there are three problems i noticed after the first snow fall of the year:

1. brakes don't work - at all. these are standard ultrega pads, would something else work better?

2. shoes\booties let in water. anyway to keep feet dry? perhaps a plastic bag around foot?

3. hardly any traction with road tires. would getting something with tread pattern help? any recommendations? the largest my rim will take is 700x25.

any cheap remedies for these problems? i can't buy a mtn bike or cx bike, so i have to make due with the roadie.

My cheap foot waterproofing is a std supermarket carrier bag with an elastic band. It is only suitable for cold conditions.

do you put that over your sock and inside the shoe?

Timm,

Brakes: That's why many of us ride fixed. I haven't tried them personally (I ride fixed in the winter) but a lot of people swear by KoolStop pads.

Wet feet: Small trash bags work great. Grocery bags and newspaper bags are okay in a pinch, but they leak water.

Traction: I've always just used road slicks and slow way down at the icy spots.

Consider joining the IceBike (http://www.icebike.org/) discussion list for good advice about winter riding.

hmmm, plastic bags on my feet only make my feet sweat, and then they get really cold. I prefer the following:

1. don't use your cycling shoes--the metal cleat sends the cold straight through to your feet.

2. put a big wool sock (military surplus has them) over your shoes (cut out the bottom of the sock to prevent snagging on the pedals). Also, wear wicking socks and wool socks inside the shoe.

3. Wear a skullcap or thin beanie under your helmet. Keeping your head warm will keep the rest of you warm.

4. The cheapest way to prevent falls on ice is to not ride on ice. Ride gingerly. A few falls may convince you that studded tires are affordable. Wear your helmet.

there are three problems i noticed after the first snow fall of the year:

1. brakes don't work - at all. these are standard ultrega pads, would something else work better?

2. shoes\booties let in water. anyway to keep feet dry? perhaps a plastic bag around foot?

3. hardly any traction with road tires. would getting something with tread pattern help? any recommendations? the largest my rim will take is 700x25.

any cheap remedies for these problems? i can't buy a mtn bike or cx bike, so i have to make due with the roadie.

1. Koolstop help, fixed also works, both are even better.
2. Some booties are better than others but plastic bags inside the shoe will help with external water.
3. Ride gingerly. You don't have much other choice in 25mm tires. If you are light then lower the pressure closer to the minimum instead of the maximum.

I have an old road bike converted to fixie I am currently riding. The Koolstop + fixed work pretty well. The 23mm tires work but are much less than ideal. I scored an old touring frame off of Ebay which will get the parts from my current roadie for the rest of winter.
Craig

Craig

there are three problems i noticed after the first snow fall of the year:

1. brakes don't work - at all. these are standard ultrega pads, would something else work better?

2. shoes\booties let in water. anyway to keep feet dry? perhaps a plastic bag around foot?

3. hardly any traction with road tires. would getting something with tread pattern help? any recommendations? the largest my rim will take is 700x25.

any cheap remedies for these problems? i can't buy a mtn bike or cx bike, so i have to make due with the roadie.

New pads unless you are riding in snow and getting ice on the pads. If this is the case new pads will not help.

A plastic bag over just the front of your foot. With the back open you get some breathing. It depends on how long you're riding and if you are working hard. If it's just a short ride, a bag over the whole foot may be OK.

Tread will help a little, but with those type of tires you may not even be able to notice the improvement.

The tire size is limited by the frame clearance usually, not the rim. How did you get that size limitation?

The tire size is limited by the frame clearance usually, not the rim. How did you get that size limitation?

i have mavic open pro rims. the recommended tire width was 20-25mm.

however, the inner width of the rim is listed as 14.5mm. i checked sheldon's website and i could probably support a 28 or even a 30mm tire.

i have mavic open pro rims. the recommended tire width was 20-25mm.

however, the inner width of the rim is listed as 14.5mm. i checked sheldon's website and i could probably support a 28 or even a 30mm tire.

I'm thinking wider tires and more tread at the same time. As wide as possible. I would have even thought a 32 would be OK.

I was able to fit 700c x 28's on one of my road bikes. What I found was that width was ok, but the distance from the tire to the front derailleur clamp was not enough. The tire rubbed against it. So keep an eye on the seat tube distance and the
tire. As you go wider, the tire will also grow in diameter.

