2manybikes
Do you have a bike just for the snow?
Do you modify your bike for the snow in the winter?
Got a photo?
Do you modify your bike for the snow in the winter?
Got a photo?
Do you own a snow bike?
The BikeForums Team
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GreyGoat
You read my alleged mind! I was just thinkin we needed a thread for winter rides.. I'll update here when I can get some pictures of mine when it's done. I'm waiting on a new set of wheels(via UPS tomorrow I hope). Moving up to 8speed from 6 on an '85' Ross after breaking a spoke and finding my nipples too corroded to repair(not as painful as it sounds)..I'm stripping it down, will flush some oil thru the tubes, and rebuild.. I got time to wrench since I still can't ride because of broken fibula, hard cast came off today, and I'm wrenchin getting ready for some cycling PT!...
mechBgon
I have one bike in functioning condition right now, so it's an "everything bike," snow included :) Later this week I'll add a pic or two, after my new tires and fenders are on it.
kaleid
Winter Bike (Family bike during the summer)
http://www.jeeptraveler.com/Gallery/albums/userpics/10001/TurkeyRide1s.jpg
Summer/Play bike
http://www.jeeptraveler.com/Gallery/albums/userpics/10001/SummerBike2.jpg
http://www.jeeptraveler.com/Gallery/albums/userpics/10001/TurkeyRide1s.jpg
Summer/Play bike
http://www.jeeptraveler.com/Gallery/albums/userpics/10001/SummerBike2.jpg
TrekDen
http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos1336/4/57/82/14/66/0/66148257409_0_ALB.jpg
I don't know if my hardtail counts as a snow bike, but here's a pic anyways. It is a comfortable ride, and I'm sure with some fenders, and some other add ons it would make a good winter ride.
2manybikes, your bike is too darn pretty to take out in the elements. That thing is cleaner than the load of laundry I just finished, and folded.
I don't know if my hardtail counts as a snow bike, but here's a pic anyways. It is a comfortable ride, and I'm sure with some fenders, and some other add ons it would make a good winter ride.
2manybikes, your bike is too darn pretty to take out in the elements. That thing is cleaner than the load of laundry I just finished, and folded.
2manybikes
http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos1336/4/57/82/14/66/0/66148257409_0_ALB.jpg
I don't know if my hardtail counts as a snow bike, but here's a pic anyways. It is a comfortable ride, and I'm sure with some fenders, and some other add ons it would make a good winter ride.
2manybikes, your bike is too darn pretty to take out in the elements. That thing is cleaner than the load of laundry I just finished, and folded.
Thanks.
The fenders keep most of the goop off the bike. It's amazing how much the fenders even work in mud. It's 11 years old this year. I never put it away damp or dirty. I have a compressor to blow off water, it makes the job much, much, easier. I also can heat my garage so I can make a huge mess on the floor and still get the bike clean and dry. That makes it easier too.
I don't know if my hardtail counts as a snow bike, but here's a pic anyways. It is a comfortable ride, and I'm sure with some fenders, and some other add ons it would make a good winter ride.
2manybikes, your bike is too darn pretty to take out in the elements. That thing is cleaner than the load of laundry I just finished, and folded.
Thanks.
The fenders keep most of the goop off the bike. It's amazing how much the fenders even work in mud. It's 11 years old this year. I never put it away damp or dirty. I have a compressor to blow off water, it makes the job much, much, easier. I also can heat my garage so I can make a huge mess on the floor and still get the bike clean and dry. That makes it easier too.
Albany-12303
I use my Giant hardtail (aluminum 1999) as a winter bike. So far, I dont have a problem with rust. I rinse it well with water every few weeks and dry it with an old towel before putting it back in my (non-heated) garage. Also, I use lots of oil (green stuff that I bought in LBS) on the chain and derailleurs.
