Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - The Over 200 Pounds Thread: Clydesdale-O-Rama

So I'm 6'3'' and at about 225lbs and I'm looking for a lite road bike that can last. Reading through out the forum on the wieght weenie models I know most of those models would not work with people in the clydesdale category so basically I'm looking for a weight weenie version for clydesdale...hahaha Im looking for the lightest setup that can still stop on a dime with my weight. I'm looking to spend around
$3k on one.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I know some 250 Clydes that ride Orbeas full Carbon rides.

So I'm 6'3'' and at about 225lbs and I'm looking for a lite road bike that can last. Reading through out the forum on the wieght weenie models I know most of those models would not work with people in the clydesdale category so basically I'm looking for a weight weenie version for clydesdale...hahaha Im looking for the lightest setup that can still stop on a dime with my weight. I'm looking to spend around
$3k on one.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Specialized Tarmac would be my suggestion, CF Frame asnd <20 lbs rolling!~ Multiaxis CF Frame, stiff and sporty! Very nice bike! Look here (http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=13003)
About $2800.00, and a fine bike!

So I'm 6'3'' and at about 225lbs and I'm looking for a lite road bike that can last. Reading through out the forum on the wieght weenie models I know most of those models would not work with people in the clydesdale category so basically I'm looking for a weight weenie version for clydesdale...hahaha Im looking for the lightest setup that can still stop on a dime with my weight. I'm looking to spend around
$3k on one.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I'm 230 lbs, and am riding a Giant OCR Limited CF bike. I ride many centuries, and have found it to be a good, solid, comfortable performer. I found the stock wheels to be a bit flexy for me, so I upgraded them. But the frame and componentry are just fine for a heavier rider.

Are any of your guys using Dura Ace pedals, how much do you weigh, how many miles on the pedals, how is the bearing durability?
tell me what you think, I am thinking of getting a pair.
If not, what pedal are you using and what do you think according to the same questions?

Are any of your guys using Dura Ace pedals, how much do you weigh, how many miles on the pedals, how is the bearing durability?
tell me what you think, I am thinking of getting a pair.
If not, what pedal are you using and what do you think according to the same questions?

5'8, 240 on Ultegra pedals. No problems but only 400 miles.

I've been using the Dura-Ace pedals for about a year, and I'm 300+. (I wouldn't have gone for something this nice but I bought them on clearance at the same price as the Ultegra.) No problems with the pedals themselves. I would like to move the pedals out a bit using spacers, but the Knee-Savers spacers don't work with this model. I'm thinking of replacing the spindle to one that would let me use the Knee-Savers. But the bearings are in good shape, and I like the wide platform. I have fewer hot spots with these pedals. I'd say I've put about 2,500-3,000 miles on them so far.

I'm looking for Clydesdales near Boston, MA. Any out there want to come and ride?

Peace.
Eric

Why not? I am in Bedford... Riding the lake in Wakefield every morning...

I am 6'2" 225llbs.

Looking for a great all around bike. Never thought weight was an issue in cycling.

I am currently looking at a Specialized Tri Cross or Sport.

I want to be able to do some road biking some small off road stuff (dirt paths easy mountain trails).
and bang around with the Family.

Any good suggestions. I am still trying to stomach the price of the Tri Cross sport. I am afraid to go to cheap and spend on upgrading later like my golf clubs

Are any of your guys using Dura Ace pedals, how much do you weigh, how many miles on the pedals, how is the bearing durability?
tell me what you think, I am thinking of getting a pair.
If not, what pedal are you using and what do you think according to the same questions?

6'4" 240lb - ultegra pedals. 1350 miles - no problems.

So I'm 6'3'' and at about 225lbs and I'm looking for a lite road bike that can last. Reading through out the forum on the wieght weenie models I know most of those models would not work with people in the clydesdale category so basically I'm looking for a weight weenie version for clydesdale...hahaha Im looking for the lightest setup that can still stop on a dime with my weight. I'm looking to spend around
$3k on one.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I would suggest a hybrid frame. I'm 6'1" 260 pounds. I ride a 1999 Trek 2100. This bike has Alpha AL frame with carbon seat stays and front fork. I have close to 8000 miles in last three seasons. You get the strengh of the Alpha AL but the cushion from the carbon. I ride this bike hard and I can attest to its dependablity and durability. I use Time Cyclo peddles. They are easy in/out cleat. Plenty of float for the person concerned about knee issues. With the 2100 listing at about 1600. That gives you alot of cash for goodie which are just as important. Heres a pic of my Trek I took last week. It is a work horse.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e47/bluyak/Trek2100_01.jpg

Bluyak, I like your setup there, what kind of rack is that?