Anyhow, there is a guy on the net who believes in using "beater" bikes as his winter commuter.
Buys em cheap, keeps em maintained just enough to last a winter or two, and then he goes on to the next one.

http://mudhead.uottawa.ca/~pete/winter.txt

I've seen 7 spd mountain bikes going for under $200 on craigslist.com . Jeez, if I had the room, I'd have an aramada of used bikes to go through for commuting. Some are real nice, brand name (trek, kona, cannondale...etc...) under valued, and in excellent shape.

I can't believe you don't or cannot come up with at least $250 bucks (again you can get a real real decent bike at this price for a bike that once sold for close to $500-$700 a few years ago). Here is a tip on making some money...

With the use of the internet...you can sell pretty much anything, and anywhere. You cannot believe what people are into these days. I sold a toy robot that transformed into plane for almost $750. I bought it at some obscure Japanese Hobby Store in Vancouver about 15 yrs ago for less then $50. It turned out to be a collectors item. If I still had the box, it would have gone for over $1000. Most of my biking paraphernalia was bought from stuff I sold on ebay. Seek out your friends, parents, girlfriends, co-workers and ask if they have a box of what they think is junk. If anything catches your attention, write down the details, and then go to Ebay, and do a search for exact or similar items for sale to get an idea of what they are going for. If they don't have anything (and I find that hard to believe), go to rummage sales, second hand shops, pawn shops, yard sales, garbage pick (if you have to). If you do end up buying something to sell on Ebay, do the research first on what it's going for, so you stay within the formula of "buy lo, sell hi".

Here are some more tips...

1. Best time to sell summer sports equipment/parts... is in the spring and right at the end of summer. Likewise, skiing equipment, cross country, coats...etc best to sell right before winter.
2. For the cold months, think of hobbies people like to do indoors
3. During the holidays, alot of people are at home surfing the net. Best time to sell
a. Easter
b. Thanksgiving (one of the best)
c. Christmas Holiday ( a little slow, due to money being low from buying gifts).
d. Post on Sundays, after 6 pm, so the sale ends on the Following Sunday, after 6 pm. More people are
at home this time of the week


Other than that, you can get some nice stuff (and alot of money) from sexual favors.

Other than that, you can get some nice stuff (and alot of money) from sexual favors.

how does that work?

What's your budget?

Low end tricks: Kool Stop salmon-colored pads are reputed to work well in rain and ice. Switch to platform pedals, raise your handlebars, and lower the seat so you can slide a foot along the ground in slick spots. Totes overshoes work well over normal shoes -- get the high top kind. Never use the front brake unless on ice-free pavement.

Higher end tricks: Buy a cruiser-type bike with fenders, chainguard, and coaster brake. Department stores seem to have these for a few hundred dollars or less. The Huffy "Cranbrook" goes for $80, and will be better winter transportation than a Lightspeed. Unlike the faux "mountain bike" things they sell, the Huffy cruisers are durable, practical, and a good value. I've hauled some big loads over long distances with them on the NC Outer Banks. They last for years in the highly corrosive salt air there, so they should do well on salted roads. They appear to be honest, Chinese transportation bikes, painted bright colors so that they can be sold to Americans as toys.

Come to think of it, a Cranbrook with Nokian W106 studded tires, cheap LED headlight, and blinkie might be a good, $200 winter bike. The one bad thing about them is that they have monster, bar-stool-like saddles. I'd swap in a narrower saddle.

Paul

Wide saddles = chaffing.

I cannot post pictures of that .... neither I have them

how does that work?

Ask a librarian.

His tire problem is combo of frame and u-brake clearance. Unless you get canti bosses welded on, you're stuck with U-brakes. I see plenty of messengers still on slicks up here (and believe me its slick). The key is exactly whats been said above, avoid the ice and if you can't slow down before it, not on it.

there are three problems i noticed after the first snow fall of the year:

1. brakes don't work - at all. these are standard ultrega pads, would something else work better?

2. shoes\booties let in water. anyway to keep feet dry? perhaps a plastic bag around foot?

3. hardly any traction with road tires. would getting something with tread pattern help? any recommendations? the largest my rim will take is 700x25.

any cheap remedies for these problems? i can't buy a mtn bike or cx bike, so i have to make due with the roadie.
for Question #1 you can always cut grooves in your brake pads with a razor blade
Question#2 Don't ride through standing water.
Question #3 ...your screwed, because you can't put 26"x2.5 knobbies on your bike.

