, plus I have a patch kit, and there's plenty of iced tea in the fridge. My schedule won't permit me tackling this until Thursday, however.

Thursday afternoon, I'll probably be putting the bike on the rack and driving to my LBS, so they can repair the damage I do to the tire, trying to repair the damage the burr did in the first place.

It's nice to know one's schedule ahead of time. :rolleyes:

Given our similar mechanical aptitude, I'm thinking that genetically we must be related.

DG,
Sorry to hear of the tire. One of those things that happen!
Tires are not a big deal as long as you catch them early as you have.
If you can't repair it by all means take it to one who can.
I don't expect a wimp effort here. On Sept 3 I want to see you adding to the ride your age thread,
Best regards,
Dan

Digital Gee....you being the author of my favorite quote here (Cycling is 50% physical, 90% mental), I know you'll overcome this--or just ride around on the rims. Of my many tire misadventures, I recall changing a tube (in my garage) but not checking to see if it was seated. As I pumped merrily and breathlessly away, a large hernia like balloon began to secretlysquirt out between tire and rim. I looked down and saw it just as it exploded loudly, my young son began to cry, and the wife came running out fearing the worst.

D.G.....take it to the shop!

Glad to see there are others out there with my level of mechanical ability - which is basically below zero. Even if I did try to fix my bike, I have no confidence I did it correctly. So, why waste my time -- it goes back to the LBS for repairs.

Not only can't I do much mechanical work, I hate doing whatever I do. :mad: Yes, I can change a tire and replace a tube in an emergency. But I hate it.

There are always those who write in forums that if you only had $3,000 worth of Park Tools, and took this course and that and read this book and that, you could learn.

To me, that is like telling me if I read books and practised and got the right shoes I could run a 4 minute mile. Just isn't going to happen.

That is why God made LBS's - who do have $3,000 worth of Park Tools!

I'm with you DG. But, be sure to find the cause of that leak and remove it, or you will get to change that tube again. Been there, did that!

(PS, Hey, I did manage to assemble a bicycle out of a box correctly :D :D )

Oh, I think it's what you wish out of the experience. For me, working on my motorcycles and (now) bicycles is part of the entire experience. I'd not enjoy the riding if not for the fixing, tuning, etc.

If you had that ethic, then fixing would be pleasurable and you'd be good at it. OTOH, I HATE HATE HATE working on my house. Not so oddly enough, I"m no good at it. The mechanical aptitude is the same, but the desire is different.

Oh, I think it's what you wish out of the experience. For me, working on my motorcycles and (now) bicycles is part of the entire experience. I'd not enjoy the riding if not for the fixing, tuning, etc.

If you had that ethic, then fixing would be pleasurable and you'd be good at it. OTOH, I HATE HATE HATE working on my house. Not so oddly enough, I"m no good at it. The mechanical aptitude is the same, but the desire is different.

I also hate working on my house, and am also no good at it! :D

There is such a thing as mechanical aptitude, and you can even have valid tests for it.

Those folks with good mechanical aptitude are the ones who enjoy doing mechanical things. Makes sense to me!

Agree with Dfox, some people have a knack for mechanics and do it well.

Digital Dee, don't forget to pick up some tire levers, plastic spoonish things to get the tire off. Take your time. I hated the first time I had to change a tire. Second wasn't so bad. Still don't like it, but now can do it. Can you say Mike's Lemonade?

LOL, well I learned the hard way, when I first got my bicycle, I had a flat everyday for 4 days in a row!! After changing out the tube, then patching the tube, I went down and bought a product called "SLIME"! I've got close to 700 miles on the bicycle and had "no flats"!! I don't care if it add's weight, as long as I don't have to 'repair on the roadside", it's worth the little bit of slime that sometime spits out, when I air up the tires! ;) I'm with most in this group, I'd rather "Ride than Wrench" anyday but I am working on adding to my meger bicycle tool collection, at least if I mess up, I can proudly say I messed it up with the "right tool", LOL! :D

Agree with Dfox, some people have a knack for mechanics and do it well.

