BMX - good trade or not?

i have been offered a trade along these lines:

my primopro casette with 13t cog with chrome hulahoop rim (48h) and mongoose 39t chainwheel

FOR

oddysey hazard casette hub with 10t driver and Ti axle with black anodized hazard lite rim (36h) and 28t metal bikes chainwheel

what i guess you need to know is:

- all the parts on both sides of the potential trade are in real great condition
- i have 48h front and rear at the moment
- i am not a bike thrower
- i am not particularly hard on the bike
- i ride a bit of everything, but mostly hard street and the 12ft bowl on the beachfront

my questions are:

- will strength be sacrificed if i went for the trade?
- will it be odd running 48h up front and 36h rear?
- do you see any potential problems that i heven't mentioned?

thanks in advance.

J

36 hazard lite isnt as strong but try it and let us know if/when the 36H craps out.

36 hole wont be a problem. Especially if you arent hard on your bike. Keep it true and you'll be fine. And I personally prefer more spokes in the back if there is going to be a difference, but it's really just an aesthetic thing. I would go for it.

primo casset = better then oddysey casset

trade the chainwheels but NOT wheels...Primo Cassettes are the best. And in my opinion the strongest, and fairly light.

trade the chainwheels but NOT wheels...Primo Cassettes are the best. And in my opinion the strongest, and fairly light.

WHAT?!?!?! Fairly light? They are 26+ ounces. That's horrible.



primo casset = better then oddysey casset

Umm, no.

WHAT?!?!?! Fairly light? They are 26+ ounces. That's horrible.



Umm, no.
umm, yes.

Why dont you learn to bunny hop before you worry about 5 ounces more on a STRONGER wheel...

umm, yes.

Why dont you learn to bunny hop before you worry about 5 ounces more on a STRONGER wheel...

I love internet, for this exact reason. You can just throw something out there like that becasue your angry at my post. Like saying I should learn how to bunny hop.

Any who, you said they were "fairly light", fairly light would be like 20 ounces. Think about anything else on your bike, add 6 ounces to it and it changes a lot. Like, rims, yours are probably like 20 ounces or so, well add a little more than 6 ounces to them and you COULD have gotten some Alex triple wall supra Es. They would be stronger than your current rims. So you should get those.

i would rather have a stronger wheel then a lighter one. and yes im pretty much a weight weenie, but there has to be SOME comprimise and for me its a stron cassete with a good rep unlike odysseys which most of the time dont even come dialed out of the box!

but suit yourself...

trade the chainwheels but NOT wheels...Primo Cassettes are the best. And in my opinion the strongest, and fairly light.

1) If he trades the sprockets, then he'll have a 28-13 setup.
2) The Odyssey cassette is far superior to the Primo, and even if it does break, Odyssey will either warranty it or ship you out the parts to fix it with. Just a couple months Odyssey sent me out a pair of c-springs and six extra pawls, free of charge.

i disagree with you mr. beerman. and what about all those odyssey cassetes that came out of the box sooo overgreased the didnt even click? or the ones where the dirvers like explod and kill themselfs...i think the Primo wheels are stronger...

1) They don't come out of the box overgreased anymore, and to fix that problem all you had to do is clean out the grease and spray in some Tri-Flow.

2) I'm on my third Odyssey cassette now (the first two were RHD 3-pawls,one of which was stolen, and the current is a LHD 4-pawl), and I've never had either of them blow up. Although I've only had the current one for six or so months now, and the stolen one was only on my bike for three days before it got jacked, the other one had no problems at all for a year-and-a-half.

Theres no doubt it's a fine trade if everything is in good condition.

thanks guys.

i'll go and have a full-on close up and personal second inspection and make a judgement based on that and your replies.

just to point out, the arguments between Kinetic and bmicheal seem rather futile, just going off the generalizations and wildly varying contradiction. making logical, justified replies like Beerman and SXE are way more useful. the guys like expat, darin, and the two mentioned above gain alot more respect for sheer knowladge and willingness to assist.

peace.
J

1) They don't come out of the box overgreased anymore, and to fix that problem all you had to do is clean out the grease and spray in some Tri-Flow.

2) I'm on my third Odyssey cassette now (the first two were RHD 3-pawls,one of which was stolen, and the current is a LHD 4-pawl), and I've never had either of them blow up. Although I've only had the current one for six or so months now, and the stolen one was only on my bike for three days before it got jacked, the other one had no problems at all for a year-and-a-half.

ok, i think its just personal preference, i would rather have a Primo cassette when i get one and you would rather have your odyssesy cassette...
what size driver do you have, the ones that i have seen break are the 10t and 9t ones...

i disagree with you mr. beerman. and what about all those odyssey cassetes that came out of the box sooo overgreased the didnt even click? or the ones where the dirvers like explod and kill themselfs...i think the Primo wheels are stronger...


who cares if it clicks?i'd rather have it greased and silent than have it loud, and about to blow up. i broke two teeth on my driver, and i sent it back and got a new 4 pawl free.

Profile is definately much better

didnt they just come out with a new hub?

ok, i think its just personal preference, i would rather have a Primo cassette when i get one and you would rather have your odyssesy cassette...
what size driver do you have, the ones that i have seen break are the 10t and 9t ones...

I've had an 11t Odyssey 3-pawl, a 10t Odyssey 3-pawl (which I used in the 4-pawl hub w/o any problems), and now a 9t RNC 4-pawl.

i decided not to do the trade, just off gut feel. maybe get me 30-10 gearing a little later.

thanks guys.

i'll go and have a full-on close up and personal second inspection and make a judgement based on that and your replies.

just to point out, the arguments between Kinetic and bmicheal seem rather futile, just going off the generalizations and wildly varying contradiction. making logical, justified replies like Beerman and SXE are way more useful. the guys like expat, darin, and the two mentioned above gain alot more respect for sheer knowladge and willingness to assist.

peace.
J

Right-o! I get props for not weighing in at all. :D

Right-o! I get props for not weighing in at all. :D

:D its the help u given in the past and in other posts i was refering to.

I figured that, but I've been known to be a smart ass.

The primo set up is way more old school, why's he swapping?

A 48 will be 33% stronger than 36 made of the same parts, you decide whether it's worth the 3 oz weight loss and possiblu having to maintain your wheel a lot more.

Tom Haugen rides/rode a 36 back 48 front, but that kook also rides a Piston stem and snafu ****, you'd be in good company.

You'd also need to check your frame could run 28/10

48s aren't that much stronger than 36s. Considering most of the wrecked wheels I see are flat spotted or dented from hanging up, it doesn't make a difference how many spokes the wheel has. 48s became popular when people were doing Miami Hop-Hops and Lawnmowers. They aren't that necessary any more unless you really like landing 360's at 400.

33% stronger.

But if you arent really hard on your bike, the 33% isnt a big deal. I ride my bike too hard so I wouldnt run 36, but if your a smaller guy and arent abusing your bike it's fine. And he wasnt buying a new wheel to save weight, just trading wheels with a friend.