As far as shoes...............I use Performance neoprene full shoe covers that are wind proof and water proof. I think they are $29.99 and worth it!

timmhaan.

Here are some inexpensive things that I have done that work.

Cheapest for feet. Use two plastic bags and a thick wool sock with your shoes. You have to put them on the right way or it won't work. First you must put over your bare foot the first plastic bag. It must be right next to your skin to form a vapor barrier. This will trap the warm moist air from yur feet and keep it there where it will not go into your socks. Next the wool sock and then the other plastic bag and then your shoe.

The sock stays dry from both the outside and the inside. Your foot will feel slightly clammy but it will be a warm clammy. This will only work if it is not really cold. Down to about zero centigrade.

For a little money you can buy a neoprene sock which fits better and adds some insulation. Use this as a vapor barrior right next to your skin. Then a warm sock your shoe and a neoprene shoe cover. This combination is pretty warm if you use a thick wool sock.

I also made my own mountain bike winter boots that is warmer still. I bought some discounted hiking boots at the local recreation outlet store for 40 USD. They need to have two traits. Very light (for hiking boots) and a very stiff sole. Mine had a thick sole plus a 4-5 mm nylon insole. I took out the foam insole and drilled two holes and installed SPD clips with two T-nuts. Then I put the foam insole back in. I was very surprised that I could not feel the T-nets as they were right under the raised portion of the ball of my foot.

These things are really warm when used with a neoprene sock and a wool sock. Really toasty. By the way, I used a wood router to remove some of the lugs on the sole where the SPD clip goes. I can even walk in them and could hike out of a bad situation if necessary.

The next best thing for me is a helmet cover. This combined with a cheap balaclava and your good for really cold tempertures.

I don't buy expensive bike jersey's for layering under my main jacket. I use either my windstopping bike jacket or a non insulated SKI jacket that I bought at the recreation outlet for 49 USD. It even has pit zips. It is made from heavier material than my GORE windstopper jacket and if I fall when mountain biking it won't tear as easy. I use an inexpensive medium weight wicking polypro SKI thermal shirt first. THen a wicking SKI turtleneck made of polyester. Then a lightweight long sleeve polyester fleece shirt and then the jacket. This will be too warm for some but it works wonders for me.

I carry an extra layer of fleece in a small knapsack on winter rides. It is very light and the foam pad from the knapsack backing adds even more warmth. IF you have one it would be great to carry a down parka since it can packup very small and is very little weight. Then if you get a flat and have to fix it you can put it on and take it off when you get ready to go again.

I also converted a pair of snowboarding pants for riding by cutting out the boot apron and narrowing the lower legs so they don't get caught in the chain. They are very warm and comfortable with no tights underneath. Way better than cold weather tights for really cold conditions.

Also there are cyclocross tires you can get that will fit y our bike. There are several styles with knobbies that will work for winter cycling.

Get a beater, Tim. :p

Silverexpress and slvoid are right. Scour Craiglist, Ebay and local classified for used bikes. You might be able to find an appropriate one (wide tires and working breaks) for cheap.

Focus on quality simplicity rather than cheap complexity, maybe even a single speed or fixed wheel.

Also, go to the library and check out some bike maintenance books. I like the Zenn and the Art of Roadbike/MTB Maintenance, but use whichever one works best for you. Think about buying it. Doing your own repairs and maintenance can save you a ton of money.

Google "freecycle" + the name of the city you live in. You should find links to a list that helps people give away and receive free stuff. Follow the directions and ask for somebody to give you an old mountain bike, and/or the gear you need. You will be doing them and yourself a favor.

I understand the compelling need to conserve funds. Elsewhere on this list is an entry from a long term ice cyclist that only used what he called "disposible" bikes. Your ultegra kitted bike might be worth saving. You don't need to spend $400 or even $100 if you don't want to. When I look at Craig's list here in St. Paul and even Miseryapolis there are frequent entries for people that would like to get their evil car in the garage and are trying to dump a bike taking up space. Typical prices is $35-50 since it isn't exactly prime season. Then you might scare up something with fenders, fatter tires, and better brakes you won't mind getting rusty and eventually destroyed.

Your choice...

In the resale shops around here, used mountain bikes that work are usually about $30. Sometimes you find a great one, especially this time of year. My stepson bought a nice Trek hardtail for $6 at a yard sale.