Commuting - What *SLICK* tire is the most flat-resistant (i.e. Kevlar BELTED)?

I'm in need of of 26" X 1.5 SLICK Kevlar Belted tire.

I need recommendations from other members.

I want to optimize my SPEED with the durability of a good, Flat-resistant tire for my MTB.

Chime in and share your ideas. Thanx.

I'm on my second or third set of Vredestein s-licks and have never had a flat (touch wood). They are also quite fast.

I'm on my second or third set of Vredestein s-licks and have never had a flat (touch wood). They are also quite fast.


Okay, I tried reading what Sheldon Brown had on his sight about tires and the like, but all it did was raise the rolling resistance of my brain, I think, so forgive me here: Isn't saying one tire is faster than another like a runner saying they run faster in the blue shoes instead of the red?

Isn't saying one tire is faster than another like a runner saying they run faster in the blue shoes instead of the red?

Well, not quite. Tires with vastly different tread patterns (say, spiked snow tires versus slicks) will make a very noticeable difference. Once you are already assuming slicks, however, that difference is going to be pretty minimal since other factors (such as aerodynamics) have a much, MUCH larger effect on performance. The difference in rolling resistance between various slicks might be 10 watts, out of about 200 total. Not a big deal.

To answer the OP, I've had great luck with Marathon slicks in the size you mention. Quite flat resistant and tough, handle well, decent comfort.

If you want FAST, try drop bars. A more aerodynamic position would make a bigger difference.

Specialized Armadillos, no question. I have them on all my commuter bikes, and I've never had a flat. There are many different ones to choose from, just go to the specialized website. Yes, they are a bit pricey, but worth every penny.

http://www.schwalbetires.com/on_tour_touring.php?Nickname=MARATHON%20PLUS&Image=TireImages/marathon_plus.gif

prob the toughest tire you can get but check the weight before
you buy

I continue to like my Schwalbe Marathon Plus after two years and about 5,000 flat-free miles. Low rolling resistance, thick tread and casing, and gratifyingly heavy. Before I got them, I was getting a flat every 200 miles or so.

If the roles of cars and bicycles were reversed in our society, everyone would use them :)

My wife has Specialized Armadillos on her road bike. They have also held up fine, although they only go a few hundred miles per year. If properly pumped up, they don't seem slow at all.

Paul

Okay, I tried reading what Sheldon Brown had on his sight about tires and the like, but all it did was raise the rolling resistance of my brain, I think, so forgive me here: Isn't saying one tire is faster than another like a runner saying they run faster in the blue shoes instead of the red?

Nope, it's more like a runner being able to run faster (or be less likely to suffer injury) in one brand/model of shoe than another.

Road tires are running shoes, Knobbies are hiking boots.

The tires make more difference to how "fast" a bike is than any other part, by far.

http://sheldonbrown.com/tires

Sheldon "Licorice Donuts" Brown
+-----------------------------------------------------------+
| It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours |
| of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills |
| and coast down them. |
| Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a |
| motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have |
| no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven |
| through as you gain by riding a bicycle. |
| -- Ernest Hemingway, By-Line |
+-----------------------------------------------------------+

Sheldon,
your captainbike.com link seems to be down.

schwalbe super marathon.


EDIT... i think that should be marathon plus... :o

Alright I've narrowed down my tire to be the Schwalbe Marathon Slick or Panaracer T-Serv.

My stock MTB tire size currently is 26" X 1.95 Will I be able to safely ride with 26 X 1.35 size tires as that is the only one I see that fits my needs??????

Hi,
Panaracer tends to be skinny, I wouldn't go thinner than 1.5...
But the answer is yes, that will be fine. My XO2 came with Tom Slick 1.4 tires and I rode them for years.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Continental Sport Contact... light and highly punctore resistant.

Hi,
Panaracer tends to be skinny, I wouldn't go thinner than 1.5...
But the answer is yes, that will be fine. My XO2 came with Tom Slick 1.4 tires and I rode them for years.

So I can safely ride with less than 1.5 even though my stock MTB tire is 1.95???

What is the lowest I can safely go, like 26 X 1.0???

Cyclaholic,

Are the continental Sport Contacts Kevlar Belted???

One inch tires ride like bricks. Stick with 1.4 or 1.5.

I think you'll get 10 million different answers to this one, but I'll chime in with Bontrager Hardcase tires such as the "Satellite Elite Hardcase". I use the "Race Lite Hardcase" tires and I have been very happy with them. Anything that holds up to the crap on NYC streets gets my vote. :)

I still say the Serfas Drifter.....heavy as hell, but not only has a nice thick kevlar belt, but also has significant rubber thickness in the center region.

