Advocacy & Safety - VC Free - Tips for riding safely on the road

HH, dude, I love ya. This thread is for you. Perhaps it can even become a sticky. Let's discuss specific tips, tricks, tactics and strategies for riding on the road. Note I didn't include MUPs or sidewalks or bike lanes. I bet we can do this without mentioning VC once (err make that twice :o ), since on the road the only obvious and indeed, in many cases, legal choice is to observe the vehicular rules of the road. Think of this thread as a way to educate newbs and experienced riders alike, including parents who may wish to educate their kids about how to safely cycle on the public roadways. I have confidence in your (and a bunch of other folks) knowledge and experience to present this info in a fashion that everyone can understand, without adding terms and categorization of other riding methods that might confuse them, as well as to avoid the usual VC-anti-VC debates (ok 4 times) that tend to cloud some of the useful information you and others provide. Are ya game?

Ok I will start it off.

My mommy says that I should not ride my bike on the road (she does too). But I have to sometimes to get where I want to go. So when I do I just hug the curb or shoulder as close as possible. Is this ok?

Roody, man I love you too. You are perfectly welcome to be as anal as you want to be concerning the topic at hand. :) (LOL like you care what I think anyway...but I do know that you have a sense of humor and a lot of good info to share as well)

um...chipcom? are you talking to yourself?

um...chipcom? are you talking to yourself?

It's only wierd if I talk back to myself. :p

It's only wierd if I talk back to myself. :p

It's worse if you get into a fight with yourself, and lose.

It's worse if you get into a fight with yourself, and lose.

DOH!!!!

My mommy says that I should not ride my bike on the road (she does too).Assuming you have a road bike, ask your mommy why it's called that. (if you don't have a road bike, maybe your mommy doesn't know the difference)



So when I do I just hug the curb or shoulder as close as possible. Is this ok?
Maybe, if you don't mind sometimes hitting your pedal on the curb and falling off your bike into the street. Personally, I hate it when that happens.

Tip: Beginners & intermediates, go to a parking lot, empty one, and really learn the limits of your bike's cornering and handling. I see a good number of people who have no idea how tight & fast one can turn.

Tip: Practice emergency stops.

I've seen wrecks where either of these skills would have avoided the problem. Being able to not be where the bad thing is about to happen is our first line of defense.

Tip: Beginners & intermediates, go to a parking lot, empty one, and really learn the limits of your bike's cornering and handling ... Tip: Practice emergency stops.

Good points. You know what else should be practiced? I was reading last month's issue of Bicycling magazine, and they had a really good article about Bike Cop School. I've picked up some of the techniques in that article, and they've really helped my riding.

Things like... riding as slow as you can with your brake on to reduce the center of gravity. Things like keeping your balance at sloooooow speeds.

I spend about an hour a week practicing slow riding, track stands, and making little donuts around the manhole covers in my street. All in the vein of learning to balance better on the bike.

Another tip? While you are practicing your slow riding, practice clipping and unclipping, too. Oh, and practice looking back over your shoulder while keeping the bike moving straight forward.

Tim.

Take your bike with you and stand in front of a mirror. Do you look like a car? No. Ride accordingly.

Take your bike with you and stand in front of a mirror. Do you look like a car? No. Ride accordingly.
Take your bike with you and stand in front of a mirror. Do you look like a pedestrian? No. Ride accordingly.

HH, dude, I love ya. This thread is for you. Perhaps it can even become a sticky. Let's discuss specific tips, tricks, tactics and strategies for riding on the road.

I have tried to distill the lessons I have learnt in 20 years of cycling as follows:

1) stay awake and cautious at all times- the same level of attention/caution as you use to drive your car is NOT sufficient

2) assume that they haven´t seen you until proven otherwise - that way you won´t be disappointed very often

3) be visible with lights and reflective clothes but don´t assume the cagers will be able to see you even if you ride around with a flare attached to your head

4) you have a right to a place on the road and ride assertively but don´t get carried away with this- cagers have NEVER heard of VC and thinks bikes are toys

5) whenever you come to ANY intersection check around- I think you know why- if you don´t you soon will

6) be predictable- signal your intention clearly to any other road users but don´t rely on them cooperating

7) if you need to stop suddenly or think you might have to- then brace against the handlebars to stop yourself going over the bars

8) if you are not confident that the situation is under control then bail off to the side (pavement/sidewalk)

When approaching a redlight or stop sign don't be afraid to use the middle of the appropriate traffic lane for your intended direction of travel. Never use the right turn lane for anything other than right turns. Sometimes the BL, if present, will be to the right of the right turn lane. Ignore it under these circumstances. You're much more predictable and safer this way.

