New blinkie comparison video: Cateye LD1000 v. Cateye LD500 v. Niterider blinkie

[mechBgon]

~~~ Update: I've added a second video clip and a picture, see post #22 below. There is also a third video clip in post #29 that shows how different visibility items appear from about 25 meters in front of low-beam auto headlights. If you have trouble playing the video clips, try right-clicking the links and Save Target As, and download the whole clip to your computer before playing it. ~~~


Since I can't edit the title of my previous thread, I'll push my luck and post a similar one.

http://www.omnicast.net/~tmcfadden/TL4.wmv (2.1MB video clip in Windows Media Player format)

This time I set a 2AA Maglite flashlight on top of the HandyCam. I draped the arm of my neon-yellow jacket across the rear fender so you can see the relative visibility of neon-yellow clothing, compared to the reflective tape and the LD500's built-in reflector lens, and of course the blinkies themselves.

The LD500 is on the bottom, the LD1000 is in the middle, and the Niterider is on the top. Judging by how intensely the different blinkies light up the wall behind the HandyCam, I think that from directly behind the bike, with a fresh pair of AA batteries, the LD1000 is the new champion for intensity, noticably more intense than the Niterider.

Something else I notice is that even with these powerful blinkies, the reflective tape is still noticable too, even with a mere 2AA Maglite illuminating it. The jacket is not as completely invisible to the human eye as the HandyCam is making it seem, but it's definitely not standing out.

[michaelnel]

Thanks for doing that. That was my impression too when I compared my 16 LED NR taillight with my TL-LD1000. They're both really bright, but the Cateye seems to have the edge.

Slvoid says the off-axis performance of the NR is much better though. I didn't test that.

[catatonic]

Yep, I am a fan of the 1000 as well. It's a bit odd, but it sure does work well.

[Savas]

Having both the NR tail and LD-1000 is a powerful combo, though. You can put the NR as always on, and the LD-1000 as top and bottom blinkie. The LD-1000 is quite a sight when it's lighting up with that wild bink pattern. It almost appears like the light on top a police car.

[mechBgon]

Having both the NR tail and LD-1000 is a powerful combo, though. You can put the NR as always on, and the LD-1000 as top and bottom blinkie. The LD-1000 is quite a sight when it's lighting up with that wild bink pattern. It almost appears like the light on top a police car.Great minds think alike :) That is what I've ended up doing, the NR running steady and the LD1000 doing the flashing. Also, as people get closer, hopefully the two light sources change from one undulating red blob into two separate blobs, helping them judge the distance between them and the bike.

[pricklycommute]

I am having trouble with my Cateye LD1000 turning off by itself. Sometimes it's not really off, but is extremely dim unless I hit it a couple of times. Sounds like a poor battery connection? I am thinking about stretching the two springs a bit to keep the batteries a little more snug.

Anyone else have problems with the Cateye shutting off or getting very dim?

[noisebeam]

I am having trouble with my Cateye LD1000 turning off by itself. Sometimes it's not really off, but is extremely dim unless I hit it a couple of times. Sounds like a poor battery connection? I am thinking about stretching the two springs a bit to keep the batteries a little more snug.

Anyone else have problems with the Cateye shutting off or getting very dim?
Sometimes when I first turn it on it does this - is real dim, but not off. A few bumps or push on the end cap fixes it permanently - that is it never goes back to dim during a ride. I too figured it was a bad connection somewhere, but wasn't too worried about it - I assume I'll be able to fix it if it ever gets worse. I do as habit check my rear light every few minutes when riding and have two others so if one goes bad I am not in real trouble.

Al

[2manybikes]

I am having trouble with my Cateye LD1000 turning off by itself. Sometimes it's not really off, but is extremely dim unless I hit it a couple of times. Sounds like a poor battery connection? I am thinking about stretching the two springs a bit to keep the batteries a little more snug.

Anyone else have problems with the Cateye shutting off or getting very dim?

Try wiping the contact points on the batteries and the contact point on the springs with a very clean paper towel with a little WD-40 on it. You may have to use a q tip to reach the springs down in the light. You may just need to clean the contacts. That usually works.

Don't put any finger prints on any of the contact points either. If you get back from a wet ride open the case and let the light dry out overnight.

[genec]

You have a good point about the reflective tape... makes me want to use it everywhere... and to buy clothing with wide reflective areas rather then "piping."

[slvoid]

Can you pan the camera around like -45 degrees to 45 degrees?
Also, can we get a shot where you like, leave each one on like 10 ft apart 2-300 ft away in the woods?