Digital Dee, don't forget to pick up some tire levers, plastic spoonish things to get the tire off. Take your time. I hated the first time I had to change a tire. Second wasn't so bad. Still don't like it, but now can do it. Can you say Mike's Lemonade?

Well, now I can replace tires (even 700's x 25) WITHOUT tire levers, using my hands and a bit of finesse. Maybe there IS hope!



I went down and bought a product called "SLIME"! I've got close to 700 miles on the bicycle and had "no flats"!!
Slime will work with a low pressure 26" tire, but don't expect it to work well on a 120 psi tire. It also REALLY screws up Presta valves.

The Fox states: "Slime will work with a low pressure 26" tire, but don't expect it to work well on a 120 psi tire. It also REALLY screws up Presta valves".

BJ says: Your right, even low pressure tires with "presta valves" can get stuck closed when using "Slime"!! LOL, I doubt I'll ever be able to afford a bicycle with presta valves so I should be safe! ;) My snake belly treaded OEM tires have a max. of 65psi. been looking at having a differnt set of wheels built up to handle the 90-100 psi. 26x1.5 almost slick tires, strictly for "road rides". Hope they don't have presta valves or I'll have to figure a "Plan B"! :O

DnvrFox,

Have any hints on how to get the tire back on without levers? I hear there are some techniques that help or is it pretty much all muscle power?

LOL, I doubt I'll ever be able to afford a bicycle with presta valves so I should be safe!

You will live to rue those words!

Watch on this forum the inexorable progression:

1. Old bike

2. Hybrid/comfort

then:
3. Road bike (presta tires)

You can't stop it, man! It is nature's law.

You will live to rue those words!

Watch on this forum the inexorable progression:

1. Old bike

2. Hybrid/comfort

then:
3. Road bike (presta tires)

You can't stop it, man! It is nature's law.

You forgot to include step 4. - build your own buggy. Mine's coming along pretty nicely.

http://www.foodieforums.com/otherimages/ebay/raven.jpg

Many moons ago, I did my first long ride- The London to Brighton ride. I was in a group of 24 and we arranged a truck for the bikes and a coach for the riders. Got to London, unloaded the bikes and one had a flat tyre. No problem- the owner had several Spare tubes as one of his curses was punctures- he kept on getting them. Changed the tube, pumped it up, all Ok rode to the start and he had another puncture. Ok another tube, but this went down straight away. another tube and it was AT THIS POINT WE NOTICED HE HAD ABOUT 10 MORE TUBES IN HIS RUCKSACK. My mate puled out one of the tubes and put his finger through it "Where did you get these tubes from?" he was asked. Apparantly he went to a market and saw these tubes at a very cheap price, so he bought 50 of them. Every single one was already punctured, or rotten. Someone gave him a NEW tube out of his stock and we could finally start the ride.
Only one person failed on that ride, and that was the one with the rotten tubes. We had changed his rear tube, But he had 7 more punctures on his front wheel before he ran out of tubes (He had fitted one of the rotten tubes to the front aswell)

DnvrFox,

Have any hints on how to get the tire back on without levers? I hear there are some techniques that help or is it pretty much all muscle power?

No, not muscle power.

It primarily involves getting the edge of one side of the tire to be mounted down in the deeper space ain the middle of the wheel rim, allowing more "space" for the rest of the tire, and a technique of "rolling" the other side of the tire by either pushing with the heel of your palm, or pulling towards you while the wheel is facing away from you with you fingers, all the time being sure that the other side of the tire is away from the edge of the rim. Others have other techniques, I am sure.

I am proud I mounted my Specialized Armadillos (a very tough tire) without any levers a few weeks ago - the first time I have done so!

Thanks, I'm going to give it a go...hopefully not for a long time as the occasion would be a flat.

Slime will work with a low pressure 26" tire, but don't expect it to work well on a 120 psi tire. It also REALLY screws up Presta valves.

My LBS has Slime brand tubes which have pre-installed slime. That means you don't need to go past your presta on the way to the inside. Performance has these too. They exact a small penalty in mass, but not nearly as much as heavy tubes. My LBS sold me mine for $7.88 or less than Performance ,but I think that was a sale. So far no flats.