I'm 230 lbs, and am riding a Giant OCR Limited CF bike. I ride many centuries, and have found it to be a good, solid, comfortable performer. I found the stock wheels to be a bit flexy for me, so I upgraded them. But the frame and componentry are just fine for a heavier rider.

I second this motion. I'm 235lbs and 6'4" riding a '05 Giant OCR Limited carbon fiber bike. I have a little over 2000 miles on the bike, all stock components, and so far it's been excellent. I agree with Bigbossman that the stock wheels are a bit flexy, but so far mine have stayed in true, even with 2000 miles and lots of powerful hill climbs. When the wheels start going, or I break some spokes, I'll look at upgrading the wheelset.

Greets all - This is my first post on this board, so here is a little about me - I'm 23 yrs old, 6'6" and 220lbs. I live in Philly, PA, and I graduated UPenn last year.

My weight is rapidly dropping back to my race weight of about 210lbs (Took some time off from working out this winter). I have never raced on a bike, however. I was a rower in college, and in my last year I developed tendonitis in my back, so I decided to get into road cycling since I can not row until my back issues are worked out. I bought a Raleigh Grand Prix for $300, built sometime around the early 90's I believe, and is in decent condition. The steel frame has no dents or cracks, just a little chipped paint. I've had to replace the rear wheel due to cracking the hub, and the chain and cassette due to regular wear. It's a 61cm frame size and it is a little small for me. I am getting much faster on the bike and have been looking into getting a much better, faster ride. The owner of my local store, Bicycle Therapy, tells me I should look at nothing smaller than 63cm or a fully custom frame. The fully custom job is more than I want to spend. I am very interested in either the Bianchi Giro (Ally/Carbon, $1599, Shimano 105 set) or the Felt F55 (Ally/carbon $2100, Dura-ace), or the Felt F65 (Ally/carbon, $1699, Ultegra). Both these bikes are made in a 63cm size. I think I am limited in my exposure to different brands because this store only carries Bianchi, Felt, Litespeed (don't make a 63 at all), and Ridley, and I haven't looked much farther. I do not have a car, so it is hard for me to get to other stores. I am starting to do some research on the web, which is why I'm here :)

My questions are - would any of these be a good choice for a very tall, heavy rider? Are there other options out there for a 63cm frame that I should look at? Will I crack a carbon crank?

I am a pretty muscular/skinny guy at my racing weight, but I am well over 200 lbs, so I am hoping this thread is the right place to ask these questions. I hope I'm not asking anyone to repeat themselves... there have been a lot of bikes reccomended in this thread, but mostly for weight issues, and my biggest issue is the size.

Thanks for your help.

James

I was mistaken... Litespeed's Ultimate comes in 63, and actually has a 65cm seat tube. This is probably a good size for me but is way more than I can afford, so no matter anyway.

So I'm 6'3'' and at about 225lbs and I'm looking for a lite road bike that can last. Reading through out the forum on the wieght weenie models I know most of those models would not work with people in the clydesdale category so basically I'm looking for a weight weenie version for clydesdale...hahaha Im looking for the lightest setup that can still stop on a dime with my weight. I'm looking to spend around
$3k on one.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I priced you out a sweet custom steel bike that is 3300$ with a 600$ wheelset.
pinch a couple of pennies on components and you are set up with a frame that will last forever
http://www.zinncycles.com/RoadPrice3.aspx

That link didn't show the components
I used a custom steel road frame, with a 105 group (no custom cranks), and a velomax orion wheelset (600).
I just realized that you probably would want to fly in and get fitted, and then the shipping cost, and the delivery cost, and the wait time....

Bluyak, I like your setup there, what kind of rack is that?

Its a Topeak RX Beamrack with the panniers and Topeak RX trunk bag with exspandable side pannier bags. Goto Topeaks website for more info. I also have the smaller bag that doesnt have the panniers. Whats nice about these bags. Is they slide on and off with a quick release. I carry all my tools, spare parts, and rain gear. They are waterproof and insolated. Both will hold a six pack. The larger one exspands. Here's a pic with the panniers open.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e47/bluyak/Trek2100_02.jpg

One thing I do pack in the bag is the Topeak Flash Stand. That is the stand holding the bike up. It weighs 1.4 pounds. Quite handy to do driveline tweeks on the road or just to stand the bike up when off of it.