Sometimes I ride my old Steel Nishiki during the winter, but not too much (I am afraid that the frame could rust)
Sometimes I ride my old Steel Nishiki during the winter, but not too much (I am afraid that the frame could rust)
Silverexpress
Thanks.
The fenders keep most of the goop off the bike. It's amazing how much the fenders even work in mud. It's 11 years old this year. I never put it away damp or dirty. I have a compressor to blow off water, it makes the job much, much, easier. I also can heat my garage so I can make a huge mess on the floor and still get the bike clean and dry. That makes it easier too.
2manybikes, do you ride on "salted" roads? If so, what kind of wear have you had on your 11 yr old winter commuter? Likewise, what parts have you had to replace often due to winter riding?
The fenders keep most of the goop off the bike. It's amazing how much the fenders even work in mud. It's 11 years old this year. I never put it away damp or dirty. I have a compressor to blow off water, it makes the job much, much, easier. I also can heat my garage so I can make a huge mess on the floor and still get the bike clean and dry. That makes it easier too.
2manybikes, do you ride on "salted" roads? If so, what kind of wear have you had on your 11 yr old winter commuter? Likewise, what parts have you had to replace often due to winter riding?
2manybikes
2manybikes, do you ride on "salted" roads? If so, what kind of wear have you had on your 11 yr old winter commuter? Likewise, what parts have you had to replace often due to winter riding?
Rarely salted roads, only a few times a year. Not enough to really effect the bike much.
That bike has always had the studded tires on it for the last five years or so. I don't ride that in the winter unless there is ice or at least some snow to help protect the studs from the dry pavement. They do salt the roads, but not that often. There is not really good studded tire weather that often here either. If the road is clear, which is most of the time, even if there is salt and water I ride another bike. However, the low front fender and mud flap keeps almost all the crud off the drive train. All my bikes that go in the wet weather have mud flaps down to almost the ground, it makes a huge difference. I do ride off road in the snow as much as possible, but the snow is clean and without salt. It does not rust or wear the components much.
That bike has only about 8,000 miles on it and I have only replaced one chain, one freewheel, one rear derailleur, and cables, just from normal wear.
These two bikes get most of the salt and winter mileage..
The geared bike has NOT had these parts replaced
seat post
brake calipers
front rim ,spokes, and hub (not cones and bearings)
frame
fork
rear fender
Rarely salted roads, only a few times a year. Not enough to really effect the bike much.
That bike has always had the studded tires on it for the last five years or so. I don't ride that in the winter unless there is ice or at least some snow to help protect the studs from the dry pavement. They do salt the roads, but not that often. There is not really good studded tire weather that often here either. If the road is clear, which is most of the time, even if there is salt and water I ride another bike. However, the low front fender and mud flap keeps almost all the crud off the drive train. All my bikes that go in the wet weather have mud flaps down to almost the ground, it makes a huge difference. I do ride off road in the snow as much as possible, but the snow is clean and without salt. It does not rust or wear the components much.
That bike has only about 8,000 miles on it and I have only replaced one chain, one freewheel, one rear derailleur, and cables, just from normal wear.
These two bikes get most of the salt and winter mileage..
The geared bike has NOT had these parts replaced
seat post
brake calipers
front rim ,spokes, and hub (not cones and bearings)
frame
fork
rear fender
royalflash
Here is mine:
It has Sun double-wide rims with Nokian Extreme 296 tyres (2.1 wide).
http://img456.imageshack.us/img456/7479/winterbike0fj.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img456.imageshack.us/img456/1551/winterbike22rq.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
I can ride over almost anything on this
It has Sun double-wide rims with Nokian Extreme 296 tyres (2.1 wide).
http://img456.imageshack.us/img456/7479/winterbike0fj.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img456.imageshack.us/img456/1551/winterbike22rq.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
I can ride over almost anything on this
TrekDen
Thanks.
The fenders keep most of the goop off the bike. It's amazing how much the fenders even work in mud. It's 11 years old this year. I never put it away damp or dirty. I have a compressor to blow off water, it makes the job much, much, easier. I also can heat my garage so I can make a huge mess on the floor and still get the bike clean and dry. That makes it easier too.
