Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - I converted my 2005 Trek 1200 road bike into a fixie and I LOVE IT!!!

Many people said it couldn't be done but, with the help of a very nice and knowledgeable bike shop owner, we were able to make some minor modifications (nothing irreversible) and come out with the gearing I wanted. And the chain has the perfect tension! I used that HTML fixie gearing chart from peak.org and came up with the options that would work. We used an IRO flip flop hub and had to add and move a few washers/spacers around to get good alignment but it worked. And not only that, the chain tension and alignment came out right on the nose. We could'nt even have gotten it any more percise if we had been working with horizontal drop-outs! I'm VERY HAPPY!! Can you tell? :D I'm just elated because I was able to use the frame (my 1200) that I have really grown to love. The whole setup just fits me so well that the thought of having to use a different frame just bummed me out. But this local bike shop owner said it was possible and so I gave it a shot and it worked great!
Now don't get me wrong, there were limited gearing options but it just happened that my preferred setup was one that worked. I am using the 42 on the front and a 14 on the rear. It's a little higher gear than normal on a fixie (or so it seems from my limited experience) but it gives me the ability to go prety fast but still hit most hills around town. Now sometimes I might wish it was a little lower for some of the bigger hills but then on the flats and down hills I really like it. And I figure it will just make me a stronger rider. :)
And I am loving how light my bike feels now! And SO clean and simple and QUIET! And effecient! I rode it for the first time as a fixie today and I found that it seemed accelerate much faster. I guess it's because EVERY bit of power is going directly to the road. Pretty Cool. :)

Here's a pic:

http://supportfortechs.com/Pics/Fixie.JPG

Congrats! I read your previous thread and am glad it all worked out for you.

why did you buy that bike new for that price and then convert to a Fixie...I would think buying maybe a Surly Steamroller or 1x1, Pista, Langster, etc, etc. It would be more effective to spend the 400 to 800 on the all ready SS then a full roadie for like 1000+ bucks!

why did you buy that bike new for that price and then convert to a Fixie...I would think buying maybe a Surly Steamroller or 1x1, Pista, Langster, etc, etc. It would be more effective to spend the 400 to 800 on the all ready SS then a full roadie for like 1000+ bucks!

Read: "Excited about SS/Fixed and have some questions. " That's the prequel to this thread.

Congrats! I read your previous thread and am glad it all worked out for you.
Thanks. :)

What brand chainring do you have on there? Thanks.

What brand chainring do you have on there? Thanks.
It's the stock Bontrager Select crankset (42 tooth). So I guess it's a Bontrager chainring.

Reflector police!!! Get rid of it!

So to get this straight, you rebuilt the same rear rim with an IRO hub? Just asking since it looks like the rims are the same front and back. Either way, it's impressive that you got it to work. Now you'll really confuse the roadies...

And yeah, definitely strip any/all reflectors off that bad boy. Otherwise we'll make fun of you.

And you might want to check your fit on the bike (with or without the help of a shop). I know you said that it fits you perfectly, but you have almost no drop between your saddle and handlebars...though you may have already investigated this and found that fit to be the best on your back, etc.

except for the handbars thats a really nice looking bike

Little to no drop can be really great. It may not be super awesome for aerodynamics and in my experience power can suffer on climbs, but it's not a bad setup for someone who just wants to spend a lot of time in the saddle.

My bikes have very little saddle-to-bar drop.

In fact, if you look at the photo, it looks like it's setup with a more conventional fit ("fistful of post") and it's fairly common for that.

Yeah I'm not saying it's bad or not, I'm just suggesting based on what I see in the photo.

In my experience (which is limited, to be honest), if you buy a "properly"-sized bike these days, it's on the small size for your dimensions. A smaller frame has, among other things, a smaller head tube, and so if you have the correct stem, seat post, etc., you'll generally have some drop, even if you aren't going for the mega-competitive (ultra-jam?) aero fit. If you buy a bike for touring/long distance comfort, then you size up the frame a bit, get a longer head tube (and top tube, to stretch out a bit), and there's obviously less (to no) drop.

I only suggested checking the fit out because I'm sure a lot of people don't think about those things when they first start riding - I didn't until this pain in my back surfaced after spending some long hours in the saddle this summer. Since I'm not sure what route our friend Eric here went, I just wanted to make sure he had investigated that business and can enjoy his new fixie to the max.