Thx, bluyak. That's def. gonna go on my list for my next bike.

Good idea on packing the stand too.

Thx, bluyak. That's def. gonna go on my list for my next bike.

Good idea on packing the stand too.

Your welcome. I've spent alot of time researching and setting up the bike. It is very functional for solo endurance riding. When your 50 miles from home and no sag to depend on. You had better be able to fix it to get yourself home. i keep the bike tuned and go over it before every ride. I dont want any suprizes. But if something happens I can fix it.

While contemplating buying a geared road bike for my 24 mile commute, I will pitch in with my data.

I am 6f 1' and 205 pounds.

I admire you all heavier clyde's for the discipline and changing lifelong habits in such radical manner. My respects to you all.

Well, I'm 23 6'2'' and 220. I hit my max weight this winter and had just about enough of my laziness. I started running in January and ran 1.5 miles 3 times a week until mid Feb when it started raining. It rained pretty much straight through till mid April. Being a mild asthmatic, long distance running at any reasonable pace gets difficult around the 2 mile marker. With rising gas prices, I figured I could do two things at once; get in shape and save some money. I've been riding around 60 miles a week since mid April and so far I've lost 10 lbs. I have to get in shape for the police academy. I currently ride a Specialized Hardrock with some Armadillos on it, but I'm in the process of building a custom roadie from the ground up this summer. The ultimate goals are to be down to 200 and ride a century in September.

JamesDL

I am 6'6" 235 and just got back into cycling. I had been riding an older steel frame bike with upgraded wheels (campy hubs and mavic wheels). I looked at several bikes including the Felt, Trek Pilot, Specialized Allez and Specialized Roubaix Comp. I ended up liking the Roubaix the best and bought it for around 2k - for me there really was no comparison. This is a very nice riding bike being that it's full carbon fibre. The biggest improvement I noticed was that hills seemed to have gotten easier (although that could be a function of getting my legs back.) So far I've put about 500 miles on it and it's taken everything I've been able to dish out so far (wheels are still true, frame is nice and tight, no cracks etc...). I purchased the largest size available which was a 61 cm. However, the frame has a sloping top tube, so the effective size I believe is closer to a 63cm. If you have any chance at all of shopping for a specialized, I would definately take on of these on a test ride. For the price you get full carbon fibre, ultegra fd and rd and 105 brakes (which were the best of all I tested.) Also, this model has upgraded bottom bracket with the outbaord bearings which make the crank nice and stiff.

Good luck on your search.

I am 6 foot 4 and weigh about a deuce and a quarter and have been into cycling since I was a kid recently got back into it to raise money and awareness for brain cancer research plus life in a metro without a car rocks

1970's kobe cobra (was my dads and one of the most advanced japanese bikes of the time)
early 60's sears freespirit ted williams (one of the austrian made puch frames) single speed convert
soon a windsor track bike
and a custom made rex (local frame maker)

good luck watch out for that car door and have fun

I've never ridden anything but mtn bikes till today. I just got a Felt F80. I figured when you already tip the scale over 200, there's not much sense spending the extra grand or so to shave a few pounds off the ride. I can easily enough just skip breakfast. lol. Anyways, riding has always been very enjoyable to me and has become my way of commuting nowadays too. I also can't see the point to aid in inflating gas prices when I can just as easily pedal to work.

Are you ready for this? I am 6'2" at 316 lbs! I was 230 before being parralyzed in 91.I've gained 1 lb in the last 3 months but at the same time went from a XXL in waist to a XL, go figure! I ride a Giant FCR4 flatbar road bike. Just can't seem to get onto a drop bar bike! Have been told that mine is a fitness bike, but I think it is a roadie! Seems to have the same gears and stuff that everyone else has. On slight downhill slope in town have seen 28.8MPH so far and 31.5 on an overpass we have. 15.6 mile rides are very little problem.Can barely walk, can't run and biking is my only exercise! It did cut my blood sugar in half tho, am diabetic! If you guys are Clydedales at 210, what am I at 316?? Scarey, huh?

what am I at 316?? Scarey, huh?