It's not a true slick, but it rolls like one (inverse tread).

Is ride quality still Harsh on 1.35 s??

I cant find any Marathon Slicks in 1.5. Drat.

That would depend on the tire.
Some brands run small,and a belted sidewall
makes for a harsher ride. But
for most tires it would be ok.

Don't be too hung up about slicks. I realize that in a previous post I said something like "get slicks", but that was in response to your post where you said you wanted a treaded pattern to help you with traction. I was trying (unsuccessfully, it seems) to make the point that tread patterns really don't make *that* much difference in the day-to-day real world of commuting.

The main point isn't that having some tread is much worse than having slicks, it's not. The point is that having some tread doesn't really ADD anything to traction. Even the Marathon Slick has a bit of tread pattern. On a scale of 1 to 10 where 10 is the most traction, on a particular tire if all other factors were equal, the slick version would be a 10 and the lightly treaded version would probably be an 8 or 9. By "lightly treaded", I mean the kind of tread pattern found on a Panaracer Pasela GT or T-Serv, for example... not knobbies.

If I were you, I would decide on a tire that is suited to my needs regardless of if it is slick or treaded somewhat. Whether it is slick or slightly treaded is a distant second in importance to all the other factors such as rubber compound for traction, rolling resistance, puncture resistance, tire weight (has a big effect on acceleration and braking) and ride quality.

Cyclaholic,

Are the continental Sport Contacts Kevlar Belted???

I'm 99% sure they are, I have a new pair at home waiting to be fitted. I'll confirm it for you tonight and let you know.

The Marathon Slicks in 1.35 should not be a bad replacement for a 1.5.

I agree with Michaelnel about slicks vs tread.

Slicks are nice, but they aren't necessary. It's aggressive knobs that slow you down. Inverse treads are as good as a lick anyday, just heavier due to more rubber being on teh tire. Then you have "city treads", where there is a tight packed group of knobs, meant to provide traction, but still have some semblance of grip for any sand/grit that's on the road.

Actually it's grit that bugs me when riding around on my roadie...that stuff is outright hazardous around corners...and then I DO wish i had treaded tires...unfortunately most 25c and udner tires are slicks, or semi-slicks where the only thing keeping them from being full slicks is some siping.

Marathon Slicks are a decently fast with good flat protection. Marathon Plus is considerably slower but tougher. Straight Marathons are in between. I've used Marathon Slicks, Marathons and Vredstein S-Licks in addition to Schwalbe Stelvios in 26"x1 size. The Marathon Slicks are tougher but slower than the S-Licks, Stelvios are much faster but very fragile. Marathons are tougher but a little slower. If you deal much with sand or other loose debris Marathons are probably yor best commuter tire otherwise I like the Marathon Slicks. If your commute is reasonably clean then S-Licks will give you a little more speed with out being fragile. Race tires like the Top Slicks or Stelvios should only be used on very clean roads or where you don't mind the occasional flat. I usually ride Marathon Slicks on my commute but will upgrade to a Stelvio for a long weekend ride.
Craig

use Goo Tubes... flats are a very rare thing

Can I assume that these recommendations would be the same for a 700c hybrid?

I'd suggest referring to the many other threads on this topic. Once you get it down to a few specific models ... querry the specific model name and you'll find even more info.

And as for any specific advice I can offer you ... I just bought my first slick tire to use on my MTB ... after a piece of glass cut my old tire and gave me my 4th flat in the past 6 months.

I went with a Michelin Country Rock Tire - 26 x 1.75
http://www.rei.com/product/47849187.htm

I've been very happy with it!

Can I assume that these recommendations would be the same for a 700c hybrid?

I've used regular Schwalbe Marathons on my old Trek 7000 mountain bike (26x1.5) and now on my Surly Cross Check (700x32) and both have been excellent. Just two or three flats in about 6,000+ miles of riding.

Highly recommended :)

What contributes more to speed, the narrowness of a tire or Weight of it???

Does the weight of a tire contribute *Significantly* to speed?

I meean i wanna get the panaracer T-Serv tires. They're only 269 Grams cut are in 26 X 1.75 for my MTB.

However the IRC Slick Kevlar Belted tires that My LBS reccomending is 570 Grams but 26" X 1.5?

Which will make me faster the wider lighter slick or Narrower heavier slick???

Which

What contributes more to speed, the narrowness of a tire or Weight of it???

Does the weight of a tire contribute *Significantly* to speed?

I meean i wanna get the panaracer T-Serv tires. They're only 269 Grams cut are in 26 X 1.75 for my MTB.

However the IRC Slick Kevlar Belted tires that My LBS reccomending is 570 Grams but 26" X 1.5?