And trevor, we know you have little saddle-to-bar drop because you're an old geezer. It's ok. We'll all be like you some day. :p

Hmmm, brifterfixies? Do i see a new trend? Basically, I just like the word brifter. Congrats man, pedal it hard it looks great

Thanks for the compliments!
As far as that one lingering reflector, consider it gone. I just never got around to removing it.
As for the bike size/seat position, the main thing you'll notice is that the I have a basic angled stem that is currently angled up. This makes for a more comfortable riding position. If I flipped it the bars would drop a lot and the seat position would look more conventional. When I drop my hands down to the bottom part of the bars I end up in a nice crouched postion. Any more, though, and I would find my longer rides to be quite uncomfortable. I generally prefer to lean on the comfort side of riding position. But don't get me wrong, I can go plenty fast on it and it sure beats my mountain bike! :D


Now you'll really confuse the roadies...

I actually rode this for about a month with everything stock and was starting to think about entering local races and even comparing myself to other roadies. But then I realized that what I enjoy more than anything is the ride. And a lot of the other boards on this and other bike forums have thread after thread about which derailer is better (I would know becuase I started a few :o ). And that's fine but if you really appreciate the basic art of a nice (a relative term) bike and a good ride, then you are wasting your time fiddling with all that extra stuff. And that's what I love about SS/Fixie is that it's all about the simple/basic bike and drive train and the joy of a nice ride on that beautiful machine and everything else that is good that comes with it (exercise, fresh air, promoting fresh air, motivation, etc...).


except for the handbars thats a really nice looking bike

I'm pretty new to the fixie thing so I don't quite know what's wrong with my hadlebars?

Flip the step and try it for 2 weeks. It may not feel totally comfortable at first, but you will get used to it before long - and then you'll have the benefits of the more aggressive position. I think it looks a little ridiculous the way it is now.

Fit is very individual.

Usualy Ultegra/DA brifters are setup facing up and bars' bends parallel to the horizontal stem, so hoods look like horns (but uglier). Here the stem points up, the bar is tilted downward and the hoods are more flat so he has three hand postition resulting in distinct spine angles: on the flats, on the hoods and in the drops. While it might not look pretty I sort of like and for sure understand this setup.

I am runnnig very similar one on my road bike with Campy brifters, riding mostly in the hoods.

Nice convert. Next step: buy some aero brake levers and lose the STI shifters. You can get a nice set for $20-30.
Oh yea, and lose the rear brake also. Front brake+backpressure = all the braking you need.

Actually that stem looks very steeply angled - flipping it would probably be too much of a drop, so I can understand keeping it in that position.

Since I use long stems (generally 120 mm), I tend to go for flatter ones (+/- 6 degrees). When you have a stem that long, even if it's relatively flat, flipping it will move the bars 2.5 cm vertically, which is quite a bit.

But don't listen to the style police, pick (or keep) the stem length/angle that is the most comfortable for you.

If you want to get a better idea of the different looks just go to trekbikes.com and compare the pics of the 1200 and 1500. They have the 1200 with the stem truned down and the 1500 like I have it on my 1200. Flipping it might not be too bad and I might just try it to see the difference but I like my current setup just fine.

Next step: buy some aero brake levers and lose the STI shifters.
What's the advantage? I like the STI handle position. Would I have to loose those to use the other brakes?


Oh yea, and lose the rear brake also. Front brake+backpressure = all the braking you need.
The two reason's I'm keeping the rear break are: If I ever want to use a SS gear I will have the extra breaking power to go with it (I might never want SS but I won't know until I ride fixed for a while) and I'd have to take all the handlebar tape off to get the break cableing out.
But I have noticed some nice simple handlebar setups and like the idea of going ASAP (as simple as posible) so I would'nt mind some ideas or websites to find out how to better setup the bars.

So to get this straight, you rebuilt the same rear rim with an IRO hub?
Yep. I just broke down the original wheel and took of the cassette and the re-built the wheel with the IRO flip-flop hub. It's a little bigger than the front hub but MUCH lighter than the orginal cassette! My whole bike must have dropped a good pound in weight! :D

What's the advantage? I like the STI handle position. Would I have to loose those to use the other brakes?


They are basically the same, except aero levers are only brake levers, not brake/shift levers. The whole setup will look cleaner and you will drop more weight!

They are basically the same, except aero levers are only brake levers, not brake/shift levers. The whole setup will look cleaner and you will drop more weight!
Gotcha.

Do you guys take the foam tape off your bars and go bear metal?

Do you guys take the foam tape off your bars and go bear metal?
No. Bare metal sucks and is hard on your hands. Tape rocks.