Here is what I think you are: An inspiration. Imagine how the health of America would improve if they knew what you know. Keep hammering, scubajim.

Well, training for my first century (this Sunday) finally got me under the 300# mark. 60# down and another 80 to go.

I'm 6'1" and of German farmer stock so 210-220 is about as light as I'll ever be.

I ride an alumnium GT Edge Aero I built when I moved to NYC. 36 spoke triple cross non butted mavic wheels with Ultegra hubs -- that is how I ride through NY's cobblestones and potholes without rebuilding the wheels every week.

I average about 150-200 miles per week.

Any of you guys do triathlons?

BTW guys I fearlessly got the Dura Ace pedals. wouldn't have been sure without some heavyweight experience, so thanks. Of course the 130 lb guy at the bike shop thinks I should get em. so far so good. out of the saddle climbing I noticed it was very stable compared to the Mt spd's I was using. overall more solid bike/rider interface.

Well, training for my first century (this Sunday) finally got me under the 300# mark. 60# down and another 80 to go.

I'm 6'1" and of German farmer stock so 210-220 is about as light as I'll ever be.

I ride an alumnium GT Edge Aero I built when I moved to NYC. 36 spoke triple cross non butted mavic wheels with Ultegra hubs -- that is how I ride through NY's cobblestones and potholes without rebuilding the wheels every week.

I average about 150-200 miles per week.

Make that 74# to go. Down 6 more at last night's weigh in.

I think I have most of you beat 303lb 6'. I exersize daily but am interested in road biking. I have done some mtn biking in the past. What is a good bike(s) for someone my size? Thanks for replying

well here is my suggestiong for a big guy road bike can't go wrong with chromo steel they are not as hard on you as aluminum

aluminum is stiffer but it transmits road vibration and can be a real pain
a good steel bike can be just as stiff as aluminum but more comfortable because steel doesn't conduct the vibration as easily

heck my old kobe is an old lugged steel japanese frame and I weigh about 225 an when i climb the whole rear end looks like a fish but it won't break or wear out anytime soon guess my weight plus being able to leg press the heavy end of a vw bug is a bit mush but it works for me

I am interested in trying and aluminum out for races but if your just riding at this weight class you won't notice and extra few pounds from a steel frameset

hope this helps

I think I have most of you beat 303lb 6'. I exersize daily but am interested in road biking. I have done some mtn biking in the past. What is a good bike(s) for someone my size? Thanks for replying

I'm no expert -- I'll get that out there first -- here are my thoughts:


is money an issue?
what is your goal?


If you are just looking to get exercise, then your mountain bike will do it, too. Swap out your knobby tires for slicks, maybe go with a bigger set of chainrings/smaller cassette and enjoy the ride.

If you are looking to spin... to really get some good cardio and cover some miles, then I would suggest (within the constraints of #1) spend extra money on some good wheels. When I built up my bike, the number one thing I did was splurge on the wheels. (Splurge being pretty relative in the bike world.) I was 375#, 6'1" when I started and NYC is not known for good road repair. I needed rock solid wheels.

Keep in mind: when you buy a new bike, you can usually upgrade parts for the difference in price between the part spec'ed to your bike and the price of your upgrades. So, that is the best time to do it.

Also, ride a little on a road bike before you buy. See if you can rent from your local bike shop(s) for a day. And if you can, get different makes/models/sizes. The geometry is different for all of them. You'll get used to the different (mountain -> road) position before you lay out cash. When I went to road from having been on the dirt for years, it took some getting used to. If I had just bought a road bike then, I would probably have gotten the wrong thing.

And buy the bike which is a little more aggressive than you like at the bike shop. After a few weeks you won't notice the difference and you'll ride better for it.

One more thing, get a good seat and shorts. Three hundred and three pounds of pressure is a lot wear and tear on the taint.

I got back into Bicycling both for the exercise and to save on the gas. I'm 221lbs It's also a good
ALT form of Transportaion as I'm singal and only drive one vehicle.

Just a quick question for the group. Are there any other Bicycling chat rooms any where on the
net at all? Thanks in Advance.
John_1961
email:wc6627@milwpc.com

I agree with RETEM,my favorite ride is all 4130 and gives a great ride-put some nice cork tape on and you have real comfort and a hard to explain sense of liveliness that I dont get from my aluminum/carbon mix bikes.It has 36 hole sun rims and at deuce&1/4 I feel confident that I wont break anything.