Which will make me faster the wider lighter slick or Narrower heavier slick???

Which


The weight of a tire comes into play any time you need to change the speed at which it is rotating. If you are stopped, and have to get going, a heavier tire will be harder to get moving. It is harder to accelerate with a heavier tire & wheel than it is with a lighter one. It also takes more effort to stop a heavier one.

If your commute requires that you stop often for stop signs, signals, other traffic, then a lighter tire will give you an advantage, because in that kind of riding you are always speeding up or slowing down.

Once you are up and rolling at the speed you want, the weight of the tire is less of a factor.

BTW, IRC tires are cheap Chinese junk.

I've never seen so much agonizing over buying tires. Just buy something and try it!

What contributes more to speed, the narrowness of a tire or Weight of it???

Does the weight of a tire contribute *Significantly* to speed?

I meean i wanna get the panaracer T-Serv tires. They're only 269 Grams cut are in 26 X 1.75 for my MTB.

However the IRC Slick Kevlar Belted tires that My LBS reccomending is 570 Grams but 26" X 1.5?

Which will make me faster the wider lighter slick or Narrower heavier slick???

Which

If those are the true weights of the tires you are looking at then I guess that the Panaracer are easily faster as the lighter construction will flex easier. However I greatly doubt that a 26x1.75 Kevlar belted tire is only 269g. That weight is probably for thier lightest model of T-Serv.
Width by itself contributes very little to differences in rolling resistance. Air pressure, construction/weight and tread are bigger factors. However a heavier tire of the same size is also very likely less flat prone. The reason that narrow tires are usually faster is because they are usually lighter and can be run at a higher pressure.
Weight plays a difference in the speed of a tire not only because of the rotational inertial but also because a heavier tire will require more energy to flex. The side walls of the tire are constantly flexing where the tire meets the road. Therefore a tire with a stiffer sidewall will take more energy to roll.
Craig

Lots of glass here in Regina. Continental Town & Country were a nice all around tire, but two many flats (five in about 350 kms and its not like I'm trying to run over glass). Wanted the specialized because of all the good reviews. A little too much dough for me. Went with Continental Travel Contact from MEC ($35 CDN). Just passed 1000 kms and no flats (yet). Fairly quick and quiet. No problems in the rain. Mind the loose stuff with them, tho (sand on the road, fine gravel), 'cause they don't handle that well.

Overall I like them and they take a beating.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Continental Sport Contact... light and highly punctore resistant.

This is by far the best choice in this category. I've seen them all folks, and no one but Continental gets my money. They wear like iron too, but provide surprisingly good traction.

Seely,

How are the Continental Sport contacts in terms of SPEED???

I'm interested.

Alright guys,

I received my Sport Continental Contacts yesterday and had em' Installed today and took it out for a spin.

Now before I go on, I must tell you that this is my first time riding slicks in like 11 years. Yup, no joking.

As Soon as i got on and rode, the first thing to really hit me about the tires, is how much they transfer the bumps of the ground to you. A I rode on regular sidewalk, I felt every little bump and line in the side walk in my arms, Especially/mostly the wrists and arms. The knobbies that I had on their prior really absorbed a lot of the bumpiness in the rubber of the tire. So the ride is quite harsh.

The good thing is that I noticed my initial pickup in speed. As soon as I pedal, it doesn't even require me to put much effort if at all, I jump onto a nice flowing speed. maintaining a fast speed is sooooo easy with these new slicks . and the rolling distance is a lot farther then my knobbies. I love everything about my new slicks except for the harsh ride (on bumps). On smooth streets its fine.

I'm running it @ max PSI which is 80 on the,. Besides lowering the PSI what should I do to remove as much as possible the harsh ride quality.
My Brooks Spring saddle should be coming in soon but that takes care of my rump. What about my wrists and arms, they're REALLY absorbing everything.

BTW, my bike is made of Aluminum.

Help.

My suggestion is grips or gloves. Does your grips have any ridges to compress, talking the rubber ones on MTB/hybreds. If not get some new ones with some give. Otherwise, maybe rewrap the handel bars?

Pick up some cycling gloves with LIGHT padding on the palm. Too much padding will pinch the nerves.

I am assumeing you ride with your elbows slightly bent so they can take the shock. That is your suspension. Finally check your hand position. Your wrists should be streight and not bent. Perhaps stop at your LBS to confirm this is good.

Ok thanx for the tips.

It seems most of the "RUFF" ride is traveling from the forks to me. Is there anyway I can put in/add on suspension forks or the like??

A suspension fork would rob so much pedaling power (especially if you ride hills) that you'd be better off going back to your knobby tires if you want comfort. You can't have it all.