If it's a two lane road use the middle of your lane for any direction.

Use arm signals.

If you're new to trailer towing, take a tip from mandovoodoo and practice.

The heavier the load the more it will affect your bike's handling and braking. Especially in wet weather.

From my years as an all weather, year round commuter, I belive that the biggest risk factors for injury is falling down because of pilot error. Here are my tips to help prevent crashng all by yourself:

- slicks provide the best traction on pavement, if that is what you ride on, use slicks. Make sure that you keep them at the proper inflated level
- do not ride over manhole covers or sewer grates, no matter what the cagers think
- cracks in the pavement that run the same direction as you are travelling are very dangerous. Avoid and monitor carefully
- lines painted on pavement are very slippery when wet. Take this into account on rainy days
- if you are going to take a hit from a hole or object you haven't seen until too late, grip your bars and try to take as much weight off the front wheel as you can.
- try to be as "situationally aware" as possible. I try and moniter my surroundings with eyes, ears, and "esp". I don't wear headphones and focus on the road/cars/bike exclusive of anything else.

Take your bike with you and stand in front of a mirror. Do you look like a pedestrian? No. Ride accordingly.

That too..

Brad M,
In what way should cyclists ride differently in traffic than drivers of car drive?

Brad M,
In what way should cyclists ride differently in traffic than drivers of car drive?

Dont exoect drivers to see you or if they see you dont expect them to give a damn.

I assume every driver on the road is a total and complee ****** who doesnt know how to drie around other cars let alone how to drive around a cyclist on a bike. Start in center of lane and keep a eye out for cars or other motor vehicals. Watch them to see what they are going to do when they start to move left move right. This way you end up with alot more room between you and the car even if they intended to only move over far enough to pass you so they dont damage their car.

This can be done effectivly with out a mirror. I my self have no mirror. But obviously a mirror is a big help. Most of the times ive been buzzed the driver has done it purposfully.

[QUOTE=royalflash]
7) if you need to stop suddenly or think you might have to- then brace against the handlebars to stop yourself going over the barsQUOTE]

I wouldn't count on that. If you stop fast enough for what ever reason, then you WILL go over the bars.

:p

John Wilke
Milwaukee

Things like... riding as slow as you can with your brake on to reduce the center of gravity.


How does THAT work??

John Wilke
Milwaukee

It's funny, I do that sometimes but never thought about why it works. I *think* that it helps you keep your body very still, where actually pedalling -- even slowly -- makes you wiggle somewhat. It's the last step before a trackstand. I don't see how it could move your center of gravity.

How does THAT work??

According to the article I read, because you are putting more force on the pedals (to push against the brakes) it lowers the center of gravity to down around the cranks from up around the seat.

Scientifically, it may all be hogwash. But I do know that I am able to stay balanced better at really slow speeds if I am pedalling against the brake than if I"m just coasting.

I think it's why trackstands work, too. You woudn't be able to balance if you weren't pushing on the pedal and preventing the bike from moving with the brake.

Tim.

From my experience, managing traffic falls into two categories: one, avoiding getting hit, and two, avoiding confrontations. Many riders that I have known are actually in as much fear of cat two troubles as they are of cat one.

Here are my category one tips for riding in traffic:
1) follow traffic laws like any other vehicle
2) use common sense to negotiate special situations
3) signal what you are going to do
4) do not show timidity in traffic (no matter how you actually feel)
5) be well lighted at night

In some ways, I think that the Category two tips may be of more use. I have never had a really close call in my years of commuting with a car/bike collision, but there are regular acts of aggression to cope with. So, here are my Category two tips:
1) try not to flinch at horns, shouts, or close drive-bys. Showing weakness or fear will encourage further aggression
2) try not to take it too seriously. In many cases that I have encountered, it was a car of teens or rednecks trying to make their buddies laugh. They did not really have a thing against cyclists, I believe, and they usually just drive away. But such situations can get out of control, so...
3) treat cars and the people in them like a force of nature, or the weather. Ignore them in a regal manner, ie: You take the lane for whatever reason you needed to. A car beeps behind you, revs the engine, and you hear shouting. Slowly, disdainfully, turn your head, look at them, and slowly turn back again as if there was nothing worthy to see back there. Maintain a neutral, barely interested expression. Ignore anything else that happens. Then get out of the way ASAP.
4) active aggression should be reported to the police. If you have a cell phone, use it. If you don't get something out of your backpack or pocket that looks like a cell phone from a distance and pretend to call the cops. (I used a spare tube, all rolled up, once like that)
5) view losing your **** emotionally as a sign of weakness. You are stronger, more honorable, and centered than the cagers... like a samuri maybe. It's silly to get mad at the weather, sometimes the wind blows, sometimes it doesn't.
6) Lastly, always remember this - 3% or so of the adult population has an antisocial personality disorder and is capable of lethal violence if sufficiently aroused. That means if you interact with 200 cars on the way to work, there were around 6 that contained a driver who would kill you if they became sufficiently angered. No matter how big and tough you are, the smallest driver has control of a machine that can killl you instantly. And that isn't considering those that are armed! Even if you win a confrontation one day, you never know when they will be behind you again... after stewing about how you treated them last time for the past three days.

