Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Ever stripped an IRO/Formula hub?

Just wondering whether anyone has stripped the cog or lockring threads on one of these hubs. I'm debating whether the extra $20-$30 I'd have to spend to get them logoless and fixed/fixed, rather than logoless and fixed/free, is worth it. I'd only run one cog on them in any case, but it's nice to know I can still use the other side in a fixed configuration if I screw up the first set of threads. But then, if nobody has problems with them stripping to begin with, that might not be necessary.

So, any horror stories?

Just wondering whether anyone has stripped the cog or lockring threads on one of these hubs. I'm debating whether the extra $20-$30 I'd have to spend to get them logoless and fixed/fixed, rather than logoless and fixed/free, is worth it. I'd only run one cog on them in any case, but it's nice to know I can still use the other side in a fixed configuration if I screw up the first set of threads. But then, if nobody has problems with them stripping to begin with, that might not be necessary.

So, any horror stories?

I can't talk about the Formula hubs because I don't have a lot of experience w/ them.

But in our experience, fixed/fixed is a perfectly good design.

After selling hundreds of fixed/fixed hubs, both 135s and 120s, this has been our experience:

- customers use them in all combinations of fixed and freewheel configurations

- using a freewheel on the fixed threads is no problem

- one hub's threads failed while being used w/ a VERY high quality freewheel
- this lead us to believe that its threads were somehow compromised in production

- no other threads have been broken while using freewheels

- a few threads have been broken when used with low quality track cogs and lockrings

- no threads have been broken when using Dura Ace or EAI cogs and lockrings

And let me summarize by saying that if you're building a rear wheel, it is wise to use a high quality hub in order to avoid the larger cost of rebuilding a wheel. And it is wise to use high quality cogs and lockrings in order to avoid ruining a hub and thus having to rebuild the wheel.

The place where quality counts the most (and where it make most sense to spend money to get that quality) is in the rear hub/cog/lockring.

Oh yeah, it's getting an EAI cog and DA lockring for sure. I'd just like to have that extra little bit of insurance that the wheel isn't toast if I manage to strip one side out, but then I also pay more in the first place for that peace of mind, etc etc. Doesn't seem like anyone is having any problems with it, but I think I'll spend the extra money on the fixed/fixed anyway.

Yes.

I did. but attribute it to insufficient tightening of the cog or lockring in the first place. it damaged the lockring threads on the hub. I got a new EAI cog and did it up using rotafix method w/oil on the cog threads and loctite on the locring threads and it held up fine for a month or so of everyday riding until that (27 x 1 1/4) wheelset was replaced.

when it happened I was using a soma cog and dura ace lockring. the lockring itself was not damaged nor were the cog or cog threads on the hub.

I've heard people say if you are realy worried about it then go dura ace phil or campy but I think the key is making sure everything is really super insanely tight.

[QUOTE=r0cket-]Just wondering whether anyone has stripped the cog or lockring threads on one of these hubs.

i've had iros on my bike for about a year now, no problems.

As mentioned, how you set it up in the beginning is the key. Do it wrong on a Dura Ace, Phil, or Campy, and the threads are just as likely to strip.

I've have a Velocity/IRO hubset that has seen almost a years riding and numerous cog changes. Threads are still like they were when new.

Stripped a blank fixed/free forumula. Soma cog. Possibly insufficiently tightened, possibly my tree-trunk he-man like legs. Probably the former.