If you were going to run a single chainring, what would you use? I think I am going to run a 42, with a larger chainring (46) ground down to act as a chain guard. I will also have a plastic chain guard thing (whatever it is) on the seat tube. What do you think?

Thats exactly what I use. Works perfectly.

Check your clearance for the ring and chainstay.
The ring should be sandwiched between an inner and outer plate or a boomerang\guide tensioner used to stop chaindrop.

I XC and stuff using a 38T ring -11\30 cluster witha tensioner. Nice.
Not sure it would give you an edge racing, but it is a bike mod I've really taken to on my mtb.

my surly's set up 1x8 like that now, I don't have a jump stop on the inside though. just the 42t ring and a ground down outer ring serving as a chain guard. been running it like that since the beginning of this 'cross season, no dropped chain yet. I miss the big ring when I use it on the road though, so it'll be sporting a frt derailer again in short order.

my surly's set up 1x8 like that now, I don't have a jump stop on the inside though. just the 42t ring and a ground down outer ring serving as a chain guard. been running it like that since the beginning of this 'cross season, no dropped chain yet. I miss the big ring when I use it on the road though, so it'll be sporting a frt derailer again in short order.

Does your cluster have an 11T cog? Swapping 12-11 can be a fix...or not.

You could just run a single in the front and the back, that way there is no way for the chain to jump off or make noise.

I run a single 42 front with a 12/25 or 12/27 9 speed rear cassette depending. I only lost the chain once all season and it was due to taking a digger on a wicked run-up. An outer guard with a 3'rd eye chain keeper should be all you need.

I run a single 42 front with a 12/25 or 12/27 9 speed rear cassette depending. I only lost the chain once all season and it was due to taking a digger on a wicked run-up. An outer guard with a 3'rd eye chain keeper should be all you need.

That's the way to do it: 42 front, 12/27 rear, with the required 3rd eye chain keeper (don't forget this part) and bob's your uncle.

Why not keep the 46T as is, and manually shift the front chainrings. For instance, if the course is relatively flat, and you're looking for more speed, you can manually put the chain on the 46T. All other times, you can leave in on the 42T.

That's the way to do it: 42 front, 12/27 rear, with the required 3rd eye chain keeper (don't forget this part) and bob's your uncle.

'cept you still have to get off your bike and put your chain back on.
I use a dual roller guide\ only lower pulley.

No I don't CX, just XC.
Disclaimer!

I've heard of people using a front deraileur mounted on without any cables, and cut shorter to act as a chain guard.

cross crusade forum topic on single ring setup (http://www.crosscrusade.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=523&PN=1)

I've heard of people using a front deraileur mounted on without any cables, and cut shorter to act as a chain guard.

cross crusade forum topic on single ring setup (http://www.crosscrusade.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=523&PN=1)


I did this for years and it works great. Just drop the deraillure down real low. I also flared it out a bit to allow for the 1'st and 8th speed chain line.



Why not keep the 46T as is, and manually shift the front chainrings. For instance, if the course is relatively flat, and you're looking for more speed, you can manually put the chain on the 46T. All other times, you can leave in on the 42T.


This is really not a bad idea.

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The third eyes or dog fangs will fail on you I garuntee it. The chain squeezes between the plastic and the chain ring and drops to the BB and then you need a tool to loosen the dog fang to retrieve your chain. It sucks. It happened to me once and it was enough for me to never use one again.