From my experience, managing traffic falls into two categories: one, avoiding getting hit, and two, avoiding confrontations. Many riders that I have known are actually in as much fear of cat two troubles as they are of cat one.

Here are my category one tips for riding in traffic:
1) follow traffic laws like any other vehicle
2) use common sense to negotiate special situations
3) signal what you are going to do
4) do not show timidity in traffic (no matter how you actually feel)
5) be well lighted at night

In some ways, I think that the Category two tips may be of more use. I have never had a really close call in my years of commuting with a car/bike collision, but there are regular acts of aggression to cope with. So, here are my Category two tips:
1) try not to flinch at horns, shouts, or close drive-bys. Showing weakness or fear will encourage further aggression
2) try not to take it too seriously. In many cases that I have encountered, it was a car of teens or rednecks trying to make their buddies laugh. They did not really have a thing against cyclists, I believe, and they usually just drive away. But such situations can get out of control, so...
3) treat cars and the people in them like a force of nature, or the weather. Ignore them in a regal manner, ie: You take the lane for whatever reason you needed to. A car beeps behind you, revs the engine, and you hear shouting. Slowly, disdainfully, turn your head, look at them, and slowly turn back again as if there was nothing worthy to see back there. Maintain a neutral, barely interested expression. Ignore anything else that happens. Then get out of the way ASAP.
4) active aggression should be reported to the police. If you have a cell phone, use it. If you don't get something out of your backpack or pocket that looks like a cell phone from a distance and pretend to call the cops. (I used a spare tube, all rolled up, once like that)
5) view losing your **** emotionally as a sign of weakness. You are stronger, more honorable, and centered than the cagers... like a samuri maybe. It's silly to get mad at the weather, sometimes the wind blows, sometimes it doesn't.
6) Lastly, always remember this - 3% or so of the adult population has an antisocial personality disorder and is capable of lethal violence if sufficiently aroused. That means if you interact with 200 cars on the way to work, there were around 6 that contained a driver who would kill you if they became sufficiently angered. No matter how big and tough you are, the smallest driver has control of a machine that can killl you instantly. And that isn't considering those that are armed! Even if you win a confrontation one day, you never know when they will be behind you again... after stewing about how you treated them last time for the past three days.

Good stuff, I'd just like to add one thing that IMHO is rule #1 and applies to much more than cycling:

ALWAYS BE ALERT AND AWARE OF WHAT IS GOING ON AROUND YOU!

If you like to ride at 20 to 30MPH, you should practice BRAKING at those speeds. Almost nobody does, and it's not a good thing to have your first hard braking experience at 25MPH be an emergency stop.

Who here practices hard braking?

Slowly, disdainfully, turn your head, look at them, and slowly turn back again as if there was nothing worthy to see back there.

"As if" ????????? :D

Oh yeah, braking at at high speeds. Not only should people do this to see how fast/slow they'll stop, but to see how much force on the brake levers it takes from the different positions on the handlebars. Practicing braking while going downhill is also a very good thing.

Practicing braking while going downhill is also a very good thing.

...and be sure to get your ass WAY back if you don't want to learn the true and personal meaning of the phrase "face plant".
:eek:

[QUOTE=royalflash]
7) if you need to stop suddenly or think you might have to- then brace against the handlebars to stop yourself going over the barsQUOTE]

I wouldn't count on that. If you stop fast enough for what ever reason, then you WILL go over the bars.

:p

John Wilke
Milwaukee


You shouldnt go over the bars by braking hard on the flat at least- if you brace against the bars and keep your weight low- I have done a couple of emergency stops and never felt in the least like I was in danger of going over the bars- or am I missing something??

That's why practicing maximum braking is a good idea. Make it so it's natural, the motion of sliding your butt back, and properly modulating the front brake. Sure, if you just grab a big handful of front brake and hope for the best you can go over the bars, but by being concious during practice of what the bike is doing you can learn to let off the front brake somewhat if the rear starts to lift.

