Bicycle Mechanics - best lubes

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aerobat
04-13-01, 04:45 PM
What are everyones favorite chain lubes? I've been using White Lightning but wonder if it's the best.
Anyone have experience with Pro lube, Raceday, Pedro's etc.?
Yes I use Pedro's Ice Wax, I have no complaints. It lasts long enough holds off the dirt here in Tx. This is important considering it is like wet cement after a rain. I used Finish Line teflon and Cross Country for years, but I like the Ice Wax much better. I tried White Lightning but after about 100 miles my chain started squeaking, I abandoned it. I have never used Pro Lube. So having said all that IMHO the Pedro's is the way to go at least from a MTB aspect. I assume it would be excellent for a road app.
I have to say White Lightening - the standard stuff, not race day. I've been using it for years and swear by it. I've tried Pedro's Ice Wax a couple of times and it was just too thick, didn't seem to get in all of the nooks and crannies well. Seemed like I had to use a lot more to get it to penetrate which meant it cost me more.
As you can see though, Hunter has had good luck with Pedros, so as the saying goes "Your mileage may vary".
I would suggest buying a small bottle of one of them and trying it until the bottle runs out. If you don't like it, buy a small bottle of something else and give that a shot. Sometimes you can get free samples at races, festivals, etc.
aerobat
04-14-01, 01:11 AM
Thanks guys, I've just finished a bottle of White Lightning race day and it was full of clumps as if the lube had gelled in the bottle. I had a hard time even getting it, I finally had to take the whole top off and just pour it on. I've never had that experience with the regular WL, it's been working pretty well for me.
When I first get a bottle of white lightening, I pry off the top and drop a small hex nut in it. Helps mix it up a lot better. For a short time they were including a bearing or something for mixing, but for some reason stopped.
Also, don't keep the lube in a car or somewhere cold. Makes it much harder to mix. Room temp or warmer is best.
pat5319
04-15-01, 03:14 AM
try using a hair dryer on the chain while rotating pedals to make it (white lightining) penetrate better, a must when it's cold.
I've been using "Pro-Link" lately and like it much better than White Lightning; no buildup, easier to apply, seems to last a lttle longer
orguasch
04-16-01, 07:14 PM
I use campagnolo Oil, But, after about 20 or 40 K your chain is really dirty, the chain need to be clean after every ride.., but it is a good chain oil
I have lately been using Motorex oils (they are bike specific, despite their name) from Switzerland. I have found them to be quite good, but I can't really compare them to the products mentioned above due to lack of availability in my country. They have a whole line of oils, greases and degreasers all bio-degradable - anybody used any of these ??
claude
Bushman
08-03-07, 02:40 AM
ATF (auto tranny fluid). Self cleaning, CHEAP, and does the job extremely well. For winter riding i boil it down until it gets much thicker.
For bearing grease I prefer the cheap Wal Mart grease that they sell under the name of Mystik JT6 no. 2 multi purpose. It doesn't smell, it's clear so you can count bearing balls, it costs 1.97 for 14 ounces so it costs less than Phil Woods at 6 bucks for 5 ounces. It's marine grade too so it won't wash away.
For the chain I use Pro Link gold. It seems to be easy to apply and not attract much grit. It also last quite a few days.
Garth
rebuilt13
08-03-07, 10:08 AM
I have lately been using Motorex oils (they are bike specific, despite their name) from Switzerland. I have found them to be quite good, but I can't really compare them to the products mentioned above due to lack of availability in my country. They have a whole line of oils, greases and degreasers all bio-degradable - anybody used any of these ??
claude
motorex synthetic is the only grease i use on my bearings. by way of chain lube, i use to use rock'n'roll gold until i was introduced to purple extreme. purple extreme is a dry synthetic that claims to last 400 miles. its best if you completely clean your drivetrain first. i was very surprised by how well it works both on the road and in the mud.
ginsoakedboy
08-03-07, 10:11 AM
For dry lubes, the best I've used thus far is the Rock n' Roll -- the original pink stuff rather than some of the newer formulations. It cleans the chain nicely and is a fantastic dry lube - all in one step. Don't use as directed, which calls for you to squirt a stream onto the chain where it passes over the cassette. If used in this manner, the cleaner component of it will penetrate the hub and break down the grease. Instead, just drip it onto the chain and wipe excess.
I don't like Pedro's Ice Wax -- too thick -- doesn't penetrate into the pins. I find the thinner lubes work better because they flow better to where you need the lube to be. I have used Pedro's Extra Dry as a chain lube, and I like it, but it needs frequent application.