OK,

Thanx Joe,

What other possibilities are there for me to minimize as much as possible the bumps from the fork without using a Suspension fork?

Maybe Steel, or carbon frame fork? Would that significantly reduce the harshness????

I received my Sport Continental Contacts and took it out for a spin.

Now before I go on, I must tell you that this is my first time riding slicks in like 11 years. Yup, no joking.

As Soon as i got on and rode, the first thing to really hit me about the tires, is how much they transfer the bumps of the ground to you. A I rode on regular sidewalk, I felt every little bump and line in the side walk in my arms, Especially/mostly the wrists and arms. The knobbies that I had on their prior really absorbed a lot of the bumpiness in the rubber of the tire. So the ride is quite harsh.

This would have to do with tire width and pressure, nothing to do with tread pattern.



The good thing is that I noticed my initial pickup in speed. As soon as I pedal, it doesn't even require me to put much effort if at all, I jump onto a nice flowing speed. maintaining a fast speed is sooooo easy with these new slicks . and the rolling distance is a lot farther then my knobbies. I love everything about my new slicks except for the harsh ride (on bumps). On smooth streets its fine.

I'm running it @ max PSI which is 80 on the,. Besides lowering the PSI what should I do to remove as much as possible the harsh ride quality.

Pressure is the biggie. See http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure



My Brooks Spring saddle should be coming in soon but that takes care of my rump. What about my wrists and arms, they're REALLY absorbing everything.

Lowering the pressure in the front tire will help this without reducing your speed too much.




BTW, my bike is made of Aluminum.

That has basically nothing to do with it. See: http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-materials

Sheldon "Tire Pressure Really Matters" Brown


+--------------------------------------------------------------+
| When I think back on all the crap I learned in high school |
| It's a wonder I can think at all |
| And though my lack of education hasn't hurt me none |
| I can read the writing on the wall --Paul Simon |
+--------------------------------------------------------------+

A suspension fork would rob so much pedaling power (especially if you ride hills) that you'd be better off going back to your knobby tires if you want comfort. You can't have it all.

That is not necessarily true. Better suspension forks have lockouts. Some have a gated response that remain firm until a large enough bump triggers them.

The biggest impact of a suspension fork is the added weight.

That is not necessarily true. Better suspension forks have lockouts. Some have a gated response that remain firm until a large enough bump triggers them.

The biggest impact of a suspension fork is the added weight.

A lockout kind of defeats the purposes here, unless he switches it back and forth every time he wants to stand and pedal or is going to hit a rough section. But you make a good point about better suspension forks offering better response. My experience is mostly with the heavy, soft, stock fork on my Hardrock that I replaced with a Surly steel fork since the bike doesn't really leave pavement any more.

For 26x1.5,WTB Slickasaurus. If you don't mind some tread,but still smooth rolling,at 26x1.75,then Vittoria Randonneurs.

Thanx guys,

My Continental Sport contacts are 26 X 1.6 size tires.
How much do you think I can lower my Pressure in the front tire before there's a significant speed reduction?

Drop bars put your body in a position where it acts as its own suspension; bar-ends will have a little bit of the same effect. Of course, if you want to be really fast, drop bars are better. And yes, drop bars can work on mountain bikes (i've done it, thought it was great) even with v-brakes.

by the way, i agree that with regard to the bumpy ride, you'd be no better off with a steel frame.

I don't think there's an accurate formula for how the rolling resistance of tires changes with changes in tire pressure. I would say, unless your experience with a particular tire indicates otherwise, you can guess that every time you take off 20% of the tire pressure, you add 20% to the tire's rolling resistance. Keeping in mind that over a mile, the difference between 80 psi and 50 psi may add less than one second to your riding time.

What other possibilities are there for me to minimize as much as possible the bumps from the fork without using a Suspension fork?

Wider tires at lower pressure.

Drop bars put your body in a position where it acts as its own suspension; bar-ends will have a little bit of the same effect. Of course, if you want to be really fast, drop bars are better. And yes, drop bars can work on mountain bikes (i've done it, thought it was great) even with v-brakes.

What kind of fork did you have with those drops?

And, honestly, I've found my knobbies and fork are worth it, but that's the way I ride. I like knowing I can hit a patch of sand and still maintain full control of the bike just before taking a curb and only having to use half the energy to absorb the shock. But I ride my bike like it's a tank, not a bike.

I would say, on the pressure, try it and see. I let mine drop from 60-70psi to 35psi sometimes, just to see the difference. Plus, after riding with extra rolling resistance, when I pump them back up I'm still trying to work just as hard, so I get a better turnout.

scwhalbe marathon plus tires are the most flat resistant... you're supposed to be able to run over a tack with them and not get a puncture.