Winter Cycling - Help me keep on pedaling through spring

The other day I bought a beater Huffy to use as a winter bike rather than my skinny-tired '89 Schwinn roadie. The Huffy is a little smaller/lower and has smaller, wider and knobbier tires, all of which I figure makes it a little better for the kind of riding I'll be doing this winter, plus it's already a beater. But it's an 18 speed - should I convert it to a single-speed or a fixie, and if so, which?

I will be riding on the paved roads, probably no worse than some packed snow, maybe ice, possibly only patches of either. No drift bashing is planned.
I don't mind going more slowly than normal; I'll likely mostly be using it to go to the laundromat and the grocery store (both with my Wheele trailer, or my homebuilt if I ever finish it). I typically walk to work rather than ride - it's like four blocks.
I don't forsee me doing any shifting anyway, considering my anticipated riding. I would think losing the derailleur would leave me fewer parts to freeze up/get mucky/break.
I would continue to use this bike occasionally after winter - if it's rainy, and if converted, as something different to ride once in a while. I think I'd enjoy fooling around on a fixie, but if that's a bad idea for an icebike, I wouldn't do it to this one.

So, I need some pointers, let me know what you think. Thanks all.

If it has aluminum wheel rims, that's a plus (versus chromed-steel rims, which make a very poor brake surface when wet).

It's good to keep the chain, cassette, and brake pads clean and in good working order. After a sloppy day of snow and ice, just do a simple wipe up and that should tide you over till the weekend when there's time to do a really good cleaning.

My best tip is to get the best brakes you can find for your particular setup. Keep 'em in good workiing order.

Sorry if I wasn't clear in the OP - the central question here is "should I convert to fixed or to single-speed; and if so, which?"

(But thanks anyway for the general winter riding tips.)

On icy days, it will convert itself to a singlespeed. No need to take any action. I'd say that a manual conversion would be too much work and hassle for a cheap bike.

Paul

It will be easier and cheaper to convert to a single-speed vs a fixie, specially if you have verticle dropouts. I perfer a fixe but I doubt this bike is worth the expense. To convert to a proper single speed you will need to remove the gear cluster and replace it with a single-speed cog. Then you will need to respace the hub on the axle to line up the cog with the ring. And then realign the rim to bring it back to the center of the bike. After removing the front derailer and shifters you can adjust the rear derailer so it is fixed in the correct location. Then shorten the chain as much as possible. This will take a few hours or more depending on your skill but the only cost is a cog (<$20).
To convert to a fixe you really should have a proper fixed gear hub, which means a new rear wheel (>$100). If you have verticle dropouts then you will probably need a hub like the White Industries Eno which means the wheel is more like $200. Plus you need a cog and lock ring $30. This takes less of your time because you are buying a rear wheel but it is much more expensive.
I'd buy a good quality older MTB or tourer with horizontal dropouts to convert to fixe before I spent the money on a Huffy. Actually that what I did.

Craig

Thanks, CBBaron! I actually only spent $10 on the Huffy, intending to use it as is, then later thought maybe I could convert it. Sounds like quite a bit of work to go single, maybe beyond my current expertise ("amateurise" is more like it). Fixie conversion would be much too expensive for me at this point, especially (as you mentioned) for a Huffy.

If you are already running brakes you could convert to a fixie with a fixed cog and loctite Red. Clean the threads of the wheel first ,really well (i used a baby wipe )then clean the grease off the threads on the fixed cog. Apply the loctite and screw the parts together, let it cure 24 hours. I have used this method sucessfully on 16 inch, 14 inch and 20 inch wheel folders.Riding on snow and ice on the chicago lakefront path and Forest Preserve trails as well as streets. I have not had it unscrew. I run a front brake only on the 16 and 20 inchers . On the 14 inch I have front and rear brakes but mostly brake by retarding the pedals.I have found this a workable method but would prefer a fixed free hub and a handbuilt wheel if I could afford it.This is my experience.

This may be a dumb question, bear with me here: what if I just removed the rear derailleur and shortened the chain, essentially making it a single speed? (Actually a three speed, with the front derailleur still on, or could I lose it too?) It seems like with the chain in the proper spot around the chainring and hub it would still line up okay and not tend to slip off. This way I could still lose the derailleur (fewer parts) but not have to replace the hub.

Actually, if you want it to be a three-speed you will still need a tensioner, but if you want to just stay in one place, then I would just leave it. It will be good to have option when you are able to choose them IMHO.

Convert to fixed gear .... slap a 15 cog on that puppy as it is, with the addition of generous amounts of blue loctitte. Keep the front brake.

.....or ..... coasterbrake setup, and no other brake.

I recommend red loctite it has to be heated to 260 degrees to loosen it .I have never used blue loctite.But if local yokel has good experience with it maybe it is okay. I feel safer recommmending red.

If you say red and heat "cure" the thing, so red must be the thing.

I dont do fixed skids, just skipping.

Thanks, CBBaron! I actually only spent $10 on the Huffy, intending to use it as is, then later thought maybe I could convert it. Sounds like quite a bit of work to go single, maybe beyond my current expertise ("amateurise" is more like it). Fixie conversion would be much too expensive for me at this point, especially (as you mentioned) for a Huffy.
You can single speed by just fixing the derailers on the cog and ring you want and shortening the chain some. Then you can remove the shifters and cables. If you have horizontal dropouts and want to remove the derailers you will need to ensure that the cog and ring line up, then you can just use adjustment on the axle to tighten the chain. If you have verticle dropouts then your best bet is to single speed it with a tensioner (a rear derailer will work).
The additional work to convert to using single speed freewheel is not that difficult and can probably be done by a shop for ~$50 including the freewheel. Removing the cog requires a special tool so that is probably best left to a shop but the other steps are pretty basic and not difficult once you study the problem.
Craig