Lots of people endorse Boeshield T-9, and I've heard great things. I'm tempted to give it a try when my bottle of R n' R runs out.
masiman
08-03-07, 10:56 AM
ATF (auto tranny fluid). Self cleaning, CHEAP, and does the job extremely well. For winter riding i boil it down until it gets much thicker.
Was this the oldest favorite lube thread you could find Bushman? I'm thinking a little OCD ;).
San Rensho
08-03-07, 11:57 AM
Oil, any oil, use it sparingly and often.
Bushman
08-03-07, 12:05 PM
Was this the oldest favorite lube thread you could find Bushman? I'm thinking a little OCD ;).
i honestly dont pay attention to the start dates. Perhaps every thread should be closed after a day or two if this a concern. :beer:
skanking biker
08-03-07, 12:17 PM
ATF (auto tranny fluid). Self cleaning, CHEAP, and does the job extremely well. For winter riding i boil it down until it gets much thicker.
seriously that works?
I like the T-9 stuff. I tried pedros syn lube and all it did was act as a dirt magnet
ATF (auto tranny fluid). Self cleaning, CHEAP, and does the job extremely well. For winter riding i boil it down until it gets much thicker.
This thread is SIX YEARS OLD
START CHECKING THE DAMN DATES ON THE THREADS BEFORE YOU POST.
i honestly dont pay attention to the start dates. Perhaps every thread should be closed after a day or two if this a concern. :beer:
You need to ********** start. Here's a clue, if it's more than a few pages back in the archive IT'S OLD AND DEAD Check the last post date, if it's more than say six months old LEAVE IT ALONE
http://img464.imageshack.us/img464/8420/deadthread4ab.jpg
Bushman
08-03-07, 12:26 PM
Perhaps every thread should be closed after a day or two if this a concern
masiman
08-03-07, 12:28 PM
i honestly dont pay attention to the start dates. Perhaps every thread should be closed after a day or two if this a concern. :beer:
I think they are pretty good here about closing threads. Another 6 year old thread you replied to was closed. The topic in this one is covered a few times a month it seems, so responding to one that has had no action in 6 years seems a waste of time. A date ordered search on lube, oil, lubrication, grease, favorite, best or preferred in some combination will give you many many recent and probably more relevant threads. As you can see, it can be annoying to varying degrees to participants when old threads on beaten down topics are unearthed.
neil0502
08-03-07, 12:30 PM
Forums get ruined this way. Valuable contributors get tired of people treading up the same old stuff and stop contributing.
It's especially true if what's being dragged up is grease, degreaser, or chain lube threads -- the most over-analyzed subjects on bike tech forums.
So ... what you see as harmless, others see as potentially doing long-term harm.
My $0.02. YMMV.
Perhaps every thread should be closed after a day or two if this a concern
Perhaps you should just stop digging up really old threads as it's only newbies like you that pull this crap. Start checking the last post date before you start adding to long dead conversations. Especially ones that have far newer versions and/or get covered repeatedly
Forums get ruined this way. Valuable contributors get tired of people treading up the same old stuff and stop contributing.
It's especially true if what's being dragged up is grease, degreaser, or chain lube threads -- the most over-analyzed subjects on bike tech forums.
So ... what you see as harmless, others see as potentially doing long-term harm.
My $0.02. YMMV.Ding ding ding
Bushman
08-03-07, 12:40 PM
masiman, neil0502, thank you for the info, and for being polite about it. I'm used to the metalwork forum i also use, where topics are always brought back up for discussion, or to add specs or updates etc. I was'nt aware that it was a big deal.
again, thank you for being polite, unlike some.
masiman, neil0502, thank you for the info, and for being polite about it. I'm used to the metalwork forum i also use, where topics are always brought back up for discussion, or to add specs or updates etc. I was'nt aware that it was a big deal.
again, thank you for being polite, unlike some.
You want polite? Try Miss Manners. I gave up being polite about this years ago because it never got anywhere and it was always some newbie doing it. I also saw the other thread and the attitude you gave in there when people told you how old the thread was and felt that a heavier hand was needed.
skanking biker
08-03-07, 01:58 PM
Jeez--take it easy Francis. Cut the guy some frackin slack. No one is making you read or respond to this thread. If its existence upsets you that much, leave it alone. Instead of berating newbs about invented forum protocol, and if it is such a big deal for you, perhaps you could draft a newbie user manual that can be provided when a member signs up and give it to the mods.
Also, there are only so many things that can be discussed here before there is a repeat. Thats the nature of forums, newbs become senior members and pass info to newer newbs---senior members leave because they get tired of the same old threads all the time.