But if a panic emergency stop is the first time you have tried maximum performance braking, you are pretty likely to go down.

I recommend practicing hard stops from gradually increasing speeds. Start out from 5MPH. Then try 10. Work your way up. I think most people would be VERY surprised to see how much effort, technique, time and distance it takes to get stopped from 20MPH.

If you like to ride at 20 to 30MPH, you should practice BRAKING at those speeds. Almost nobody does, and it's not a good thing to have your first hard braking experience at 25MPH be an emergency stop.

Who here practices hard braking?

Great idea!

If you like to ride at 20 to 30MPH, you should practice BRAKING at those speeds. Almost nobody does, and it's not a good thing to have your first hard braking experience at 25MPH be an emergency stop.

Who here practices hard braking?


Hmm. I don't practice it, but I figure out what the braking is on whatever bike I own. This is part of what displeases me about having a commuting bike and a riding bike. I don't get the limits down as securely. I'm actually selling my commuter bike so I won't have this problem, along with the talking to myself while shifting effect of having both Shimano & Campy equipped bikes!

I suspect we can boil it down to knowing the performance characteristics without thinking. What are the limits? The pilot's skill, the bike's, the engine, the brakes. Just know the performance envelope. We used to actually measure and write down the performance characteristics for cars. Set the tire pressure by tread temperature, figure out which jacking really got the best cornering rather than rely totally on feel. I know that high-performance aircraft are even more dialed in. This is something we tend to do informally as cyclists. Figure out how fast we can corner, how hard we can climb for how long. Simply bringing this information gathering and analysis into attention probably results in becoming a better cyclist. I suspect this is important for safety in both handling and alertness. A tired cyclist isn't a good cyclist. I have NEVER had a crash when I wasn't tired or distracted by outside influences (such as a certain jiggling along the sidewalk, for example).

Other posts above suggest mindfulness, a certain emotional detachment, and intentional projection of presence on the road. Great points.

Tip: Never pick a fight. Remember, you could be wrong and just excited. Or you could get the tar whupped out of you.

Roody, man I love you too. You are perfectly welcome to be as anal as you want to be concerning the topic at hand. :) (LOL like you care what I think anyway...but I do know that you have a sense of humor and a lot of good info to share as well)
I still think you're a freekin troll so ta-ta. :D

OK, got that out of my system. I would not ride like a car or a pedestrian, ordinarily. I would ride like a smallish and slowish vehicle. I would read about vehicular cycling and gradually incorporate it into my street rides. I have not yet discovered another way to ride safely in traffic, although I have searched dilligently.

-Gets some gear when you can afford? There have been many times where a unnoticed bump in the road or a wobble in my wheel has sent me skidding. Without my gloves, my hands would have been chewed up.
-On the same note, if you are not riding for speed or in a group ride of some type, Ride with long pants, either jeans, leg warmers, or some kind of leg protection. It just makes it so that your legs do not get chewed up as well.
-If you are riding clipless, unclip before you need to stop. It helps with the balance.
-If you are riding a geared bike, ride in the apporpriate gear. It is better to ride your bike sitting down than standing. You have more points of contact with the bike, i.e. more control.
-Stop beside the first car or in front of the second car when riding on the right side. When the light turns green, wait for the first person to go, so that you don't get caught or pinged by the first car. (Use this method only if you do not go into the middle lane.)
-Where a helmet, accidents are not planned and unavoidable when they happen. Close calls are the accidents that were avoidable.
-When you are at a stop light, let the driver(s) next to you know what you are doing. I have tapped on windows, so that driver next to me would not be suprised with a cyclist turning with him or her.
-Maintain your bike often. I tried to do it weekly. You will know what is wrong on your bike before it breaks.
-If you are planning on riding during the winter get things in the following order:
Clothes - If you are cold or frostbiten, you cannot ride, and your life may be in danger.
Lights - Visibility is lower even in the day, so make yourself visible.
Lube - You will need to change it more often with all the salt, sand, snow, and ice down and flying into your bike.
Tires - Depends on the locations, but good winter tires are great for those I am not sure about the roads' conditions days.
Fenders - Protect the bike frame and its drivetrain as best as possible.
I believe I am done.

1) Learn to track stand a bit. Sudden stops are far less dangerous if you can keep your balance, even for a couple of seconds, without trying to unclip and/or put your foot down.

2) If you have ASLs, use them. And don't just get into them on the side, get properly in front of the car, even if it's only in line with the wheel. Making drivers see you and consider changing their path, even a little, is good for your safety.