My bikes go right thru that door you see behind mine in the photo. That leads right into my warm, and dry basement, where I have a small compressor, water, and plenty of drainage. Hose it down, blow it off, and very little towel drying left to finish. I learned the compressor trick when I started washing motorcycles for my neighbor when I was younger. It really does make the drying process a whole lot easier. On a motorcycle, a leaf blower will do it in no time flat.
The fenders keep most of the goop off the bike. It's amazing how much the fenders even work in mud. It's 11 years old this year. I never put it away damp or dirty. I have a compressor to blow off water, it makes the job much, much, easier. I also can heat my garage so I can make a huge mess on the floor and still get the bike clean and dry. That makes it easier too.
My bikes go right thru that door you see behind mine in the photo. That leads right into my warm, and dry basement, where I have a small compressor, water, and plenty of drainage. Hose it down, blow it off, and very little towel drying left to finish. I learned the compressor trick when I started washing motorcycles for my neighbor when I was younger. It really does make the drying process a whole lot easier. On a motorcycle, a leaf blower will do it in no time flat.
2manybikes
Here is mine:
It has Sun double-wide rims with Nokian Extreme 296 tyres (2.1 wide).
I can ride over almost anything on this
Can you tell me some of the pros and cons of the wide rims. How low can you run the tires? Does it increase the footprint of the tire much? Thanks. I think about those every single winter and never get around to doing anything about it.
It has Sun double-wide rims with Nokian Extreme 296 tyres (2.1 wide).
I can ride over almost anything on this
Can you tell me some of the pros and cons of the wide rims. How low can you run the tires? Does it increase the footprint of the tire much? Thanks. I think about those every single winter and never get around to doing anything about it.
mechBgon
Bonus points for incorporating a DynoHub into that beastie, royalflash :)
rilles
Borrowed the wife's bike and converted it into a winter beater (innova studded front, aggresive mud rear).
http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/2668/nov20050133sw.jpg
http://img330.imageshack.us/img330/2668/nov20050133sw.jpg
royalflash
Can you tell me some of the pros and cons of the wide rims. How low can you run the tires? Does it increase the footprint of the tire much? Thanks. I think about those every single winter and never get around to doing anything about it.
the only cons for the wide rims are the cost of having to buy them and the extra weight.
the pros are that the footprint of the tyre is slightly increased (but not by as much as you would expect) and that the tyres can be run at very low pressure. This is great when the snow hits. I have been running the tyres at about 35 psi on ice and then down to about 17.5 psi for snow. It may be possible to go lower but from reading the icebike site I might start to need adhesive to glue one side of the tyre to the rim and I havenīt got any. Under about 20 psi the rear tyre starts to squirm quite a bit on corners (I weight slightly over 200 lbs) but this doesnt matter so much as if you are riding in snow when the cornering is not so precise anyway.
At low pressure they are amazing for snow- I have ridden them commuting and also off road through deep snow and ice and they are really good. Some really deep soft sections were still hard going but you really feel that you can ride over almost anything with these wheels.
When the snow goes however it is better to increase the pressure back up a bit as the drag of running them at low pressure on a clear road is definitely noticeable.
They have really made a difference to my commute - now I dont really care if the bike paths have been cleared and can use the bike lanes without being forced to get in the road with the reckless car drivers bashing into each other.
I enjoy riding over the snow and ice now whereas before I was just sort of hanging on and hoping for the best.
the only cons for the wide rims are the cost of having to buy them and the extra weight.
the pros are that the footprint of the tyre is slightly increased (but not by as much as you would expect) and that the tyres can be run at very low pressure. This is great when the snow hits. I have been running the tyres at about 35 psi on ice and then down to about 17.5 psi for snow. It may be possible to go lower but from reading the icebike site I might start to need adhesive to glue one side of the tyre to the rim and I havenīt got any. Under about 20 psi the rear tyre starts to squirm quite a bit on corners (I weight slightly over 200 lbs) but this doesnt matter so much as if you are riding in snow when the cornering is not so precise anyway.