Further, I suppose if he had just posted a new thread on the topic, he'd get flamed and directed to "use the search function." Here, teh guy DOES use the search function and replies to an existing thread rather than wasting space with a new one and you still give him a load of crap.
Finally, what the hell difference does it make when the thread was started? Unless there has been some revolutionary discovery about chain lube, I suspect the info is still relevant and that the poster can gain knowledge as to the opinions of existing members
norco_rider77
08-03-07, 02:50 PM
id say look at the pedro's stuff and pick what u need, i use Ice Wax
OT:
Don't worry about reviving old threads, just as long they aren't controversial/flame bait ones. Some suggest newbies do a search and use existing threads, while some say start a new thread...somebody will always complain and nobody can really agree what is appropiate or enforcable.
At many other forums, there is an unwritten rule/etiquette that if a topic is a repeat, the forum management prefers that posters refrain from participating in the thread if the posters feel the question has been asked and answered too many times in the past...it's a good compromise rather than flaming a newbie while not even answering the question first. Other members can provide their opinion on the topic and in most cases, it will either be a repeat of past answers or personal experiences with a new or popular products. In any case, it keeps the forum focused on helping each other, helpful tips and money/time savers, sharing personal and practical solutions, etc etc. Topics/threads older than 6 months to a year are usually put into an archive section for a "read only" to topics brought up in the past, but that's up to each forum owner and they may prefer to lock threads instead or just keep them open for any future replies/comments.
cadillacmike68
08-03-07, 05:17 PM
Just keeping it alive man...
ATF - that's a new one for me - but with 4 cars (all Cadillacs BTW) I always have this on hand, so I might try it on my wife's bike... (don't want to mess up the Oro chain & freewheel)...
I also have Boeshield T-9 - to spray around the boat's engine and so might try that as well.
For the longest time, I used a 50-50 mix of paraffin wax and 80-120 weight gear oil. I'd melt it in an old pot until it was near boiling (burned the ***** more than once by the way) dipped the chain in, wiped it with a rag on the way out and had a nice clean, silent chain that didn't attract dirt. When I moved to NY in 93 - i think i tossed the pot (or maybe when i moved to FL in 95) - i had burned it so many times that it really stunk up the whole house. One definately had to wear a glove on the wiping hand (right hand by the way, the left hand was holding the pliers that held the chain) or you'd get a helluva burn.
I tried the Dumond Techlube - aside from being fleeced by the LBS on price, i find it attracts too much dirt.
A also tried White Lightning - regular type - because the bottle said it was wax based. That's slightly better but my chainrings still seem too wet / dirty.
I might go back to the paraffin wax and say 50 weight oil mix (cleaner and lighter than the gear oil) and will try to NOT burn it this time. Have to get a cheap sauce pan though my - wife will kill me if I take one of our good pans. :D Actuallyt, they're my pans but still it will kill a pan.
For cleaning nothing beats unleaded regular. But i use a juicy juice bottle instead of a coke bottle. :)
Forums get ruined this way. Valuable contributors get tired of people treading up the same old stuff and stop contributing.
It's especially true if what's being dragged up is grease, degreaser, or chain lube threads -- the most over-analyzed subjects on bike tech forums.
So ... what you see as harmless, others see as potentially doing long-term harm.
My $0.02. YMMV.
Better to continue discussions than reinvent the wheel and create new threads requiring repeat posts of consolidated preserved information and clutter the system up with parrallel threads.
Most times, just because a thread is old doesn't make the content obsolete.
Most forums have longer threads covering chain lube favorites that degenerate into heated flame wars-so this is a topic that brings out the trolls.
Pro Link is the first word in lubricant, but Finish Line Teflon Dry comes in second.
But in reality the most important thing is to keep the chain clean, after that is done just about any good quality lube will work.
neil0502
08-04-07, 08:48 AM
Better to continue discussions than reinvent the wheel and create new threads requiring repeat posts of consolidated preserved information and clutter the system up with parrallel threads.
Most times, just because a thread is old doesn't make the content obsolete.
Most forums have longer threads covering chain lube favorites that degenerate into heated flame wars-so this is a topic that brings out the trolls.
1) I'll stand by my post above. I've watched it happen too many times.
2) I've suggested, on numerous occasions, that BF create sticky posts for degreasers, grease, and chain cleaning and lubrication, generally.
In my experience, the amount of valuable information added to these threads -- new or old -- greatly diminishes with time as historically knowledgeable posters simply tire of seeing the subject raised yet again.
Because they ARE such staples to the subject of bike mechanics, there DOES seem to be value in letting people -- particularly those new to the site -- find the accumulated wisdom of the forum's members in a single place, WITHOUT having to perform a forum search.