My LBS has Slime brand tubes which have pre-installed slime. That means you don't need to go past your presta on the way to the inside. Performance has these too. They exact a small penalty in mass, but not nearly as much as heavy tubes. My LBS sold me mine for $7.88 or less than Performance ,but I think that was a sale. So far no flats.

Yes, I tried these.

I found that if I ever forgot that slime was in the tube, and attempted inflation with the valve near the bottom of the wheel (near the ground), the slime would foul up the valve as you were filling it by running into the valve inside body.

If I always inflated with the valve near the top of the wheel, then things were ok as far as the valve.

I still doubt that slime could withstand the pressure for long of a tire filled to 120 psi, though.

I hope you have better luck than I did.

I think it a good idea that we have a forum here where we can report our experiences using certain equipment. For example, these tubes will either work or not in a high pressure 23 mm tire. At this point I don't know, but part of my success is coincident. I always inflate with the valve between 10 and 2 o'clock as habit.

I think it'd be useful if they do work, that I can post so others can then add that to their knowledgebase. Ditto if they fail. Is there an Equipment or Tried It forum? I didn't see a likely candidate.

I think it a good idea that we have a forum here where we can report our experiences using certain equipment. For example, these tubes will either work or not in a high pressure 23 mm tire. At this point I don't know, but part of my success is coincident. I always inflate with the valve between 10 and 2 o'clock as habit.

I think it'd be useful if they do work, that I can post so others can then add that to their knowledgebase. Ditto if they fail. Is there an Equipment or Tried It forum? I didn't see a likely candidate.

That's an excellent idea. I used to check out the mechanics forum but that talk was WAY over my head. I don't know -- maybe I've learned enough now that I could follow it. ;)

Digital Gee: Your admission to the lack of mechanical aptitude was actually inspiring! It got me to thinking about how I tend to assume I can't do simple things to my bike that only involve a screw driver or an allen wrench. So yesterday when I needed to change out my saddle, instead of waiting for my husband to come home and do it for me, I just marched out and did it! I rode it ten miles last night and it didn't fall off. :)

Well, last night I bought a book on bicycle maintenance with LOTS of pictures, came home, fired up a rerun of Law and Order, and set about to fix my flat.

It was easier to get the tire and tube off the bike than I had thought. It was pretty simple to find the leak in the tube (in the kitchen sink full of water). It wasn't hard to put a patch over the hole. It wasn't even that hard to remount the tube and tire, and inflate it with my floor pump.

It was, however, discouraging to glance at the bike twenty mintues later, and see that the tire is flat once again. By that point I was too irritated to repeat the process and see what happened. I'm going to do that this morning.

Perhaps the burr I thought had caused the flat (I found that immediately still sticking into the tire) wasn't completely removed. Perhaps i hadn't cleaned the inside of the tire enough. Whatever the reason, my feeling of accomplishment was short lived.

If I can't figure out what happened this morning, the bike will go to the LBS this afternoon.

Color my grumpy.

Okay, I took the tube off once again, and found it was still leaking from under the patch. If you're interested, I was using Wrench Force Fast Patch preglued inner tube patches. Anyway, I figured i could put another patch over the old one, overlapping it somewhat, to stop the leak.

Did that.

Still leaked.

Did it again (now three patches).

Still leaked.

Did it again and again and again (Now using all six patches in the kit, making a lovely floral pattern on the tube).

Still leaked.

Okay, change tactics (remember, I've got the mechanical aptitude of a banana slug). I'm very used to this kind of frustration -- it happens every time i try to fix something.

The LBS had furnished me with a free spare tube when i bought the bike, so i figured it was time to put that on and forget this patch business.

Inflated it slightly and began fitting it to the wheel. Didn't fit. Seemed too big. WTF???

Here's what I had on originally: 26x1.90/2.125. I look at the new tube: 26x1.75/2.35.

I'm not all sure what all those numbers mean, but I'm smart enough to know they don't match. Is this tube bigger? (Seems like 1.75 should be smaller than 1.90, but 2.35 is larger than 2.125.)

The whole mess goes to the LBS this afternoon. Geesh.