There's nothing wrong with using your STI levers. I wouldn't just because I'd be afraid of accidentally wrecking them and being out a couple hundred bucks. If you do decide to swap out for a set of aero brake levers, look around for the fattest hoods you can find. Shimano has really nailed the ergonomics for riding on the hoods. Cane Creek has some that aren't as nice as STI but are much better than the classic aero brakes.

As for pulling off the rear brake... Eh. Do whatever you like. If you want two brakes, ride two brakes.

I found some Shimano "Aero" brake levers for 49.99. Same ergonomics as my STI's, just without all the extra "stuff".

If you want to stay with Shimano, go for it, but their classic aero lever hoods are narrower than their STI hoods. This equals less comfortable. The Cane Creek levers, while not as wide as STI seem to be wider than the older Shimano stuff and have much nicer rubber.

But whichever, it's your bike.

Flip it.

i love how everyone on the internet tells another guy how his bike would be better if it were set up a certain way...

i love how everyone on the internet tells another guy how his bike would be better if it were set up a certain way...

didn't he post to get other people's opinions? or was everyone just supposed to say "cool".

if he tried it with the stem flipped, and liked it better with it up then thats cool with me. he could tell us about it. maybe he didn't know and now he will try it and like it better.

cool.

I love the style of your bike..even if it was geared..very sleek looking imho. good job on it

Here's an updated pic:
http://supportfortechs.com/Pics/Fixie2.0f.JPG

The more aggressive riding position is'nt that bad. So far I actually like it.

I like it. A welcome change to all the vintage steel rides that populate this board. My eyes can only see so many vintage colnago track bikes!

I like it. A welcome change to all the vintage steel rides that populate this board. My eyes can only see so many vintage colnago track bikes!
:D :D :D

That's why I try to combat them with my quill-hating, carbon fork-loving Steamroller and thoroughly aluminum Jamie Roy. I'm glad there's someone else to take the heat now too! Muwahahaha! Ok, I'm good now.



I like it. A welcome change to all the vintage steel rides that populate this board. My eyes can only see so many vintage colnago track bikes!

Too lazy to read whole thread... Sorry if I'm redundant.

I'm glad you didn't listen to the purists who say you can't build a fixie with horizontal drops and conversions suck etc., and it worked out for you. I did the same, that's why I suggested it in the first place.

Your chain will stretch and then chain tension won't be spot on any more, but you will still have a few options to keep the bike rolling, and in the spring, if you're still loving it, you can buy a dedicated fixie/ss.

Oh, gearing: if you swap out the 42 ring for a 46, you'll get a nice lower gear, and chain tension will be practically the same. Try it out if you can get a 46.

LoFarkas, you were one of the only ones to suggest it. :)

Your chain will stretch and then chain tension won't be spot on any more, but you will still have a few options to keep the bike rolling, and in the spring, if you're still loving it, you can buy a dedicated fixie/ss.
I thought about that. Two things in my favor. I have about 150 to 200 miles on the chain already (from riding it when it was'nt fixed) so the chain has probobly done some of it's initial stretching. And with the wheel pushed completely into the dropouts the chain is on the tight side. Probobly not too tight but tighter than I want it. So I bring it down a milimter tor two (the dropouts are slightly angled) to get the desired tension. So if and when it stretched I can just push it all the way in to the dropouts and tighten it a bit more. Hopefully this will be enough to make up for any additional stretching. But either way I will probobly build a "dedicated" fixie eventually. But who knows.

Oh, gearing: if you swap out the 42 ring for a 46, you'll get a nice lower gear, and chain tension will be practically the same. Try it out if you can get a 46.
And use the same 14tooth on the back?

Finally got to see this thread...

The bike looks great. It's funny so see something that is "roadie" having the fixed treatment. Mess around with the positioning of everything, see how it treats you. I wish I were as lucky as you seem to have been with your gearing choices... hitting that 3:1 ratio with a magic combo is lucky as hell. Way to go.

Keep in mind, if you ever want total freedom for fixed/singlespeed, the ENO hub will always be there.

Cool man!

[off to Trek's website to compare the chainstay lengths of the 1200 and my 2003 2300, mua ha ha ha ha]

Silly me. Of coure, if swap the 42 for a 46, you get a higher gear, not a lower one.

If you add or substract 4 total teeth to the chainring & cog, you end up with the same chain tension. So if 42/14 works, so should 42/18, 38/14, 46/14, 44/16, (which is a perfect around town gear that great man like... me use), 45/13 etc.

