Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - 135 spaced track frames

So I am wondering if there are any. I am about to buy some new hubs, but I am also about to build up a ss 29er, so if there were any 135 spaced track frames I could use these same wheels for both and that would be badass. thanks

I think your answer may be found with Level Components.

I think the older kogswell's are

My Starnord Paris-Sport is 110.

on one il pompino is 135mm, until the new ones come out

I wouldnt consider them true "track" frames though...
a "true" track frame will have a spacing of 120,sometimes in Japan 110.
DW

What Don said.

Kogswell single-fixed framesets aren't track bikes or even path racers.

They're the result of sixty years of fixed gear road cycling shared between
the two designers, myself and a close friend and riding buddy; the guy who
actully got me interested in bikes and fixed gear cycling back in '69.

If they seem polished and smooth it's because spent a lot of years in
the saddle going over evey detail until it <was> polished.

And before I forget, if the original poster wants to get a nice 135mm
rear fixee hub, Tony (IRO) still has some of the original 135mm,
Kogswell-designed rear hubs in stock. They built with super fancy
hardware and they use the 'tight' bearing design, which renders them
very durable. We wanted them be tough enough to stand up to the
rigors of urban cycling and so for, no one is complaining.

A 29er rim is different then a 700c.

the il pompino is a good bike.

A 29er rim is different then a 700c.

no it aint

i thought 29ers were a little wider than a standard 700c

Watch those track crankarms clearing wide splayed chainstays...

I've been wondering... what is a "true" track frame?
i (as a non-expert) would say the geometry including ability to accept track spaced hubs (120mm or 110mm as stated by don) as well as the single gear lacking a freewheel (fixed gear). not to forget the lack of brakes and brake holes ...etc.

Watch those track crankarms clearing wide splayed chainstays...

Or, just use a mountain bike crankset. The outer chainring on MTB cranks is positioned at 52mm if you use the crank's matching BB. Hence the 'standard' 52mm spacing on MTB single speed and fixee hubs (Kogswell, Phil, Surly, On One, etc.). I'm no expert, but I've heard that MTB cranks are pretty easier to find. And the MTB single-speed craze has left us with plenty of nice rampless/pinless chainings that fit them.

i thought 29ers were a little wider than a standard 700c

I'm running 29" fatties on your typical bontrager race lite 700c wheels. They don't necessarily need to be wider.

i thought 29ers were a little wider than a standard 700c

"29er" refers only to the rim diameter (which is nowhere near 29")
Open Pros seem to be pretty popular 29er rims. I've seen people run 2" tires on them.

i (as a non-expert) would say the geometry including ability to accept track spaced hubs (120mm or 110mm as stated by don) as well as the single gear lacking a freewheel (fixed gear). not to forget the lack of brakes and brake holes ...etc.

So 120 or 110mm spacing, a fixed gear and no brakes or brake holes.

So what does the geometry look like?

Surly Crosschecks and Iro Rob Roys and Jaime Roys all take 135s.

i think the van dessel country road bob is 135.
surly crosscheck can also work with 135.

probably not going to find any off the shelf frame with track geometry & 135 spacing.

So what does the geometry look like?
steep angles.
tight clearances.
high bb.
overlapping of toe clip and front wheel.

i think the van dessel country road bob is 135.
surly crosscheck can also work with 135.

probably not going to find any off the shelf frame with track geometry & 135 spacing.


the CRB is totally 135.

Surly Crosschecks and Iro Rob Roys and Jaime Roys all take 135s.

I don't think my Jamie Roy would like a 135mm hub shoved up its 130mm track ends. Also, it doesn't really have track geometry. This sounds like a custom job.

the CRB is totally 135.

perhaps you could get a trackish feel by using a road fork on one of these cross frames. might screw up BB hight, tho.

I don't think my Jamie Roy would like a 135mm hub shoved up its 130mm track ends. Also, it doesn't really have track geometry. This sounds like a custom job.


i shoved a 135 XT mountain hub in my trek 600, which is spaced at 130. if the jamie roy is steel, it's all good.

steep angles.
tight clearances.
high bb.
overlapping of toe clip and front wheel.

So, here's what I have so far:

- 120 or 110 rear spacing
- a fixed gear
- no brakes or brake drilling
- steep angles
- tight clearances
- high bottom bracket
- TOC (toe clip overlap)

Not to be dense, but how steep should the angles be? And should they be the same front and rear?
Also, how high should the BB be. And is it better to talk about BB height or BB drop (front wheel axle centerline)? Oh, and is there a reason why TOC is required? I'm gonna assume 700C (ISO 622) wheels.
And if someone could list chainstay length and fork offset, I'd be obliged. Thanks!

