Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Suzue Pro Max, all scientific like

Ok, let's see if anything interesting comes out in this. If you have experience with the Pro Max, please answer here. I am grouping SB, NJS, and CF all together because keeping them separate would make for way too many choices.

judah and i did a scientific head-to-head with my phil highflange SLR's vs. his suzue pro max's. while it was decided that the hollograms are fugly and the phils are more durable, the pro max rolled with less resistance and longer.

(we also decided that cheapie 40's of high life in the park on a sunny day are your friend)

judah and i did a scientific head-to-head with my phil highflange SLR's vs. his suzue pro max's. while it was decided that the hollograms are fugly and the phils are more durable, the pro max rolled with less resistance and longer.

(we also decided that cheapie 40's of high life in the park on a sunny day are your friend)

yes

ust ifne, that's got my money.

judah and i did a scientific head-to-head with my phil highflange SLR's vs. his suzue pro max's. while it was decided that the hollograms are fugly and the phils are more durable, the pro max rolled with less resistance and longer.

(we also decided that cheapie 40's of high life in the park on a sunny day are your friend)

Spinning a bearing that is not under load and timing how long it will take for it to stop is not an indicator of how well it will roll under load (in real life).

For example: The fasted spinning bearing under no load will be a looser bearing with almost no lubrication. As long as there is no pressure on it it will spin the fastest and longest, because the balls won't be snug and won't need to push around any oil and/or grease which slows bearings down in free spinning tests. However if you put some load on that bearing and start spinning it, it will get very hot very fast and shortly after will fuse toghether and seize.

I used to race skateboards and tested all kinds of bearings. The ones that are the fastest in real life are the ones that are the most precise, where axle + wheel + bearing form a very snug fit and have no play. (Due to all the very tight clearances they don't spin "forever" when you spin them under no load.)
For racing the bearing would be cleaned and then very minimaly lubed before the race. After the race you clean them again and relube them for the next race. The bearings I use for training or just bombing hills are packed with phil grease, because it lasts for avery long time and requires little maintanance. I would never race these bearings though, because the balls have to push the grease around which slows them down. Of course this is only noticeable when looking at timed results sot for everyday riding it doesn't matter.

No problem with my Pro Max's. All I can compare them to directly is the stock Fuji Track bike hubs. Of course they are much better. Probably less than 3,000 miles on them.

This is beginning to remind me of the explosion of BFFG MNG threads...

This is beginning to remind me of the explosion of BFFG MNG threads...

i don't know what you're talking about!

Even though I like my Phil hubs, I think the Suzue SB hub is much more cost-effective. Never had a problem with Suzue, I run 32h SB in the winter and NJS in the summer. Ride the crap out of them, and have yet to have a problem with any part on any Suzue hub.