At low pressure they are amazing for snow- I have ridden them commuting and also off road through deep snow and ice and they are really good. Some really deep soft sections were still hard going but you really feel that you can ride over almost anything with these wheels.
When the snow goes however it is better to increase the pressure back up a bit as the drag of running them at low pressure on a clear road is definitely noticeable.
They have really made a difference to my commute - now I dont really care if the bike paths have been cleared and can use the bike lanes without being forced to get in the road with the reckless car drivers bashing into each other.
I enjoy riding over the snow and ice now whereas before I was just sort of hanging on and hoping for the best.
royalflash
Bonus points for incorporating a DynoHub into that beastie, royalflash :)
you have good eyesight- how did you spot the SON ? - I should have made the picture bigger
you have good eyesight- how did you spot the SON ? - I should have made the picture bigger
mechBgon
you have good eyesight- how did you spot the SON ? - I should have made the picture biggerI first noticed the headlight and then made the logical deduction about the hub, which the pics seemed to support insofar as I could see. :) Or maybe I'm just spying on you through your optical mouse. :D
How does that light do for you, is it pretty good?
How does that light do for you, is it pretty good?
Machka
My snowbike was also my commuter.
royalflash
I first noticed the headlight and then made the logical deduction about the hub, which the pics seemed to support insofar as I could see. :) Or maybe I'm just spying on you through your optical mouse. :D
How does that light do for you, is it pretty good?
yes its good- not a HID of course but very reliable-always having a minimum level of light when the batteries decide to give up at inconvenient moments is handy
How does that light do for you, is it pretty good?
yes its good- not a HID of course but very reliable-always having a minimum level of light when the batteries decide to give up at inconvenient moments is handy
plodderslusk
I have posted this one elsewhere under winter cycling but I am a champion for converting old MTB frames to studded winter SS bikes. This is a mid-eighties Scott Teton. My longest ride on snow last winter was a 65 mile trip, a lot of it on late winter frozen ski tracks. The slack angles/long wheelbase of these ancient frames makes for a secure ride in slippery conditions. Paralell dropouts means no hassle with tensioning the chain.
Zin
Here is my old Raleigh Mustang ATB set up specifically for snow running Planet Bike fenders & Nashbar studded snow tires.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b44/zinrider/Cycling/11-27-2005/IMGP0065.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b44/zinrider/Cycling/11-27-2005/IMGP0065.jpg
mechBgon
yes its good- not a HID of course but very reliable-always having a minimum level of light when the batteries decide to give up at inconvenient moments is handyThanks :) I'm getting my touring bike back into useable condition and may pick up that headlight, although I'll have to go budget on the generator and use my Union behind-the-BB one.
Boiler
My ride, homemade studs and light. I was doing wheelies and endos the other night on glare ice. Rides like a tank, sounds like one too on dry pavement. :D
GreyGoat
winter woody!.. new wheels came in today, weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.... rebuild in progress..
chipcom
Here is my old Raleigh Mustang ATB set up specifically for snow running Planet Bike fenders & Nashbar studded snow tires.
Any problems with snow and slush build up with the fenders?
Any problems with snow and slush build up with the fenders?
GreyGoat
I like to keep the back of each fender closer to the wheel than the front... this then tends to srape off the excess snow and the rest of the rotation thru the fender is farther away from the wheel so there is no probem... now if you run with a flap hanging from the back that may tend to help gather and pack it in... not sure I havent run with a flap for fear of that.. tho I'm sure it would help with splash....
Silverexpress
My Smok'in Winter Mule.
2manybikes
My Smok'in Winter Mule.
I like the MULE !