One more thing... how tight are the clearances?

I don't think my Jamie Roy would like a 135mm hub shoved up its 130mm track ends. Also, it doesn't really have track geometry. This sounds like a custom job.

I've routinely used 135mm hubs on frames spaced at 130. Hardly a big deal at all.

i shoved a 135 XT mountain hub in my trek 600, which is spaced at 130. if the jamie roy is steel, it's all good.

It's aluminum. However, the cross check has 132.5 mm spacing to take both road and mountain hubs, and the rob roy is steel, so it might not mind being cold set to 135. They're both 'cross bikes though, so no steep angles and tons of clearance.

So, here's what I have so far:

- 120 or 110 rear spacing
- a fixed gear
- no brakes or brake drilling
- steep angles
- tight clearances
- high bottom bracket
- TOC (toe clip overlap)

Not to be dense, but how steep should the angles be? And should they be the same front and rear?
Also, how high should the BB be. And is it better to talk about BB height or BB drop (front wheel axle centerline)? Oh, and is there a reason why TOC is required? I'm gonna assume 700C (ISO 622) wheels.
And if someone could list chainstay length and fork offset, I'd be obliged. Thanks!

One more thing... how tight are the clearances?

Is this going to result in the Kogswell Model BC (by committee)?

;)

Is this going to result in the Kogswell Model BC (by committee)?

;)

(I think you meant Model BK - by kommittee)

And, yeah, by committee is right.

Half our frames are designed by way of collaboration. I like to give people what they want.

The other half of the time I just make what I want.

That and I'd like to get a handle on what you all are thinking.

So, here's what I have so far:

- 120 or 110 rear spacing
- a fixed gear
- no brakes or brake drilling
- steep angles
- tight clearances
- high bottom bracket
- TOC (toe clip overlap)

Not to be dense, but how steep should the angles be? And should they be the same front and rear?
Also, how high should the BB be. And is it better to talk about BB height or BB drop (front wheel axle centerline)? Oh, and is there a reason why TOC is required? I'm gonna assume 700C (ISO 622) wheels.
And if someone could list chainstay length and fork offset, I'd be obliged. Thanks!

One more thing... how tight are the clearances?


brake drillings are fine (at least in the rear). toe clip overlap isn't necessarily required, but i feel track bikes should have a shorter front end than road bikes, preferably equal to or no more than 1.5cm more than the seat tube. chainstays should be less than 40 cm. 35-40 degress of fork offset (depending on size of frame and head tube angle). no less that 74 degree head and seattube angle (again, that depends on the size of the frame). oh, and clearances should allow for nothing larger than 23mm tires.

my opinions based on what i will get when purchase a custom/BTO frame.

on one il pompino is 135mm, until the new ones come out

apparently the frameset will be still 135, but when bought as a complete bike the frame will be spaced 120. not sure why they'd bother - maybe because they have started making track cranks too.

I am just lovin' mine to death, but there is no way you can consider this a track bike (or any other 135 spaced frame for that matter)

marty

So I am wondering if there are any. I am about to buy some new hubs, but I am also about to build up a ss 29er, so if there were any 135 spaced track frames I could use these same wheels for both and that would be badass. thanks

you are looking for a frame with fork ends as opposed to dropouts, aren't you?

I'm really confused by 29ers... How could they be the same size as 700c if 700c is supposed to be a little smaller than 27" wheels? Is "29ers" just a nickname?

^ "marketing term" not "nickname" :D

BTW 27"s aren't 27" either

I'm really confused by 29ers... How could they be the same size as 700c if 700c is supposed to be a little smaller than 27" wheels? Is "29ers" just a nickname?

29 is nominal tire diameter, just like 26" or 27". They aren't rim sizes. Yes, it's kind of silly.

(I think you meant Model BK - by kommittee)
And, yeah, by committee is right.
Half our frames are designed by way of collaboration. I like to give people what they want.
The other half of the time I just make what I want.
That and I'd like to get a handle on what you all are thinking.

Well, personally I think my Steamroller is about perfect for a road going fixed gear bike. I don't want a track style bike at all. The Steamroller handles wonderfully and I can run a long reach front brake and fatter tires. The only things I'd change are adding eyelets for racks and fenders although that tends to mess up the clean look.

Hell, 700c is nominal tire diameter.

700C is a rim+tire combo that's supposed to be 700mm across. Do the math, that's a 39mm tire if you really had a 700C tire. Yowza.

29ers are supposed to be about 29" with a 2.3" tire.

27" calls for a 1-1/4" tire.

26" means 1.75" tires.