Dwagenheim
Today is my 60th day on the road. Last night we finished up our third beer as it got dark and went to bed. I woke up thirsty around 3am. I'd finished my water in my Camelbak, so I went for the liter of chocolate milk I'd bought at the grocery. I finished that off and went back to sleep. I woke up this morning to another rainforest of condensation in my tent. I packed up my things and headed into town for a hot breakfast. Today I am going to do a little laundry, internet, and check out those bears at Fish Creek as well as the towns of Stewart, B.C. and Hyder, Alaska.
After breakfast, Thomas and I looked for info on the library for some cheap internet. Apparently nobody wants to check out book on the weekend. The library was closed. So we went to a cafe and paid for some overpriced internet. I looked over some emails that made me smile, then I rode over to Hyder to check out the town and do some laundry. On the way there, I ran into Jerry and Dorris who we'd originally met in Bell II and they told me that they were headed up to see Salmon Glacier. I told them I was looking for a ride and they offered to take me along. I dropped my bike off at the Wild Flour Cafe in Hyder, got into my hiking boots and got my camera for the ride. We first stopped at Fish Creek about 3 miles up the gravel road to see if there was any bears feeding. Just before we got there, a big black bear popped out of the bushes on the side of the road and walked across the road in front of us towards the creek. I got out my camera and stuck my head out of the sunroof to take a photo but was too later. The bear had disappeared into the bushes. We arrived at Fish Creek and could smell the rotting fish. Chum and Pink Salmon were spawning in the creek and could be seen in large numbers from the wooden observation deck. Usually both grizzly and black bears can also be seen at the creek feeding on the fish throughout the day, but predominately in the early morning and late evening. There were none feeding when we got there. I saw Mike at the end of the observation area listening to "The bear guy", who's been out here photographing and following bears for 20 or 30 years. Mike is a freelance photographer who I met on the road out to Stewart yesterday. He's a friendly guy I'd been running into throughout the day. I was impressed with the expensive looking cameras he had with him and that's how I found out he was a photographer. I listened to the bear guy for a bit, asked a few questions, and then gave Mike my email info to keep in touch before Jerry, Dorris, and I moved on for the rough 37 km ride uphill to view Salmon Glacier. The ride was bumpy and slow as we tried to avoid large potholes ion their tiny Ford Escort. We had some good conversation about world politics, marriage, human nature, and society. I was happy to talk about such things with such an intelligent couple. We enjoyed the views as we rode up the valley towards the glacier. The day was beautiful, blue skies and sunny. We passed areas that showed evidence of a heavy past in mining. We talked about mining and gold panning and Jerry told me how he'd panned by a creek and found a flake of gold. We continued up the valley and reached the foot of Salmon Glacier. From here on, the views became more and more spectacular as we followed the glacier up closer to its origin, high in the mountains. We spent some time up at the viewpoint taking photos and talking to other tourists. Jerry and I munched on some delicious cinnamon buns from the bakery that Dorris had got for us before we left. We then continued further up the road that warned of being rougher than the previous 37 km. We were able to get some different views of the glacier and checked out a huge mining tunnel that seemed to go straight through a mountain to the other side. Jerry and I figured it was used for transport of materials during the mining days. From here, we headed back down the valley, stopping along the way for more photos of the beautiful valley below us. The car ride was making me tired and I was not looking forward to cycling out of Stewart tonight like Thomas and I had planned. When we got back down to Salmon River, closer to Hyder, we spotted Thomas and his bike near the river. He was taking a break. He informed us he was cycling up to Salmon Glacier, quite an ambitious task, I thought. I warned him of the rough road and long uphill, but he was determined to do it. So this meant we'd leave tomorrow instead of tonight. Perfect. I was in no rush to leave this place, especially after such a wonderful day. We stopped back at Fish Creek to learn a bear had shown up and put on quite a show for the eagerly waiting spectators after we left. It was probably the one that crossed the road in front of us on our way up. Unfortunately, there was no feeding going on at Fish Creek for the second time, so we drove back to Hyder. I said goodbye to Jerry and Dorris and gave them my email info to stay in touch. I enjoyed spending the day with this couple. We had lots of nice things to talk about. I went to the RV park and took a shower and threw in a load of laundry, then I headed out of town towards Stewart. Before leaving, the shop closest to the border caught my eye. Fudge. I turned around and stopped in. It was more of a local artisan's gallery than a fudge shop, but Caroline quickly offered me a sample