I like the MULE !
dobber
I so want to roll on something like this:
http://i4.ebayimg.com/02/i/05/4a/17/59_3.JPG
http://i4.ebayimg.com/02/i/05/4a/17/59_3.JPG
Gojohnnygo.
My snow bike. Yes I need a new digi cam.
Tires Nokian 294s with stock rims.
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/8236/pict00023uf.th.jpg (http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict00023uf.jpg)
Lights Cygolite Night-Rover Nimh Xtra times 3 = 48 watts.
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/1927/pict00033cy.th.jpg (http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict00033cy.jpg)
Batterys I think I have enough power.
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/5435/pict00042qj.th.jpg (http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict00042qj.jpg)
The Bike a new low end Trek 3900 left over from 2004 $259.00. Those are plant bike fenders and they don't rub only on hard bumps.
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/192/pict00050wa.th.jpg (http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict00050wa.jpg)
Tires Nokian 294s with stock rims.
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/8236/pict00023uf.th.jpg (http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict00023uf.jpg)
Lights Cygolite Night-Rover Nimh Xtra times 3 = 48 watts.
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/1927/pict00033cy.th.jpg (http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict00033cy.jpg)
Batterys I think I have enough power.
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/5435/pict00042qj.th.jpg (http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict00042qj.jpg)
The Bike a new low end Trek 3900 left over from 2004 $259.00. Those are plant bike fenders and they don't rub only on hard bumps.
http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/192/pict00050wa.th.jpg (http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict00050wa.jpg)
2manybikes
I so want to roll on something like this:
I need that bike, NOW~!
I need that bike, NOW~!
BikeInMN
I so want to roll on something like this:
Then you'll dig my snow bike!
Just got back from a 4 hour epic on it. 4 hours may not be epic in a traditional sense but kicking this beast around for 4:07 in snow is serious work when your riding buddies are on studded CX bikes.
Then you'll dig my snow bike!
Just got back from a 4 hour epic on it. 4 hours may not be epic in a traditional sense but kicking this beast around for 4:07 in snow is serious work when your riding buddies are on studded CX bikes.
Zin
Any problems with snow and slush build up with the fenders?
Not yet. I have more trouble with build up on the cassette & brakes.
Not yet. I have more trouble with build up on the cassette & brakes.
dobber
Then you'll dig my snow bike!
Just got back from a 4 hour epic on it. 4 hours may not be epic in a traditional sense but kicking this beast around for 4:07 in snow is serious work when your riding buddies are on studded CX bikes.
Nice
Just got back from a 4 hour epic on it. 4 hours may not be epic in a traditional sense but kicking this beast around for 4:07 in snow is serious work when your riding buddies are on studded CX bikes.
Nice
tandemonium
Same bike, but I cover the pivots with pieces of old innertubes to keep the trash out. Fenders on the down tube really help.
chipcom
Me and the guys at my LBS have been brainstorming my new all-weather commuter, but I still don't know which way I am going to go. I had a Trek 7200FX that was my winter beater and now I wish I hadn't let it go. Turns out my 'ultimate' all-weather commuter isn't that easy to put together. Desired specs:
1. Disk brakes
2. 8-speed internal-geared rear hub
3. 700x35 or 26x1.9 tire minimum with full fenders
4. Rear rack
5. Shimano dynamo front hub
6. Under $1k
I'm toying with 4 options:
1. Build from scratch on either a Karate-Monkey or a Pugsly frame. The K-M is probably my best bet, though I'm not sure how I am going to manage the disk brakes AND rear fender and rack - I'm hoping the Tubus Logo and adapter kit might work. Trouble is, building from scratch will probably cost more than my 'good' bike cost me!
2. Get a Raleigh Rt. 24 and change out the crank, DRs and cassette for better gearing, as well as add racks, fenders, etc. No internal geared hub, would have to add the front dynamo hub. Not sure if I can get over a 700x32 tire on it with fenders.