I also think their presence as sticky threads will INCREASE the amount of participation, rather than generate the expected "oh, God. Not another chain lube thread....." that's always seen on bike tech sites where new lube/grease/chain cleaning threads come up more often than flats in goathead country.
If it's always there, I'd guess that participation will increase and fatigue will decrease.
BikeManDan
08-04-07, 10:33 AM
No Tri-Flow love?
Tri-Flow, in my opinion, is the best all around light lubricant available. Great for not only bikes but around the house creaks, stuck bolts, etc. Drip it in cable housings and they're like new, sometimes better than new. Every pivot on the bike gets a drop or two also.
neil0502
08-04-07, 10:52 AM
Tri-Flow smells ... AND TASTES ... better'n the rest, too :D
cadillacmike68
08-04-07, 08:29 PM
1) I'll stand by my post above. I've watched it happen too many times.
2) I've suggested, on numerous occasions, that BF create sticky posts for degreasers, grease, and chain cleaning and lubrication, generally.
In my experience, the amount of valuable information added to these threads -- new or old -- greatly diminishes with time as historically knowledgeable posters simply tire of seeing the subject raised yet again.
Because they ARE such staples to the subject of bike mechanics, there DOES seem to be value in letting people -- particularly those new to the site -- find the accumulated wisdom of the forum's members in a single place, WITHOUT having to perform a forum search.
I also think their presence as sticky threads will INCREASE the amount of participation, rather than generate the expected "oh, God. Not another chain lube thread....." that's always seen on bike tech sites where new lube/grease/chain cleaning threads come up more often than flats in goathead country.
If it's always there, I'd guess that participation will increase and fatigue will decrease.
Well, I never heard of using ATF before and the thread didn't mention my paraffin wax / gear oil combo that I first read about back in the late 70s...
In bicycling magazine, if I remember...
ginsoakedboy
08-04-07, 09:02 PM
[QUOTE=neil0502;4999676]2) I've suggested, on numerous occasions, that BF create sticky posts for degreasers, grease, and chain cleaning and lubrication, generally.
Some other stickies ought to be the perpetually recurring questions about strong rims, good tires, best rear blinkie lights, and best recipe for peanut butter blondie brownies. In fact, someone ought to start a thread entitled "Dear BF, please create stickies on the following topics" and let people post their suggestions on the ones they get sick of seeing over and over. Hey!! Good idea!
bkaapcke
08-05-07, 11:18 AM
I like Pro-Link because it lubes well and is a snap to clean up. I clean/lube once a week and only use a towel and a little Brak kleen. Once around with a pipe cleaner gets between the links. Relube and it's set to go. 10 minutes, max, on a 9.5 foot recumbent chain. bk
neil0502
08-05-07, 12:31 PM
Once I switched to something like 50/50 Mobil 1 and mineral spirits, I never saw any reason to use anything else.
Cheap, clean, not a dirt magnet, and seems more than adequate in terms of reducing friction/wear ... IMO.
For some people, buying a quart of each, doing a mixture into a separate bottle (2x/year), and then storing the constituent parts is some sort of PITA. Okay. I guess that could be true.
Not an issue for me, though.
I apply it with a toothbrush, AFTER the ride. The mineral spirits thin the Mobil 1, allowing penetration to the pins and rollers, then they evaporate, leaving lube, the whole lube, and nothing BUT the lube, so help me, Moots.
Different people use different mixtures. I'm really not sure how much difference the various ratios make.
While this keeps my drivetrain awfully clean, periodically, I blast WD-40 (with its straw) through the innards, backing it with a multiply folded rag, let THAT dry out, and THEN do the homebrew method.
My $0.02. YMMV.
Wordbiker
08-05-07, 01:07 PM
Any (actual) lube is better than no lube.
A dirty chain lasts for a shorter time.
Chains are cheaper than drivetrains, change them frequently.
Any statement about the "best" anything will generate many, many differing opinions.
I have to say White Lightening - the standard stuff, not race day. I've been using it for years and swear by it. I've tried Pedro's Ice Wax a couple of times and it was just too thick, didn't seem to get in all of the nooks and crannies well. Seemed like I had to use a lot more to get it to penetrate which meant it cost me more.
As you can see though, Hunter has had good luck with Pedros, so as the saying goes "Your mileage may vary".
I would suggest buying a small bottle of one of them and trying it until the bottle runs out. If you don't like it, buy a small bottle of something else and give that a shot. Sometimes you can get free samples at races, festivals, etc.
I'll 2nd the white lightning.