The lens effect of the cateye might make it brighter up close but I don't know how it'll perform far away. Kinda like how a blinker and HID are both blindingly bright when you're 20 ft away directly in front of it but when you're 200ft away, the difference is a lot more noticeable.

Also, can you wear a tank top in your next video?

[2manybikes]

Also, can you wear a tank top in your next video?

I'm getting confused here ! :)

[michaelnel]

The eraser on the end of a pencil is great for burnishing battery contact points, and it will fit down into the far end of the Cateye, too.

[mechBgon]

Can you pan the camera around like -45 degrees to 45 degrees?
Also, can we get a shot where you like, leave each one on like 10 ft apart 2-300 ft away in the woods?

The lens effect of the cateye might make it brighter up close but I don't know how it'll perform far away. Kinda like how a blinker and HID are both blindingly bright when you're 20 ft away directly in front of it but when you're 200ft away, the difference is a lot more noticeable.

Also, can you wear a tank top in your next video?I charge extra for wearing the tank top, ok? :p We'll work that out privately ;)

How does this sound: I could take my gasoline-powered reflector-testing device* to a very wide suburban street that I know of, park it about 1m from the curb with the low beams on, put the HandyCam in the driver's seat on the tripod, and let it tape. Then I could ride past on the right side of the vehicle while the camera's running, and on up the road. That would give a pretty true-to-life test of what it looks like to an overtaking vehicle, especially if I reverse the footage so it plays backwards before I output the final movie.

I should be able to figure out some kind of off-axis arrangement too, and I can also do clips with the headlights off. Maybe I'll go out and do a trial run with my Canon A60 digicam tonight, after traffic has died down. It only captures at 15 frames per second, which can catch the blinkies inbetween blinks and give inaccurate impressions, but at least I'll know where to run my tests from.




*1996 Dodge Caravan

[michaelnel]

You do great work, Mech!

[2manybikes]

I charge extra for wearing the tank top, ok? :p We'll work that out privately ;)

How does this sound: I could take my gasoline-powered reflector-testing device* to a very wide suburban street that I know of, park it about 1m from the curb with the low beams on, put the HandyCam in the driver's seat on the tripod, and let it tape. Then I could ride past on the right side of the vehicle while the camera's running, and on up the road. That would give a pretty true-to-life test of what it looks like to an overtaking vehicle, especially if I reverse the footage so it plays backwards before I output the final movie.

I should be able to figure out some kind of off-axis arrangement too, and I can also do clips with the headlights off. Maybe I'll go out and do a trial run with my Canon A60 digicam tonight, after traffic has died down. It only captures at 15 frames per second, which can catch the blinkies inbetween blinks and give inaccurate impressions, but at least I'll know where to run my tests from.


*1996 Dodge Caravan

Cool...um...can I request a full coverage shirt?

[mechBgon]

Cool...um...can I request a full coverage shirt?Do you want the cheetah pattern or the leopard pattern this time?






;)

[2manybikes]

Do you want the cheetah pattern or the leopard pattern this time?






;)


:roflmao: excellent.

Will slvoid be jealous?

[mechBgon]

:roflmao: excellent.

Will slvoid be jealous?He might be. It's best not to incur the wrath of the Gloved One :D

Ok, my first outing with the HandyCam produced crummy results, not worth anything for helping people judge what they'd want to buy. Maybe I'll try again with my Canon A60 tomorrow night.

[2manybikes]

[QUOTE=mechBgon]He might be. It's best not to incur the wrath of the Gloved One :D [QUOTE]


The "gloved one" is the master of all bike light threads. We have been warned!

[Savas]

Are those rubbers gloves? And what are you preparing to do with them? I see the glint in the eye as that of a proctologist.

[slvoid]

No, I will not be the forum appointed proctological light geek!

[2manybikes]

No, I will not be the forum appointed proctological light geek!


:lol:

ok ...ok...

What if we take out the word "proctological" ?

[mechBgon]

Ok, for those blinkie fanatics who may be interested, here is a photo of the Catye LD1000 (top) and Niterider blinkie (bottom) from a range of about 200ft/60m. Both blinkies are in "steady" mode here.

http://www.omnicast.net/~tmcfadden/Blinkies_at_range.jpg
both lights seem about equal at this range

And since slvoid specially asked, I put on a tank top (the orange mesh one with the yellow reflective tape :)) and filmed a walkaround of the bike in a bus park-&-ride lot. This shows the relative visibility of the two lights from different viewpoints. Sorry I'm not too smooth of a walker... oh, and I slow-mo'ed it for you guys. I suggest you view it at double-size.

