Bicycle Mechanics - Crown Race and Lower Bearing Spacing on Integrated headset??

I am a newbie... and I am sure this is an easy question, put I just want to double check!
I am installing a new carbon fork and Cane Creek IS6 headset on my bike (yes the frame/head tube are compatible). When I put the crown race on the steerer tube it slid easily until it was approx. 5m from the fork crown and I worked it down the rest of the way by hand. When I put the lower bearing on it also stops at the same spot, about 5mm above the fork crown, but doesn't easily slide down any further. I assume that this is where a slide hammer or pipe come into play, but i wanted to make sure the lower bearing wasnt suppose to slide all the way down.. before I force it down further.. Also is there any risk of damaging the bearing cartridge?

Thanks for the advice!

The crown race must be fully seated. It is a very tight fit by design and needs to be driven home. Ideally you would use a crown race seating tool or a large diameter piece of pipe. If you are patient and careful, you can seat it with a drift and hammer. One other tip. Since integrated headsets don't tighten down with a bolt like regular headsets, I've found it handy to assemble everything except the top cap and line up the stem properly with the front wheel. Then I tighten the bolts on the steerer end of the stem just a little. I tap the top of the steerer with a mallet to seat it well. Then I can tighten the bolts and install the top cap. The result should be a headset and steerer with no play side to side, no rattling in use and complete freedom of movement around the head tube. Good luck.

The crown race must be fully seated. It is a very tight fit by design and needs to be driven home. Ideally you would use a crown race seating tool or a large diameter piece of pipe. If you are patient and careful, you can seat it with a drift and hammer. One other tip. Since integrated headsets don't tighten down with a bolt like regular headsets, I've found it handy to assemble everything except the top cap and line up the stem properly with the front wheel. Then I tighten the bolts on the steerer end of the stem just a little. I tap the top of the steerer with a mallet to seat it well. Then I can tighten the bolts and install the top cap. The result should be a headset and steerer with no play side to side, no rattling in use and complete freedom of movement around the head tube. Good luck.Integrated HS use a bolt in the topcap to set bearing preload like any other threadless type. Suggest you check www.parktool.com repair section. I Have no cule what that the underlined stuff it trying to get at other than trying to make something that is relatively easy, incomprehensible.

I am a newbie... and I am sure this is an easy question, put I just want to double check!
I am installing a new carbon fork and Cane Creek IS6 headset on my bike (yes the frame/head tube are compatible). When I put the crown race on the steerer tube it slid easily until it was approx. 5m from the fork crown and I worked it down the rest of the way by hand. When I put the lower bearing on it also stops at the same spot, about 5mm above the fork crown, but doesn't easily slide down any further. I assume that this is where a slide hammer or pipe come into play, but i wanted to make sure the lower bearing wasnt suppose to slide all the way down.. before I force it down further.. Also is there any risk of damaging the bearing cartridge?

Thanks for the advice!The crown race should be a tight fit. The lower beeaing should slide into place easily.You don't use a slide hammer on the bearing.