of fudge. Sold. I got a chunk of snickers fudge and chatted with her about her crafts, such as glass bead making, paper making, and other cool projects. She read me a poem from a local artists' poem book. I enjoyed talking with her and asked if I could come back after a quick trip to the grocery in Stewart and cook dinner on her porch. She said sure. I went over to Stewart and had to go through Canadian Customs. The border guard gave me the third degree, making sure I didn't have any tobacco, alcohol or firearms, which I though was pretty funny. You have to watch out for those touring cyclists, you know. I picked up some food and headed back to the Boundary Gallery to prepare dinner. Caroline and I continued our good conversation outside on her porch and I shared my pasta meal with her. After dinner, we talked for some more time and then said goodbye. I headed over to the laundromat to throw my clothes in the dryer. I was feeling a little crazy, and maybe a little stupid, and decided to strip down my bike and ride over to Fish Creek to see if I could see any bears feeding as it was getting dark. I raced over and got there just before closing at 9:45. There were still a few people out on the observation deck looking for a big black bear feeding in the creek. I saw the bear and it was big. But there wasn't enough light to photograph it and it was too far away. I could just see a big black figure zig-zagging the creek with its head down feeding on salmon. The ranger told us it was time to go, so I hopped on the bike and quickly sped back towards Hyder, whistling along the way to give warning to any roadside bears that I was coming through. It probably wasn't very smart riding around this area in the dark. I could see well enough to ride, but I probably wouldn't have much warning if a bear decided to cross the road in front of me. About a mile down the road, I was clear of the rotten fish odor of Fish Creek and was pretty confident I was out of the most dangerous area when I was stopped in my tracks by loud sounds of bears coming from the bushes. They weren't pretty sounds either. It sounded like two very large bears were having a disagreement over some fish and I didn't want to investigate. I knew there were cars behind me, the stragglers from the observation area, and I waited for their arrival. Soon the line of cars approached the sketchy area and I used them to escort my nervous ass past the bear sounds. I rode with the cars the rest of the way back to Hyder, using their headlights to see the rough road and to help avoid the many potholes. I made it safely back to the laurndromat to collect my clothes. I put on my headlamp and rode into Stewart and back to the same campsite from last night. I pitched my tent and wiped out the moisture of last night's condensation with my paktowl before setting up my bed, writing in my journal, and going to sleep in the comfortable silence of the outskirts of this small town. (21 miles)
Peace
Dave
After breakfast, Thomas and I looked for info on the library for some cheap internet. Apparently nobody wants to check out book on the weekend. The library was closed. So we went to a cafe and paid for some overpriced internet. I looked over some emails that made me smile, then I rode over to Hyder to check out the town and do some laundry. On the way there, I ran into Jerry and Dorris who we'd originally met in Bell II and they told me that they were headed up to see Salmon Glacier. I told them I was looking for a ride and they offered to take me along. I dropped my bike off at the Wild Flour Cafe in Hyder, got into my hiking boots and got my camera for the ride. We first stopped at Fish Creek about 3 miles up the gravel road to see if there was any bears feeding. Just before we got there, a big black bear popped out of the bushes on the side of the road and walked across the road in front of us towards the creek. I got out my camera and stuck my head out of the sunroof to take a photo but was too later. The bear had disappeared into the bushes. We arrived at Fish Creek and could smell the rotting fish. Chum and Pink Salmon were spawning in the creek and could be seen in large numbers from the wooden observation deck. Usually both grizzly and black bears can also be seen at the creek feeding on the fish throughout the day, but predominately in the early morning and late evening. There were none feeding when we got there. I saw Mike at the end of the observation area listening to "The bear guy", who's been out here photographing and following bears for 20 or 30 years. Mike is a freelance photographer who I met on the road out to Stewart yesterday. He's a friendly guy I'd been running into throughout the day. I was impressed with the expensive looking cameras he had with him and that's how I found out he was a photographer. I listened to the bear guy for a bit, asked a few questions, and then gave Mike my email info to keep in touch before Jerry, Dorris, and I moved on for the rough 37 km ride uphill to view Salmon Glacier. The ride was bumpy and slow as we tried to avoid large potholes ion their tiny Ford Escort. We had some good conversation about world politics, marriage, human nature, and society. I was happy to talk about such things with such an intelligent couple. We enjoyed the views as we rode up the valley towards the glacier. The day was beautiful, blue