Of course, if you try 38/14, you will have to take one link out of the chain.

This method seems to work, esp. if you don't do huge changes. Of course, if you replaced your 42 ring with a 54, then the chain would have to travel at a greater angle along the chainstay, so the chain would probably be too tight for your chainstay length.


(Using a half link, you could make a million more gear combos work: 44/14, 42/16, and so on)

Little to no drop can be really great. It may not be super awesome for aerodynamics and in my experience power can suffer on climbs, but it's not a bad setup for someone who just wants to spend a lot of time in the saddle.

Unless your a dude like me with short stocky legs. If I flip my stem, i get way too streched out and my lower back goes into crazy spasms the next day.

I thought about that. Two things in my favor. I have about 150 to 200 miles on the chain already (from riding it when it was'nt fixed) so the chain has probobly done some of it's initial stretching. And with the wheel pushed completely into the dropouts the chain is on the tight side. Probobly not too tight but tighter than I want it. So I bring it down a milimter tor two (the dropouts are slightly angled) to get the desired tension. So if and when it stretched I can just push it all the way in to the dropouts and tighten it a bit more. Hopefully this will be enough to make up for any additional stretching. But either way I will probobly build a "dedicated" fixie eventually. But who knows.

no need to build a new bike if you dig this one, just take it to a good framebuilder and theylle put track ends on it. theres a builder in richmond who will weld surly track ends on a steel bike for 50 and i think a bit more for aluminum.

Just an update on my Trek 1200. I had it setup with a 14 tooth fixed gear on the back and a 42 tooth on the front. I liked some of the attributes of the fixed gear and it did have a unique feel (one with the bike kind of thing) but I didn't like going down hills with it. There are a lot of hills around here and unless you ride your break or use constant back preasure (which kills the fun of going down a hill) then your leggs are spinning like crazy. I know this is just a part of riding fixie but I don't really like it (that specific attribute). The 42/14 was also a little high gearing for some of the hills. So I put a 44 tooth up front and a 16 tooth SS gear on the hub and really like it. The gearing is a little more hill friendly and the SS gear allows for coasting down hills. I know, coasting is the enemy for some but not for me. I don't coast much durring a ride but enjoy it while going down steep hills. And the SS allows things like take turns sharper and being able hop pot holes and such without still having to pedal. Any, it's a great combo and I think I'll have to join the "SS is the best of both worlds" club. That does'nt mean I can't appreciate riding a fixed gear, but for longer distances and hills I prefer a SS.

Hey, welcome to the club!:D

This means we already have... errrr... two members! Or we had for a day or so, because I just flipped my hub back to the fixed side the day before yesterday. Still not totally sold on fixed, I think I will alternate the two. Anyway, I am practicing backward circles all the time, and I have already managed a 360+ degree crank rotation 4 times:) : proud :

Getting better at hopping curbs, too, nut not nearly feeling as confident on a fix as on a ss.

I might go back and forth from fixed to SS. But for now I prefer SS. I'm sure a lot of it is just giving the fixed setup more time to get used to it. But no matter how much time you give it you will never be able to go down a hill at 30mph on a fixed gear without your legs feeling like they're going to be jerked off. Now some might say, just don't go that fast down the hills but that's a lot of the enjoyment for me. And the coasting is essential.

I might go back and forth from fixed to SS. But for now I prefer SS. I'm sure a lot of it is just giving the fixed setup more time to get used to it. But no matter how much time you give it you will never be able to go down a hill at 30mph on a fixed gear without your legs feeling like they're going to be jerked off. Now some might say, just don't go that fast down the hills but that's a lot of the enjoyment for me. And the coasting is essential.

just put yr feet in the triangle and bomb down the hill!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The easy but pricey solution is to have a roadie and a fixie. When I got the new roadie a couple of years ago I converted the old one to fixed. Best part about riding it is taking a steeper downhill without spinning out or using the brake. Coasting isn't essential, power is!

Congrats on the project. I remember the first thread bringing some hate for your notions, but it turned out really well (especially since you enjoy it).

Here's an updated picture of my Trek 1200 gearing, now with a 44 on the front and a 16 tooth SS on the back.
http:///supportfortechs.com/Pics/SS.JPG

It sure takes some skill to ride a little red "x". How do you mount it?
Anyway, I just wanted to say I got the backward circle thing going! Did a few full 360's that I managed to ride out of, not putting a foot down.