3. Breezer Uptown 8 - nice bike, but no disk brakes
4. Trek 7.3FX Disc - no internal geared hub, dynamo hub would need to be added, my LBS doesn't do Trek. (I like to keep my business with them)
5. jury-rig an old MTB with disk brakes and don't worry about it.
My biggest problems in the snow on my old Trek were the brakes and derailleurs, which is why I thought disk brakes might be an improvement as well as an internal geared hub. Any thoughts on my logic?
1. Disk brakes
2. 8-speed internal-geared rear hub
3. 700x35 or 26x1.9 tire minimum with full fenders
4. Rear rack
5. Shimano dynamo front hub
6. Under $1k
I'm toying with 4 options:
1. Build from scratch on either a Karate-Monkey or a Pugsly frame. The K-M is probably my best bet, though I'm not sure how I am going to manage the disk brakes AND rear fender and rack - I'm hoping the Tubus Logo and adapter kit might work. Trouble is, building from scratch will probably cost more than my 'good' bike cost me!
2. Get a Raleigh Rt. 24 and change out the crank, DRs and cassette for better gearing, as well as add racks, fenders, etc. No internal geared hub, would have to add the front dynamo hub. Not sure if I can get over a 700x32 tire on it with fenders.
3. Breezer Uptown 8 - nice bike, but no disk brakes
4. Trek 7.3FX Disc - no internal geared hub, dynamo hub would need to be added, my LBS doesn't do Trek. (I like to keep my business with them)
5. jury-rig an old MTB with disk brakes and don't worry about it.
My biggest problems in the snow on my old Trek were the brakes and derailleurs, which is why I thought disk brakes might be an improvement as well as an internal geared hub. Any thoughts on my logic?
royalflash
Then you'll dig my snow bike!
Just got back from a 4 hour epic on it. 4 hours may not be epic in a traditional sense but kicking this beast around for 4:07 in snow is serious work when your riding buddies are on studded CX bikes.
nice bike- how does it cope with the snow and ice- do the big wheels help much?
Just got back from a 4 hour epic on it. 4 hours may not be epic in a traditional sense but kicking this beast around for 4:07 in snow is serious work when your riding buddies are on studded CX bikes.
nice bike- how does it cope with the snow and ice- do the big wheels help much?
BikeInMN
nice bike- how does it cope with the snow and ice- do the big wheels help much?
The advantage/difference is huge. I've spent a lot of time on Nokian Extremes which are 2.1s and the 3.7 Endomorphs are better in pretty much every situation other than glare ice. Ruts that will swallow a 2 inch wide mtb tire are not even noticeable with the larger tires. If you run the PSIs low (which you can easily) they stick really well, even on climbs. I've experimented with tire pressure as low as 8 psi with great results. Some of the trails I ride have some shorter but steep climbs and I've been the only one with enough traction to clean them. The tires have a paddle type tread that doesn't pack up with snow on the trails which helps.
The disadvantages of the bike are mainly weight related. Everything about the wheels are heavy (tubes, tires, rims). Think 6.16 pounds from the rim out on each wheel. Not a big deal most of the time but if you're on fast trails and you're riding with guys on faster bikes you'll need to dig deep into the pain cave to keep up when things wick up. On the other end of the winter riding spectrum when the going gets nasty, advantage Pugsley.
The advantage/difference is huge. I've spent a lot of time on Nokian Extremes which are 2.1s and the 3.7 Endomorphs are better in pretty much every situation other than glare ice. Ruts that will swallow a 2 inch wide mtb tire are not even noticeable with the larger tires. If you run the PSIs low (which you can easily) they stick really well, even on climbs. I've experimented with tire pressure as low as 8 psi with great results. Some of the trails I ride have some shorter but steep climbs and I've been the only one with enough traction to clean them. The tires have a paddle type tread that doesn't pack up with snow on the trails which helps.