http://www.omnicast.net/~tmcfadden/blinkie_walkaround.wmv (3MB Windows Media Player video file)

I ran the lights in steady mode because my camera captures at 15 frames per second, which would result in missing blinks if the lights were in flashing mode. Anyway, they both have their stronger and weaker areas, and they both are visible from any direction. I could see the Cateye's powerful side-mounted LEDs helping to keep motorists aware that they're alongside a cyclist, presuming the automobile is low enough to the ground that the light can shine through the passenger-side windows.

All in all, it's wonderful that there are finally standalone blinkies like the LD1000 that offer this much power. When I go down a dark city street and look in my helmet mirror, the street signs are lit with red light for 3-4 blocks back. :)

[slvoid]

NICE! Thank god we didn't have to see any more of you. :p

I hope everyone can get a good idea of what I mean when I say the cateye's only really bright when you're directly on axis with the focusing lenses. The NR's cone is a lot wider from the rear.

Ok, for those blinkie fanatics who may be interested, here is a photo of the Catye LD1000 (top) and Niterider blinkie (bottom) from a range of about 200ft/60m. Both blinkies are in "steady" mode here.

http://www.omnicast.net/~tmcfadden/Blinkies_at_range.jpg
both lights seem about equal at this range

And since slvoid specially asked, I put on a tank top (the orange mesh one with the yellow reflective tape :)) and filmed a walkaround of the bike in a bus park-&-ride lot. This shows the relative visibility of the two lights from different viewpoints. Sorry I'm not too smooth of a walker... oh, and I slow-mo'ed it for you guys. I suggest you view it at double-size.

http://www.omnicast.net/~tmcfadden/blinkie_walkaround.wmv (3MB Windows Media Player video file)

I ran the lights in steady mode because my camera captures at 15 frames per second, which would result in missing blinks if the lights were in flashing mode. Anyway, they both have their stronger and weaker areas, and they both are visible from any direction. I could see the Cateye's powerful side-mounted LEDs helping to keep motorists aware that they're alongside a cyclist, presuming the automobile is low enough to the ground that the light can shine through the passenger-side windows.

All in all, it's wonderful that there are finally standalone blinkies like the LD1000 that offer this much power. When I go down a dark city street and look in my helmet mirror, the street signs are lit with red light for 3-4 blocks back. :)

[2manybikes]

Very nice, it might be helpful if the link to the movie was added to the "light selection guide" first post. I think that is now a temporary sticky. That would make it easier to find.

Did you kick over your beer in the process? *clink* :D

[slvoid]

Done and done. :p

[vrkelley]

Very nice, it might be helpful if the link to the movie was added to the "light selection guide" first post. I think that is now a temporary sticky. That would make it easier to find.

Did you kick over your beer in the process? *clink* :D

Your wish is my command...now where's that Beer! :beer:

[froze]

If you do an off axis picture you have to rearrange the LD500 so that it is vertical not horzontal as it is in the photos. If left horzontal you won't get much off axis light, but vertically you will get quite a bit more.

[mechBgon]

If you do an off axis picture you have to rearrange the LD500 so that it is vertical not horzontal as it is in the photos. If left horzontal you won't get much off axis light, but vertically you will get quite a bit more.So that we're both on the same sheet of music, the picture and the video clip shown in post #22 are actually the LD1000 on the top, and the Niterider on the bottom. The LD500 is there (it's below the LD1000) but was turned off for this go-around :)

I did some other attempts at video and photos, including riding out into the low-beam headlights of my Dodge Caravan. The video clips didn't come out that great, but I'll upload one more that I think shows the relative merits of different visibility equipment.

http://www.omnicast.net/~tmcfadden/Caravan1.wmv

The camera is on 3x zoom, I stopped about 25 meters in front of my car. The bike is royal blue, but has amber TrimBrite reflective tape all over it, and there's also some TrimBrite tape on the back of my helmet. The front panniers have a band of Scotchlite reflective material across the sides. The reflective legbands are some wide Jog-A-Lite ones that I got at REI. The reflective vest is a cheapie $5 one made of orange mesh. And I'm wearing my neon-yellow REI jacket with reflective piping.

