Bicycle Mechanics - crank removal

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View Full Version : crank removal


Ritalin
09-23-02, 10:29 AM
There's a space between my crankarms and frame that allows dirt and grime down inside. Would it be a good idea to periodically remove the cranks to clean this out? Or could I do more damage by constantly removing/installing the cranks?

Oh... and whats a really good book for bike mechanics?


mike
09-23-02, 11:05 AM
You can clean the grime from between your crank arm and your frame with a folded cloth. Don't spray any solvents, cleaners, or water into the area as that can get into the bottom bracket housing and break down the grease.

A very little dirt and grime will make it into your bottom bracket, but this is not enough concern to warrant frequent cleaning and re-lubricating of your bottom bracket.

I would say clean your bottom bracket out every two years or every 4,000 miles whichever comes first. If you are a low-mileage rider, you can probably even go longer without cleaning/lubricating.

pokey
09-23-02, 01:57 PM
Hey mike.........cartridge BB are sealed,don't let grime in and are disposable when they go bad.


mike
09-23-02, 07:48 PM
Originally posted by pokey
Hey mike.........cartridge BB are sealed,don't let grime in and are disposable when they go bad.

Indeed you are correct, pokey. Of course, I don't know if Ritalin has a sealed cartrige or not.

With the exception of the old single piece (ashtabula) crank set-up, the old standard cottared style and cotterless cranks were not that prone to dust'grime contamination either.

So, with the exception of the older bikes or newer cheapo bikes with single piece cranks, I don't think that Ritalin has a lot to worry about.

bikerider
09-23-02, 08:10 PM
Originally posted by pokey
Hey mike.........cartridge BB are sealed,don't let grime in and are disposable when they go bad.

Well, sealed is a relative term. Shimano BB's just have a rubber boot which keeps the worst of water and grime out but are not proper lubricated seals. Otherwise, the BB's would last for decades.

pokey
09-23-02, 08:44 PM
Sure.....Old cup and cone BB had no seals and got full of crap real easy. later cup and cone BB had nominal urbber seals on the cups that were nominlally effective to innefective. New cartridge types are pretty effective, and people get 25,000 out of square taper ultegras. thats more than decades for many riders.

faith
09-24-02, 06:23 AM
Ritalin

“Oh... and whats a really good book for bike mechanics?”

The term “good” could vary widely depending upon your level of comfort with general mechanical skills and appreciation of mechanical engineering. Be what it may, I would suggest starting with several outstanding Web Sites on the subject:

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml
Excellent guidance on Bike Repair and Maintenance:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/repair/
Much wisdom, from a gifted communicator. The Site’s author; Sheldon Brown in the 1980s, wrote a regular monthly column in “Bicycling” magazine, on maintenance and repair

I trust that this is a "good" starting point of merit.

pokey
09-24-02, 06:46 AM
Try the Richard Zinn books,art of road bike or MTB maintenance,whichever applies.

Greg
09-24-02, 07:17 AM
Originally posted by pokey
cartridge BB are sealed,don't let grime in

What a load!

Sorry, I had to do that.

:D

a2psyklnut
09-24-02, 08:31 AM
Regarding the frequent removal of cranks.

If you have a square tapered aluminum crank, you could very easily overtighten the crank onto the spindle and stress the aluminum to the point where it widens the tapers. If you do this on a regular basis, your cranks will start to "drive you crazy" creaking.

So, if you've got square tapers, don't remove them frequently.

If you've got a splined bottom brackett, this isn't an issue as the cranks are designed to bottom out on the splines.

BTW, according to Shimano, grease the spline, but do not grease a square taper.

L8R

roadbuzz
09-24-02, 09:46 AM
Originally posted by Greg
Sorry, I had to do that.

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: