Bicycle Mechanics - New rear wheel (FW-> Cassette, DT -> STI?)

Early this year, I bought a late '80s Schwinn Tempo for cheap. It is is good condition with all of the stock parts. I got it to use for a few triathlons over this year and next, for which if I was still "into" them, I'd get a tri bike.

Well, I'm still into triathlons, but I've also discovered the joys of commuting to work and have grown really fond of this bike.

The problem is that the rear wheel is out of round and I'm starting to think of getting a new one. At first I thought I'd just get an older freewheel-hub'ed wheel off of ebay, but I'm really scared of what I may end up with, sight unseen. Now, I'm seriously considering a 8/9 speed freehub wheel, but have some questions:
1) I'm fairly certain that I'll need a new chain, but what about the front sprokets? I currently have the biopace variety.
2) Will my 6-speed rear der & DT shifters (in friction mode) work? I believe it will work, but I may not get all gears w/o a rd/shifter upgrade.
3) When going from 126mm to 130mm, is the frame actually bent, or is the wheel just "stuffed" in there?
4) I'd like to also, sometime later, go with a STI brake lever/shifter. Anything else I should be considering?

Thanks

Early this year, I bought a late '80s Schwinn Tempo for cheap. It is is good condition with all of the stock parts. I got it to use for a few triathlons over this year and next, for which if I was still "into" them, I'd get a tri bike.

Well, I'm still into triathlons, but I've also discovered the joys of commuting to work and have grown really fond of this bike.

The problem is that the rear wheel is out of round and I'm starting to think of getting a new one. At first I thought I'd just get an older freewheel-hub'ed wheel off of ebay, but I'm really scared of what I may end up with, sight unseen. Now, I'm seriously considering a 8/9 speed freehub wheel, but have some questions:
1) I'm fairly certain that I'll need a new chain, but what about the front sprokets? I currently have the biopace variety.
2) Will my 6-speed rear der & DT shifters (in friction mode) work? I believe it will work, but I may not get all gears w/o a rd/shifter upgrade.
3) When going from 126mm to 130mm, is the frame actually bent, or is the wheel just "stuffed" in there?
4) I'd like to also, sometime later, go with a STI brake lever/shifter. Anything else I should be considering?

ThanksYou are starting to shovel money into a black hole.This well may be a case where you could buy good used stuff or maybe even new for less money. Try www.harriscyclery.com for wheels with freewheel hubs. You did not mention if you have 700c or 27" wheels. that can add to the complication. Your rear dropouts will have to be spread to take a wider 8/9 hub. If they are alrady 126 the 130 hub will fit by spreading by hand....You need a new chain particularly with 9 speed. Front sprockets aren't an issue unless badly worn.Your RD may or may not have enough travel. Barend shiftes are cheaper and alot less hassle than STI.Some of this upgraade madness does not make alot of sense unless it is also some kind of therapy.

Early this year, I bought a late '80s Schwinn Tempo for cheap. It is is good condition with all of the stock parts.

The problem is that the rear wheel is out of round and I'm starting to think of getting a new one. At first I thought I'd just get an older freewheel-hub'ed wheel off of ebay, but I'm really scared of what I may end up with, sight unseen. Now, I'm seriously considering a 8/9 speed freehub wheel, but have some questions:
1) I'm fairly certain that I'll need a new chain, but what about the front sprokets? I currently have the biopace variety.
2) Will my 6-speed rear der & DT shifters (in friction mode) work? I believe it will work, but I may not get all gears w/o a rd/shifter upgrade.
3) When going from 126mm to 130mm, is the frame actually bent, or is the wheel just "stuffed" in there?
4) I'd like to also, sometime later, go with a STI brake lever/shifter. Anything else I should be considering?

The Tempo was quite a nice model, if memory serves. Definitely a keeper if it fits you.

1) You should always replace the chain when you install a new cluster, but it is VERY unlikely that you need new chainrings in front.

Lots of people who've never used them will tell you Biopace chainwheels are [insert favorite term of deprecation here] but in my experience, they're a Good Thing. See: http://sheldonbrown.com/biopace

2) Friction shifters work with everything, and derailers don't care how many gears. You haven't said what kind of shifters/derailers you've got, or I could make more specific recommendations.

3) You can go either way, as you prefer. See: http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing

4) The STI or Ergo upgrade is a good thing. In addition to more convenient shifting, this will also provide improved braking...modern brake levers (the style where the cables run under the handlebar tape) work noticeably better than the old-fashioned ones where the cables loop over the top.

Sheldon "Uptempo" Brown

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| One can never know what is enough |
| until one knows what is too much. |
| --William Blake |
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I figure I could do the whole thing for about $300, but I'll spread it out by getting the wheel setup now and the shifters later. I also feel this would put my bike on par with the $700 new bikes. I am still saving a good bit of money and I plan on keeping this bike for a long time. I really want my next bike to be a tri bike which will require that I have another bike for commuting.

I have Shimano 105 rd and index shifters. Actually, all components on the bike are Shimano 105 and still in excellent condition. I'm really not sure, yet, what I want to do about the shfiters. My current thought is to ride around with friction downtubes until I find a good deal on some Tiagra or 105 shifter/brake levers on ebay or through friends. I really don't like the Sora ones and havn't really looked into the Campy ones. My perception is Campy is more $$ and I'm trying to keep it down within reason.

Sheldon, I've been all over your sites gathering information, but I somhow missed the frame spreading bits. Thanks for the direct link.

Rear wheel is "out of round"? Does it just need to be trued?



105 indexed downtube shifters sound okay for a commuter bike to me.


Upgrade to STI? This way lies madness. Read sydney's last sentence again.

I figure I could do the whole thing for about $300, but I'll spread it out by getting the wheel setup now and the shifters later. I also feel this would put my bike on par with the $700 new bikes. I am still saving a good bit of money and I plan on keeping this bike for a long time. I really want my next bike to be a tri bike which will require that I have another bike for commuting.

I have Shimano 105 rd and index shifters. Actually, all components on the bike are Shimano 105 and still in excellent condition. I'm really not sure, yet, what I want to do about the shfiters. My current thought is to ride around with friction downtubes until I find a good deal on some Tiagra or 105 shifter/brake levers on ebay or through friends. I really don't like the Sora ones and havn't really looked into the Campy ones. My perception is Campy is more $$ and I'm trying to keep it down within reason.

Sheldon, I've been all over your sites gathering information, but I somhow missed the frame spreading bits. Thanks for the direct link.

The Sora shifters are really nice, they're my favorite Shimano model! Unforunately only available in 7- and 8-speed at present.

Your 105 derailers are going to be compatible with any Shimano shifters except old Dura-Ace.

Sheldon "Go For It!" Brown

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| There was a young lady named Bright |
| Whose speed was far faster than light; |
| She set out one day |
| In a relative way |
| And returned on the previous night. |
| -- A.H.R. Buller |
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