I tend to agree with Skanking Biker. Can you imagine if a grade school teacher had that attitude." Every year I get the same goddam questions and i'm sick of it. Go to the library and look it up yourself." That crap wouldn't fly very far. To the new kid on the block, this is a new question. Why run the guy off with attitude. I'm sure at one time you were asking the same questions. Would you want someone to talk to your inexperienced kid that way?
neil0502
08-05-07, 02:43 PM
I tend to agree with Skanking Biker. Can you imagine if a grade school teacher had that attitude." Every year I get the same goddam questions and i'm sick of it. Go to the library and look it up yourself." That crap wouldn't fly very far. To the new kid on the block, this is a new question. Why run the guy off with attitude. I'm sure at one time you were asking the same questions. Would you want someone to talk to your inexperienced kid that way?
Not to beat a dead horse, but ... let's make your analogy a bit more accurate:
We all showed up for a three-day bike mechanics workshop--one that's being audio and videotaped. Halfway through the class, a number of people show up that didn't hear the beginning of the lecture.
Rather than look to the tapes, they take the time of the class (on which some here put ZERO value, while I tend to put SOME value) to ask a question that HAD already been asked. They simply missed it.
Have you ever heard a teacher/lecturer say, "Please hold your questions until the lecture is finished. It's quite likely that I WILL answer your question in the following material, without the interruption TO the lecture?"
I have.
Again: the issue is NOT so much (to my perspective) the dredging up of old forum threads, per se. It's more an issue that there are a few subjects--done to death--that should probably have stickies INSTEAD of being done to death.
We HAVE archives that I tend to think of as GOLD (a valuable resource). I think it's PRODUCTIVE, not DESTRUCTIVE, to encourage their use ... FIRST.
There ALWAYS seems to be a diminishing return on those few perpetually-recurring subjects. Those with the most knowledge tend to participate less and less over time. [quick example: Sheldon Brown--to my knowledge--NEVER contributes to a chain lube thread. He has a page on his site about it, and that's IT]
It's a burnout thing. Seasoned forum vets DO tire of talking chain lube (or equivalent), no?
Are there BETTER ways to address this issue, other than to YELL AT somebody engaged in this practice? Sure. In the past, I've often responded to a chain lube/degreaser/grease thread with, "In addition to whatever information this new thread generates, you may want to also search the forums. This topic tends to come up quite frequently."
THAT -- in my opinion -- gives them the GREATEST amount of information. I presume that's what they're seeking.
My $0.02. YMMV.
neil0502
08-05-07, 02:52 PM
And to head off the (very reasonable) argument of: but in class, you HAVE to listen to that repeat question. On the Internet, you can just ignore it ....
It's still about signal-to-noise ratio.
I can ignore all the spam in my e-mail inbox, too, but I'm glad I have fairly competent filtering software to save me the time.
[out]
Wordbiker
08-05-07, 02:57 PM
Teachers are also paid to put up with the same questions, year in and year out, and would get fired for yelling at students. This is a free forum.
The opinions expressed here are just that: Opinions.
ginsoakedboy
08-06-07, 05:55 AM
Is ProLink Gold a dry lube? I was reading the label at my LBS trying to decide if I should try a bottle, and it doesn't really say.
Proximo
08-06-07, 07:04 AM
I've been using "Pro-Link" lately and like it much better than White Lightning; no buildup, easier to apply, seems to last a lttle longer
+1. Great stuff.
Proximo
08-06-07, 07:42 AM
Is ProLink Gold a dry lube? I was reading the label at my LBS trying to decide if I should try a bottle, and it doesn't really say.
In the grinchly spirit of some here, use the SEARCH (google)! :)
http://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html
You want polite? Try Miss Manners. I gave up being polite about this years ago because it never got anywhere and it was always some newbie doing it. I also saw the other thread and the attitude you gave in there when people told you how old the thread was and felt that a heavier hand was needed.
No manners and no class.
You need some counselling.
No manners and no class.
You need some counselling.
It's a SIX YEAR OLD THREAD Sparky. This crap gets covered every week, so there's no need to dredge up a six year old version of something that was covered last week.
You need to buy a clue.
skingry
08-07-07, 04:49 PM
It's a SIX YEAR OLD THREAD Sparky. This crap gets covered every week, so there's no need to dredge up a six year old version of something that was covered last week.
You need to buy a clue.
Well what's the word then?... Best lube?
KY is okay. I prefer Silkience.
It's a SIX YEAR OLD THREAD Sparky. This crap gets covered every week, so there's no need to dredge up a six year old version of something that was covered last week.
You need to buy a clue.
And you should try to calm down. Be nice. Anger will certainly shorten your life unless you do. It will also make you unpleasant to be around, or to read on a forum.
This time, I won't bill you for my advice. It's yours for free.
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