Any words of encouragement would be appreciated. Snickers and snorts you can keep to yourself! lol

Just look at how much practice you got! :)

From what I've learned here, those numbers are the range of widths that the tube will accommodate. If your tire width is somewhere between 1.90 and 2.125, then it should certainly be between 1.75 and 2.35! (I teach math; can't you tell? :D) So it would seem that the tube should fit.

I would have given up on the patch LONG before three patches! You're more patient than you think. :)

Okay, I took the tube off once again, and found it was still leaking from under the patch. If you're interested, I was using Wrench Force Fast Patch preglued inner tube patches. Anyway, I figured i could put another patch over the old one, overlapping it somewhat, to stop the leak.

Did that.

Still leaked.

Did it again (now three patches).

Still leaked.

Those peel-off patches (oops, almost typed "pee-off" patches) don't work so hot.

You can't put one patch over another.

You need a glue on patch, with the surface of the tire cleaned and dried and sandpapered.

But, hardly anyone uses patches, anyway, except in emergencies when you have used up your spare tube. The LBS will simply throw a tube in and will not patch it - too much chance the patch will leak and you will come back, and they will have to do it all over again. And too much time just patching.

That tube should work.

Inflate slightly, place inside of tire, not on rim, deflate, and go to it. Or, go see your LBS and ask if you can watch.

Have fun!

Just be glad you are not out in the boonies 25 miles without a cell phone!

Puncture repairs are an art. First of all find the thorn etc that caused the puncture and push it out from the inside of the tyre. Just pulling it out may leave a bit of the thorn still in the tyre, ready to cause another puncture. Use a piece of cloth and run it round the inside of the tyre just in case you have a second thorn etc. The cloth will stop your hand getting a puncture. On the tube, find the hole. Before making it wet or putting glue on it-- use sandpaper to abrade the tube. This is very important and is not always specified, but makes the patch stick better. Put the glue on the tube and let it go dry. Put some air in the tube to bring it to approximate size, And locate the hole, Then patch it.

Dead easy, so why is it that I always forget the cloth but do find the second thorn. I have a multitude of punctured tubes in the garage awaiting the necessary repairs, because I always fit a spare tube instead of repairing it out on the ride. And on top of that, I can't find the puncture repair outfit that I bought last week, and the one from last month, and the extra patches I bought years ago to be able to sort out my tubes.

Punctures are common off road, and I reckon to be back on the road within two minutes of the tyre going down- But this is a group effort by my riding partners, but The other point to remember is that the Pump must be good enough, be big enough to make it easy and must work when you want it to, instead of leaking air out of the seals-- which is all my friends pumps seem to do.

First of all, I'd like to thank everyone for your help and advice. I finally succeeded and didn't have to go to the LBS.

That said, I also re-confirmed my mechanical aptitude, although I now fear I've slipped BELOW the banana slug. To whit:

Taking Denver Fox's suggestions, I got the tube inside the tire, deflated it, and got everything mounted on the wheel. Ta da, right? Wrong. I suddenly noticed the black print on the black tire, telling me which direction the tread had to go. I had it backwards, of course (thanks, Murphy!).

So I removed the tire, deflated the tube, took everything off, put everything back on, remounted the wheel on the bike, and I was done, right? Nope, thanks again to Mr. Murphy, I had mounted the wheel backwards. I had the tire on in such a way that the computer wouldn't have worked and the quick release was on the wrong side. I'm not even sure I've explained it properly!

So, I switched all that around, and now I think (crossing my fingers) that all is finally well. I sincerely believe a banana slug would have done it better and faster! I also think this adventure belongs on the Humbling Thread now.

But the bottom line? The flat's fixed (i hope!) and I can get back on the road. Thanks everyone!

First of all, I'd like to thank everyone for your help and advice. I finally succeeded and didn't have to go to the LBS.

That said, I also re-confirmed my mechanical aptitude, although I now fear I've slipped BELOW the banana slug. To whit:

Taking Denver Fox's suggestions, I got the tube inside the tire, deflated it, and got everything mounted on the wheel. Ta da, right? Wrong. I suddenly noticed the black print on the black tire, telling me which direction the tread had to go. I had it backwards, of course (thanks, Murphy!).