3) Learn to look over both shoulders. You never know when you might need it and you don't want to be unstable checking the off shoulder.

3) Take your bike in front of a mirror, close your eyes, signal, open your eyes. If you're happy with the profile then good, if not change it. I'm surprised by the number of people who's indication makes them look like a relay runner reaching back for the baton. Drivers can't see this and you need to make an effort to stick your arm way the hell out when you can.

4) Downgear before stopping, especially at intersections. Trying to start whilst in a high gear is bad for your knees, lowers your stability and lowers your acceleration. Accelleration ahead of cars is an important part of making yourself visible. Sure the boy racers like to prove a point and race off of lights. Ignore them, they are fools who pose little threat at this time.

5) Coming up on the inside of drivers at the lights, take the time to read the driver. What are their hands doing, are they about to flip the indicator as they pull off? Do they look tense or relaxed. Do they look at you like just propositioned their mother? Ride accordingly.

6) Show some gratitude. I hate to say it but cyclists can appear to be some of the rudest, least thankful road users. I know that it's not always going to be an option but do make an effort. If your crossing into a lane infront of a driver, turn that hand signal into a thumbs up. If a driver cedes right of way, a wave is the least you can do. Drivers do it too each other and the more you act like them the better you'll get treated by them.

7) Use your front brake more. The effort required to throw you over the handlebars is a lot more than you think, especially as an adult.

8) Going over rough ground such as seams and potholes is to be avoided as much as is safe. However, where unavoidable you should do so while standing up a little with pedals even and knees untensed. You'll take the knock out of road hazard and protect your rear wheel.

Great post, the Seldom Kill! It should be copied and handed out to novice riders. I noticed bad habits of my own today:


1. When attacking a steep hill, many riders have a habit of putting their head down and focussing on their climb. Make sure you always remain aware of traffic and surface conditions, whether you are on the road or a trail.

2. Never rely exclusively on communications from cagers, such as turn signals, waves and other motions. In other words, do NOT trust what they say -- trust what you see them do.

3. If a pedestrian (especially a child or animal) can do something, they will do it. Always steer clear and go slow around pedestrians.

Great idea, using the mirror. I'm going to check my "thumbs up" in the mirror, to make sure it looks like it's my thumb that I'm holding up. ;)

Great idea, using the mirror. I'm going to check my "thumbs up" in the mirror, to make sure it looks like it's my thumb that I'm holding up. ;)

As much as I get dropped, don't be surprised if you see me in your mirror. ;)

Great post, the Seldom Kill! It should be copied and handed out to novice riders. I noticed bad habits of my own today:


1. When attacking a steep hill, many riders have a habit of putting their head down and focussing on their climb. Make sure you always remain aware of traffic and surface conditions, whether you are on the road or a trail.

2. Never rely exclusively on communications from cagers, such as turn signals, waves and other motions. In other words, do NOT trust what they say -- trust what you see them do.

3. If a pedestrian (especially a child or animal) can do something, they will do it. Always steer clear and go slow around pedestrians.

Planning for Murphy! Roody, the force is strong within you and yes, I am your father.

Cars will underestimate your speed at night. I live on a steep hill and I can't tell you how many cars have pulled out in front of me and I nearly went through their rear window. Be ready to brake.

That's why practicing maximum braking is a good idea. Make it so it's natural, the motion of sliding your butt back, and properly modulating the front brake. Sure, if you just grab a big handful of front brake and hope for the best you can go over the bars, but by being concious during practice of what the bike is doing you can learn to let off the front brake somewhat if the rear starts to lift.

But if a panic emergency stop is the first time you have tried maximum performance braking, you are pretty likely to go down.

I recommend practicing hard stops from gradually increasing speeds. Start out from 5MPH. Then try 10. Work your way up. I think most people would be VERY surprised to see how much effort, technique, time and distance it takes to get stopped from 20MPH.

My cdale t400 stops on a dime. I can come to a complete stop from 20+ in about 10 or so feet. Mostly cause i can just jam on the front breaks and rear. I tend to sit further back on my seat and have it set back kind of far to begin with. I use seat position to help me get more flat when on the drops.

Now on other bikes id be scared to death to jam the front breaks hard and likly still have a hard time stoping.
Ive seen people with bikes that come to a dead stop from 20+ in less than 5 feet realy soft compound in their tire combined with the ruff peble textured pavement we have around here and you can just stop damn fast. Probably why i stop so easly as well. I run a aocet crit 20 on rear and a vittoria on front.

Cars will underestimate your speed at night.

They do it in the daytime too.