Based on this video clip, I think the reflective legbands are a high-value item for after-dark road riding. Even with the 12W HID headlight coming at the camera, the legbands still show up too. They're cheap, 360° visible, no batteries required, you can use them with any of your bikes without any hassle, and they last for years. And their motion should help identify what you are. Assuming you want that to be known :p

The clip also demonstrates that even neon-yellow clothing is not that visible in the dark, and that the same reflective material is much less effective if it's up off the ground where headlights aren't reaching it very much (the TrimBrite on the bike is much more effective than the TrimBrite on the back of my helmet).

[michaelnel]

Wow, these videos are great stuff. Thanks for going to the trouble of doing them!

[2manybikes]

Done and done. :p

You may save another BF member from buying the wrong tailight too. Cool. :)





Your wish is my command...now where's that Beer!

Thanks

I emailed it to you. :D ;)


Nice work mechBgon ! :beer:

[mechBgon]

Thanks guys :beer:

[scottmorrison99]

Thanks, bought the TL-LD 1000 today. I am very pleased with it. The videos helped with my decision to upgrade from my old blinkie.

[Michel Gagnon]

I ordered and finally got a TL-LD 1000. Overall satisfied, but I don't see it as "the ultimate light".

On the plus side:
– It's brighter than the Vistalite Eclipse and Super Nebula.
– The bracket is very sturdy. (I was afraid of it because it looks very similar to a MEC taillight I have; that taillight is somewhat decent, but shake the bike a little bit and the bracket breaks apart!)
– It uses AA batteries (not AAA)

On the so-so side:
– At an 10-15° angle, it is much less visible than the Vistalite Eclipse (the tiny 7-LED one).
– The cap looks a bit flimsy, and I'm afraid a tab might break at some point, especially if I have to swap batteries in the cold. If you add the fact it's not evident what is the "good way" to install the cover, and I think it might be fairly easy to break the cover. Hope I'm wrong.
– Battery poles are not clearly identified. A tiny + and - are engraved in the red plastic, but they should be painted white. How would I see those tiny markings if I need to change the batteries in the dark?


Design issues and Possibilities for improvement

– Considering that no light goes through the body of the TL-LD 1000, they might have improved it by putting reflectorized red plastic for the body (i.e. in between the bulbs).

– Since electrical energy is limited, I'm not a fan of too much a fan of side lighting. More specifically, I think one light on each side is enough. They might have improved the TL-LD 1000 design by having two different rows of LEDs. For example:
- top row: as it is currently
- bottom row: either 5 LEDs towards the back, or two angled leds at 30° sideways (instead of 90°), or some very focussed LEDs à la BLT Super Doppler (http://blt-lights.com/rearsuperdopplerdx.htm).

Then we would get a really superb light.

[mac]

I have had problems with the LD-1000 - it keeps going out! I twist the battery compartment shut, but whenever I go over a bump, the wire connections or something gets misaligned, the power connection gets broken, and my light goes out. That's why I use a Vistalight. When I get around to it, I'm going to either try to stretch out the spring/contact wires in the LD-1000 or junk it and put on an amber flasher.

[I-Like-To-Bike]

I have had problems with the LD-1000 - it keeps going out! I twist the battery compartment shut, but whenever I go over a bump, the wire connections or something gets misaligned, the power connection gets broken, and my light goes out. That's why I use a Vistalight. When I get around to it, I'm going to either try to stretch out the spring/contact wires in the LD-1000 or junk it and put on an amber flasher.
I had the same problem and did stretch out the springs to no avail. I then cleaned the springs, again, with a pencil eraser. This time the moons of Jupiter must have lined up with the rings of Saturn, because it started working again and has continued to do so without any problem for several months since the treatment.

[2manybikes]

I had the same problem and did stretch out the springs to no avail. I then cleaned the springs, again, with a pencil eraser. This time the moons of Jupiter must have lined up with the rings of Saturn, because it started working again and has continued to do so without any problem for several months since the treatment.

You cleaned the invisible dirt and corrosion off the contacts. It works for lots of things. Calculators, flashlights, etc. Next time after cleaning the contacts use a clean q-tip and wipe the contacts and springs with a little wd-40, then it will last even longer. Possibly longer than when new. When you replace batteries don't touch the contacts or the ends of the batteries. The oil on your fingers creates a little corrosion too. If you do just clean and wipe a little wd-40 on what you touched.

[pricklycommute]

Yep, I had to clean the contacts too. Now it never turns off anymore.

And by the way, it seems to be a pretty hardy light. I had it fall off my rack (homemade rigging job) at 30 mph and it still works. Just a couple scratches.