So I removed the tire, deflated the tube, took everything off, put everything back on, remounted the wheel on the bike, and I was done, right? Nope, thanks again to Mr. Murphy, I had mounted the wheel backwards. I had the tire on in such a way that the computer wouldn't have worked and the quick release was on the wrong side. I'm not even sure I've explained it properly!

So, I switched all that around, and now I think (crossing my fingers) that all is finally well. I sincerely believe a banana slug would have done it better and faster! I also think this adventure belongs on the Humbling Thread now.

But the bottom line? The flat's fixed (i hope!) and I can get back on the road. Thanks everyone!

We have all done exactly the processes you mentioned - tire on rim backwards, wheel on bike backwards with the QR on the wrong side, etc., etc. Someday you will have the joy of getting a pinch flat or of having the rim tape go bad and the tube punctured by the back of the spoke.

Just today, I picked my bike up (had a spoke replaced after it breaking during a ride), put the bike in the van, and was driving down the street, when I heard that famous "Pisshh" sound from the back of the car.

Turned around, took the bike back in the shop. It looked like a spoke puncture, but the rim tape was in excellent condition??? Can't figure it out.

So, they replaced the tube gratis, filled it and I just finished s hort ride with my wife.

Incidentally, my LBS guy said that the newer 700 tubes with the modified slime do seem to hold the air at 120 psi when punctures by a thorn. Didn't know that. Learned something!

I have one more question: how much harder is it to work on the back tire than the front? I shudder to even consider that!

I have one more question: how much harder is it to work on the back tire than the front? I shudder to even consider that!

Once a month on Saturday morning, my LBS has a one hour class on fixing flats, checking brakes, removing wheels (including the back wheel), remounting that back wheel and other simple and basic repair and maintenance techniques. It is open to anyone.

Check around. This is not uncommon.

And, yes, you can easily (well, perhaps not so easily, but it can be done) remove the rear wheel and remount it.

I can even tell you how to get your chain back on - if it has fallen off the small chain ring into the frame - without even touching the chain. I see alot of folks with black greasy fingers attempting to do this manually. Nope, you don't even need to touch it!

Don't despair on the patches. I quit using patches as I've just not found them not to be that reliable-but I do take them on rides and only use when them if I run out of tubes. Basically I hope they can get me back to my car or to the house.

Anyone remember the patches we used on tubes as kids? Used rubber cement and those things worked!! That was pre-tire tools and a screwdriver would do....That also reminds me of service stations using a solvent/glue on tube repairs that they lit a match to. Always fascinated me as a kid.

Fortunately tires are a non-issue for me anymore. Now if I can just learn how to tune my derailluers....

I have one more question: how much harder is it to work on the back tire than the front? I shudder to even consider that!

They should be the same. What do you anticipate would be different in tires f / r?

They should be the same. What do you anticipate would be different in tires f / r?

I'm sure the tires are the same. It's getting them on and off the bike (the wheels, actually) that would appear to be different. In the front there's no chain to worry about. That's what I mean.

Congrats on completing your first tire repair lesson. It gets easier with time. The mistakes are part of the learning process, they make you remember not to do that next time.
Removing the rear wheel may look inticing, but it is still simple. The cassette needs to clear the chain on the way out. I tilt the wheel slightly when removing and installing. The wheel goes back in the same way it came out. Just make sure the chain is on the cassette and the axle is seated.

I'll add that you only need feel your way. Approach the removal with a cool mind. You'll find it easy.

What I suggest is that you do an R&R on the rear wheel now. That way when you need to on the road to fix a flat, you'll already know it's something you can do which will give you confidence that all will be ok. So do a practice run to gain the assurance you have the ability when you need it.

If I recall from the lesson on changing a tire that I got, be sure to change gears so that the chain is in the gear furthest from the wheel to give you more room. The only hard part for me was removing the brakes -- it was difficult due to the placement of the fenders. Unfortunately, I didn't get as much hands-on experience as I wanted because every time I had a question or the least bit difficulty, some guy in the class would take over. ;) If only I could count on them being there when I have a flat on the side of the road!

Can' t you release the brakes (spread the pads) so you can remove the wheel w/o removal of the entire brake mechanism? All the bikes I've seen have such releases.