The disadvantages of the bike are mainly weight related. Everything about the wheels are heavy (tubes, tires, rims). Think 6.16 pounds from the rim out on each wheel. Not a big deal most of the time but if you're on fast trails and you're riding with guys on faster bikes you'll need to dig deep into the pain cave to keep up when things wick up. On the other end of the winter riding spectrum when the going gets nasty, advantage Pugsley.
trailwarrior
This is my winter ride and I don't need to worry about falling on the ice.
I also use eggbeaters with Lake MXZ 301 MTB boots for sure footing.
http://www.kmxkarts.co.uk/glen_santa_3.JPG
I also use eggbeaters with Lake MXZ 301 MTB boots for sure footing.
http://www.kmxkarts.co.uk/glen_santa_3.JPG
dobber
This is my winter ride and I don't need to worry about falling on the ice.
I also use eggbeaters with Lake MXZ 301 MTB boots for sure footing.
I'd think with more than a couple inches of snow, your ass would be dragging. But it's certainly cool lookng. Take something like that, mod it with big old 3.7 Endomorphic tires (from the Pugsley) and then I think we've got something.
I also use eggbeaters with Lake MXZ 301 MTB boots for sure footing.
I'd think with more than a couple inches of snow, your ass would be dragging. But it's certainly cool lookng. Take something like that, mod it with big old 3.7 Endomorphic tires (from the Pugsley) and then I think we've got something.
CBBaron
Me and the guys at my LBS have been brainstorming my new all-weather commuter, but I still don't know which way I am going to go. I had a Trek 7200FX that was my winter beater and now I wish I hadn't let it go. Turns out my 'ultimate' all-weather commuter isn't that easy to put together. Desired specs:
1. Disk brakes
2. 8-speed internal-geared rear hub
3. 700x35 or 26x1.9 tire minimum with full fenders
4. Rear rack
5. Shimano dynamo front hub
6. Under $1k
Look at the Burley Runabout 7.
http://burley.com/products/commuter-bikes/default96d1.html?p=Runabout-7&i=1
Disc Brakes, 7 speed internal-geared hub, 26" tires, rack included and fenders mounts. All you will need is to add the fenders and dynamo.
Craig
1. Disk brakes
2. 8-speed internal-geared rear hub
3. 700x35 or 26x1.9 tire minimum with full fenders
4. Rear rack
5. Shimano dynamo front hub
6. Under $1k
Look at the Burley Runabout 7.
http://burley.com/products/commuter-bikes/default96d1.html?p=Runabout-7&i=1
Disc Brakes, 7 speed internal-geared hub, 26" tires, rack included and fenders mounts. All you will need is to add the fenders and dynamo.
Craig
chipcom
Look at the Burley Runabout 7.
http://burley.com/products/commuter-bikes/default96d1.html?p=Runabout-7&i=1
Disc Brakes, 7 speed internal-geared hub, 26" tires, rack included and fenders mounts. All you will need is to add the fenders and dynamo.
Craig
Dude, I love you man! :love:
http://burley.com/products/commuter-bikes/default96d1.html?p=Runabout-7&i=1
Disc Brakes, 7 speed internal-geared hub, 26" tires, rack included and fenders mounts. All you will need is to add the fenders and dynamo.
Craig
Dude, I love you man! :love:
2manybikes
I'd think with more than a couple inches of snow, your ass would be dragging. But it's certainly cool lookng. Take something like that, mod it with big old 3.7 Endomorphic tires (from the Pugsley) and then I think we've got something.
Pushing three tires making a new path in deep snow is much harder than just one tire making a new path and the other tire following in the path already made. Plus when the traction is split three instead of two ways there are times with almost no traction. There are plenty of times when the back tire does not have much weight on it.
It won't go in deep snow anything like a two wheel bike. With studded tires you don't fall on the ice anyway. It's the snow that is slippery not the ice. A two wheeler is much better in snow, and on the ice.