Heya folks! I'm a long time lurker, and a new poster. Yes, I am a clydesdale. 6'1", 302# (as of yesterday . . . I'm actually down 15# from a month ago, go me). I've started biking to work
(5.5 miles each way, no sweat), and plan on going full car free within the month.

Having not done much road biking in my life (read: never), I'm quite (and possibly a bit foolishly) excited about it all, but I do have some questions. Namely the handlebars. I've never done the whole dropped bars thing (I hope that's what it's called), and I'm not quite confortable yet. I've found that after a few minutes, the area inbetween my thumbs and my hand get massively sore. I am wearing gloves when I ride, and my handlebars are slightly padded (I'm on the '06 Trek 1000, all stock parts). Can anyone direct me to either a post/site/pics of how I should be properly holding the bars? Right now I've got my hands more or less resting above the brakes for easy access to the shifters and the brakes, with the main brake assembly between my thumbs and hands (which seems to be the culprit for the hand pain).

This thread is the best (although at this point, it could be it's own seperate forum . . .)

Heya folks! I'm a long time lurker, and a new poster. Yes, I am a clydesdale. 6'1", 302# (as of yesterday . . . I'm actually down 15# from a month ago, go me). I've started biking to work
(5.5 miles each way, no sweat), and plan on going full car free within the month.

Having not done much road biking in my life (read: never), I'm quite (and possibly a bit foolishly) excited about it all, but I do have some questions. Namely the handlebars. I've never done the whole dropped bars thing (I hope that's what it's called), and I'm not quite confortable yet. I've found that after a few minutes, the area inbetween my thumbs and my hand get massively sore. I am wearing gloves when I ride, and my handlebars are slightly padded (I'm on the '06 Trek 1000, all stock parts). Can anyone direct me to either a post/site/pics of how I should be properly holding the bars? Right now I've got my hands more or less resting above the brakes for easy access to the shifters and the brakes, with the main brake assembly between my thumbs and hands (which seems to be the culprit for the hand pain).

This thread is the best (although at this point, it could be it's own seperate forum . . .)
Sounds like you are putting a bit too much pressure on your hands. This is one of the issues I had when I first restarted riding. What is your handlebar height vs saddle height? Are they about level, or is the HB lower than the saddle? If lower, you might consider a raise of the handlebars to level with your saddle. This may require a change of stem, but it'll be worth it. You may also try some core exercises (Crunches, crosscrunches, etc) to strangthen the back and abdominals. This will allow you to use the lower body to support some of your body weight, thereby easing the stress on the hands. This will also have the additional benefit of making you stronger and healthier and flatten out the stomach as well. Good for you for resuming a healthier lifestyle and I applaud your efforts. By the way, I am speaking as someone who has lost more weight than you currently weigh (and I'm not kidding).
As your condition gets better, you will find some distinct advantages in drop bars. You can get more aerodynamic against a headwind. You get better power transfer and utilize the abdominal muscles to assist the pedaling more, thereby getting more power in the stroke.:D

To the good advice above I would add dont keep your hands in a single position but have 2-3 positions that you alternate.

Thanks for the tips. I'll check on the height during my lunchbreak. I don't have a multitool with me, but I can get it set up if needbe when I get home this afternoon.

And to Mikeyp.1, thanks for the tip. I'll try to remember to alternate positions.

To the other observations I would add that there is a bunch of stuff a really good fitting (of you and your bike) can help fix. (Stem length, bar height, seat height, seat fore and aft, even length of cranks, etc.) There is plenty out there to read on this stuff. If you bought at a good local bike shop they may/should be able to help. (I would try and go when it is slow.)

Also, not all gloves are created equal. I just got a pair of Bell gel gloves and they are luxurious. Much less tingle in my hands after a long ride. Also, if you can't get any relief they also make padded inserts you can put under your bar tape. (Some riders double wrap for extra cushion, too.) But give it some more time before you go making any real changes.

Oh and make small changes in your set up and make them one at a time. Trust me.

Searched this thread and was surprised to see no mention of the Co-Motion Mazama - a bike specifically designed for Clydesdales!
http://www.co-motion.com/mazama.html
(disclaimer - I have no connection with them)
Not cheap, almost $3000 for a full build, $1400 for the frame, but it looks like it should last a lifetime.
http://www.co-motion.com/graphics/mazama06.gif

-Paul
5'10, 220 lbs, usually on my Gunnar Street dog fixie or a Rivendell Rambouillet.