It has a release but it was really tight and hard to get at because of the fenders.

Today I had Armadillos put on my electric bike. To change the rear tire, I'll have to remove the motor (three bolts) and the motor's chain, in addition to the regular bike stuff. Hope those tires live up to their flat-free reputation! ;)

Electric bike? You're swimming in waters strange to me. I think some guy I see regularly is on a bike with a small engine (moped?) but I've never seen an electric bike. I'd have guessed that the mass of the battery pack would make it hard to pedal uphill, etc. when you wanted to get off the motor.

It's heavy but has seven speeds so I can take many hills without the motor. The hills on which I use the motor are the same hills that pushed my heart rate too high in the lowest gear on my Trek (28-32!) I'm using it as a training machine -- rather than build up my strength and stamina in a spin class or on my elliptical, I train while I'm riding to and from work. Eventually, I hope to be able to commute on my Trek in a reasonable amount of time. :)

I can even tell you how to get your chain back on - if it has fallen off the small chain ring into the frame - without even touching the chain. I see alot of folks with black greasy fingers attempting to do this manually. Nope, you don't even need to touch it!

Enquiring minds want to know: How do you get the chain back on the ring without touching it?

I'll add that you only need feel your way. Approach the removal with a cool mind. You'll find it easy.

What I suggest is that you do an R&R on the rear wheel now. That way when you need to on the road to fix a flat, you'll already know it's something you can do which will give you confidence that all will be ok. So do a practice run to gain the assurance you have the ability when you need it.

I took this advice. I had to run (well, drive) to the LBS for some tubes (on sale, 3x$10), and had them show me how to take off the back tire. Came home, did it for practice. Surprisingly easy, once you know what you're doing. I now feel pretty confident about taking off tires and changing flats. Thanks again everyone!

Also, talked to the LBS about putting slicker tires on my 3900, and they said I could, but first try inflating to 65 or so and seeing how that feels. They think the stock tire on the 3900 is a fairly decent road tire as well (at that price point). They surprised me by NOT going for the easy sale. I like that.

Enquiring minds want to know: How do you get the chain back on the ring without touching it?

AH ha, someone finally asked - but I did get one PM asking. Here is what I told them:

Simple, assuming that the chain is not jammed tightly between the small chain ring and the frame - and it almost never is.

1. Move your front derailleur so that it would shift to the big chain ring - in other words, as far to the outside as possible.

2. With one hand, lift up the back of the bike.

3. With the other hand, turn the cranks in the normal going forward direction.

After a few turns, the small ring will "pick up" the chain, and it will eventually follow along to the big chain ring if you want, but you probably want to stop after it encircles the small chain ring.

Get on your bike, adjust the shifter for the front derailleur to the chain ring where the chain is, and pedal away.

I have used this technique on at least five different bikes several times and it has never failed.

(If the rear D is all the way to the wheel, it may make it easier if you move it to the outside, also - you may get a better angle)

I took this advice. I had to run (well, drive) to the LBS for some tubes (on sale, 3x$10), and had them show me how to take off the back tire. Came home, did it for practice. Surprisingly easy, once you know what you're doing. I now feel pretty confident about taking off tires and changing flats. Thanks again everyone!

Also, talked to the LBS about putting slicker tires on my 3900, and they said I could, but first try inflating to 65 or so and seeing how that feels. They think the stock tire on the 3900 is a fairly decent road tire as well (at that price point). They surprised me by NOT going for the easy sale. I like that.

I still suggest a run through on your own R&R'ing the tire -either front or rear. These guys who do it have it down and they likely used better 'spoons' than the rather dull plastic ones you probably have.

I've done as much research as I can (so far) on tire rolling resistance, wheel mass, etc. I believe that tread and press are the greatest determinants of resistance. For example, take identical tires of 20 and 28 mm at the same pressure, there will be little difference in rolling resistance. That's my take, but understand I'm a newbie who looks into things - I'm hardly an expert!

