[TimeZer0]

I've been starting to give some thought on which one of my bikes would be better suited for winter riding. This winter will be my first for commuting.

first option: Surly Karate Monkey, Single speed, 44-16 now and will probably gear down to 38-16 for winter conditions. 700/32c cyclocross tires that i'll swap out for the 700c nokian studded tires.
will add fenders. A little concerned about the parts getting jacked. Paul hubs and brakes, Race Face
headset (sealed). Dropped a bit of coin on this one, so I'm abit wary about putting it through a winter
but I know it will be a smoother ride than my other option.

second option: Specialized P.2, 8 speed but will convert to 32-16 single speed. cheap crappy stock suspension fork will be swapped for steel rigid fork. has big 26x2.4" knobbies that i'll swap for
26x2" studded tires, maybe just the front. Mechanical Disc brakes. Fenders/mudflap will be added.
Keep in mind this bike has the geometry for jumping, I got this bike out of ignorance a few years ago
wanted a good bike for intermediate single track and commuting.I feel this bike even with a low gear of 32/16 will be a pain to go any type of distance. I am not as concerned about this bike getting a bit trashed.

Anyone have any opinions on either of these set ups???

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[Ziemas]

You might want to consider a geared bike for when you get stuck in 20cm of snow, salt, and sand. A lower gear comes in quite handy to help pull yourself out without having to portage your cycle.

[TimeZer0]

You might want to consider a geared bike for when you get stuck in 20cm of snow, salt, and sand. A lower gear comes in quite handy to help pull yourself out without having to portage your cycle.


I thought about that, but isn't the derailer one of the first things to freeze up or get corroded and trashed from the salt/elements? other than cleaning the bike up after rides, i'd rather not have to do any extra maintenance.

[Ziemas]

I thought about that, but isn't the derailer one of the first things to freeze up or get corroded and trashed from the salt/elements? other than cleaning the bike up after rides, i'd rather not have to do any extra maintenance.
I've never been one to clean up after EVERY ride. Once or twice a month I clean. I also keep a car de-icing scraper/brush next to my bike that I brush the RD and brakes with to get the crap off every morning. It takes only seconds.

I've had bigger problems with the pivot on my FD freezing than the RD. Oil helps to keep things moving.

[CBBaron]

Consider getting both ready for winter. Your nice bike could be used on dry days and you wouldn't need the studs, your old bike could be used when conditions will be bad. That way most days you can ride quickly and comfortably, but when conditions are bad you can have the studded tires and cheap bike you don't care about to take the beating.
As for cleaning, thats why I ride a fixed. The drive train works quietly and efficiently no matter how dirty it is. Last year the bike got cleaned when the temperture got above 50. I think that was sometime in late April. Other than that i put lube on the chain and clipless pedals occasionally and replaced the front brake pads twice. The rear brakes became non-functional early on due to salt corrosion.
Craig

[pinkrobe]

I rode my mtn. bike to work for most of the winter, and the chain rusted solid three times. All I had to do was hose it down with Finish Line oil [wet cond.] and it was fine. I didn't have to shift too much, but I didn't have to deal with heavy wet snow either, so there was no der. freeze-up. I will be running a single-speed this winter, so hopefully I'll have even fewer problems.

WRT the bike choice, the P2 won't be too bad if you ditch the mega-fat tires. If you're running a shorter than stock fork, the head angle will be a lot less sloppy. The main problem will be getting the seat high enough to pedal efficiently. A cheap replacement post should do the trick.