Pushing three tires making a new path in deep snow is much harder than just one tire making a new path and the other tire following in the path already made. Plus when the traction is split three instead of two ways there are times with almost no traction. There are plenty of times when the back tire does not have much weight on it.
It won't go in deep snow anything like a two wheel bike. With studded tires you don't fall on the ice anyway. It's the snow that is slippery not the ice. A two wheeler is much better in snow, and on the ice.
BikeInMN
This is my winter ride and I don't need to worry about falling on the ice.
I also use eggbeaters with Lake MXZ 301 MTB boots for sure footing.
Hey Trailwarrior - Where do you ride that thing around here? I'm in the cities also...
I also use eggbeaters with Lake MXZ 301 MTB boots for sure footing.
Hey Trailwarrior - Where do you ride that thing around here? I'm in the cities also...
mechBgon
My modest "snow bike" with its brand-new fenders just freshly installed, and in a seldom-seen state of cleanliness:
http://www.mechbgon.com/misc/snow_bike.jpg
It's nothing too special, just an older rigid steel bike with a front low-rider rack (panniers not pictured here), NiteRider HID headlight, Nokian 294s, standard cantilever brakes.
http://www.mechbgon.com/misc/snow_bike.jpg
It's nothing too special, just an older rigid steel bike with a front low-rider rack (panniers not pictured here), NiteRider HID headlight, Nokian 294s, standard cantilever brakes.
Silverexpress
My modest "snow bike" with its brand-new fenders just freshly installed, and in a seldom-seen state of cleanliness:
It's nothing too special, just an older rigid steel bike with a front low-rider rack (panniers not pictured here), NiteRider HID headlight, Nokian 294s, standard cantilever brakes.
Looks to darn good to be a winter bike.
It's nothing too special, just an older rigid steel bike with a front low-rider rack (panniers not pictured here), NiteRider HID headlight, Nokian 294s, standard cantilever brakes.
Looks to darn good to be a winter bike.
Gojohnnygo.
Showroom clean and Nokian 294s on linoleum floor very bad. Sweet taillight set up Cateye 1000,500, niterider and BikeForums on the screen.
2manybikes
My modest "snow bike" with its brand-new fenders just freshly installed, and in a seldom-seen state of cleanliness:
It's nothing too special, just an older rigid steel bike with a front low-rider rack (panniers not pictured here), NiteRider HID headlight, Nokian 294s, standard cantilever brakes.
Nice, nice, nice, gorgeous !!! Every one should have an MTB with studded tires and fenders, and lotsa lights this time of year. It's funny that the more one rides in the snow, the more the bikes get the same equipment on them. The higher the mileage the more similar the bikes. I like your application of reflective tape too.
Make as much clearance as possible on the fenders. When you are satisfied with the fender position cut the stays down and put the caps on (ouch). You're probably planning on that anyway. But I like to get my 2 cents in. :)
If you have not found out already, studded tires can scratch linoleum, tile, and hardwood floors very easily.
Eventually you may not care :D
It's nothing too special, just an older rigid steel bike with a front low-rider rack (panniers not pictured here), NiteRider HID headlight, Nokian 294s, standard cantilever brakes.
Nice, nice, nice, gorgeous !!! Every one should have an MTB with studded tires and fenders, and lotsa lights this time of year. It's funny that the more one rides in the snow, the more the bikes get the same equipment on them. The higher the mileage the more similar the bikes. I like your application of reflective tape too.
Make as much clearance as possible on the fenders. When you are satisfied with the fender position cut the stays down and put the caps on (ouch). You're probably planning on that anyway. But I like to get my 2 cents in. :)
If you have not found out already, studded tires can scratch linoleum, tile, and hardwood floors very easily.
Eventually you may not care :D
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Common bike forum topics in clue bicycles, cycling, mountain biking,
cycling jerseys, shorts, socks, shoes and bike equiptment selection.
Common bike forum topics in clue bicycles, cycling, mountain biking,
cycling jerseys, shorts, socks, shoes and bike equiptment selection.