I agree about the hand positions but I also disagree with lowering you seat if anything raise the stem if possible you always want to be able to fully extend your leg otherwise your knees will pay the price big time


usually I ride on the top flat of the bar when climbing or cruising
I ride the lower flat and verticle of the bar when I am trying to turn tight or draft and I would try getting some goot cork tape like bontrager or cinelli

and welcome to road biking the most efficient man machine interface known

Let me just ad really quick that If you have a hard time getting used to drop bars you can always go for some flat bars or bullhorns

I agree about the hand positions but I also disagree with lowering you seat if anything raise the stem if possible you always want to be able to fully extend your leg otherwise your knees will pay the price big time


usually I ride on the top flat of the bar when climbing or cruising
I ride the lower flat and verticle of the bar when I am trying to turn tight or draft and I would try getting some goot cork tape like bontrager or cinelli

and welcome to road biking the most efficient man machine interface known

Let me just ad really quick that If you have a hard time getting used to drop bars you can always go for some flat bars or bullhorns
Who said anything about lowering the saddle? What was suggested was adjustmentrs to the stem height to adjust HB and saddle to a level position.

sorry to be miss understood .. it has been my experience that people lower their saddle to fix the problem of getting the bars and saddle level or comfortable

sorry to sound like I am repeating myself but althought the trek is a really nice bike it is an al and caron combo / aluminum frame carbon forks

these bikes tend to be really stiff it is a good thing but a little harsh on the rider at first until you get used to riding a road bike

btw nice bike man and welcome to road cycling it is alot faster than a sluggish mtb

most of the guys I know that are recent converts I tell to go with steel first then carbon or al
and alot of cycle trainers will tell you to ride steel if you are older than say 45 because it is easier on your body but it is also all about preference at my size and weight a couple of ounces or pounds aren't really going to kill me

Hosses', any preference between a cyclocross or a road bike...are cyclocrosses a little beefier for us clydes. I am looking at several brands...felt/trek/kona...both cyclo and road. Also should I be concerned about the strength of carbon?????

down from 318 to 303!

I like road and steel 4130 cromo double or triple butted or if your into old school get a lugged steel frame they are really comfy and don't beat you up like a carbon or al will just depends on if you are concerned about weight and some steel bikes are lighter than al because they can use thinner walled tubing because steel is stronger than al and deals with stress better

I currently ride a
late 70's kobe cobra with sun tour equipment
a early 60 freespirit ted williams by puch townie / ss convert
and a mercier fixie
am actually looking at getting a newer steel road bike with campy

sorry to be miss understood .. it has been my experience that people lower their saddle to fix the problem of getting the bars and saddle level or comfortable

sorry to sound like I am repeating myself but althought the trek is a really nice bike it is an al and caron combo / aluminum frame carbon forks

these bikes tend to be really stiff it is a good thing but a little harsh on the rider at first until you get used to riding a road bike

btw nice bike man and welcome to road cycling it is alot faster than a sluggish mtb

most of the guys I know that are recent converts I tell to go with steel first then carbon or al
and alot of cycle trainers will tell you to ride steel if you are older than say 45 because it is easier on your body but it is also all about preference at my size and weight a couple of ounces or pounds aren't really going to kill me
Not a prblm! Personally, I love my 531 alloy frame! I'm very much old school with a late 80's Raleigh w/ Friction shifters. My riding position is HB lower than the saddle, but that's personal choice. I can tuck down into the drops and get fast as hell on a DH and have plenty of pulling power going up. Granted, after 85 or so miles, I need to stretch out some, but what can I say?

Thanks again for the input folks. As it turns out, the seat and bars are in an ideal spot for me. I did however try shifting my hands a bit, and lemme tell ya, no problems at all! I'm also consciously stopped placing all of my wieght on my hands (I didn't even realize I was 'till looking at the responses), and it's like a whole new ride. I'm thinking that now once I can get my endurance up, I'll be able to survive my LBS's weekly 40 mile ride (my current goal).

Speaking of goals, what would you think are some realistic ones for someone new to road biking? I've mentioned the 40 mile ride bit, and to be honest, I'm all gaga about biking right now, and I can't seem to figure out what's within reach, or just a pipe-dream. Any recommendations on where I should set my sights?