skies and sunny. We passed areas that showed evidence of a heavy past in mining. We talked about mining and gold panning and Jerry told me how he'd panned by a creek and found a flake of gold. We continued up the valley and reached the foot of Salmon Glacier. From here on, the views became more and more spectacular as we followed the glacier up closer to its origin, high in the mountains. We spent some time up at the viewpoint taking photos and talking to other tourists. Jerry and I munched on some delicious cinnamon buns from the bakery that Dorris had got for us before we left. We then continued further up the road that warned of being rougher than the previous 37 km. We were able to get some different views of the glacier and checked out a huge mining tunnel that seemed to go straight through a mountain to the other side. Jerry and I figured it was used for transport of materials during the mining days. From here, we headed back down the valley, stopping along the way for more photos of the beautiful valley below us. The car ride was making me tired and I was not looking forward to cycling out of Stewart tonight like Thomas and I had planned. When we got back down to Salmon River, closer to Hyder, we spotted Thomas and his bike near the river. He was taking a break. He informed us he was cycling up to Salmon Glacier, quite an ambitious task, I thought. I warned him of the rough road and long uphill, but he was determined to do it. So this meant we'd leave tomorrow instead of tonight. Perfect. I was in no rush to leave this place, especially after such a wonderful day. We stopped back at Fish Creek to learn a bear had shown up and put on quite a show for the eagerly waiting spectators after we left. It was probably the one that crossed the road in front of us on our way up. Unfortunately, there was no feeding going on at Fish Creek for the second time, so we drove back to Hyder. I said goodbye to Jerry and Dorris and gave them my email info to stay in touch. I enjoyed spending the day with this couple. We had lots of nice things to talk about. I went to the RV park and took a shower and threw in a load of laundry, then I headed out of town towards Stewart. Before leaving, the shop closest to the border caught my eye. Fudge. I turned around and stopped in. It was more of a local artisan's gallery than a fudge shop, but Caroline quickly offered me a sample of fudge. Sold. I got a chunk of snickers fudge and chatted with her about her crafts, such as glass bead making, paper making, and other cool projects. She read me a poem from a local artists' poem book. I enjoyed talking with her and asked if I could come back after a quick trip to the grocery in Stewart and cook dinner on her porch. She said sure. I went over to Stewart and had to go through Canadian Customs. The border guard gave me the third degree, making sure I didn't have any tobacco, alcohol or firearms, which I though was pretty funny. You have to watch out for those touring cyclists, you know. I picked up some food and headed back to the Boundary Gallery to prepare dinner. Caroline and I continued our good conversation outside on her porch and I shared my pasta meal with her. After dinner, we talked for some more time and then said goodbye. I headed over to the laundromat to throw my clothes in the dryer. I was feeling a little crazy, and maybe a little stupid, and decided to strip down my bike and ride over to Fish Creek to see if I could see any bears feeding as it was getting dark. I raced over and got there just before closing at 9:45. There were still a few people out on the observation deck looking for a big black bear feeding in the creek. I saw the bear and it was big. But there wasn't enough light to photograph it and it was too far away. I could just see a big black figure zig-zagging the creek with its head down feeding on salmon. The ranger told us it was time to go, so I hopped on the bike and quickly sped back towards Hyder, whistling along the way to give warning to any roadside bears that I was coming through. It probably wasn't very smart riding around this area in the dark. I could see well enough to ride, but I probably wouldn't have much warning if a bear decided to cross the road in front of me. About a mile down the road, I was clear of the rotten fish odor of Fish Creek and was pretty confident I was out of the most dangerous area when I was stopped in my tracks by loud sounds of bears coming from the bushes. They weren't pretty sounds either. It sounded like two very large bears were having a disagreement over some fish and I didn't want to investigate. I knew there were cars behind me, the stragglers from the observation area, and I waited for their arrival. Soon the line of cars approached the sketchy area and I used them to escort my nervous ass past the bear sounds. I rode with the cars the rest of the way back to Hyder, using their headlights to see the rough road and to help avoid the many potholes. I made it safely back to the laurndromat to collect my clothes. I put on my headlamp and rode into Stewart and back to the same campsite from last night. I pitched my tent and wiped out the moisture of last night's condensation with my paktowl before setting up my bed, writing in my journal, and going to sleep in the comfortable silence of the outskirts of this small town. (21 miles)
Peace
Dave