Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - This doesn't seem like a very good idea.

This (http://cgi.ebay.com/The-Ultimate-Fixed-Gear-Conversion-Adaptor-Bicycle_W0QQitemZ7181875318QQcategoryZ42332QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) seems pretty obviously flawed.

So basically, that lets you build a bum-bike wheel with lockring threads? How does it stay on the freewheel if you don't use loctite as suggested? And why blue loctite?

Crap, I just saw their location, too. Glad it was St. Paul and not MPLS :D

Hmmm...do I put 6 bullets in the gun for this round of Russian Roullette or 1?

basically it's the same as not using a lockring at all, just loctite. you would have to be very careful riding a bike like that. :rolleyes:

wow.... the word "pointless" doesn't quite describe that thing.

There's a sucker born every minute...
$40 hmmmm...how much are real track hubs again?

So, it gives you a suicide hub that allows easy cog changes. That's about it. If you JB weld it on, I suppose it could be the world's most ghetto track hub...

All of the danger, none of the inconvenience!

There's a sucker born every minute...
$40 hmmmm...how much are real track hubs again?

why buy new hubs when you can take an old shoddy dished wheel and add an finely machined extension? :)

I like how he claims that you should put blue Loctite on there to keep it from loosening when you're stopping.. and then like two sentences later he notes how "best of all" parts fastened with blue Loctite are removable with regular hand tools.

I wrote to the seller.

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Hi

This item is dangerous. How do you prevent it from backing off the freewheel threads? Loctiting the adapter/cog/lockring assembly to the freewheel threads is functionally the same as threading the cog straight to the freewheel threads itself. Yes your setup keeps the chainline straight but PLEASE think about the unsuspecting buyer who tries to skid or skip stop and breaks that loctite bond. Loctite is not permanent as you know. Even the red loctite can break free from the forces involved in a quick stop on a fixed gear bike.

Apologies, but driveline failure on a fixed gear can cause a really bad wreck and often in an emergency situation.

Best,



This (http://cgi.ebay.com/The-Ultimate-Fixed-Gear-Conversion-Adaptor-Bicycle_W0QQitemZ7181875318QQcategoryZ42332QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) seems pretty obviously flawed.

Brakes?

I bet it would be useful on non-dishable rear wheels designed for multi-speed bikes, such as discs or bladed spokes.

Still, a bit overpriced.

He was stupid enough to admit he designed it himself...

He was stupid enough to admit he designed it himself...

It's a rip off of HED's disc wheel adapter, he didn't design it himself. At least no the concept. Probably just jigged some of the dimensions around. I have one on my disc and after numerous kilo starts, I needed a blowtorch to get it loose enough to come off. No loctite either. so if you really crank that sucker on hard enough, it will stay put.

I wonder how much his local machine shop is charging him for those. My guess is that his markup is less than 10 bucks. Custom machined parts are pretty expensive. If they weren't you'd see a lot more people machining parts.

You can expect this dude to realize his business sense failed him and this was a poor idea.

Interesting how popular conversions are that these types of people are popping up to make a buck off the craze.

just wondering, but would this be a good idea for if you were just going to do a ss conversion rather than a fix, as far as chainline goes?

This sort of conversion tool is useful as said before on wheels that can't be redished. I wouldn't loctite that, I'd jb weld that bad boy. No reason to have to ever remove it.

just wondering, but would this be a good idea for if you were just going to do a ss conversion rather than a fix, as far as chainline goes?
Yeah, it would probably help out your chainline if your freewheel was inboard of your cranks.

But it also might help to just redish the wheel a bit, and rearrange your spacers. And that is free.

As others have said this concept was originally for disc wheels and so forth and intended for track use -- the real version had the threads angled, I'm not sure what the term is, so as you threaded it on to the hub it got tighter and locked on. I'm not sure if this piece is like that, or if it locks strongly enough for street use (since on the track they generally don't have to skip stop at intersections and whatnot). *shrug*

It's not bad, actually... You get to keep your old wheel, and you have lockring threads, probably a decent chainline, and no need to redish. Apply strongest loctite and rotafix it on, it should stay. Good solution for starting up in fixed, which presupposes a front brake anyway.