OTOH, are you in a race now? What is the downside if you do have more resistance to your ride? You'll only end up going slower for a particular effort which is bad in a century ride or a race, but for conditioning or fun? I think it's not much of a difference. That said, I run slick tires 20 front and 23 rear at high pressure. I preach, but don't practice :D

It's heavy but has seven speeds so I can take many hills without the motor. The hills on which I use the motor are the same hills that pushed my heart rate too high in the lowest gear on my Trek (28-32!) I'm using it as a training machine -- rather than build up my strength and stamina in a spin class or on my elliptical, I train while I'm riding to and from work. Eventually, I hope to be able to commute on my Trek in a reasonable amount of time. :)

Gee, I agree with your approach. I enjoy my riding outside, but can't much enjoy those static bikes at the gym. I sometimes take a spin class, but to me I'd so much rather be riding out there than being in a class cheek and jowl by other sweaty folks puffing away.

I didn't know you CAN push your heart rate too fast. I figured if it can get going that fast, it's ok for it to do so.

I still suggest a run through on your own R&R'ing the tire -either front or rear. These guys who do it have it down and they likely used better 'spoons' than the rather dull plastic ones you probably have.

I've done as much research as I can (so far) on tire rolling resistance, wheel mass, etc. I believe that tread and press are the greatest determinants of resistance. For example, take identical tires of 20 and 28 mm at the same pressure, there will be little difference in rolling resistance. That's my take, but understand I'm a newbie who looks into things - I'm hardly an expert!

OTOH, are you in a race now? What is the downside if you do have more resistance to your ride? You'll only end up going slower for a particular effort which is bad in a century ride or a race, but for conditioning or fun? I think it's not much of a difference. That said, I run slick tires 20 front and 23 rear at high pressure. I preach, but don't practice :D

No, I'm not in any race. I'm going to sign up for a half century in October as part of that "ride your age" challenge, and I thought perhaps slicks would give me a couple more miles per hour, thus reducing how long the ride was. However, I suppose that's not very much. I'm not a speed freak but it is fun to hit 20 MPH, but on this bike that's pretty unusual for me. 17 mph is becoming fairly standard fare.

And I do have fun! And I am getting conditioned!

Oh, based on my experience, I then suggest you do get those high pressure slicks for your age ride (we used to age run when I was marathoning). I believe that serious riders use one set of wheels/tires for practice (clunky stuff that endures) and another set for serious riding.

What kind of bike are you riding? -paul

I didn't know you CAN push your heart rate too fast. I figured if it can get going that fast, it's ok for it to do so.

I don't know that it's unhealthy but I do know that it felt like torture and there were times that I was afraid I was going to keel over. I could barely breathe, my face was beet red and I had to wait several minutes before I could drink water without choking since I was also gasping for breath. Knowing how bad it felt made me less and less enthusiastic to ride, especailly in this heat. I was beginning to make excuses not to ride and I was afraid the longer between rides, the sooner I'd drop it all together. Now when I think about going for a ride, I remind myself that if I get really tired or worn out, I can use the motor. Once I'm out there, I never use it nearly as much as I could -- it's a matter of pride ;) -- but at least it gets me out the door and just that little bit of "flattening" of the hills makes a big difference.

I have to laugh whenever anyone on these boards says, "Go find a hill and do intervals" or even funnier, "Find some flats and do interval training." I have hills everywhere I go -- not necessarily huge but numerous -- and I can't even think of a place near my house that would qualify as "flats." Before I got the electric bike, I felt like I was training to swim across the English Channel but the only place I could train was -- the English Channel! :D

They could have made you laugh even more by saying, "Go out and do fartlek" which seems to raise a few eyebrows at first blush.

I have no idea if what you describe is really a problem, but I sure can see it being unpleasent. Maybe it's a thing common to new folks coming in because a few times I have had unusually high heart rates (I thought) for the percieved effort. I figured for some reason my heart decided to go nuts and there was nothing I could do so I pedaled on. It subsided, but I never got to where I couldn't drink nor did I turn red.

Do you use a HR monitor? That seems to be standard equipment here for serious folks or those who like to take things a bit more formally. I don't have one. Instead, like running, I use percieved effort. I mean, what am I training for - to finish #301 instead of #304 in a field of 310? Why take myself seriously?